Swapped 325e to i no crank

[Alpine 7even]

did you plug in the 3 wire connector that comes off the old eta wire harness? its like black green and white or something like that, in a off-white 3-pin molex connector.

Derek
DedericMS

Where does it plug into if you have an 89 I harness?

[Jahman093]

Hey do any of you happen to have a picture of the wiring at the battery junction box thing on the passenger side? I am double checking all of my wiring and couldnt find a picture on google.

[Jahman093]

Hey guys Im using my wires off of my eta engine and they dont have the cid sensor connected. Would this cause a no spark issue?

[squidmaster]

yeah you have to swap harness afaik

[Jahman093]

Im not talking about the harness but the spark plug wires. For the 325i wires it comes with the cid sensor attached to the 6th wire and as of now i am using my spark plug wires off of my eta, which doesnt have the cid sensor coming off the 6th wire.

[Gary Horneck]

You need the sensor wire from the i, or its a no go.

[squidmaster]

oh yeah you need the plug wires as well

[jlevie]

Im not talking about the harness but the spark plug wires. For the 325i wires it comes with the cid sensor attached to the 6th wire and as of now i am using my spark plug wires off of my eta, which doesnt have the cid sensor coming off the 6th wire.

The engine will run without that sensor, though performance and fuel economy will suffer.

[Jahman093]

Okay I hooked up my i wires and still no spark. Im getting 12v at coil and 12v through the coil wire but nothing after that. The cap and rotor are brand new. I have read about the fusible link in the trunk causing a no spark, but I get 12v on that wire where it hooks up at the battery junction box. Could that fuse still be blown and get 12v at the front? Is there anything the ecu needs to know to send a spark?

[jlevie]

The DME has to see timing data from a rotating engine to produce spark. You might have the CPS & Cylinder ID connectors swapped.

[Jahman093]

alright. I know Ive checked that but i will check again.

okay tried that still nothing.

[Jahman093]

bump

[jlevie]

For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

Power on DME pins:
27 Start Input
18 Un-switched Power input
37 Power Input from Main Relay

Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
injectors is controlled by the main relay. Injector firing is best checked
with a noid light.

The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
11.

The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the two wires
that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
DME.

Troubleshooting:

Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
pump relay 85.

Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the
relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
following checks:

1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
86 & 30.

2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
injectors and fuel pump relay.

3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
14, 19, 24).

4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

IMPORTANT:

A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
you measure across the battery terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
charged battery.

A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

A good quality auto-ranging digital multimeter will make these tests much
easier.

[Jahman093]

2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
pump relay 85.

Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the
relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
following checks:

1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
86 & 30.

2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
injectors and fuel pump relay.

3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
14, 19, 24).

4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

all this checks out.

1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
DME pin 1.

this checks out as well except this part-(Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.)I do not get an open circuit reading from the multimeter. what could cause this?

[Jahman093]

anyone?