Are you interested in doing a 24v swap? Read this!

[Aptyp]

don't know if this was ever added:

Wiki says that 944 booster has a 10mm shaft, but it's actually 12mm and has to be modified just like e21 ones.

[MaxBell]

Question about the wiring.

I'm looking at the schematic and I see a "C101". Like this:



Then when I'm looking at the M50 diagram I see an "X20" under the same topic. (charging)



So, does this mean that those two wires have to be spliced together?

I take it we're trying to retain the plug and not hack up the body harness? Like this:

[Adrian_Visser]

What's your question?

[JGood]

Yep, that's correct. That's for the battery light on the dash.

And for the connector, some people take it one step further and get an e36/e34 body side plug, and splice the m20 engine side plug into that. That way you don't have to hack up your engine or body harness.

[MaxBell]

Ok, so there's only going to be like 10 or so wires that have functions on both the E30 and the M50.

Also: I'm trying to figure out what booster to use. I have an iX one handy so I'm going to use that, but what modifications have to be done to it for it to work?

OR!? Should I just relocate my stock one over a 1/2". That's what some guys are doing on E30Tech for success.

Also: What has to happen to the radiator hoses to make that work?

Also: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=221155

[JGood]

Ok, so there's only going to be like 10 or so wires that have functions on both the E30 and the M50.

Also: I'm trying to figure out what booster to use. I have an iX one handy so I'm going to use that, but what modifications have to be done to it for it to work?

OR!? Should I just relocate my stock one over a 1/2". That's what some guys are doing on E30Tech for success.

Also: What has to happen to the radiator hoses to make that work?

Also: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=221155

Those are pretty generic questions that have been answered before, and you'd probably have better luck getting them answered by starting a new thread instead of adding on to this already way-too-long thread.

Or just go to Advanced Search, type in "booster", select the "24v DOHC Swaps" forum to search within, and hit Search.

You'll get 500 threads, many of which discuss various experiences with different boosters and methods of modifying them to fit. Read and learn.

You can do the same for radiator hoses (although I don't see how your choice of booster will effect your radiator hoses).

[MaxBell]

Great, thanks dude. I'll start sifting through the replies.

[sbarton]

E30 318is swap

Thinking about doing a M50B25 swap in my 1991 E30 318is race car.
Most of the writeups assume you are starting with an E30 325is.
1) Is there anything different that is needed with the 318is?

I'll probably try to pick up a 1991-1992 E34 525i drivetrain to use to make it easier. I also want to try to re-use as much of the stock E30 318is stuff as I can.

http://www.e30dohc.com/wiki/index.php?title=DOHC_Swap_Basics

Looking at this page, it says you can you use the E30 G240 trans which I already have 2 of, but every other site I have read doesn't mention being able to use the G240.
2) Can you use the E30 240 trans? This seems like it would allow me to use my stock E30 318is driveshaft, tranny mount, and diff, no?

That page also says you can use the stock brake booster, but just modify the firewall to relocate it. Since my car is a race car, I don't care about modifying the firewall.
3) Can I use the 318is booster and MC? Is the E30 318is brake booster and MC different than the e30 325is booster and MC?

4) I have a thin SPAL fan and don't use the mechanical fan, do I still need to use the '88 325is radiator or can I use the 318is rad?

Since I have a race car, I don't need all of the wiring (reverse lights, headlights off when starting, etc), power steering pump, AC, heater, as well as emissions and other stuff.
5) Anything you think I can remove/delete or omit to make it easier to do the swap? How would I go about omiting that stuff?

-Scott

[kingston]

Thinking about doing a M50B25 swap in my 1991 E30 318is race car.
Most of the writeups assume you are starting with an E30 325is .
1) Is there anything different that is needed with the 318is?
Wiring will be slightly different, so examine the ETMs carefully. M42s are a LOT easier to pull than M20s ;)

I'll probably try to pick up a 1991-1992 E34 525i drivetrain to use to make it easier. I also want to try to re-use as much of the stock E30 318is stuff as I can.

http://www.e30dohc.com/wiki/index.php?title=DOHC_Swap_Basics

Looking at this page, it says you can you use the E30 G240 trans which I already have 2 of, but every other site I have read doesn't mention being able to use the G240.
2) Can you use the E30 240 trans? This seems like it would allow me to use my stock E30 318is driveshaft, tranny mount, and diff, no?
Yes, you can use the G240. You'll need a driveshaft from an E36. The M42 sits farther forward in the engine bay than the M/S5x so the driveshaft is too long.

