If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
project, what did you do for a shift arm and selector rod?
im assuming you used the m30 g260.
Yes I'm using the M30 g260 and it came with the rod and arm. I did not do any modifications but the guibo rubs very slightly on the rod. It only does this in the area where the bolts go through the guibo. Don't know if the short shift lever has anything to do with it.
Yes I'm using the M30 g260 and it came with the rod and arm. I did not do any modifications but the guibo rubs very slightly on the rod. It only does this in the area where the bolts go through the guibo. Don't know if the short shift lever has anything to do with it.
What do you plan to do with yours?
i want to run a uuc dssr badly. but if it wont wok then i'll bend the rod slightly in a vice.
Im using a z3 2.8 shift lever... I slightly rub when im in third gear. Very slightly.., you can see a little rub on the guibo but not much. It ended up wearing down to where it doesnt rub anymore. Everything is fine now. I shortened my shiftrod, measured the rod then cut out what I didnt need and mig welded it or wirefeed welded it what ever its called... To make sure it all lined up I drilled two holes in a peice of wood so I can put each side of the rod in the holes and then weld it. Know what i mean lol. Drunkin instructions...pm me tomarrow and get the sober instructions.
I guess you could bend the rod slightly to make it not rub at all...! On my car it only rubs slightly and I figure it will only rub so long till it doesnt have anymore to rub.
i want to run a uuc dssr badly. but if it wont wok then i'll bend the rod slightly in a vice.
If you can determine exactly what length selector rod would be required, measuring precisely from pin-center to pin-center, we may have an alternate fitting that would work.
Originally I was going to use the early year tank but the location I found was below the top radiator hose. After a few days of fiddling I finally was able to come up with a way to secure the later years coolant tank but it took a lot of work to get it secured in that location.
I modified the bracket where the air filter was located.
Then had to fabricate some L brackets and a flat one.
After some painting I bolted the tank. I'm not 100% happy how it looks but it will do for now.
Using a 3/4 T fitting I got the heater and overflow hoses ready.
Here is the end product. Only the lower radiator hose needs to be modified.
Nice! I used the front piece of the e32 heater hose with the rear section (including the t) of the late model e30 325i spider hose. The factory bracket that goes on the driver side fender to hold the late model expansion tank is only $5 from a dealer believe it or not, so I picked one up and mounted it to the fender.
Nice! I used the front piece of the e32 heater hose with the rear section (including the t) of the late model e30 325i spider hose. The factory bracket that goes on the driver side fender to hold the late model expansion tank is only $5 from a dealer believe it or not, so I picked one up and mounted it to the fender.
Q: are you using coolant hoses for your PS?
I didn't know you could purchase the bracket. Do you have to weld it in?
Yep those are coolant hoses. That is what the local auto part store gave me when I asked for hoses for power steering. Would I run into issues?
About how long did you leave the downpipes before cutting them? They come with an insulator I'm sure you removed it, right? Any other pointers. I'm using the 325i exhaust.
Comment