From knowing nothing to having a Thunderbird supercharger on an m20b27i

[whodwho]

"0280155737. These injectors are commonly referred to as 36# from L67 supercharged engines but flow more close to 34 lbs/hr @ 2.5 bar or 43.5 PSI"

I have them in the MS2 as 34#.

Does look like specs are all over the place, I even seen the quote you found with the wrong bar/psi 8^)

They look like they should be 36 but you should be safe with your approach and adjust accordingly.

[Ether-D]

There's certainly a typo in there. Now what it is, Idk. I was just looking for the 43.5 number. I get the feeling that the 34# @43.5psi is correct. Especially if the GMs of that era are run at 3.5bar. The internet says it's true.

Now, next I had the my desktop hooked up to the ms2 while it was in my car and the AFR on the computer screen was very different from the AFR on the gauge face. The gauge read 12.5-12.8 at idle and the monitor showed pretty much full rich and wouldn't move unless I goosed the throttle. It would then jump up to 13ish and then fall straight off to full rich again. Ideas?

[Ether-D]

36# @ 55psi = 32# @ 43.5psi says this calculator:

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php

[Ether-D]

Now, next I had the my desktop hooked up to the ms2 while it was in my car and the AFR on the computer screen was very different from the AFR on the gauge face. The gauge read 12.5-12.8 at idle and the monitor showed pretty much full rich and wouldn't move unless I goosed the throttle. It would then jump up to 13ish and then fall straight off to full rich again. Ideas?

I really need some input on this.

[codrum]

I really need some input on this.

Sounds like your grounds may be hooked up incorrectly on the gauge, MS, or both. Make sure the wideband controller AND sensor is grounded correctly. Which wideband setup are you using? If it's one of Innovate's products connect directly to the wideband controller using their software to eliminate the gauge and MS as being the problem and use that as a baseline for comparing the gauge and MS readings.

Also it could be that the analog outputs are configured differently - usually one is setup to simulate narrowband, the other is wideband from the factory. Check to make sure the settings in MS match what the controller outputs on each analog wire.

[Ether-D]

It is an innovate lc-2. Ok, grounds incorrectly hooked up perhaps. What would be the correct way (as simple terms as possible)?

[codrum]

It is an innovate lc-2. Ok, grounds incorrectly hooked up perhaps. What would be the correct way (as simple terms as possible)?

Direct from the LC-2 manual, it sounds more likely that one of your analog outputs is still programmed to simulate narrowband:

The LC-2 has 4 stripped wires.

1 Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your vehicle. A
switched 12V source goes ON as soon as “key on” power is active. 4
2 The circuit to which you will pull power from should be able to support
an additional 3 amp draw. Make sure the connection is fused with a
minimum fuse size of 5A.
Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system,
ECU, and fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional
circuit using an automotive relay available at most any automotive parts
supplier. See the in the next section for a relay installation diagram.

3 The BLACK wire should be grounded to a solid ground source. The
best possible ground source would be the battery ground (-) post.
If other Innovate Motorsports devices are going to be daisy-chained
along with the LC-2, it is recommended that all devices be connected to a
single ground point, ideally the battery ground (-) post.

4 Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2)
can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data
loggers, aftermarket programmable ECUs, or AFR display gauges. If
either one or both of these wires are not being used, isolate and tape
the wire(s) in an out of the way location. Each of the two analog output
wires can connect to one device that can accept this 0-5v potential
output.

The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is
0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V
= 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. Note: The LC-2’s ground should share the
same grounding source as the device to which you are feeding the
analog outputs, the easiest wait to accomplish this is to run an aux
ground wire from the ground point of the LC-2 to the ground or signal
ground of the device you are interfacing with.

Source: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-2_Manual.pdf

[Ether-D]

Yeah, I have read that. A couple of times. I was hoping someone would say "I have ___color wire attached to ___ location, and ____color wire attached to ____ location and it works."

My apologies, but I need some hand-holding on electronic wizardry.

[The Dark Side of Will]

If your AFR meter is made to take the output of a conventional narrow band sensor, then it should receive the brown output.

Black should be grounded to a ground, red should go to hot. For testing purposes, you can run these wires directly to the battery terminals.

[RickSloan]

You need to calibrate the Sensor to send a wide band signal to both the gauge and the laptop. Download I think LM Programmer v3.33 and you should be able set the signal it sends. Ask syncro325is if you need more input, he knows what to actually do.

[Ether-D]

So I can't use the yellow for the gauge and the ms2? Cause that's how I have it now.

Edit: "Each of the two analog output wires can connect to one device that can accept this 0-5v potential output."
-maybe this is the problem. So now I have to hook another thing to my goddamn computer and hope I can fumble my way through a bunch of digital mumbo-jumbo. Great. Why can't everything be pulleys and fuckin' metal?

[whodwho]

Check that the output is not set for narrowband and that you have calibrated it in TS

[Ether-D]

I didn't have it entered in TS. Just did that. Thanks Keith.

Also thanks to everyone else that has offered help. Yesterday was frustrating. It was the first really warm and sunny day this year in TN and I wanted to drive with the top down soooo baaaaad. But I resisted. Gonna be worth it...

[Ether-D]

Alright, update. Took it for a ten mile test drive. Just normal DD style driving. Idles at AFR 12.0-12.5, under medium load accelerating it hangs around 12.9-13.5, but cruising AKA super light throttle 2-3000 RPM it is trying to be a bit lean, 15.0-15.3. So I just decided to not cruise for the duration of the trip. I would let it decelerate then medium throttle back up to 65 then coast then medium throttle until I got back home. Stop and go did great, the only problem areas are that real light throttle and the rich idle. Any pointers on how to help remedy these areas?

[whodwho]

Target a warmed up idle ~14, light cruise is fine up around 15-16 as long as you don't feel it surging(usually when closer to 17ish) and when you start to roll on the throttle is richens up.

Sounds like you are timid to start adjusting the VE table, get the registered version of TS and let it at it 8^)