E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_59. ETK_51_Body equipment. Lining of the luggage compartment lid

So, we finish with trunk linings. It remains to install only the lining of the trunk lid.

Trunk lid trim




The lining of the trunk lid was not part of the basic configuration of the car, but was placed as additional equipment. I looked for her for a long time, but I could not find her. We make fiberglass replicas, but they are so crooked and scary that I didn't want to put one on my car, let alone glue it on sealant. And one day I was lucky - my friend dropped the seller's contacts, and he was very close by. Without thinking long, I went the next day and bought this skin. In addition, it is in perfect condition and at a reasonable price. Only a few clips were missing, I ordered new ones.
Part No. 1 - lining of the luggage compartment cover (51 49 1 916 246).
Part Forum - not used.*
Part No. 3 - bracket (51 41 1 870 718) - 14 pcs.



Simply put on the clips. But, as it turned out, not everything is so simple in my case!


When I applied the skin to the cover, I was very surprised - the uppermost clips fell into the large technological holes, and the middle ones rested against the metal... The side and lower ones fell into the holes normally. Amazingly. I went looking for an answer to this at ETK. And here's what it turned out - the skin was available only from September 1986. Moreover, for its installation, changes were made to the design of the cover - as it turned out, they are of two types! The post-September 1986 covers have fewer large process holes, and six holes for the upper trim clips. So, the "bolt-on" cladding is only on such a cover. And what is the irony of fate - I bought such a cover, but it did not have holes for the spoiler, so I decided to keep mine so as not to bother with drilling. You can see the difference in the photo.


Well, it was not possible to outwit fate! I didn't want to drill holes for the spoiler before painting, so I had to drill holes for the trim after painting! :) It was possible, of course, to paint and rearrange the second cover. :) But I decided to drill anyway.


But I drilled three holes, and three more fell into large holes. Do not brew them now! )) I had to come up with something - I picked up rubber plugs in the exact size in a car shop, and made holes for clips in them. On the first plug I tried drilling and cutting through the rubber, and then I tried burning the holes with a soldering iron - it was much better, although there was a lot of smelly smoke. This is such a "life hack" :)








Now the paneling is normally in its place - the rubber clips also hold well.


The appearance has become much better. But the cutouts for the lighting somehow don't look very good... I don't understand why they didn't make larger rectangular holes for repositioning the lamps in the paneling...


It remains to install a tool box, a jack and a spare wheel in the trunk.

*
P.S.
A few words about another very interesting skin.
I was wondering what part Forum is on the diagram in ETK. And I found her in Africa! :)
This is a decorative overlay (51 49 1 916 249) on the lock bracket. In the same section there is also a panel with a different number (51 49 1 916 644). Both of these parts were for some reason only available for the South African market, but are no longer available to order. I found a photo of this skin, judging by the website address on the glass, the car is from Africa:


It looks just gorgeous! There is also an overlay on the lock bracket. In addition, it is also for a large tool box. I will look for it in Africa! )

P.P.S.
Finally, all the black door linings are painted, the details of the electroplated door handles have also been ready for a long time - I can completely assemble the doors.

[roguetoaster]

I'd venture that SA cars may have gone to that style of panel to mitigate glue separation on the ROW cover, or maybe it was just less expensive. Nonetheless, very cool!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_60. ETK_51_Body equipment. Protective bar

Finally, all the black door trims are painted, including the door moldings.
Moldings were installed on all E30s, except M3. There are three options:
1. Chrome - black molding with a chrome insert.
Protective molding


2. Black - black molding with a black insert.
Protective bar schwarz


3. Black - black molding without insert.
Protective bar schwarz


Before restyling, the first type was installed in the basic configuration, and the second type was installed in the "shadow line" option. The third type was installed after restyling in the basic configuration.
Fastening in all three types of moldings is similar.
In my case - the second type - "shadow line". Accordingly, the moldings are painted in black semi-matte color.


Detail Home - left and right front fender molding. And here's a small "kolkhoz" :) In the section about turn signals, I already wrote that I don't really like the original side turn signals, so I won't install them. But there will be turn indicators on the wings. Well, here they are - turn indicators from the E38, installed also, as on the E38 - in the molding of the front wing.


