Shift Lever and Short Shifters

[Jean]

"I'm still running the Z4 3.0 lever (I think?), and love it! I also think it's starting to get a bit loose, the lever that is. Might look into getting another one just to tighten it up again."

what exactly is getting a bit loose ? Does it move up and down a little or something else ? the newer shift levers are all one piece (well plus the shift knob) unlike the older e30 levers made out of bunch parts that come loose.

Just trying to picture what the problem might be... ;)

[Sean]

"I'm still running the Z4 3.0 lever (I think?), and love it! I also think it's starting to get a bit loose, the lever that is. Might look into getting another one just to tighten it up again."

what exactly is getting a bit loose ? Does it move up and down a little or something else ? the newer shift levers are all one piece (well plus the shift knob) unlike the older e30 levers made out of bunch parts that come loose.

Just trying to picture what the problem might be... ;)

Well, the one thing that's always kinda bugged me is the rear mount for the shift carrier - it's rubber, so it's never fully stable.

But, I think what may be going on is the lever itself is just starting to wear a little bit. I shift hard and fast, and I put a lot of force on that shift lever. It's not all one piece, I don't think, it's got a joint right above the falcrum. Don't get me wrong, it's no where near BAD. Just not as tight and precise as it was on day one, ya know? I'm just bein knit-picky. hehe

[naika]

Snap some pictures of how it looks installed (in the unbent form) in various gears and neutral.

I will, give me a couple days.

[Jean]

Hmm interesting, I thought just the old e30 shifters weren't one piece ... looking at this picture the 325ix vs z3

[rThor432]

Hmm interesting, I thought just the old e30 shifters weren't one piece ... looking at this picture the 325ix vs z3

The old E30 shifters arent one piece. The "new" shifters arent one piece either. There is noticeable play between the bottom section (where the pivot ball is) and the top (where the shift knob connects).

You can put the bottom in a vice and move the top quite a bit.

[Jean]

The old E30 shifters arent one piece. The "new" shifters arent one piece either. There is noticeable play between the bottom section (where the pivot ball is) and the top (where the shift knob connects).

You can put the bottom in a vice and move the top quite a bit.

That's half of the problem I got on my original shifter. The lower and upper sections are not tight, I was thinking the z3 shifters are one piece. Doh!

[naika]

That's half of the problem I got on my original shifter. The lower and upper sections are not tight, I was thinking the z3 shifters are one piece. Doh!

I think they are, at last the Z3 2.8 since the shifter is all metal and the ball is plastic, looks like if it was molded on the shaft or something.
Here are the pics of mine installed in all gears. Starting from Neutral, first, second, third, fourth, fifth and reverse is the last pic. Took me a while.
I did not bend the shaft even though I wish I had slightly to the left, as you can see it seats on the right too much but nothing that affects the driving IMO.
Enjoy

[AlarmedBread]

Limp lever fix.

I'm still running the Z4 3.0 lever (I think?), and love it! I also think it's starting to get a bit loose, the lever that is. Might look into getting another one just to tighten it up again.

I had this too using a z3 3.0 shifter, it was also a tad shorter than I really wanted it to be. My main issue was a limp/rubbery feel, not so much slop. Here's how I attacked the issue.

For this you will need the following.

Limp shift lever
Tube of epoxy, anything that is good for metal/rubber.
heat gun
exacto knife
hacksaw
vice or pliers
Straw or wooden dowel
masking tape


The culprit, all levers are like this to isolate vibration, the rubber is attached to the rod for about 2cm around the area that has the holes in it, the rest is loose. It is glued into the top part that the knob attaches to. I used a heat gun and a vice to seperate the two, be careful not to crush the end in the vice and mess up your lever, use some wood and grab on the rod.




Now choose your weapon, I used a hack saw and xacto knife to cut the rubber, I left the top alone and left a piece at the bottom to help center the rod in the tube while the epoxy sets. I also chose to legnthen my lever while doing this, I used a chunk of the old rubber and some more epoxy in the tube as a spacer, but you can leave this step out. Also at this point wrap the plastic fulcrum ball with masking tape so you don't get epoxy on it.




Get some epoxy in there, mix it up with your straw and spread it around everywhere, this will make it much easier to slide the rubber back in (that was a bitch to get off huh?) Don't take too long, depending on what kind of epoxy you use it can set up fast, mine had a 2 hour drying time so I had plenty of time to work.




Now the tricky part, slide the rod back into the tube while it's secured in your vice, then fill with epoxy and pack it in there with your straw to get all the air bubbles out. Use the holes that are there to help get epoxy in the tip and get any air bubbles. Fill it nearly to the top, then use your rubber piece we left on the rod to center it, press it down and some epoxy will come out of the holes, clean this up, spread it around on the rubber and end of the rod, then tape up the holes and let it set. Overnight is best.





