Turbo oil feed

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Iloveboost
    Advanced Member
    • Sep 2019
    • 136

    #1

    Turbo oil feed

    Im on the learning process for the oil setup on my future
    m20T

    i know how to route the drain from the turbo to the Pan .

    i want to know how to feed the turbo ?
    ive seen many people put a T on the oil pressure swich,
    is the oil pressure swich is the same as the oil pressure sensor close to the oil filter?
    if no , where is located the oil pressure swich.

    second question , did i must put oil filter relocation kit to clear the manifold of i shoul be fine stay with oem location ?

    last thing , if I put an oil filter reloc kit, will I can put an oil cooler ?

    thanks !!
  • nomansland92
    E30 Mastermind
    • Aug 2010
    • 1657

    #2
    Ya most people just tee of the oil pressure switch. These cars don't have pressure sensors factory but always a good idea to add one. Depends on the manifold you get, some clear some dont. I recommend a oil cooler but lots of people don't use them. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    IX being restored here

    Ix turbo build here

    Comment

    • varg
      No R3VLimiter
      • May 2014
      • 3283

      #3
      The best way is to use an oil cooler banjo bolt that has had a fitting attached to the head, so that you are getting fresh oil right out of the filter for your turbo. Whether your filter needs to be relocated will depend on what manifold you use. As long as there is enough clearance to get the oil filter on and off a runner near the filter isn't an issue, if it's uncomfortably close (within a couple of inches) it's easy to bend up a piece of sheet metal to shield the filter.

      IG @turbovarg
      '91 318is, M20 turbo
      [CoTM: 4-18]
      '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
      '93 RX-7 FD3S

      Comment

      • Iloveboost
        Advanced Member
        • Sep 2019
        • 136

        #4
        Thanks !!
        can you shoot me picture of that banjo bolt ? Or a link to buy things to make it happen ?!

        Comment

        • varg
          No R3VLimiter
          • May 2014
          • 3283

          #5
          I don't know who sells them, I just think I've seen it around. I took mine to a local hydraulic shop and had them drill the center of the bolt and braze the AN fitting onto it.
          Click image for larger version

Name:	uarLYy8.jpg
Views:	1103
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	9943975

          IG @turbovarg
          '91 318is, M20 turbo
          [CoTM: 4-18]
          '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
          '93 RX-7 FD3S

          Comment

          • citizen_insane
            Wrencher
            • Jan 2013
            • 216

            #6
            If you're not planning to run AC, you can rotate the oil filter housing toward the front of the engine and get a lot more clearance for the filter installation/removal. For actually supplying oil to the turbo I ended up machining a manifold which holds the stock oil switch, an oil pressure sensor, an oil temp sensor, and the turbo oil feed. I pulled the oil from the original location of the oil pressure switch near the filter.

            Comment

            • zwill23
              Mod Crazy
              • Jul 2015
              • 615

              #7
              I went with a similar setup to varg but just drilled and tapped the banjo bolt with a 1/4 NPT tap. Go slow and center the drill bit on the banjo bolt as much as possible and you should be okay. I haven’t had any leaks just tapping it.


              Comment

              • McGyver
                R3V Elite
                • Jun 2009
                • 4433

                #8
                Originally posted by zwill23
                I went with a similar setup to varg but just drilled and tapped the banjo bolt with a 1/4 NPT tap. Go slow and center the drill bit on the banjo bolt as much as possible and you should be okay. I haven’t had any leaks just tapping it.
                This is the approach I'm going to use, although I have access to several lathes for the drilling/tapping.

                OP, I bet your local machine shop would drill/tap the bolt for less than it would cost you to buy a good set of drill bits and a tap.
                sigpic
                1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
                1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
                1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

                Comment

                • Iloveboost
                  Advanced Member
                  • Sep 2019
                  • 136

                  #9
                  Alright !
                  thanks everyone, it seem a good idea and I will go this route !

                  Comment

                  • varg
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • May 2014
                    • 3283

                    #10
                    Originally posted by McGyver
                    OP, I bet your local machine shop would drill/tap the bolt for less than it would cost you to buy a good set of drill bits and a tap.
                    Agreed. The whole reason I didn't even attempt to do it myself is because all I have are cheap bits, a hand drill and some old chinese taps. The hydraulic shop I went to nicely attached an AN fitting to mine for less than the cost of a good tap and bit. let alone the drill press I'd have needed to do it straight.

                    IG @turbovarg
                    '91 318is, M20 turbo
                    [CoTM: 4-18]
                    '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                    '93 RX-7 FD3S

                    Comment

                    • zwill23
                      Mod Crazy
                      • Jul 2015
                      • 615

                      #11
                      Thread revival here.

                      My turbo setup has over 30k miles on it now and I have been using this oil feed location the whole time. I recently just killed another BW S257, the first one lasted around 15k miles, the second roughly the same.

                      Have you guys had any turbo failures with this location? I am going to replace the oil feed line and test the oil filter housing location and teeing off the oil pressure switch to see if the flow is any different. At least on cold starts, I bet teeing off the oil pressure switch will get oil to the turbo faster.

                      Right now my theories for turbo failures are a bad oil feed line, bad oil feed location, and or poor turbo treatment. The car is often exposed to extreme temps in TX and I don't consciously let it idle after driving.

                      Comment

                      Working...