A few questions

[Doughnut]

yes, it is a 260, the 280 has the fins (i think) but the 280 is abit longer, it has another piece (about 2" spacer piece, if you will) between the rear section and the main body...

You are not getting the 260 mixed up with the G265? Which also has a spacer like plate in between the rear housing and the middle section and removable bell housing?

I've only ever seen G280's with the ribs.

[BDK]

NO, I have had several 260's, they came out in 86, my 1/86 M535i had one and my 9/85 M535i had the 265... the 260 has the fins as well as the 280....
http://www.metricmechanic.com/catalo...tion-chart.php
check out Metric Mechanics Identification page...eventhough there is a typo,
he also mentions the 44mm "spacer" or intermediate, secondary piece I was talking about on the 280....the 280 is right above "baby six list"...notice how it says 260, the second 260 listed, but in the description he says it is like a combination of the 260/265...that's suppose to be a 280 not 260 buy eitherway he mentions the cooling fins in the first 260 description....

[E30SPDFRK]

Anyone know whats up with my tensioner?

[E30SPDFRK]

I'm going to bump this until I find out.

[Brian D]

Anyone know whats up with my tensioner?

I don't have the experience with M30's yet to help you. Have you tried asking the question at www.mye28.com ?

[Funkmasta]

You are not getting the 260 mixed up with the G265? Which also has a spacer like plate in between the rear housing and the middle section and removable bell housing?

I've only ever seen G280's with the ribs.

260s have ribs on them too, not sure if all of them do, but at least 86 and newer.

[Funkmasta]

Byron, is that the correct bushing on the lower end of it? It looks like it is sticking the rail out too far...?

11311706503

[E30SPDFRK]

I didn't change the bushing, but I went out to check and the old rail was worn that way too. I suppose it is possible that someone already did a chain on it and put something in wrong. I'll go get one tomorrow and see if it is different.

[chadthestampede]

According to the guys on mye28,

If the tranny is from an '86 535i, it *should* be a 260/6 or if it was a rearry, ealry car, it could be a 265. Of course the 260s don't have removable bell housings, so to tell the difference between the two:

Get a magnifying glass. If you can barely see the transmission, it's a 260/5.

Just kidding, but it there's more truth to that than is on the surface.

The 260/5 has a waffle-like texture - should make you want a waffle - but not from Waffle House.

the 260/6, besides being noticeably longer, should have fins along the bottom, which makes you want a churro.

that's a 260/6, same as mine

[Funkmasta]

lol, I love Chris.

[E30SPDFRK]

Ok, wiring time. Specifically, what do I need to do with my chassis plugs? This is the one on my car (86 325e)

And these are the ones on my e34 535 harness



They are all females, so they don't plug into each other, and they wouldn't line up if they did. This is the one part of this swap that kind of scares me, as I have almost no idea what to do.

[flawdaboi407]

E34/E32 harness: (got it from m535i.org)
Pin 1, BU goes to the alternator. Comes from the Instrument Cluster "charge indicator" light. BU in the fuse box.
Pin 2, GN/YL comes from oil lever sensor. It is BU/BK in the fuse box and runs to the static oil level active check control unit, which is the same as the oil level light.
Pin 4, BR/VI comes from the coolant temp sender unit. It is BR/VI in the fuse box and goes to the Instrument cluster temp gauge.
Pin 5, BR/GN Oil pressure switch. Runs to instrument cluster oil pressure light.
Pin 6, GN/WH goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 9 and in the fuse box is colored GN/YL.
Pin 7, GN comes from the ignition switch and goes to the Start Input, in the motronic unit and it also goes to Pin 15 on the coil. In the fuse box it is colored GN.
Pin 8, WH/BK comes from the motronic unit "present fuel rate output". Is YL/WH in fuse box and runs to Fuel Economy Gauge in the bottom of the tach.
Pin 9, BK goes to the ECU Engine speed output. This is BK in the fuse box. On the E28 this actually should be the connected in C103.
Pin 10, BU comes from the oil level sensor. It is VI/GN in the fuse box and goes to the active check control unit as the dynamic oil level light.
Pin 11, WH/GN comes from Pin 7 of the diagnostic connector. Is WH/BU in the fuse box and goes to the Service Indicator Processor.
Pin 12, GY comes from the ECU and is the trigger for the "Check Engine" light control. In the fuse box it is BR/BK. This wire is not used on the E28, since there is no check engine light.
Pin 13, GN/VI comes from Pin 87 of fuel pump relay. Is VI/RD in fuse box and runs to Fuse 11.
Pin 14, BK/WH comes from motronic unit "Speed Signal Input". Is BU/YL in fuse box and goes to the Speed Input of the Instrument Cluster.
Pin 15, BK/GN comes from Pin 30h on the coil. In the fuse box it is BK/GN and runs to the unloader relays.
Pin 16, WH/BK comes from Pin 6 of diagnostic connector and is used in the SRS system. In the fuse box it is WH/BK and is said to be not used.
Pin 18, BK/YL is the starter trigger and comes from in the car. It is also BK/YL in the fuse box. It also runs to Pin 11 of the diagnostic connector.
Pin 20, RD/YL comes from Pin 87 of the main relay. It is RD/YL and goes to power the ABS Hydraulic Unit.

[Funkmasta]

Byron, can you get an 87 M20i harness? It is nearly a direct swap... that is what we used on the 87 325e that we just converted...

[E30SPDFRK]

What exactly would I need to do if I got one from an 87e? I've heard you need to extend the injector wires or something like that, is that it? I had a really hard time finding one around here, but if it is going to make the wiring simple then I guess I need to start looking again. I need to get this thing done in the next 2 weeks so I would like to make this as simple as possible.

[Funkmasta]

Byron, run the 87 M20i harness. We just put an E32 M30b35 motor into an 87e car using an 87 M20i harness. We had to extend the TPS wire, oil level wire, and we removed the AC, but if you are keeping it, you will need to extend that also.