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Shift Lever and Short Shifters
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I personally like the longer lever but less throw(ie more length below the ball). My z3 1.9 is good enough.
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Thought i would submit my new experience with the X5 shifter.
The shifter comes with a large angle and should be straightened for proper positioning. There are a number of ways to do the bend and it should have a couple degrees left in it. The picture is taken from front of car perspective.
The other shifter pictured is a stock 325i shifter. The fore-back throw is shorter compared to the stock while left to right (2nd to 3rd) is noticable but not at all uncomforatable. The 1.5 inch height increase is awkward at first but really does feel like it should have been like that originally. The configuration is in short, fun.
With X5 shifter, washers of any kind are not needed due to wider bushing core. Fit is snug.
Balancer removed.
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hey guys
I installed the z3 1.9 lever with all new bushings and a weighted selector rod.
I love it.
time for a new shift knob
I really like the zhp cut and weighted shift knobs
I beleive that they dont have little grub screws to screw them down can anyone confirm?
I believe its a press fit like the orginal e30 knob.
since the z3 lever starts getting wider a lot closer to the top of the lever compared to the stock lever.
Is there enough room to press the shift knob on and have room for the shift boot?
here is a link to the shift knob
Last edited by iwantspeed; 08-28-2009, 10:53 AM.
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Okay, I got through a good number of these pages, and I didn't really see anything on the UUC SSK going onto an M42 powered E30 318ic (without A/C), or a BMP Design SSK going on an M42 powered E30 318is (with A/C)
First of all, the UUC SSK onto my E30 318ic:
My vert doesn't have airconditioning, so it has a balancer on the guibo. By having the guibo with the extra ring around it, the car comes stock with a bent selector rod (Part #25111221250) for clearance. No need for modification, and it's marginally cheaper than buying a straight rod and bending it. The kit comes with a relocator ring for the pivot ball. Ball bearings are fixed in place instead of brass or delerin bushings at the end of the shifter. The kit also includes a set of delerin bushings for the front carrier bracket (where the bitch clip is). The shifter has rubber inside to isolate vibration... this has no effect on how sturdy the shift feels. The height of the shift knob is adjustable. Direct install. The feel for the shift is strong and mostly effortless. After having this in my car for about 3 years now, the shift is very smooth. I love it!! Make me happy I spent a good 2 hours installing it (Damn bitch clip!!!!!) Combined with a UUC clutch stop, I can bang though the gears in no time.
Now, the BMP SSK onto my E30 318is:
My 318is has A/C, so no balancer on the guibo. The kit looks like this:
The kit is actually for a 1992 E34 525i, but all the dimensions are the same, surprisingly enough. There's no rubber to reduce vibration in the shift lever... it seems to be filled with resin. Very sturdy. Height is not adjustable, bushings are delerin, and it comes with a very heavy duty selector rod, and tranny selector. Carrier ball bushing does not get relocated, so the end of the shift lever comes very close to the drive shaft, but never touches. New rear carrier bushing was installed with this kit to make sure the shifter would never contact the drive shaft. Direct install. But I don't like it. It cost about 1/3 less that the UUC kit, but fails in comparison so far. It's been in for about a month now and has become slightly less notchy. it's just not as precise and smooth. definately a shorter shift... actually shorter than the UUC, and only took about 20 minutes to install.
Overall, I think that the UUC SSK is a 10 out of 10 for my application if price is no object. For a hundred bucks, the BMP SSK definately shortens the shift without relocating the carrier ball socket, and a hell of a lot cheaper that UUC.
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Originally posted by stevehecht View PostI have done ALL my homework and have read all 40 pages of this thread. I have a remaining question that someone else brought up. Why isn't there more feedback on using the E36 M3 shift lever? Its throw is just a bit shorter than the Z3 1.9L and it stands taller in the cabin. OE part # is 25117527247 and it's not available from BMA in their online catalogue. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Is there a reason this is so hard to track down? I'm sure the Z3 lever would be sufficient for my needs but I'm thinking a slighter taller shifter might be more to my liking. Any more information lurking out there?
I think the Z3 shifter is just right for most people, just a tiny bit shorter is nice, with a short shifter, front-to-back throw is angularly reduced but side to side movement is not, so the only way to reduce that is to shorten the shifter. The Z3 is just slightly shorter side-to-side and just right fore-and-aft.
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I have done ALL my homework and have read all 40 pages of this thread. I have a remaining question that someone else brought up. Why isn't there more feedback on using the E36 M3 shift lever? Its throw is just a bit shorter than the Z3 1.9L and it stands taller in the cabin. OE part # is 25117527247 and it's not available from BMA in their online catalogue. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Is there a reason this is so hard to track down? I'm sure the Z3 lever would be sufficient for my needs but I'm thinking a slighter taller shifter might be more to my liking. Any more information lurking out there?
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Originally posted by whodwho View PostSo there is too much material bunched up for the knob to fit all the way down? If you turn your boot inside out is there a long stretch of straight you can trim before it flairs out for the boot?
I am running without it because mine is torn and I don't mind the extra transmission noise (plus, bare BMW shifters look cool). I will probably replace it a little later on down the road.
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So there is too much material bunched up for the knob to fit all the way down? If you turn your boot inside out is there a long stretch of straight you can trim before it flairs out for the boot?
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Originally posted by whodwho View PostShould work, what part of the boot is not fitting?
Check out the picture, the E30 shifter has a longer necked down portion below where the shift knob rests, which is where the shift boot fitting rests. The Z3 shifter doesn't have this portion, it necks back up right below where the shift knob rests.
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I just installed the Z3 1.9, took about 30 minutes without removing the driveshaft (or harmonic balancer, short on time), I've got a subtle grind in first and third, but the throw is perfect, very nice mod. Tomorrow I'll remove the balancer and later I'll replace some linkage bushings.
There's one thing though, you can't reuse the stock E30 shift boot without modification, I'm running no boot for the moment, what boots have others used with the Z3 shifter?
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If you fully understand the diagram, and have the appropriate tools you can probably manage to get it on with out taking off the drive shaft and the exhaust. Its just easier to do it with those 2 items removed.
One tips is to place a jack on the trans with a piece of wood to prevent damaging it.
then remove the support for the trans.
lower the trans a bit to have better access to the bitch clip.
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No, it can be done with the exhaust and driveshaft in place. Just not very pleasant.
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