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Das Beast: My E30 track / street build

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    Original piston assembly weight 256.4g



    New piston assembly weight 200.7g. Looks like we're saving about 0.75 lb on the rotating mass.



    Rod bearing shells are the right size. Unlike the 1st build :-)



    We dorked around forever installing the first set of rod pin clips. You know the drill: sore thumbs, clips flying across the room, crawling around the floor looking for lost clips. So, we made a tool that does it in 10 seconds.

    Get a thin wall tube about 0.85" in diameter
    Cut it off about 4" long
    Get a solid plunger that fits inside the tube
    Insert ring in tube a shown



    Insert wrist pin temporarily. It gives the clip a surface to push against.



    Put tube perpendicular to piston with gap up



    Insert plunger. Press down with smooth firm motion. Ring will click when it seats



    Voila



    Slightly remove pin. Insert rod. Repeat on opposite side.



    More next time
    Last edited by dvallis; 04-25-2021, 03:33 PM.
    "And then we broke the car. Again." Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"

    1987 E30 3L Turbo Stroker Das Beast
    2002 E39 M5

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      Keep 'em coming!

      Comment


        Lord Of the Rings

        Feeler gauges organized. I hate dicking around with all of them on a key ring.



        Insert ring



        Seat with handy ring tool



        Check the gap



        Grind, just a bit. Drill turns toward INSIDE of ring



        Measure again. Repeat until within spec. We used 0.022" for the 2nd ring per Total Seal.



        Ring set installed on piston. Tops are "gapless" which is really two rings with big gaps, but they overlap and interlock. 2nd ring seated correctly with notch inside and down. Bottom is a 3 ring sandwich.



        Ubiquitous blue tape holds clocked rings in place.



        Repeat 6 times. Done.




        "And then we broke the car. Again." Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"

        1987 E30 3L Turbo Stroker Das Beast
        2002 E39 M5

        Comment


          Love the 3d printed ring tool.

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            Heliwhat?

            Did some prep on the bottom end. Block threads for the oil pan bolts got a good cleaning out (gunk removal) and checked with an m6x1 tap. Two of the damn holes in those aluminum bearing carriers front and back were wonky. Par for the course on M20s I suspose.

            Bolts in photo are just to keep dirt out. M6x25 are too long and will bottom out. We've got a new set of M6x20 on the way. Will give max thread with our crank scraper plus oil pan stack.



            Decided to helicoil them both



            Drill out the hole. Screw in helicoil. Knock out the tang & extract from hole. Both hold torque now.


            "And then we broke the car. Again." Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"

            1987 E30 3L Turbo Stroker Das Beast
            2002 E39 M5

            Comment


              Nice printed tool!

              I made a similar thing using scrap plastic on a lathe at work. I'm stoked to try it out some day
              sigpic
              1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
              1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
              1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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                Timing Is Everything

                Finally got down to business building the bottom end, now that all the prep work is done. Today we're checking valve clearance.

                All the parts ready to go. Black timing belt has one extra tooth. We had issues with belt tension so I bought it to try.



                All parts get generously coated with assembly lube..



                This ring compression tool is SO much better than "juice can with giant clamp". Highly recommended.



                Add rod cap and light torque. Repeat six times.



                Add 1/16" clay worms to valve pockets, set bottom end timing so piston 1 is at top, install old head studs and spare gasket



                Torque down head. 25 ft-lbs on all bolts per ARP pattern, then 50. This is only for clearance so no need to go to 75 ft-lbs



                Install all the running gear on the front of the block. Careful not to jack the seals or lose the tiny springs inside them.



                Before timing belt install.



                Timing belt installed easily. Tension is perfect.. I'm sure the previous issue was our 0.120" head gasket had the head separated from the block by just a bit too much. Caused huge tension issues. This build uses custom JE pistons machined for a stock 0.070" head gasket but with 10:1 CR and much deeper valve pockets. We're running a 284/272 cam and apparently the pockets can handle an even bigger one.



                Moment of truth. Turn the crank clockwise 4 times, back to TDC. Remove flywheel, covers, timing belt and head.

                All of our 1/16" worms were undisturbed. So we've got at least .0625" clearance in all valve pockets. Success!!

                Do I want to add more clay and see exactly HOW much clearance? No, it's enough and I didn't want to stress the valves with a bunch of clay.



                Called it a day and planned for the next session. I need a couple of random gaskets.

                "And then we broke the car. Again." Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"

                1987 E30 3L Turbo Stroker Das Beast
                2002 E39 M5

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                  Too late now, but could have run the clay over the squish band to measure piston to head clearance while at it :/
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                    Not too late. Just gotta do it all again. : - )
                    "And then we broke the car. Again." Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"

                    1987 E30 3L Turbo Stroker Das Beast
                    2002 E39 M5

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