simple hidden m20 perfomance?

[digger]

You're talking out your asshole sideways if you think that someone is better off spending a thousand dollars on a Miller/MAF kit on a completely stock setup rather than a chip from one of the professional tuners for $300.

If he wants the most bang for his buck he'll take that money and spend it on driving school. That's the best first mod anyone can benefit from, imo.

stop being a douche, the miller MAF kit is $315 and the PSIK is $649 which is all that is needed for a stock car but we already knew you're not one to let facts get in the way.........

[getouth]

^ Simmer down.....one team one fight. lol

[Kershaw]

I run a cam gear that is +360 degrees. Works amazing. I'll sell you one if you want.

i've got one too. i used to run it at +359 degrees, but then i bumped it that extra degree and gained a lot of horsepower. im so glad i did.

works great. +1 for fully adjustable cam gear.

[cabriodster87]

Search: FQS (fuel quality switch) for info. I have been reading allot about this lately. Some have even tried to mess with the air flow meter spring. I haven't tried any thing at this point. With hedders less restrictive exhaust and CAI, #2 setting seems interesting if at all possible.


Taken from internet:
The switch in question is light or dark blue (depending on year of
manufacture) and to reach it you must open up the MCU and unfold the 2
boards in there. One of the boards has this on one of the sides. It is
cylindrical and about 1/2'' in length. From the stock setting which is
with the notch straight up, it can only be turned clockwise to achieve 6
additional settings which are listed below.

1) Stock
2) 3% increase in injector open time, no timing change
3) 3% decrease in injector open time, no timing change
4) 6% increase in injector open time, no timing change
5) 3% increase in injector open time, 2.78 degrees retard
6) 3% decrease in injector open time, 2.78 degrees retard
7) 6% increase in injector open time, 2.78 degrees retard

Edit: The only way I will find out is to go in and investigate

[brody]

When people say they were dissatisfied with the performance a software based product from a leading tuner like us, comforti, Dinan etc, they usually have problems with their car and most common is the TPS being the root cause. If it is not triggering WOT you will never get the full affects of the software.

The M20, 90% of the time has a bad TPS, ask us how we know.

[acolella76]

The M20, 90% of the time has a bad TPS, ask us how we know.

That is kind of a bold claim. Any reasoning behind this?

[LJ851]

That is kind of a bold claim. Any reasoning behind this?

It's in a nasty spot on a M20 and gets contaminated.

[brody]

That is kind of a bold claim. Any reasoning behind this?

Most cars havent had it replaced in years, most owners don't think to check it since you can't really tell if it's bad without checking it with an ohm meter or tuning it. Because most people don't do either they are almost always bad on the cars that come in to our shop. At least three times a week we get a call, I'm adjusting WOT on the WAR chip and nothing happens. It's because the TPS is not triggering WOT or doing so inconsistently.

The TPS being on the under side of the TB makes it annoying to service/check and a great place for oil and grime to build up. Because of this and the age of the cars it is more than likely to be faulty.

[jlevie]

The most common cause of failure of the TPS is oil contamination. Before I install a TPS I drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the boss on the bottom of the TPS to give the inevitable oil an escape path.

[bowtie2bimmer]

I like the argument about buying a product from a manufacturer that provides a dyno graph. It is in their best interest to make those numbers look as good as possible.

Now i'm not a car tuner but I have worked in the powersports (motorcycle, atv, etc) industry for years and done plenty of tuning myself.

First I've seen manufacturers do their first pull on an engine in need of a tune up, or cold (results in lower #)... That way when its freshly tuned up and warm the gap is larger.

Also Dynos have multiple different ways of calculating hp. Changing this formula will change the hp outcome. Thats why numbers change dyno to dyno because it depends on what that shop is running. You can also run it as one formula then switch it to one that makes the numbers look better and do the second run. Once again creating a larger gap.

I trust numbers I see on the dyno and other consumers... Not what the manufacturer says it'll do.

[nando]

between brands can vary wildy - but for example, dynojets are pretty consistent between themselves, and you can't really change their calibration settings (SAE is always SAE).

but yeah, I'd much rather see independent testing than plots for the manufacturers. they'll often add other mods, like intakes/exhaust with software, and then say "look what out software can do"..

[bowtie2bimmer]

we used dynojet in all my shops. And in the program you can adjust how the hp number was calculated. Of course dynojet to dynojet with the same formula should be accurate (adusted for temp, barometric pressure etc), but manufacturers will switch formulas to make it look better for them...

[nando]

yes you can change the correction used (SAE, none, etc), but it doesn't really change the output very much. the raw # is usually higher (noisier); SAE will smooth and reduce it.

It should say in the dyno graph which correction they used. I suppose if they hid it then it wouldn't be trustworthy. There's all sorts of ways to inflate dyno #s which is really the problem with trusting manufacturers..

[LJ851]

^My favorite trick is the cool down run.

[bowtie2bimmer]

It should say in the dyno graph which correction they used. I suppose if they hid it then it wouldn't be trustworthy. There's all sorts of ways to inflate dyno #s which is really the problem with trusting manufacturers..

True that.

That being said all my dynos hare motorcycle dynos so a jump of a couple hp is a big difference...