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Update: I've put about 300 miles on her and she run's like a scalded cat!
I have a short list of things that need to be fixed:
1. Brakes are dragging (Massive Booster Delete)
2. Still no Tach
3. Speedometer is WAY off
4. Electric fan runs all the time.
Other than that, she runs great and is an absolute blast to drive. The solid motor mounts aren't as bad as I was expecting vibration wise and the exhaust is actually relatively quiet until I stand on it. No power steering isn't that bad but, I haven't had it on a tight road yet. The decision to delete the brake booster is still questionable, I can't give a solid answer until I have fixed the dragging pad problem (just need to adjust linkage). Because the pads are in contact with the rotor, the pedal is super firm and the pads have some pretty knarly fade.
The fan should be an easy fix. I just need to change wire pin-outs on a relay.
Current: '91 DS M3, '03 TS M3 (6MT)
'06 Chevy 2500 Duramax - Race car hauler, '90 Corvette - Weekend toy Past: '88 AW M3, '87 RB M6, '98 CS M3, '88 DS M3, '88 Zinno M3, '88 AW SETA (facelift), 1988 Super E (Bronzit - grey wrap)- RIP, 1986 353, 1986 VW Jetta (vr6) - Racecar
1. Dragging brakes fixed - backed off on the rod between the master cylinder and the pedal
2. Tach fixed - needed resistor between the power and signal wire
3. Speedometer is still off
4. Electric fan fixed - issue with relay wiring
No power steering feels amazing, I am still really happy with it even on twisty roads when pushed hard. No power brakes is a little sketch when doing spirited driving - I will most likely be upgrading calipers or reducing the size of the master. I can't lock up the wheels and I don't have the confidence I want to late brake into a turn and know that the car will respond.
On another note, I have been slowly going through the rest of the car and I started with the sunroof crank knob.
I made a prototype on a 3d printer and once I verified the dimensions I printed a more permanent version from black Nylon. The permanent version was a little tight and I had to use a rubber mallet to tap it onto the handle. Works like a champ though and sure beats the little metal post.
Current: '91 DS M3, '03 TS M3 (6MT)
'06 Chevy 2500 Duramax - Race car hauler, '90 Corvette - Weekend toy Past: '88 AW M3, '87 RB M6, '98 CS M3, '88 DS M3, '88 Zinno M3, '88 AW SETA (facelift), 1988 Super E (Bronzit - grey wrap)- RIP, 1986 353, 1986 VW Jetta (vr6) - Racecar
Update:
Just turned ~5,000 miles - car is running better than ever.
Huge shout out to Erk's LS Tuning and Wiring for getting the tune dialed in and the speedometer reading correctly.
The tach is now reading correctly after simply setting the signal in the ecu from 8cyl back to 4cyl which is what the tach was programmed for.
The speedometer receives a signal from the ecu which receives the signal from the transmission. The speedometer has a "learn" feature in which you press a button, drive a mile, and then press the button again. During this time the speedometer is measuring the pulses/mile and is suppose to calibrate on it's own. I tried this method a few times and the results were always very erratic speed. The issue was fixed by telling the ecu the diff ratio and tire size and then setting the output signal to 8000 pulses. The speedometer had a factory setting of 8000 so once I did a hard reset everything worked perfectly.
The gauges I bought were Summit Racing and I would not recommend them. The gauges haven't even been installed a year and they are already starting to lose portions of the numbers. The tach resolution is not that great and moves in increments of 100 and sometimes 500 rpm.
I did 70mph in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear to see what RPM the engine would run at and compared to the spreadsheet I had made (posted on page 2).
Below are the results and keep in mind tach moves in 100 and 500rpm.
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