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    Two 1 pin white connectors (brown and red wires) is your glove box light.

    Flat 3 pin mini-spade connector, green is OBC drive away protection (ignition coil power lead), black is tech (which went through c101 on later cars), yellow is fuel economy gauge. If you want the fuel and tach to work, you will need to splice those wires into the harness bundle, or run wires to the c101.

    The two black/white roundish plug 3 pin connectors that are clipped together are obsolete in the case of a swap.

    One final thing to check is pin #20 in the c101 connector. If the chassis side is open, any engine harness can go in your chassis, peel the rubber boot off the back to see wires and if you have brown on one side and a color on the other, you will need to pull one side as early cars u8sed that for a ground, then some years it's missing, others it's a power. If yours mismatches and you turn the key, the body harness will start melting under your steering column.
    john@m20guru.com
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      Again, I did not have to splice those 2 wires (or any for that matter) to get my tach and fuel gauges to work. I wish I could confirm the donor year for my harness but obviously there's an exception to the splicing requirement. I do not have a separate injector harness if that helps narrow it down.
      Deck Lid and soft top Shocks on hand

      Seat shocks on hand for immediate shipment
      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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        Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
        Again, I did not have to splice those 2 wires (or any for that matter) to get my tach and fuel gauges to work. I wish I could confirm the donor year for my harness but obviously there's an exception to the splicing requirement. I do not have a separate injector harness if that helps narrow it down.
        1987-only 325i (non-vert) donor engine harness would be a direct plug and play (edit: PnP on late 84 and up cars, earlier ones had the square c101) - that was the first year US got the 325i and the harness carried over. In 1988 when the coolant expansion tank moved etc, the engine harnesses changed. With your harness having the intergrated injector plugs, I would gather it's an 87 harness. The vert models are a little screwy since the chassis were sent out to be converted and were always a "year older" than the others. That's why you could get a 1992 vert in the e30 platform, but the e36 was a 2 and 4 doors - also why the verts kept the metal bumpers longer etc.
        Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 08-08-2019, 09:58 AM.
        john@m20guru.com
        Links:
        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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          There you have it

          thanks John
          Deck Lid and soft top Shocks on hand

          Seat shocks on hand for immediate shipment
          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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            Ive got a 1221 code which I believe to be caused by the 19lb 4 pintle injectors and a stock 525 ecu (since everythjing else is new). Is that something the ecu will learn or should I be thinking chip ?
            Deck Lid and soft top Shocks on hand

            Seat shocks on hand for immediate shipment
            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
            Alice the Time Capsule
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
            87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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              Could be. 1221 is for oxygen sensor out of range, or relay fault. Might go away once the ECU trims the fuel, but honestly there's no reason to use 19lb - specially with ca stock chip. I've been able to get 180+whp with the stock 14lb injectors and FPR...
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                I picked up the fresh 19s when I was gathering parts and planned to throw in a chip once I got her sorted. Ive been idling quite a bit while working on the AC so suspect that may have triggered the 1221. Does the code clear itself after x amount of time or do I need to reset the ecu and see if it comes back ?
                Deck Lid and soft top Shocks on hand

                Seat shocks on hand for immediate shipment
                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                  The M1.3 actually has a memory that uses LTFT, so don't disconnect power to it or it will run worse until the ECU re-learns that it has way oversized injectors.

                  In the interim, you could always use the ETA 2.5 bar fuel regulator. That will bring the effective fuel delivery down to 17lb - closer to stock, and will make the ECU much happier. Right now it's trying to correct 26% of injector difference, the 2.5bar regulator will bring that closer to ~17%.
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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