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    #31
    some use hylomar on the MLS stuff
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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      #32
      Originally posted by zaq123 View Post
      I've used copper spray on cometic MLS gaskets (crush type, not coated) for big bore high compression builds on dirt bikes with great results.

      However, BMW OEM or any other oem type HG has those sealing lines (Viton??) that don't do well with Acetone. Permeatex Copper Spray can have up to 40% of Acetone in it. Viton is no no with ketones . I believe MLS Cometic for M20 is Viton coated as well....

      PS. some links




      https://www.winzerusa.com/ecat/docs/...lity_VITON.pdf
      Damm! I put copper spray on my OEM HG. I hope it doesn't blow it out

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        #33
        Which begs the question of what exactly is the stuff on the gaskets
        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
        Alice the Time Capsule
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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          #34
          Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
          Which begs the question of what exactly is the stuff on the gaskets
          Well the guy that told me to use the copper spray is VERY reputable and has done a ton of high performance M20 engines. So I'm pretty sure if it was bad he woudn't be putting it on, especially on those high $ builds.

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            #35
            I wouldn't worry about it if you have no leaks to date. Acetote is long gone after you ran it. I wish all these products specify more in their instructions as far as do and don't.....brake cleaner for example....lots of ppl use it to clean calipers without realizing it kills seals etc in the process. Same goes for throttle body cleaners etc... Sometimes good old water and soap (simple green for example) does wonders on these things wiylthout hurting any sealing components...
            Last edited by zaq123; 10-09-2016, 05:44 PM.

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              #36
              Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
              John,

              Out of the many I've had hands on, I've noticed that there seem to be batch variations. I had two Elrings at one point that were bought a few years apart and were completely different (they were both still sealed in original packaging. There have also been instances where I ordered just the head gasket and then the kit from the same brand, only to find differing HG's inside.

              Had some pictures I will post on Monday that directly refute some of what was on e30tech

              Elring went downhill. About 8 yrs ago, they were much nicer, but now they look just like the VR. The reason the HG by themselves are the new style is because of inventory, people buy more single gaskets than they do kits. Interested in your pics, location can have lot to do with it, I know I often buy out the stock at the local suppliers and they have to transport from other warehouses. Anymore we buy the kits and just don't use the head gasket, so I have a pile of junk gaskets that we use for checking valve to piston and quench clearances.
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                #37
                Well finally got time to get the motor apart. Still need to take the timing belt and head off.
                Hopefully I can get the spare head together but I'm having a bitch of a time getting the carbon off the Ex. Valves.
                I've tried ATF, wire wheel, marvels mystery oil and sea foam but nothing works. Wish I had a blast cabinet lol.

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                  #38
                  Wire wheel takes seconds. Cleaning them usually isn't enough, there's usually pits in the seat surface and will have to be reconditioned. Best to do the seats and replace/line the guides while in there, exhaust guides are usually out of tolerance.
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                  Comment


                    #39
                    wire wheel on a die grinder has worked for me for years but not this time haha. Brought out my angle grinder with wire cup and it's still a PITA but its getting it done slowly.
                    Valve seats look really good, already lapped the intake valves...no putting and good pattern. Well see what happens with the exhaust side.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Supratreo View Post
                      wire wheel on a die grinder has worked for me for years but not this time haha. Brought out my angle grinder with wire cup and it's still a PITA but its getting it done slowly.
                      Valve seats look really good, already lapped the intake valves...no putting and good pattern. Well see what happens with the exhaust side.
                      I wouldn't blast the head with anything. Will look good but good luck making sure all blast media is out of it. Just hot tank it. Wouldn't lap it eather. You are going to spend 100s on belts, pump, gaskets etc.....why not to spend 400-600 and have a pro clean the head, cut seats, surface the head, check valve height etc. My 2c

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                        #41
                        This is a temporary motor. If the contact pattern is good there really is no reason to cut the seats. Also, I wouldn't blast the head, just the valves, I've already pressure washed the head and it's like new.

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                          #42
                          Ok so finally getting around to putting this together and is it just me or are these valve springs a total bitch haha. I'm not using a spring compressor, just the manual tool that I have used on every motor I've ever done but this is Damn near impossible.
                          Any tips or should I just go rent a compressor tomorrow?

                          Comment


                            #43
                            with a spring compressor its a cinch
                            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Cool, I figured. I'm gonna go rent one from Kragen tomorrow.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                ok.well ended up getting the tool but didn't work well so I used part of that design and a big clamp and fabbed up my own spring compressor and got it done. These were the toughest springs I've ever worked with.

                                With that done I have a couple more questions. After I install the head on the block what would be next? Meaning intake manifold or t-stat because I remember having a hard time getting the housing off with the fuelrail and manifold on but not sure if I can put the manifold on AFTER the t-stat housing.
                                Any tips for reassembly would be appreciated.
                                Thanks

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