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Das Beast: My E30 track / street build

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  • dvallis
    replied
    Woah Dub. So much information in one post. :-)

    I'm on pump gas 93. It's just simpler logistics rather than hauling around race fuel. Will pull the rpm psi data next time I'm at the shop.

    What exact clutch and flywheel did you use in that 765 clutch setup? I almost went that way but could not find the known good recipe for M20 + G260. Stack height varies and I didn't have enough parts to experiment.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    STD is the program default in WinPep (Dyno software). Personally use the Dyno as a tool for progression, not to state exactly how much power, so I often forget to change the correction factor when on the rollers, and just make the adjustment when reading the file back, it posting etc. Probably the same for his local tuner.

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  • SLEEPYDUB
    replied
    Nice build man. I just came across this thread bc the bird man posted up your dyno and your build is farily similar to mine (6266 T3 0.81ar, 2.7/885 with 280/274, stock gasket, arp, MS3 Pro Evo full sequential, etc).
    I use a Sach 765 PP and a ceramic 6 puck that works well for reference, but looks like you got that figured out. I went through a few 228mm clutchs with no luck till i swapped to the 240mm setup. Will be going twin disk ceramic next.
    As for you 0.58T4 turbine housing, I used to run one of those on my VR6. It was instant boost. I mean crazy power anytime you step on the gas, almost too much. I didn't like the way the power fell off in the top end with that housing, so I switch to a 1.06AR and even though it was a punch in the face when it came on, I enjoyed it more. But, different goals for different folks. If you're looking for instant power in any gear at any rpm, then thats the one for you. You can expect to lose some power though on the same boost levels. I don't know how i'd feel about that housing with that cam, but I am super interested in seeing your results because I have considered the 0.58 for my M20 when I swap to a T4 housing (have a 0.81ar T4 housing ready to go from my 2JZ).
    As for your idle, you could try cracking the throttle plate a bit more because you said it sounded like it needed more air. And then use timing to create a valley and control the idle rpm.

    Are you on 93 or Ethanol? Judging by your ignition map, id assume pump gas?
    Why did you dyno tuner use the STD correction of the more widely accepted SAE?
    I'd like to see your final timing map to see if he used a timing valley at peak torque or not if you can provide it?
    What rpm are you seeing 10psi at?
    What rpm are you seeing 19psi at?

    Thanks! Great build!

    Leave a comment:


  • dvallis
    replied
    More Lower ...

    ... is what my Karate teacher used to yell before whacking us with a bamboo shinai. Das Beast needs more lower.

    I dialed the suspension back down from F150 height and carefully backed out the driveway. Nope. Not gonna do it.



    Quick trip to Lowes for material and we're back in business.







    Finally getting a good look at the ride height. We put off doing the rear valence until we figured out the diffuser situation. Going to start looking at that again.



    Just for fun, here's the before picture



    Drove around some more and got the clock up to 225 miles. I couldn't resist and did one WOT 4th gear roll-on. I was shifting early, but still had to lift from WOT in 5th. Going waaayyyy to fast, even for the deserted country road I was on. Back to Driving Miss Daisy for another couple of hundred miles.

    Last edited by dvallis; 03-16-2020, 07:44 AM.

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  • zaq123
    replied
    post some videos

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  • dvallis
    replied
    For the five minutes it takes to warm up, my foot can be the Idle Control Valve. :-)

    200 miles on the clutch. Tried a couple of 10 psi 4th gear pulls and didn't slip. Will put another 100 miles on and try 19 psi.

    Dual electric fans and big double pass radiator are working out great. Cooling system keeps it at 190F, even in stop and go traffic. Creeps up to 200F if you hit it hard then have to idle at a long light, but comes back down to 190F with 50 mph airflow.

    Ghetto alignment is doing fine so far. Will do a proper string box alignment once we drop the suspension back down from this F150 height and put the diffuser back on.
    Last edited by dvallis; 03-13-2020, 10:25 AM. Reason: Typo

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Post your fuel table as well. When you start it up next time try and make a mental note of what range (as in what X-Y area) of the fuel map it oscillates through when it's cold, and where it settles in when it's warm.

    It's possible that variance in timing and fuel values around the idle area are causing the oscillation. Usually you want that area of the timing and fuel maps to be nearly completely flat. Or for timing, just use the idle advance setting, that's what I do.

    I didn't realize you don't have an ICV. Usually you step down the ICV from more open to less open during warmup as well, so that may play a part of this. I would think it could be worked around, though.

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  • zwill23
    replied
    Now that you've reverted to the stock intake manifold it might be worth adding the stock ICV back

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  • dvallis
    replied
    It has a wide oscillation at idle when cold. Using open loop idle. Closed loop idle requires an ICV, which I don't have. Will post my idle tables later today.

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    What exactly is it doing at idle when it's cold? Is it oscillating a lot? Do you have open or closed loop idle? Post up your tables as well or even post your .msq file if you can, I'll take a look through it.

    varg tuned my car, but I have since spent a lot of time tinkering with my idle getting it from 95% to 100%. With a cam and lightweight flywheel, my idle had some idiosyncrasies to work on, especially when the car is fully heat soaked after a track session (that weren't easy to replicate on the street).
    Last edited by Digitalwave; 03-06-2020, 09:27 AM.

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  • dvallis
    replied
    Worked on cold start idle a bit today. ASE and WUE are both enabled. Engine idles great warm at 900 rpm but hates cold start. Doesn't matter how much ASE or WUE I add. However, a very light press on the throttle for about 3 minutes cold and it idles fine. Seems to want more air, not more fuel. Tried enabling idle advance, adding advance under rpm target and taking it out above. Didn't help either. Not done with this, but not a show stopper either.

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  • dvallis
    replied
    Originally posted by rjmcdermott81 View Post
    A neighbor sent me a video of some crazy e30 in our neighborhood. Do you live near Allandale by chance?
    That's definitely me. Great pic. :- ) I've been driving all over town putting miles on the clutch. I just drive randomly without a GPS for the fun of seeing Austin. I've lived here 20+ years but it's amazing the roads you find by just wandering.

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  • rjmcdermott81
    replied
    A neighbor sent me a video of some crazy e30 in our neighborhood. Do you live near Allandale by chance?

    Leave a comment:


  • dvallis
    replied
    Thanks. I'll look into that

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    I'll post my WUE and ASE tables later. There is an auto-tune function for WUE that works pretty well.

    Leave a comment:

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