Another E30 M30 Swap Thread, this time with an 84 318i

[the imitator]

So we didn't get nearly as much as I wished to get done, but that was mainly because we didn't have the right tools (bushing puller) and for some reason couldn't scrounge together the bits to make a DIY puller/pusher.

So we just caught stuff on fire and I spray painted things

Thanks Peterson automotive for the killer tig welding, they filled in spots and did touch up work that you wouldn't expect from even a reputable shop. Thanks garagistic for the weld in reinforcements, the only one I don't have is the e30 m3 adjustable away bar tabs.

I'll be pulling some bushings here soon and replacing them, hopefully a roller by Monday or Tuesday. I'll take pics of the rear subframe soon too, killer welding on the diff reinforcements and what not!

[marshallnoise]

Didn't have a shop press available? I bought one because it was cheaper than either paying for labor or buying a hub with bearing in it for my wife's Jetta. Already pushed out a couple of bushings with ease.

[the imitator]

Nope, didn't even have a big enough c clamp and we are out in the boonies away from general stores. No problem though, they're coming out today.

[marshallnoise]

Nope, didn't even have a big enough c clamp and we are out in the boonies away from general stores. No problem though, they're coming out today.

Kill it with fire!

[the imitator]

Made good fun.

[CorvallisBMW]

Next time:
-lower subframe past stud
-Insert large socket (36mm or so) around stud
-Press out bushing by using floor jack to lift subframe

You can get out bushings in 5 minutes this way.

[the imitator]

I can totally vision that, next time around that will be what happens.


Thanks.

Next time:
-lower subframe past stud
-Insert large socket (36mm or so) around stud
-Press out bushing by using floor jack to lift subframe

You can get out bushings in 5 minutes this way.

[Ginger_e30]

Alright, I have a question about an m30 swap. I've found a completely rebuilt m30 for 250 bucks from one of my buddies with wiring harness and ecu to drop in my e30. The only problem is if like to keep my car automatic for the time being but I have no idea what steps I need to take to complete the tranny. What do I need to get as far as auto transmission and wiring and what work will I be doing wiring wise?

[the imitator]

I'll be honest I have no clue, there's a thread under mine that has such info.

here's a link
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=262721

Alright, I have a question about an m30 swap. I've found a completely rebuilt m30 for 250 bucks from one of my buddies with wiring harness and ecu to drop in my e30. The only problem is if like to keep my car automatic for the time being but I have no idea what steps I need to take to complete the tranny. What do I need to get as far as auto transmission and wiring and what work will I be doing wiring wise?

[LowR3V'in]

As old as these cars are do you think there's an automatic vs manual dyno out there?
stock vs stock just to see how much power the autos eat up.
We all know they like to completely fail with just a touch over stock power.

[the imitator]

I dont even want an auto vs manual discussion in my thread hahaha, we can make a new thread for that.

New rtabs pressed in, and about to pull the bushings out of my control arms

[glnr13]

are you up and running yet? just curious if you kept your cluster or are you dropping in a 6cyl cluster.

nice build, sub'd.

[the imitator]

Not yet! I'm getting close, I'm about to post up pics of pressed in bushings, we should be finishing up fairly soon.

I dont know what im doing yet, I have a motometer, and VDO late model cluster, and the early model one in my car.
Not sure which one I want to use either.

[glnr13]

well at least you're stocked up with your possible solutions.

i'm running the original m10 318i cluster. gas gauge works, temp gauge only works with the m10 temp sensor, and i haven't spliced the black wire in the glove yet so no tach/econometer. to be honest i don't even know which one is the right one to cut on the car side but i'm going to toy with that this weekend and figure out a more secure way to keep the ecu locked in since right now it's just in the glove box.

[the imitator]

I'm very close to getting to such a part in my swap, I wouldn't mind running the early model style, but I also like the idea of using the late model and setting up the oil level sensor.

So I had to jimmy rig a puller for the trailing are bushings, which worked great, and the poly ones from Ireland engineering went in with little effort; They key was to press in the poly bits by hand, and then use a clamp with a washer and press the metal sleeve in, make sure to apply a lot along the metal sleeve, and the poly itself and the inside race of the trailing arm.





Also got the stock units pressed out using a 3 toothed puller, PB blaster, some cussing and a bit of beer and we had them out, the reason why they are together like that is for leverage when pressing the old suckers out.



New ones went in smooth with a tiny bit of soap and water, I pressed them in by hand and rubber mallet them in the rest of the way.