Everyone's Favorite Subject (Oil)

[Joseph~]

More Information for Your reading pleasure

15 Tech Briefs on ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate)

http://zddplus.com/about-us/tech-briefs/

As posted in other online copy;

The U.S. Government recommended that ZDDP no longer be put into domestic motor oils starting in 1989, so today's motor oils will not provide the ZDDP additive your older engine needs...unless you add a ZDDP Oil Additive to your oil!

Regards

Joseph

[LowR3V'in]

thanks these old m20s have all the cam lobes worn down from modern low zddp oils (since 89)
diesel oils and zddp additives should be used no doubt maybe some lucas to stabilize it.
again, you're posting from ads, might as well post how milk makes you strong and live to be 120
post a direct link from a milk producers website.

regards joseph.

[dnguyen1963]

He is new to the forum...

Joseph - This topic has been discussed to death.

[Joseph~]

thanks these old m20s have all the cam lobes worn down from modern low zddp oils (since 89)
diesel oils and zddp additives should be used no doubt maybe some lucas to stabilize it.again, you're posting from ads, might as well post how milk makes you strong and live to be 120 post a direct link from a milk producers website.

regards joseph.

"We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid."

~ Benjamin Franklin

[indecline]

To the people using 0W-40... What benefits have your experienced from using "thin" oil?

[e30conv2]

Torco TR1R 20W50W Conventional
Liqui Moly MS2 Antifriction 10W40W Semi Sythetic

[mtnbimmer]

To the people using 0W-40... What benefits have your experienced from using "thin" oil?

It's not a "thin" oil. The 40wt. provides plenty of protection. The 0W rating is applicable to me for the cold weather starts.

[EatsHondas]

I don't understand why so many people run 20w50 and thicker. It is just not necessary, that shit is like maple syrup. Cold starts are harder, and you're theoretically making the motor work harder by having to slosh its way through it.

As far as the "quiets valves" point: when my motor still had the factory ~180k head on it, she was tired and it showed. Plenty of oil on the spark plug threads and uncomfortably loud valve tap even after an adjustment. I was running 10w30 at the time because the Bentley says it's fine as long as the ambient temps in your climate match the chart. Switching to 20w50 Pennzoil conventional (yellow bottle) made no difference in noise and cranked over noticeably slower when cold.

I have stepped down to 10w40 (same brand) just to compare, and the cranking definitely sounds more healthy and less strained. I'll probably run that for a good long while.

TLDR: I have the experience to believe 20w50 is too thick for street M20's. It's not an effective band-aid for oil leaks and a worn valvetrain.

[MR 325]

I don't understand why so many people run 20w50 and thicker. It is just not necessary, that shit is like maple syrup..

Because the M20 engine calls for that oil from the factory in warm climates.

[dnguyen1963]

15W40 is good down to 15F. When the temp falls below that it is hard to start the engine. For those of us in the cold climate, we just install an electric oil warmer.

[digger]

Because the M20 engine calls for that oil from the factory in warm climates.

screw the 30yr old manual and 30yr old oils.

[redlightpete]

Heavier grades sometimes have different formulations, including higher levels of zddp. This is beneficial for m20 valvetrains.

[Lugnuts]

screw the 30yr old manual and 30yr old oils.

+1

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Oil#Which_Oil

[MR 325]

Either way I'll stick with 20w50 here in Southern California.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Just switched out my summer oil for some 10w40 for the winter time.