Why are some people weird about wheels?

[hteverow]

I've been noticing these crazy prices on genuine BBS RSs or genuine Ronal LSs or whatever, what makes them so valuable? Are they THAT much lighter or stronger than other wheels? And why do people knock replica wheels? I can get a pair of nice-looking, TUV-approved Maxilite Alpina replicas for less than $800, but some people are charging like $3,000 for genuine Alpinas. Is there really a $2000 difference in quality between the Maxilites and the real deal?

[moatilliatta]

Economics 101, Supply and demand. These wheels are thinning out and not as available as they used to be and some people aren’t happy till the have them real deal.

[hteverow]

Supply and demand. These wheels are thinning out and not as available as they used to be

...so you're telling me the prices are ridiculous because they're name brand (wonder how these people shop at a pharmacy), even though these wheels are like 30 years old? Wouldn't you want, I don't know, newer metal that hasn't been through decades of slamming into potholes?

[moatilliatta]

I’d take equal condition authentic BBS over reps if the budget allowed.

Everything times out.

Any high end wheel wheel new or used isn’t cheap.

Just enjoy what the budget allows and pay attention to what light weight wheels crack.

[roguetoaster]

No, there is generally no functional difference between original name brand and a quality replica, especially in a single piece wheel.

[ForcedFirebird]

Wheels are a consumable to me. They get rash, paint, concrete, sawzall'd to remove after crash etc. There is a HUGE difference from cast to forged wheels, imagine doing 110 into T1 Road Atlanata and suddenly the Chinese cast wheel decides to let go at the hub, sending your "rim and tire" off into the sunset while you come to a non-controlled stop resting on the wheel center, still bolted to your hub with fancy Motorsport wheel studs? Yes, BTDT, unfortunately.

Yeah, at 0mph, you can park the car real hard, and only a trained eye will notice the knock-offs. Well, until the plastic "BBS bolts" start coming unglued, then you have people telling you in parking lots that "your rims are falling apart, man".

All that being said, will I run $400 XXR's?, yes, but not at speed. And would I run BBS on the track?, not likely. BUT a set of forged 15x8" from Tire Rack for $600. Heck yes. Crap, TR has Borbet type CA right now for $109/ea!

So, as moatilliatta says, rare/desirable wheels are going to be more expensive. If one doesn't like the price, try and reproduce the "quality" for less, and until they can be made from scratch for less, they will remain elusive/desirable/expensive. Supply:Demand price fluctuations have been around long before the tulip bubble(mania).

[reelizmpro]

As time goes by those old used parts aren't going to be as good as they once were however, they may be higher quality and harder to find. Originals will certainly hold their value better if not increase over time vs a replica. For enthusiasts with deep enough pockets, they will pay the price for authentic originals vs any replica regardless of quality. I have Axis Klassic RS replicas on one of my cars because they are good reps and the price was too good to pass up. Most people cannot tell the difference anyway. I did spring for authentic ACS wheels for my M3 but that's something I was adamant about because it's an M3 and everything on it is period correct down to the 1991 Kenwood pull out. ACS reps available at the time didn't look the part so the choice was clear for me.

[Vincenze]

Ronal is still in business, isn't it?

Yes, it has factories in Poland, Mexico, and Taiwan.
That's how it can supply relatively cheap wheels.

Don't those "original" W.Germany wheels need multiple weights to balance them?

[roguetoaster]

Don't those "original" W.Germany wheels need multiple weights to balance them?

You know that wheel weights are for tire and wheel together, right?

[Vincenze]

You know that wheel weights are for tire and wheel together, right?

Can you explain why modern rims need fewer weights to balance them?
I believe that they have better tolerances.

[lukeADE335i]

My local tyre place always comments on how well balanced my 14 inch weaves are when he balances tyres for the e30 - on the other hand my typ 313s on the e92 always require a few weights.

Generally, I'd assume that modern wheels should have better tolerances, but this doesn't seem the case between my two BMWs.

[mike.bmw]

As other have said - supply and demand. It's the same thing for various other "rare" and "genuine" parts - not just limited to wheels.

By the way, you can still by a set of Ronal LS wheels new. I bought my set from a vendor in the UK a couple of years ago and they were very reasonably priced.

[mike.bmw]

Can you explain why modern rims need fewer weights to balance them?
I believe that they have better tolerances.

My local tyre place always comments on how well balanced my 14 inch weaves are when he balances tyres for the e30 - on the other hand my typ 313s on the e92 always require a few weights.

Generally, I'd assume that modern wheels should have better tolerances, but this doesn't seem the case between my two BMWs.

As roguetoaster pointed out, the tires play into the equation here. You could have perfectly balanced wheels that don't require any weights, but adding a non-perfect tire will throw off the balance, thus requiring weights to be placed on the wheel to balance the pair, wheel and tire, together.

[roguetoaster]

Yep, Mike nailed it, and I'd bet that the ISO type standard for wheel tolerances from new in terms of balance hasn't changed much in many years, so differences between old and new are likely random.

[mike.bmw]

Yep, Mike nailed it, and I'd bet that the ISO type standard for wheel tolerances from new in terms of balance hasn't changed much in many years, so differences between old and new are likely random.

And just to beat a dead horse - tires actually come different color dots on them. Many places I've had tires mounted choose to ignore these dots, but they are there balancing reasons (to achieve optimal balance after mounting). Here's some information I copied from a website:

"Tire manufacturers recommend the correct positioning of the red and yellow dots with respect to certain “landmarks” on both steel and alloy wheels. These dots can be used to mount tires for optimum initial balance and minimum ride disturbance – where the dots go depends on which dots – and which wheels you have.

First, if the tire has a red dot, the yellow dot is ignored! The red dot is then lined up with either the “low point dimple” (on steel wheels) or next to the valve stem on alloy wheels. Regardless of the type of wheel, if there is no red dot, the yellow dot is positioned next to the valve stem.
Why do the tire dots go where they do?
Simply put – the tire is a bit lighter in the area where the yellow dot is located, and a bit thicker where the red dot is located. On an alloy wheel, the valve stem marks the heavy point of the wheel. By matching the light point of the tire with the heavy point of the wheel it’s likely to give the best initial balance.

On a steel wheel the low point dimple marks the thinner part of the wheel – so it makes sense to match the red dot to the wheel dimple.
Abiding by these guidelines results in a precise – uniform placing and usage of wheel weights when balancing your vehicle’s tires.
To be continued – how to know if your tires were balanced professionally.
"