Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

5-lug Setup

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Aptyp
    replied
    z3 and mz3 trailing arms are same width, physically. MZ3 trailing arm does use a bigger bearing and trailing arm itself is better reinforced. Big difference is in the hub. MZ3 hub is the same as e36m3, it's flat and doesn't extrude by an inch.

    Leave a comment:


  • HellzMindPlaya
    replied
    so does that mean that the trailing arm is shorter from mounting point (on sub-frame) to wheel bearing mounting position on a Z3M than on a Z3 with a 2.8 in it? kinda crazy if it is, and if not, what is different that alows them to fit under the car?

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    you can not use e36 m3 rear brakes on z3 hubs. Rotor itself fits, but it will not sit over parking brakes and caliper will be offset by over an inch and would require a thick bracket. Sorry, pal, won't work.


    However, if you fing mz3 trailing arms, your e36 m3 brakes will slide right over and you'll be the happiest man alive. Repeat: Z3 M-Roadster and M-Coupe brakes are good to go for e36 m3 brakes... With trailing arms, make sure to grab CV axles and diff flanges. You'd need them aas well.

    Leave a comment:


  • jutny
    replied
    i read the whole thread, and I'm not sure I saw my answer.

    If i use the z3 i-6 hubs and bearings on the 86+ car as per the webpage linked in the OP, can i use e36 m3 rear brakes? It says "any" under calipers and such, but then says I need the z3 i-6 rotor, which i'm sure is smaller than the e36me rear rotor.

    reason i ask is because i'm going to have an entire e36m3 at my disposal so i want to use as MUCH as possible. Hell i'd even venture to weld in the e36 subframe to get the diff and suspension... but so far i don't see any way that would work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Originally posted by Aptyp View Post
    nah, it's in spring pads and springs... Lowering rear changes toe and camber. If I corner-balance, all rear specs would line up.
    Well, if your ride height is really that uneven, I guess it's possible. Hopefully, that's what it is.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    nah, it's in spring pads and springs... Lowering rear changes toe and camber. If I corner-balance, all rear specs would line up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Originally posted by Aptyp View Post
    urethane and perfect... I took too much shit out of the car and rear sits a little high right now.
    You've also got uneven toe and net toe-out in the rear. Do you have adjusters in the rear? If you don't have adjusters welded in or anything and the bushings are in good condition, you may have a bent rear subframe. :(

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    urethane and perfect... I took too much shit out of the car and rear sits a little high right now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Ouch at uneven rear camber. How are your TABs?

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    promissed to add my alignment data and it's not on the OP


    and here

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    exchanged PMs, hope I helped.


    Added more pics to my OP and whored a little.

    Leave a comment:


  • formula driver
    replied
    Originally posted by Aptyp View Post
    got e36m3 spindles and brakes for all 4 corners today. No I need to wreck my head to figure out how to install rear brakes. I'd like those huge m-calipers and rotors all around.
    Did you have any luck getting the e36 rears to work? I have an e36 M3 parts car...

    edit: If I end up using ti/1.9 z3 rear stuff, will the e36 M3 rear bilstein's I have work? Also, can I use e36 M3 sway bars front or rear? Thanks bro, this thread is awesome!
    Last edited by formula driver; 01-24-2010, 04:34 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    push on the front and see how far down the car goes. Bilstein bump stops are about 2.5" long, so that makes 2.5" of strut shaft unusable. H&R sports are fairly soft and easily have 1-2" of travel during normal driving. Also don't forget that camber plates make ride a lot harder. GC plates should give you extra .5" of travel, though, so they're a good thing in your setup.

    Another way you can check this is to put a jack up the front on one side and look on the other side how much travel was allowed to full compression.

    Leave a comment:


  • HellzMindPlaya
    replied
    So quick question, because it has kinda been bugging me lately... Why the hell is my ride in the front so harsh? I am on e36 M3 front bilsteins and e30 H&R sport springs? If it matters I am also on Ground Control Camper/Caster Plates. Am I running the wrong setup? I was under the understanding what I had was really close to optimal, but whenever I go over an expansion in the road it makes me wonder if I forgot something. There are bump stops on the front right? How can I tell if I am riding on them for some reason?

    Leave a comment:


  • Aptyp
    replied
    adding control arm pics to compare e30 to e36m3 ones.






    Silver one is e30 and black one is e36 m3

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X