Why you need a torque wrench

[e30onBBSs]

Heat and impact are the magic formula for removing that stuff. If the internal hex screw is stripped you can't do anything but drill it out, but you said the rotor is off? Do you have a welder or know someone who does? The ideal solution is to weld a nut to that broken lug bolt, that should be enough for you to be able to get it out. If not, your best bet is to grind some flat spots on it, get it really hot, and try to work a socket on there, or use a pipe wrench/flat jaw vice grips. You don't want to have to drill that big sucker out, not going to be fun to do with a hand drill and the bit to do it will be $$.

Would JB weld or whatever that stuff is callef work? I don't know anyone with a welder unfortunately! I will try to flatten the edges right now. Thanks for the advice!

[jalopi]

odds of JB weld working are pretty slim, the stuff is more like a high temp/heavy duty super glue. it might be OK for "fixing" something like a shovel but there's no replacement for melting two metals together.

maybe look into getting a hobart handler?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FVgYHwodXm4AVQ

i've got one and it's served me pretty well for a while now. only thing it doesn't do is aluminum and steel over (well realistically over anyway) 1/4".

you'd be shocked at the amount of shit you can make/repair/do with a welder, acetylene torch, drill press and a 20-ton harbor freight press.

[varg]

Would JB weld or whatever that stuff is callef work? I don't know anyone with a welder unfortunately! I will try to flatten the edges right now. Thanks for the advice!

I highly doubt JB weld would work, even if the parts were immaculately clean.

[e30onBBSs]

odds of JB weld working are pretty slim, the stuff is more like a high temp/heavy duty super glue. it might be OK for "fixing" something like a shovel but there's no replacement for melting two metals together.

maybe look into getting a hobart handler?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FVgYHwodXm4AVQ

i've got one and it's served me pretty well for a while now. only thing it doesn't do is aluminum and steel over (well realistically over anyway) 1/4".

you'd be shocked at the amount of shit you can make/repair/do with a welder, acetylene torch, drill press and a 20-ton harbor freight press.

One day within the next couple years I plan on buying a welder. I want the skills! But right now I would rather just spend the $80 for new hub and bearing. I just want to drive this baby! Is the MAPP gas torch I got hot enough to fuse anything?

I highly doubt JB weld would work, even if the parts were immaculately clean.

I was just reading up and others said the same exact thing. Thanks Varg!

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Anyone got any other ideas? Get everything else fixed up and drive it to a shop on 3 lugs to remove it?

[AndrewBird]

50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid is the best penetrating oil. Popular mechanics did a test and this combo worked better than every other penetrating oil on the market, including PB Blaster and the Liquid Wrench you bought.

Try turning the stud while it is still hot. Heat it up red hot and give her hell. Should come out then. If you can't get the stud to change color, you aren't getting it hot enough. A propane torch won't get it hot enough and a MAP gas torch probably won't either, but it might.

This style extractor is probably your best bet for turning it. Sears sells them.

[e30onBBSs]

Thanks AndrewBird! Will give it the flames of hatred for a long time today and see whatsup! Might have time to get a set of those before work too..

[jalopi]

50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid is the best penetrating oil

x2, just make sure to shake your DIY spray bottle GOOD before you use the stuff each time


the MAP bottle you got from HD will certainly get things hot enough for fusion, just as long as the material's lead, tin or some other low melt temperature metal ;)

[F34R]

You need to make a build thread....most of everything you post can be in one haha.

[e30onBBSs]

You need to make a build thread....most of everything you post can be in one haha.

I have one and sometimes these things just snowball and I'm like uh should I start a new thread or just leave it?

[DrJosh]

So you have a bare hub with a broken lug bolt and a stripped rotor screw? You can use vice grips to grip the rotor screw. Use a second set of vice grips to tighten the first set of vice grips onto the bolt. That should do it. I had to use that method once after I drilled off the head of a rotor screw.

Or just pull the hub and replace with new. Once you have the brakes disassembled it takes a whopping ten minutes to pull the hub with a gear puller and replace.

[AndrewBird]

the MAP bottle you got from HD will certainly get things hot enough for fusion, just as long as the material's lead, tin or some other low melt temperature metal ;)

Actually, you might be able to solder a nut onto the stud. It might be strong enough to get it free. Just make sure you clean the stud VERY well (no rust) and get everything hot enough that the stud melts the solder, NOT the torch.

[e30onBBSs]

Why you need a torque wrench

Actually, you might be able to solder a nut onto the stud. It might be strong enough to get it free. Just make sure you clean the stud VERY well (no rust) and get everything hot enough that the stud melts the solder, NOT the torch.

Hmm I may give this a shot! Tomorrow morning I'm just going to sit there with the torch for a while and see if it budges. Last night I noticed that the grease on the axle nut was melting, should I get some grease and grease it up after I (hopefully) get the threads out?

[jalopi]

hrm.... brazing ~might~ work... but it's a big might

i don't think tin/silver or tin/lead solder would work though, considering how stuck that bolt is you'd probably have to braze with a brass rod or something similar

[e30onBBSs]

Why you need a torque wrench

I may just get wheel bearings and hubs. This is a big nuisance and I don't feel like sinking more money into tools. Heated it for probably 10 minutes and it still won't budge, it's like part of the hub at this point. It was melting to form to the vice grips, and nothing! I don't need rotors because the rust on them was super surface so thats basically the cost of a new hub/ bearing saved right there.

And I want to go to studs so a fresh hub would be grear because of loctite

[jalopi]

i dunno man, that doesn't look like surface rust that'd go away with a few hard applications of the brakes though... guess you'll find out after a test drive, eh?

also, people sink money into boats, cars and shitty houses, never tools. tools are investments. sure, unless it's some vintage shit you'll never get 100% of what you paid for it, but a guaranteed 70-80% is a superior depreciation rate to almost anything else you can buy

you'll also need to prepare yourself mentally (and tool wise) for if/when an inboard inner race gets stuck to the spindle (pictured)



if you DO run into this issue, go out to harbor freight and buy this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html

and you'll be on your way to replacing the bearing/hub without a hitch