I like the look of this option much more than the original lights in a huge housing above the molding. It looks more neat and almost imperceptible. Not according to the "canons", of course, but at least a little "kolkhoz" should be somewhere! :) Especially since I installed them a long time ago.
Detail Forum - left and right front door molding.
Detail Blogs - left and right rear door molding. And again a little "kolkhoz" or "styling" - cataphots on the moldings :) But it was done before me, the previous owner.


I like them too. I don't know what they are from, but their shape and size are perfect for moldings! Maybe it's some kind of "aftermarket"... They have some kind of PS and PD marking.


And the shape and size of the E38 turn signals are perfect for them. This is what inspired me to install them.


Glued on double-sided tape - as if they should be here! :)


Now about fasteners. In ETK, in this section, there is a complete error and delusion in terms of the number of all details. Therefore, I will write the correct number of all fasteners for a 4-door sedan.
Part No. 9 - tip (51 12 1 867 907) - 2 pcs. on each side.


Please note that the two wing molding mounting clips come together with the molding under the same ETK number and cannot be ordered separately. Although, one rear clip is easily removed from the molding - you can see it in the photo above.

Part No. 5 - tip (51 13 1 916 449) - 2 pcs. on each side, or 1 pc. for each door.
Part No. 6 - M4 plastic nut (41 33 5 480 120) - 2 pcs. on each side, or 1 pc. for each door.
Parts No. 5 and No. 6 are placed on the outer studs of the door moldings.
Part No. 7 - bar clamp (51 13 1 876 128) - 2 pcs. on each side, or 1 pc. for each door. They are placed on the edge of the door moldings. New such clips are slightly different from the old ones, but they hold well.
Part No. 8 - bracket (51 13 1 829 904) - 3 pcs. on each side, or 2 pcs. on the front door and 1 pc. to the back door. They are placed on the middle part of the door moldings. New such clips were very poorly held in the door, so I had to install all the old clips from donor doors.

The photo clearly shows the location of the fasteners.
Front door:


Back door:


We install all the clips on the wings and doors.


Wing:


Front door:


Back door:


The end clips on the door (#7) are installed "mirror". Front door:


Back door - the other way:


Now we install moldings. On the wing, the molding simply snaps tightly into Albums lugs.


The door moldings are first put into the grooves of the extreme clips Visitor Messages at an angle to the door, and then smoothly pressed and snapped onto the clips Private Messages At the same time, the extreme pins of the moldings must fall into the tips No. 5. From the inside of the door, a plastic nut No. 6 is screwed onto the pin, and it presses the edge of the molding.
Nut on the rear end of the front door molding:


Nut on the front end of the rear door molding:


Moldings are installed.




Turns and cataphotes somewhat resemble American "sidemarkers" ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_61. ETK_41_Body (door handles)

Body

I chose four of the best pens that were available, but still their condition was not ideal.


Handle mechanisms and door clips are ready after electroplating, and handles after painting in semi-matte black. Everything is ready for their installation.


We assemble the internal mechanism. The axles were painted, so I did it.






Aluminum handles are attached to the mechanism with ordinary M4x10 steel screws, so in most cases they oxidize and are very difficult to unscrew. Of my four knobs, I could only unscrew one. It's good that I collected another set of pens in advance. So, I decided to put similar stainless steel screws and washers.


Front handles.
Front door handle/lock mechanism/key


I will write about the locks and the key later - they still need to be put in order and reworked under one key. So far only about pens.


Part Home - left (51 21 1 906 891) and right (51 21 1 906 892) handle mechanism. It consists of two parts, an axis and a spring.
The driver's handle can be ordinary, or with an additional contact for the interior lighting timer relay and lock heating. Although there is only one number in ETK.
Front mechanisms - left and right.


