Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

[r-mm]

I noticed the throwout bearing that came with my sachs clutch kit all of which is made in Germany is composite with some stamped components where as the original which is stamped BMW is all metal cast or forged. I also noticed that the FTE made in Germany slave cylinder I received his composite. Is this the way things are going?

[r-mm]

How did you all go about driving the rear main seal down 1 to 2 mm from the surface of the carrier in an even fashion?




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[zaq123]

How did you all go about driving the rear main seal down 1 to 2 mm from the surface of the carrier in an even fashion?

[ATTACH]127231[/ATTACH]


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you have to get something of the large diameter. I personally prefer to get this seal and seal carrier as a unit. Not much more $$ than a quality seal and limits a possibility of the installation mistake. You do not want to do this job again soon.

[r-mm]

Is there an intended relationship between the head bolts washers and what I presume are oiling holes? To a limited degree there is some ability to bias the washers one way or the other

[r-mm]

Does anyone have a description of how hard it should be to slip the timing belt over the tensioner (which i understand is the final thing its slipped over)? Like, all the strength in your arms and it barely makes it? Or walk in the park?

Other thing im struggling with is how much slack is there bt intermed sprocket and cam sprocket? Muscle the hell out of it to go one tooth further and get it hella taut or take her easy, decent amt of slack.


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[digger]

no those oil holes are nolonger important when the shaft is installed as they are isolated

[digger]

Does anyone have a description of how hard it should be to slip the timing belt over the tensioner (which i understand is the final thing its slipped over)? Like, all the strength in your arms and it barely makes it? Or walk in the park?

Other thing im struggling with is how much slack is there bt intermed sprocket and cam sprocket? Muscle the hell out of it to go one tooth further and get it hella taut or take her easy, decent amt of slack.


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lock the tensioner in place fully retracted, the the last thing is to slide over the cam gear so start at crank then pull tension on it over the tensioner then start on the RHS of the cam gear. to get it over the cam gear just get it started but only on a few mm of the edge. once you have a few mm of the entire cam gear then sliding it back fully is easy. then release the tensioner so the spring tensions the belt

[r-mm]

Thanks I found that I needed to loosen the slack on the water pump in order to get the tensioner fully slacked I also found that I needed to advance the cam gear slightly in order to get the belt to seat but then once tension was applied the marks lined up perfectly through several revolutions.

Does it matter which TDC you time the motor to?

In other words - The cam sprocket completes one revolution (and points to its marker) for every two revolutions of the crank. Does it matter which revolution of the crank you use?


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[digger]

No, set the head to tdc and the crank to tdc and install belt. Rotate 1 crank rev and the head is 180 "out" rotate another crank rev and it's back inline at the head.

[r-mm]

Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

I believe we are saying the same thing two ways. The crank shows TDC twice at the vibration damper for every one time the cam shows TDC. I am confirming that there is not a single correct crank to cam TDC relationship and that either pair works the same provided the marks line up.

[digger]

Yes the lines match up every second rev

[zaq123]

No, set the head to tdc and the crank to tdc and install belt. Rotate 1 crank rev and the head is 180 "out" rotate another crank rev and it's back inline at the head.

Make sure you are setting this before the head is installed. Don’t rotate cam/crank independently


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[ForcedFirebird]

Make sure you are setting this before the head is installed. Don’t rotate cam/crank independently


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I do that all the time :P


If you rotate the crank 20° past TDC, then all the pistons are down far enough that none can possibly hit the pistons. When doing a cam seal while doing a timing belt job, I always rotate the crank to avoid any possible problems.

[zaq123]

I do that all the time :P


If you rotate the crank 20° past TDC, then all the pistons are down far enough that none can possibly hit the pistons. When doing a cam seal while doing a timing belt job, I always rotate the crank to avoid any possible problems.

You are doing this for a living, not sure how many of this OP did...my guess is none judging by his question. Just would hate to see another “did I bent my valves” post


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[ForcedFirebird]

You are doing this for a living, not sure how many of this OP did...my guess is none judging by his question. Just would hate to see another “did I bent my valves” post


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Actually learnt the trick on my 78 Datsun truck 4cyl back when I started wrenching as a hobby in the early 90's, but it works on any inline config.


It takes a good amount of force to bend the valves when turning an engine by hand, actually, one would almost need a breaker bar or long handle ratchet.