Here we have the final product, a lengthened and stiffened shift lever for only a few dollars and not much effort.




No more limp feeling! :D

Side effects include increased vibration felt through the shift knob, but it's not terrible and is much better than the jello feeling that the rubber levers have. Had this in the car for a couple months without issues. I'll get pictures up of how I solved the rear carrier problem soon.

[Sean]

I had this too using a z3 3.0 shifter, it was also a tad shorter than I really wanted it to be. My main issue was a limp/rubbery feel, not so much slop. Here's how I attacked the issue.

For this you will need the following.

Limp shift lever
Tube of epoxy, anything that is good for metal/rubber.
heat gun
exacto knife
hacksaw
vice or pliers
Straw or wooden dowel
masking tape


The culprit, all levers are like this to isolate vibration, the rubber is attached to the rod for about 2cm around the area that has the holes in it, the rest is loose. It is glued into the top part that the knob attaches to. I used a heat gun and a vice to seperate the two, be careful not to crush the end in the vice and mess up your lever, use some wood and grab on the rod.




Now choose your weapon, I used a hack saw and xacto knife to cut the rubber, I left the top alone and left a piece at the bottom to help center the rod in the tube while the epoxy sets. I also chose to legnthen my lever while doing this, I used a chunk of the old rubber and some more epoxy in the tube as a spacer, but you can leave this step out. Also at this point wrap the plastic fulcrum ball with masking tape so you don't get epoxy on it.




Get some epoxy in there, mix it up with your straw and spread it around everywhere, this will make it much easier to slide the rubber back in (that was a bitch to get off huh?) Don't take too long, depending on what kind of epoxy you use it can set up fast, mine had a 2 hour drying time so I had plenty of time to work.




Now the tricky part, slide the rod back into the tube while it's secured in your vice, then fill with epoxy and pack it in there with your straw to get all the air bubbles out. Use the holes that are there to help get epoxy in the tip and get any air bubbles. Fill it nearly to the top, then use your rubber piece we left on the rod to center it, press it down and some epoxy will come out of the holes, clean this up, spread it around on the rubber and end of the rod, then tape up the holes and let it set. Overnight is best.





Here we have the final product, a lengthened and stiffened shift lever for only a few dollars and not much effort.




No more limp feeling! :D

Side effects include increased vibration felt through the shift knob, but it's not terrible and is much better than the jello feeling that the rubber levers have. Had this in the car for a couple months without issues. I'll get pictures up of how I solved the rear carrier problem soon.

Sweet! Nice little writeup there, Chris!

[Hallen]

Has anybody else tried the Z3 M Roadster shifter? I got one this weekend and ran into problems with it.

See my blog for the full story www.griplimit.net

The upshot of it is that the hole at the bottom of the shifter where it connects to the shift rod is too small. The shift rod pin will not fit into that hole. Well, it might, if you use a press or something. But it certainly cannot slide on and off by hand.

It might work for somebody if they drill out the hard plastic bushing to expand the hole size just a hair. That is what I would have done if I hadn't broken the bushing off.

[Jean]

Installed a z3 1.9 lever and all new oem hardware in a metal console. No issues, very nice upgrade from stock worn out shifter.

Buy 1 upper ball cup, 2 lower ball cups and sand one of the two lower cups down in order to fit all 3 in the metal console and lock with the circlip. Cut the upper ball cup with a sharp blade and slip on the shift lever. Replaced all worn out hardware and enjoy !

Highly recommend it.

[///M-TRD3]

AHHHHH Im still torn between going with the Z4 2.5 OR Z3 1.9 SSK.

I want it for somewhat DD so I want it smooth which is why ive narrowed it down to these two. Ive driven a actuall Z4 2.5 and loved the feel of it (who's to say that lever will feel the same in a E30 tho?), never tried Z3 1.9 but it seems everyone raves about how smooth and good the feel is for driving rather often.

Anyone ever had both of these or wanna give there vote for one or the other ?? Thanks.

Ive since had the Z3 1.9 in my car all last summer and dont get me wrong I do like it alot, but it isnt very short at all (in terms of throws), I mean either it is and im just used to it now or its not which is the trade off for it being smooth.

That being said can anyone DIRECTLY compare it with the Z4 2.5 which is the next step I pressume ?? Im thinking of switching to the Z4 2.5 under the assumption the throws will be slightly reduced further yet maintain pretty smooth shifting and just lower the shifter height in car?? sound correct or ??

[FredK]

Dude. Is that BMA lever pre-bent?

If so, I will hit a kitten's face with my 2.8 lever I got from KO to get it to the proper angle.

Ok I need to bend my 2.8 lever. Heeerrrrreee kitty kitty!

[bimmer_E30]

i have eta what would be my best choice. Z4 ???

[rThor432]

^Whatever lever you want. It's your choice based on what you are looking for.

@ FredK, do you have clearance issues with your lever un-bent?