Additional contact on the left:


Part No. 2 - sleeve (51 21 1 802 016) - polyethylene sleeve for the mechanism lever.
Part No. 3 - rubber pad (51 71 1 916 537).
These parts are needed for smoother operation of the mechanism. You can see them in the photo:


Part Groups - handle (51 21 1 923 996). It has two rubber buffers on the inside. On cars of the first years of production, these buffers were not installed on the handle, but on the door. Saw it live on 323i but can't see them in ETK.
Part No. 5 - screw M4x10 (51 21 1 916 992) - 2 pcs. for each pen. Complete with washers. As I already said - I replaced them with similar stainless screws.
Part No. 6 - locking nut M6 (51 21 1 803 363) - 2 pcs. for each pen.
Part No. 7 - insert plate with pins (51 21 1 906 540) - 1 pc. for each pen. By the way, it is not yellow from the factory, but white zinc - that's why I did it that way.
I will write about other details of the locks later.
The handle is quite easy to install. First, plate Visitor Messages is inserted into a special slotted door bracket.


We put the mechanism on the pins so that its lever engages with the lever of the door lock.


We fasten the nuts - there are special holes for this in the doors.


We raise the lever of the mechanism, fix it in this position with a plastic spatula and screw the handle.


We align it together with the mechanism and tighten the nuts of the mechanism and the screws of the handle.


On the driver's door, everything is similar, but there, together with the handle mechanism, you need to install a bracket for attaching the interior lighting timer relay and heating the lock.


Relay bracket and additional contact.




Back handles.
Rear door locking system


I already wrote about the internal handles, so now only about the external ones.


Part Home - left (51 22 1 906 607) and right (51 22 1 906 608) handle mechanism. It consists of two parts, an axis and a spring.
Part Forum - insert plate with pins (51 21 1 906 540) - 1pc. for each pen. By the way, it is not yellow from the factory, but white zinc - that's why I did it that way.
Part No. 3 - rubber pad (51 71 1 916 537).
The polyethylene sleeve for the mechanism lever on the rear handles is not shown for some reason, but it is also there.
These parts are needed for smoother operation of the mechanism.
Part Groups - handle (51 21 1 923 996). It has two rubber buffers on the inside. On cars of the first years of production, these buffers were not installed on the handle, but on the door. Saw it live on 323i but can't see them in ETK.
Part No. 5 - screw M4x10 (51 21 1 916 992) - 2 pcs. for each pen. Complete with washers. As I already said - I replaced them with similar stainless screws.
Part No. 6 - locking nut M6 (51 21 1 803 363) - 2 pcs. for each pen.

Installation is similar to the front handles. There are also special openings in the doors. But there is one nuance - the plastic shield of the door lock blocks access to one nut.


Therefore, you need to first install handles on the rear doors, and only then locks. I had to find the right key to get to that nut.


It was very inconvenient to fasten. On the other hand, I still had to unscrew the lock.
All the handles are installed, now it has become more convenient to open the door.

[The_Glory]

I'd venture that SA cars may have gone to that style of panel to mitigate glue separation on the ROW cover, or maybe it was just less expensive. Nonetheless, very cool!

Maybe such a skin was specially made for the 333i

[roguetoaster]

Maybe such a skin was specially made for the 333i

One never knows with those ZA specials. I really dig the turn signal setup, somehow I never noticed those on an E38, but that old joke about BMW drivers not using signals may explain that.

[The_Glory]

)
That's why I like them, that they are integrated into the molding, and are almost invisible when turned off.

[The_Glory]

Collection_62. ETK_41_Body. Front door seal

We continue the section

Body

Further door assembly.

Front door seal



Detail Home - internal plastic decorative bar. It can be chrome or matte black (in the "shadow line" package). Mine were chrome, but the condition of the coating was not very good, and besides, in the "shadow line" they should be black - so I painted them. In ETK, the left and right bars have different numbers, but I don't understand what their difference is - in fact, they are the same and stand on both sides equally.
Detail Blogs - internal rubber glass seal with "velvet" spraying. In ETK, the left and right seals have different numbers, but the difference is only in the bevel of the cutting of the front edge. In the extreme case, it can be installed on any side, and it will not be noticeable from the outside. After restyling, parts Home and Blogs were combined into one rubber part.
Part No. 2 - bracket (51 21 1 906 277) for attaching a decorative strip and a seal - 4 pcs. for each door.
Part No. 15 - bracket (51 21 1 906 277) for fastening a decorative strip - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed in the front part under the mirror, where there is no longer a glass seal. In ETK, it is indicated under the same number as bracket #2, but in fact it differs in width. Although it can be replaced with staple number 2. In the photo, number 15 on the left, number 2 on the right:


