The 5 lug swap truth thread!!!!!!!!!!

[Dagamus(NM)]

Yup, those are correct. Strange that you have that much of a problem.

Look on the bright side, you can now run these:













Those be euro m-coupe rotors. I wanted the ones with the M\\\ logo on them, but I could not justify an extra $200 over what I paid for bling. These are the ATE rotors and I got a good deal on them from rmeuropean.com

[etxxz]

that will actually make a HUGE difference, maybe even put your wheels forward if using e36M stuff. Good job with those man. Props, well done!

My solution is still the best.
BFH to the frame, to the rear of the arc, and no inner fender cover.

[mikeedler]

My solution is still the best.
BFH to the frame, to the rear of the arc, and no inner fender cover.

worked for me for now too, wheel doesn't look centered, but doesn't rub up front even with et 20 summthin wheels.

[diegom6]

that will actually make a HUGE difference, maybe even put your wheels forward if using e36M stuff. Good job with those man. Props, well done!

My solution is still the best.
BFH to the frame, to the rear of the arc, and no inner fender cover.

BFH? Pics or process?

[etxxz]

sorry my querido peruano "Big F* Hammer"
and hmmm no pics of process, just turn your wheel and wherever it rubs you pound.

i mean our wheels are very close to centered, but with bigger rims/tires metal needs a little massaging.

[diegom6]

sorry my querido peruano "Big F* Hammer"
and hmmm no pics of process, just turn your wheel and wherever it rubs you pound.

i mean our wheels are very close to centered, but with bigger rims/tires metal needs a little massaging.

Gotcha! I tried to hammer the inner chasis rail once, but the damn thing is so hard to bend/punch....gotta try it harder this time. It's horrible when turn steering lock to lock while parking the car, you can actually feel /see one of the front tires locked (doesn't roll) while the car starts to try go sideways lol

[silence]

I wouldnt suggest hamming your frame rails...

[etxxz]

yeah me neither.. besides, they are way too hard for you to do much bending... and i tried... I'm talking about the back of the fender arch. Spacers, keep the tire from the frame.

[moatilliatta]

OK so you are still using the non-M hubs. The pictures I posted prior is of my car with a centered 16" wheel (albeit oversized tire from 5 series) using all e36m3 components in the front.


My argument and has been in the thread:
Using e36 M3 96+ control arms (castor gaining)
Using M3 offset bushings (castor gaining)
using e36 m3 knuckles (castor gaining)
e36 m3 brake components, rotors, calipers etc
e36 m3 equivilent struts (e30 springs and e30 upper mount/Stützlager)

..will yield fewer problems than using any of the non-M counter parts listed above that are available as oem, non-custom, part.

I do have respect for your adaptability and available access to a machine shop. I understand the economics of batch manufacturing a design to keep costs within reason when it comes to tooling and setting the machines. I just wanted to drive the point home that there is a way to do this using already available parts that are fairly easy to source (at least stateside). But if there are those who want to run the non-M components due to brake/wheel restrictions then your adapters definitely fit the bill. The e36M3 requires at least a 16" wheel.

cheers,
p_0

What do the e46 control arms do?

[CrAzY_DrIveR]

so bimmerworld can be trusted to send the spindles?


so far i have this and it doesn't look that bad
et20 7.5j 16" azev A
225/45/16 tires
castor should be bad and if i try to correct ir the wheel should go further back...

96 control arms and offset buschings (pulls the wheel 22mm to the front)

[diegom6]

Hey guys, anyone tried the e46 control arms in their e36 5 lug swapp?

I have all the goodies to make them work, but not sure if it's a good idea.

2 & 3 page with pics

http://e30performance.info/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=1006&start=15

[etxxz]

bring wheel forward huh.. interesting... maybe compare with the 96+ CA and see.. interesting way to go about this.. I'd do it if all that needs doing is grinding the CAB mount...

[diegom6]

bring wheel forward huh.. interesting... maybe compare with the 96+ CA and see.. interesting way to go about this.. I'd do it if all that needs doing is grinding the CAB mount...

Me too. But somewhere reading a post from MR 325 , he stated that while trying the e46 control arms wouldn't notice any move forward of the wheel, instead will be the same or even backward. But others say it will increase caster which is what we need.

Also, it will get you higher negative camber (which I don't care since I have Vorshlag plates) but will get wider in the front, not sure how much.

[J308]

would i do this again. hell no. although i got my parts for dirt cheap, i should have staid 4-lug, max 15" wheels. bbk on the front. track compount F&R. valve bias (probably to the front line), and that's it. saved lots and lots of time and trouble and customization, welding, cutting sweating, cursing and frankeinsteining my suspension.

Tagging this as a reminder to never do it.

Carry on.

[etxxz]

going 5-lug or the bias valve on the front line?

would say both, having already done them. though i experience no problems with either and work pretty damn well. my s52 can't overheat these brakes even at tracks known to be brutal on brakes (sebring, pbir thunderhill and infineon -moved to CA this year : p) i can't imagine stock brake sized keeping up and going bbk would've been twice the price for same performance in my case since i got lucky sourcing and lowballing.

as for the brake bias. this is my testament of 3 years of excellent service. i would do it again if the fronts were so ridiculously biased.