My 2.7i Build

[Jordan325iC]

if it's already got it, you don't have to worry too much.

you can pre-prime the oil pump pretty easily on an M20. There's a little round aluminum plug with a BMW logo on it near the intermediate shaft. If you remove this you will find a shaft, a couple plastic washers, and a gear - remove them, and using a long hex extension (they make them specifically for priming oil pumps, but you can probably rig something up), turn the oil pump with a heavy duty drill (clockwise) to build pressure & fill the oil filter. You can turn on the ignition (but don't start) and wait for the oil light to go out. after that, put it back together and start it up. :)

hope that makes sense!

Haha, kinda. I'm actually building the engine completely out of the car and then dropping it in as one piece, so I don't know if I'll be going that route. My engine builder just suggested cranking the car with no spark before I start it, so I'll probably go that route.

[nando]

you're better off priming the pump, then you never have moving parts with no oil on them.

if you already have it out of the car, it should be even easier to prime it since you can more easily get that cover off.

[kenika65]

When are you planning on actually putting it in?

I have an oil pump shaft so Ill drop buy and prime the motor before you drop it in.

Also I am moving in to austin on the 1st!

[Jordan325iC]

Got the head back.



Had the thing resurfaced and installed a new camshaft and rocker arms. $120 for the resurface and head assembly, $189 for the camshaft (azautohaus.com) and $160 for the rocker arms

Head installed:



Spring loaded tube-o-death w/ new o-rings installed via tiny zip ties. Gives the intake plenty of room to slide on.




Painted my intake manifold, turned out pretty good:


John Volk 666 fab adapter w/ Holset H1C 16cm turbo, "tial" wastegate.


Found individual gaskets for the manifold so I won't have those enormous spark plug protectors looking ghetto and hitting the turbo anymore. I think they were $3 a piece from azautohaus.com.



The oil cooler setup:


How it sits now:



I dropped the flywheel off at the machine shop today, so once I get that back in a day or two I'll bolt the tranny up and drop the engine in. Hopefully by Thursday.

[SpecM]

looks great! I love the orange block!

[Jordan325iC]

looks great! I love the orange block!

It's red damnit! :)

[SpecM]

It's red damnit! :)

ok ok its red

my bad

[TopOfTheLine89]

Looks great, gonna be mega squirted?

[Jordan325iC]

Looks great, gonna be mega squirted?

Not for a while. I'm taking baby steps here.

[Jordan325iC]

Well, got her in finally:


She's cranking over, but not catching. I can smell fuel, but I really haven't done any troubleshooting yet. However, I did come across one connection that I can't figure out:

I meticulously labled everything I disconnected, except somehow this little guy escaped. I have no idea where that goes to. Just for reference that is the oil dipstick tube at the top of the picture, and you're looking at the driver's side of the block. It comes out of the main wiring harness near the thermostat. It's not AFM, TPS or ICV. Any ideas?

[E30Idea]

Looking good.
If your not running MS than what are you doing for an EMS?

[SpecM]

maybe its the EVAP purve valve harness?

does it reach to just underneth the TB?

[Jordan325iC]

maybe its the EVAP purve valve harness?

does it reach to just underneth the TB?

Ah, good idea. But it's not that.

[SpecM]

Ah, good idea. But it's not that.

OK... CPS or oil level?

I'm just shooting from the hip

[Jordan325iC]

OK... CPS or oil level?

I'm just shooting from the hip

OIL LEVEL, that's right! The oil level sensor connector is fubar and I'm waiting for another one to come in. Thanks for making me remember.

Unfortunately that isn't the magic bullet for why the car won't run. I'll do some more troubleshooting on Wed.