Lost in a sea of tuning... (Ostrich 2.0)

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  • Digitalwave
    is a poseur
    • Oct 2003
    • 6276

    #31
    Does the tach drop out entirely when it cuts? Have you tried a different CPS (oem metal one preferably).

    RISING EDGE

    Let's drive fast and have fun.

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    • McGyver
      R3V Elite
      • Jun 2009
      • 4437

      #32
      Dumb question, but is your ECU seeing a bad condition (excessive lean/rich, loss of timing, etc.) and initiating a fuel cut as a protection? Do you have any engine protections turned on in the software?
      sigpic
      1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
      1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
      1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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      • Tinkerer007
        Wrencher
        • Mar 2013
        • 252

        #33
        Originally posted by Digitalwave
        Does the tach drop out entirely when it cuts? Have you tried a different CPS (oem metal one preferably).
        The tach does not drop out completely. It stays around 3800 RPM. I have tried another CPS (it was used, from a parted car).

        Originally posted by McGyver
        Dumb question, but is your ECU seeing a bad condition (excessive lean/rich, loss of timing, etc.) and initiating a fuel cut as a protection? Do you have any engine protections turned on in the software?
        I am not familiar with the engine protection feature. I am running a tune from SSSquid that is for my engine.

        If I hold the throttle all the way open, the WBO2 shows it going lean, and I get a backfire.
        If I press the throttle moderately, it accelerates nicely.

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        • McGyver
          R3V Elite
          • Jun 2009
          • 4437

          #34
          Originally posted by Tinkerer007
          I am not familiar with the engine protection feature. I am running a tune from SSSquid that is for my engine.
          Wait, you're using a stock ECU with a chip tune? I thought you were using a standalone?!?

          Originally posted by Tinkerer007
          If I hold the throttle all the way open, the WBO2 shows it going lean, and I get a backfire.
          If I press the throttle moderately, it accelerates nicely.
          Stock ECU: Are you using your stock Throttle Position Sensor? Is your TPS adjusted and functioning correctly? Does it signal WOT when the throttle is wide open?

          Standalone: Are you using an e36 variable TPS? Did you calibrate the sensor?
          sigpic
          1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
          1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
          1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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          • bmwman91
            No R3VLimiter
            • Oct 2004
            • 3128

            #35
            Check the condition of the crank damper, specifically looking to see any visible cracks in the rubber. If you pry on the outside a bit, does it move a lot relative to the hub? The rubber can start to go on these, causing the outer toothed wheel to get wobbly, and then ECU loses track of crank position. It could definitely be in the process of failing and causing RPM-related problems.

            Transaction Feedback: LINK

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            • ForcedFirebird
              R3V OG
              • Feb 2007
              • 8300

              #36
              Originally posted by McGyver
              Dumb question, but is your ECU seeing a bad condition (excessive lean/rich, loss of timing, etc.) and initiating a fuel cut as a protection? Do you have any engine protections turned on in the software?
              Ostrich 2.0 tuning is an emulator that lets you manipulate the chip file and change it on the fly. Stock ECU.

              Originally posted by bmwman91
              Check the condition of the crank damper, specifically looking to see any visible cracks in the rubber. If you pry on the outside a bit, does it move a lot relative to the hub? The rubber can start to go on these, causing the outer toothed wheel to get wobbly, and then ECU loses track of crank position. It could definitely be in the process of failing and causing RPM-related problems.
              That makes me wonder. More than once at the shop I have come across an engine build where the assembler didn't tighten the crank bolt enough. When that happens, the reluctor is relying on the woodfruff key. That key gets damaged and the crank hub moves causing all kinds of issues.

              Tinkerer007 Whet compression numbers do you have after moving the cam?
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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              • ForcedFirebird
                R3V OG
                • Feb 2007
                • 8300

                #37
                Originally posted by McGyver

                Are you using your stock Throttle Position Sensor? Is your TPS adjusted and functioning correctly? Does it signal WOT when the throttle is wide open?

                Standalone: Are you using an e36 variable TPS? Did you calibrate the sensor?
                With Ostrich, you can see the maps that the ECU is reading in real time (just like in Tunerstudio), so it would be very clear during that data tracing if the WOT maps were not being read.

                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                • Tinkerer007
                  Wrencher
                  • Mar 2013
                  • 252

                  #38
                  Thanks for the additional things to check.
                  I am not sure if I will get to it before I go out of town for the long weekend.

                  Here is a video of acceleration. The first pull is light throttle. The second pull is all the way to the floor.

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                  • bmwman91
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Oct 2004
                    • 3128

                    #39
                    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
                    That makes me wonder. More than once at the shop I have come across an engine build where the assembler didn't tighten the crank bolt enough. When that happens, the reluctor is relying on the woodfruff key. That key gets damaged and the crank hub moves causing all kinds of issues.
                    Oof, yeah that's a recipe for a bad time. A lot of folks don't quite know how important the toothed ring on the damper is...the single most important thing for the ECU!

                    I suspect that my HG blew in a large part because the rubber in the damper wheel failed and let the toothed ring go partially unconstrained, leading to the ECU firing the ignition way too early. I guess if one was "lucky" and they instead had the woodruff key shear, the damper would get "stuck" a little off and just cause severely retarded ignition timing.

                    Transaction Feedback: LINK

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                    • bmwman91
                      No R3VLimiter
                      • Oct 2004
                      • 3128

                      #40
                      Originally posted by Tinkerer007
                      Thanks for the additional things to check.
                      I am not sure if I will get to it before I go out of town for the long weekend.

                      Here is a video of acceleration. The first pull is light throttle. The second pull is all the way to the floor.
                      Hmm, well it is likely not the crank damper or CPS. If it was, it would have an issue revving all the way regardless of the throttle input. Same goes for the ignition coil.

                      Honestly, it may well be the dynamic compression or something like what FF was suggesting. I can't quite think of what else would lead to a cut / misfire like that.

                      Transaction Feedback: LINK

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                      • Victell
                        E30 Enthusiast
                        • Feb 2004
                        • 1081

                        #41
                        I would verify correct spark plug gap. Even if it is correct, tighten it up some and see if that makes any difference.

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                        • ForcedFirebird
                          R3V OG
                          • Feb 2007
                          • 8300

                          #42
                          Originally posted by bmwman91

                          Oof, yeah that's a recipe for a bad time. A lot of folks don't quite know how important the toothed ring on the damper is...the single most important thing for the ECU!

                          I suspect that my HG blew in a large part because the rubber in the damper wheel failed and let the toothed ring go partially unconstrained, leading to the ECU firing the ignition way too early. I guess if one was "lucky" and they instead had the woodruff key shear, the damper would get "stuck" a little off and just cause severely retarded ignition timing.
                          Actually what happens is the key gets wallowed out from acel/decel and the timing becomes erratic. Of the ~.5 dozen times I've come across it, it blew one stroker motor. After dissecting it, put an angle finder on it and the reluctor could move something like ~10° advanced to -22° retarded while the crank was stationary. o.0
                          john@m20guru.com
                          Links:
                          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                          • bmwman91
                            No R3VLimiter
                            • Oct 2004
                            • 3128

                            #43
                            Wow, yeah that will certainly not do anything good for the engine!

                            Transaction Feedback: LINK

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                            • vWBIRDWv
                              Member
                              • Jan 2016
                              • 43

                              #44
                              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird

                              Actually what happens is the key gets wallowed out from acel/decel and the timing becomes erratic. Of the ~.5 dozen times I've come across it, it blew one stroker motor. After dissecting it, put an angle finder on it and the reluctor could move something like ~10° advanced to -22° retarded while the crank was stationary. o.0
                              Found this on my Stroker, Woodruf key wallowed out the inside of the crank and the timing gear..... had .05 play in each direction.car ran just fine but the dampener was so loose it sounded like it had a spun main bearing..thankfully i caught it when i did could have been disastrous ...

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                              • Tinkerer007
                                Wrencher
                                • Mar 2013
                                • 252

                                #45
                                Even with the cam timing retarded 4 degrees, I still need octane boost for high loads. If I unplug O2 sensor on freeway, it runs rich, 10 - 15. With O2 it runs 14 -16. Here is a pic with compression numbers: Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

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