Well, I Am Going To Add Triple Webers To My 3.0L M20…

[E30-TourZing]

I have done it before with a high pressure pump. It can be really simple.
just a restriction in the return line to the tank . install a brass straight barbed fitting . tap it so you can thread in a drilled grub screw . Start with a 2.5 mm hole . Adjust the hole size till you get around 3.5 psi at the carbs.

I have had 3 Dcoe 45 Webers on my m20 for 25 years . They will work excellent. I prefer them over the fuel injection. I used a 323i distributor
for years. Not a lot of room for the distributor cap but works good . I now Use electromotive xdi ignition. Waisted spark . Sadly now no longer available.

I would just run really short stacks and the stock booster to start with. It
will still run great. The longer stacks are nice but will only make a subtle
difference.

I don’t run a booster on my car and prefer it to boosted brakes. Not for everyone though . I find it much easier to modulate the brakes. Boosted brakes lock up to easy for me. I made my own set up similar to lees with a willwood mount https://www.ebay.com/itm/400328937249 .
I use two 5/8” willwood masters With a remote adjuster in the cockpit to adjust the balance bar.

45 mm carbs with 36 mm chokes works good on a stock
2.5 engine . Good torque and will rev high .

slightly higher float level and a slightly rich idle mixture
are the secret to excellent off idle performance.

Thank you for your input! I ended up buying a aeromotive FPR w/ return that goes to 3 PSI. Hopefully this gets me the numbers that I am looking for. Are you saying I should add a restriction even with the FPR?

Unfortunately I didn't get the ability to add a booster and I added manual brakes to my car. I am sure it will be fine. I only use the car for fun spirited driving, it isn't a daily.

For ignition I am going wasted spark with the NoDiz ignition module. I think its the easiest situation to go with.

What are some of the positives and negatives you found with running DCOE's on your M20 for so long?

[Hdx]

I was saying use a restriction instead of a pressure regulator. Don’t do both.
the nodiz sounds great. I looked a the site, seems really reasonably priced to.

some of the + and - running Dcoe carbs on the m20
. Great increased performance
. excellent reliability
. simplifies the engine bay way less digitals .
. Simple and easy to tune
. great classic look
. incredible induction sound
negatives
. can get some fuel vapor smell in the garage after shutdown when hot.
. fuel mileage tends to be higher.
. No altitude compensation . You need to rejet and adjust idle mixture for best performance.
. No ability to tune on the fly with passenger and laptop. Or auto tune.

I like modern efi too . I have a e34 m5 with s38 running on ms and it is great but way more complicated and expensive to run .

one of the greatest cars I ever had was a 79 e21 323i with a close ratio transmission, built motor , with three Dcoe 45s and a points distributor .

[E30-TourZing]

Thank you all for the input this far! I will be adding more details shortly, but I’ve been hard at it and here is a little teaser of my motor.

[Panici]

That absolutely looks the business.
Can't wait to hear it sing!

[E30-TourZing]

Here is an update on where I am at. Basically I have the car about as far as I am going to take it. Next step, my tuner is going to build me a harness off of the NoDiz ME100X ignition. Then do startup and rolling road to set everything up.

This will be the last bigger build I do for a long while. Working 60+ hours a week with my job and spending my evenings and weekends slaving away has lead to this build not being as much fun as it should be. I also seem to have made a pretty annoying mistake. When I removed my slave cylinder before I pulled the motor, the rod was held in the bell housing and had pushed itself out of the slave cylinder. It felt normal, so I didnt do anything to look deeper. Upon reinstalling slave I may have installed the fork the wrong way. Would it make sense that the slave push rod doesn't have enough length if its pushing on the side where the pin is supposed to be? I am running a RHD lightweight flywheel and stock Sachs clutch kit.

I am fearful I now need to remove the transmission to confirm its correct. Any suggestions on what might be the issue?

[E30-TourZing]

Here are some update photos

[digger]

isn't the clutch fork symmetrical end to end?

[E30-TourZing]

isn't the clutch fork symmetrical end to end?

I thought so, and I was careful putting it back together, but AI says it’s not symmetrical - and I don’t have another one kicking around to see.

when I have installed them in the past, the push rod would touch and leave about 1cm of space before the flange hit. This time that didn’t happen.

[digger]

I thought so, and I was careful putting it back together, but AI says it’s not symmetrical - and I don’t have another one kicking around to see.

when I have installed them in the past, the push rod would touch and leave about 1cm of space before the flange hit. This time that didn’t happen.

i have one somewhere for a g260 i will see if i can find it later today. I am going by looking at pics on FCP/ECS atm for a new one not an original

[E30-TourZing]

i have one somewhere for a g260 i will see if i can find it later today. I am going by looking at pics on FCP/ECS atm for a new one not an original

Thank you Digger! I really don’t want to have to remove my transmission. I am stumped to why it’s an issue at all. I was certainly careful on putting it together, but I don’t want to rule out that I made a mistake

[digger]

Well I can confirm the fork is symmetrical end to end so doesn’t really go in a particular way except upside down wouldn’t really work . Ideally if there is a clear measureable wear pattern caused by either the plastic pivot or slave then you put back in sane way but likely not a big deal

[E30-TourZing]

Well I can confirm the fork is symmetrical end to end so doesn’t really go in a particular way except upside down wouldn’t really work . Ideally if there is a clear measureable wear pattern caused by either the plastic pivot or slave then you put back in sane way but likely not a big deal

I super appreciate this info. This isn't my first rodeo and I am confident I put everything together properly.

So it seems that my slave cylinder is over extending. I am not sure if the RHD flywheel is different than stock, so perhaps I need to add a CM to the rod to help it out. I just bought a new master cylinder and a slave cylinder and I will reassemble for there. I will also inspect with a camera.

[E30-TourZing]

Looks like my issue is that I am using a early model transmission with a single mass and the RHD flywheel. I should have used a E21 323i throwout bearing to compensate, but I will add some length to the rod and see where that sits. That being said it was the same setup before and It worked fine, so thats the only confusing part. I suppose it may have just been that the slave cylinder was able to work beyond its normal throw.

Here is a page about what we are dealing with. -

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ow-out-bearing

[digger]

I super appreciate this info. This isn't my first rodeo and I am confident I put everything together properly.

So it seems that my slave cylinder is over extending. I am not sure if the RHD flywheel is different than stock, so perhaps I need to add a CM to the rod to help it out. I just bought a new master cylinder and a slave cylinder and I will reassemble for there. I will also inspect with a camera.

what parts did you change and which did you keep while you were in there ? Over extension can be due to worn plastic pivot and badly worn throw out bearing

[E30-TourZing]

what parts did you change and which did you keep while you were in there ? Over extension can be due to worn plastic pivot and badly worn throw out bearing

Fair, I installed a new brass pivot when I replaced my flywheel with RHD one. I also did a stock late model Sachs clutch, pressure plate and flywheel at that time. It all has about 5,000-6,000 Km's since. Should all be in strong working order.