That page also says you can use the stock brake booster, but just modify the firewall to relocate it. Since my car is a race car, I don't care about modifying the firewall.
3) Can I use the 318is booster and MC? Is the E30 318is brake booster and MC different than the e30 325is booster and MC?
Brake Boosters are the same; Master Cylinders are different.

4) I have a thin SPAL fan and don't use the mechanical fan, do I still need to use the '88 325is radiator or can I use the 318is rad?
Not sure. If your SPAL fan is reversible, you could lose the condensor and mount the SPAL fan to the front of the radiator.

Since I have a race car, I don't need all of the wiring (reverse lights, headlights off when starting, etc), power steering pump, AC, heater, as well as emissions and other stuff.
5) Anything you think I can remove/delete or omit to make it easier to do the swap? How would I go about omitting that stuff?
I think you've got the basics. Keeping the ABS? You could always delete that!
-Scott

[/\/\ III]

S52 Wiring Label

...

__________________________________________________


How to read the wire diagrams:


Go here:

http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

Find the manual for your car or engine, whatever side you are doing pinouts for.

Open the manual, and skip to the section that starts talking about power distribution and various under hood parts.

This is what it will look like:





You want to look for any instance of either c101 or x20, such as what is circled. C101 is the e30 engine connector, x20 is the e36/e34 connector. So if you are looking at an e30 manual, just look for c101. When you look at the e36/e34 manual, look for x20.

The c101 connector is the big round connector on your firewall. It has 20 or so pins on it (it’s a square connector with less pins if you have an 84-85 model). Each pin will be drawn out in this manual. Here, in the example, we are looking at pin 10 (see the 10 next to where it says c101).

The curved lines show which way the signal is coming through the connector. In this example, you see it’s coming FROM the oil level sensor, TO the engine oil fault indicator (the oil level light in your car).

The VI/GN and BU/WT are the colors of the wires. The wire between the sensor and the connector is blue with a white stripe, the wire between the connector and the warning light is Violet with a green stripe.

The .5 next to the color is the wire size. Apparently this is in millimeters squared. .5 will be a little wire, .75 medium, 1 is big. (I think).

You now know what color the wire is on the engine side, what color t is on the body side, what pin it is in the connector, and what its function is.

The schematics are generally laid out as power (+12 volts) from the top of the pages, to ground at the bottom of the pages. Further details of what various symbols mean can be found in the beginning pages of the manuals.

================================================== =====
I have a bunch of wires how do I take one wire from the harness and say, yes, this is for the so and so (alternator)...Right now I am trying to label my S52 wiring harness to my e30 m3, any help is appreciated.

If I missed something let me know, I really want to get this project up and running, it has been sitting for too long. When I finish swap, I have the OBD1 parts to add.

my organization is set up like this.

label wiring harness
lock oil pump bolt
mount oil pan
fit a m42 radiator
fit a brake booster
install engine

tell me if I am on the right track, this is my first swap.

[JGood]

================================================== =====
I have a bunch of wires how do I take one wire from the harness and say, yes, this is for the so and so (alternator)...Right now I am trying to label my S52 wiring harness to my e30 m3, any help is appreciated.

If I missed something let me know, I really want to get this project up and running, it has been sitting for too long. When I finish swap, I have the OBD1 parts to add.

my organization is set up like this.

label wiring harness
lock oil pump bolt
mount oil pan
fit a m42 radiator
fit a brake booster
install engine

tell me if I am on the right track, this is my first swap.

Make a list of each pin, and what it's labeled as in the ETK (to and from), for both the engine and the car. Most should be self explanatory... try to match them up and post a new thread here with what you've come up with, we can help.

[AldcE30]

tree house racing makes a harness for the swap,

[ForcedFirebird]

tree house racing makes a harness for the swap,

A lot of people/companies do. IMO there's no reason to purchase one when it's only a few wires to adapt the e30 chassis to the 24v harnesses. Also, re-pinning the connectors is far cleaner and more stock looking in lieu of an adapter hanging out.

[DREWHALL]

don't know if this was ever added:

Wiki says that 944 booster has a 10mm shaft, but it's actually 12mm and has to be modified just like e21 ones.

There are two manufacturers, ATE and Girling. ATE has a 10mm shaft and only needs to be threaded the rest of the way down, has the same thread pitch as the E30. Girling has the 12mm shaft and requires the extra work.

[humzak77]

I love that you made this thread. Helps a lot