The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY
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Heater core and evaporator. I have changed evap without removing the dash, but it's a lot easier when apart. Lots more access for the gummy tape and making sure the condensate is sealed up tight.Leave a comment:
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going to swap dash and carpet out.
The A/C had a R134a conversion
is there anything under the dash i should be swapped out as a matter or course while i have access?Leave a comment:
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Re: the LC Wylie conversion..... went a different route... made a tie-in piece for the suction side and the factory hose fits without modification on the discharge.
The A/C belt from the M30 engine'd 5 series fits this conversion perfectly.
Seeing 53 degree temps at the vents while doing highway speeds.
do you have a P/N on the compressor and would you mind sharing where you got the hoses??
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Anyone in the LI area that has done this before that wants to wrench with me to help a fellow e30 owner? I can provide food, beer, etc..Leave a comment:
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Hi guys,
I logged into a very ancient gmail account that had one of the links in my original post here. I noticed a lot of you were asking for requests to view the file as Google Drive changed something on their end. I can't seem to edit the post anymore, but this link is good for the chart listed in post Home
And just in case, I uploaded the image to the server here on R3V. Happy modding and see y'all again when I log back in after another 5 years lol.
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Dont over think it too much.
Replace all the o-rings, put in a new TX valve and dryer. if your condenser, compressor and hoses dont leak, just re-use. and put in an r134a pressure switch.
I reused an old r12 condensor with r134 and it works great. Its a small car after all.
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'89 convertible - back in Texas, so let's fix the AC. We charged it up after we bought the car in Colorado, and it's gotten crappier since then. No appreciable cold air now.
Hose fittings are R134. But condenser looks to be original, it's serpentine.
So I'm dealing with a half-assed conversion, at best. I'm in for a new condenser for sure. Suspect the conversion paid no attention to O-rings either.
Thoughts as to next steps? Think they replaced the AC hoses, filled with R134 and that's it? If so...treat this like a full-on conversion?
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Great info and nice hack on the suction hose! So much cleaner installation without oil cooler lines in the way. I'm still addressing that on my '92 cabrio conversion and will post a final summary when everything's put back together and pumping cold air.
Re: the LC Wylie conversion..... went a different route... made a tie-in piece for the suction side and the factory hose fits without modification on the discharge.
The A/C belt from the M30 engine'd 5 series fits this conversion perfectly.
Seeing 53 degree temps at the vents while doing highway speeds.
Leave a comment:
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Re: the LC Wylie conversion..... went a different route... made a tie-in piece for the suction side and the factory hose fits without modification on the discharge.
The A/C belt from the M30 engine'd 5 series fits this conversion perfectly.
Seeing 53 degree temps at the vents while doing highway speeds.
Leave a comment:
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Quick little update: I checked again and asked ECS Tuning what was up with the two condensers - also noticed that one of them went from ~$100 to ~$175! Sounds like Nissens may have updated/superceded a design with a new one, or something weird like that. I wouldn't be surprised if one of them gets listed as discontinued in the near future and it's back to just a single Nissens parallel flow option for the e30.
Anyways, bought the condenser and associated mounting hardware. Also ordered the LC Wylie bracket. Next step for me will be figuring out how to fit an IC and aux fan somewhere in there.Leave a comment:
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Regarding the LC Wylie bracket conversion, don't forget that you also have to modify the lines to/from the compressor.
I had Discount Auto AC in Daytona, FL, rebuild the compressor from my Touring. Great result. Great customer service. The cost was about $250, so if you have a rebuildable core and don't want the hassle of upgrading to a modern compressor, that's much cheaper than the options others have posted.
CoryLeave a comment:
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The $500 compressor are typically rebuilt OE units which are still r12 units. I don't see the point when you can get one designed for r134 for a fraction of the price..assuming you can mount it. FYI virtually ALL e30 compressors came with seals that were r134 compatible. I have a service bulletin somewhere spelling them out and it's probably posted earlier in this thread. Point being the seals are not the main issue but rather the pressure rating. Beyond that you need a new expansion valve and should upgrade the hoses since they will leak more and more over time.
I'd jump the resistor and everything else is optionalLeave a comment:
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Actually I had no intention of buying a compressor for ~$1300, lol. There are a couple out of stock for <$500. So a $170 bracket plus $150 Sanden compressor seems like the way to go.
If it's this one:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...64528385712kt/
Then it looks like a Bosch Behr Wing Cell compressor which is a R12 design probably with R134a compatible seals.
Stick with a Sanden wobble plate design built for R134a - that worked for me!
Will keep an eye on your build thread!Leave a comment:
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If it's this one:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...64528385712kt/
Then it looks like a Bosch Behr Wing Cell compressor which is a R12 design probably with R134a compatible seals.
Stick with a Sanden wobble plate design built for R134a - that worked for me!
Will keep an eye on your build thread!Leave a comment:

Leave a comment: