G260 output flange nut removal and torque

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  • digger
    R3V Elite
    • Nov 2005
    • 5909

    #1

    G260 output flange nut removal and torque

    Have to do some temporary repairs to the clutch throw-out bearing, pivot and some seals even though going to do a full rebuild later this year with engine swap need to keep car on road a while longer yet.

    In any case having difficulty getting the rear 30mm nut off the back of the trans to fix the seal as decided to fix leak after i bolted it back in place, longest breaker is too long and next size is a bit short as car is on jack stands . I'm going to try a bit of heat to soften the loctite or whatever was likely used and give it another go. Any other tips? my impact is a POS so probably not upto the job.
    I made a flat bar that bolts to the flange so can react against it.

    What is the proper torque to do it back up?

    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

  • e30davie
    E30 Mastermind
    • Apr 2016
    • 1788

    #2
    yer that bastard nut took me a while to get off. I did it with the gearbox out side the car and ended up using a 2m length of pipe over my breaker bar and unfortunately broke one of the gearbox mount "ears" off the gearbox in the process (as that was how i was holding the output flange still) - so good idea with your flat bar.....

    I honestly don't think i could have gotten it off with the gearbox in the car unless it was on a hoist to get the giant breaker bar in.

    I even took it to the local drive line shop who had a 3/4" rattle gun and it didn't get it.

    A bit of heat will certainly help as i suspect on mine anyway they used the super hard core locktite..

    Not sure what the torque spec is, check the Bentley manual - i dont recall it being that tight - not as tight as it was to remove anyway. also check the Bentley on where they want you to put the sealant before you put the nut back on. its quite specific.

    Comment

    • digger
      R3V Elite
      • Nov 2005
      • 5909

      #3
      Originally posted by e30davie
      yer that bastard nut took me a while to get off. I did it with the gearbox out side the car and ended up using a 2m length of pipe over my breaker bar and unfortunately broke one of the gearbox mount "ears" off the gearbox in the process (as that was how i was holding the output flange still) - so good idea with your flat bar.....

      I honestly don't think i could have gotten it off with the gearbox in the car unless it was on a hoist to get the giant breaker bar in.

      I even took it to the local drive line shop who had a 3/4" rattle gun and it didn't get it.

      A bit of heat will certainly help as i suspect on mine anyway they used the super hard core locktite..

      Not sure what the torque spec is, check the Bentley manual - i dont recall it being that tight - not as tight as it was to remove anyway. also check the Bentley on where they want you to put the sealant before you put the nut back on. its quite specific.
      yeah got a PM with the following specs



      "Output Shaft Flange Nut (Getrag Transmission) - 170Nm then loosen completely and then tighten to 120Nm"

      i may need to jack up the car a bit more if heat doesn't work. I can get my long breaker on but not enough arc to swing so maybe another 4" will higher might be enough.
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

      Comment

      • digger
        R3V Elite
        • Nov 2005
        • 5909

        #4
        Got stupid thing off with heat and cheapo Aldi impact
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

        Comment

        • reelizmpro
          R3V OG
          • Dec 2003
          • 9446

          #5
          I was going to say, I usually use heat and impact.
          "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

          85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
          91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

          Comment

          • jbontke
            E30 Addict
            • Mar 2019
            • 445

            #6
            I got mine off with a good impact (can't remember if it was a pneumatic Snap-On or my BAMF 1/2 Milwaukee), maybe borrow one?

            Comment

            • digger
              R3V Elite
              • Nov 2005
              • 5909

              #7
              I got if off, the straw that broke the camels back was a bit of heat.
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

              Comment

              • varg
                No R3VLimiter
                • May 2014
                • 3283

                #8
                Good that my suggestion worked before I even got here. Propane torch and a cordless craftsman impact did it for me when I changed the rear seal.

                IG @turbovarg
                '91 318is, M20 turbo
                [CoTM: 4-18]
                '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                '93 RX-7 FD3S

                Comment

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