Detail No. 4 - an external metal decorative bar. It can be chrome or matte black (in the "shadow line" package). I have the "shadow line" package - that's why it's black. In ETK, the left and right bars have different numbers.
Detail No. 5 - external rubber glass seal with "velvet" coating. In ETK, the left and right seals have different numbers, but the difference is only in the bevel of the cutting of the front edge. In the extreme case, it can be installed on any side, and it will not be noticeable from the outside.
Part No. 6 - bracket (51 21 1 876 087) for fastening decorative bar and seal - 5 pcs. for each door.
Part No. 7 - bracket (51 21 1 922 699) for fastening a decorative strip - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed in the rear part under the vertical door post, where there is no longer a glass seal.
Part No. 7 - bracket (51 21 1 922 761) for fastening a decorative strip - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed in the front part under the mirror, where there is no longer a glass seal. Can be replaced by bracket Visitor Messages (51 21 1 904 513), which is used on the rear door.
In the photo on the left (51 21 1 922 761), in the center (51 21 1 876 087), on the right (51 21 1 922 699):


There are special stampings on the doors for installing staples:


The brackets are simply put tightly on the edge of the door.


The outer brackets are similar, but I installed them together with all the "shadow line" overlays, so I will write about them later. Rubber seals for the glass must be installed after the glass is installed, so we will talk about them later.
Part No. 8 - upper left (51 21 1 888 209) and right (51 21 1 888 210) rubber seal. It is placed on top of the door frame - it is simply inserted tightly into the groove. I thought it would be hard, but with the silicone lube it clicks into place very easily.


Part No. 14 - bracket (51 22 1 856 946) for fastening the seal - 2 pcs. on each door on the edges.




Now about the door stoppers.
Part No. 9 - plug 20x50 (51 71 1 852 763) - is placed on the passenger door instead of the corrugation of the door wiring, in the case of a complete set without an electric package and the right electric mirror. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 10 - plug D=6MM (51 71 1 904 603) - 1 pc. for each door. But, apparently, not all doors have openings for them. I didn't find them myself, so they turned out to be superfluous.


Part No. 11 - plug 5.5X15 (51 22 1 875 179) - 2 pcs. for each door. But, apparently, not all doors have openings for them. I didn't find them myself, and besides, they are no longer available for ordering.
Part No. 12 - plug D=20MM (51 71 1 964 810) - 2 pcs. for each door. It is placed from the bottom of the door, but there are doors with holes D=18.5MM, which require other plugs (51 21 1 838 473). Perhaps it somehow depends on the year of release. In my case, the front doors have 20mm holes, correspondingly plugs (51 71 1 964 810), although the old doors had 18.5mm holes with plugs (51 21 1 838 473). In the photo on the left (51 71 1 964 810), on the right (51 21 1 838 473):


Plugs are installed.


Parts Articles and General Forums are not used. These are parts for a convertible.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_63. ETK_41_Body. Rear door seal

Rear door seal



Part Home - upper rubber seal left (51 22 1 888 213) and right (51 22 1 888 214). It is placed on top of the door frame - it is simply inserted tightly into the groove. I thought it would be hard, but with the silicone lube it clicks into place very easily.


On the vertical post of the door frame, the seal is also inserted into a special groove.


Part No. 12 - bracket (51 22 1 922 139) for fastening the seal - 1 pc. for each door.


It can be replaced by a bracket (51 22 1 856 946) used on the front door.
Detail Forum - internal plastic decorative bar. It can be chrome or matte black (in the "shadow line" package). Mine were chrome, but the condition of the coating was not very good, and besides, in the "shadow line" they should be black - so I painted them. In ETK, the left and right bars have different numbers, but I don't understand what their difference is - in fact, they are the same and stand on both sides equally. In addition, they are no different from the front bars.
Detail Blogs - internal rubber glass seal with "velvet" spraying. In ETK, the left and right seals have different numbers and are not interchangeable. After restyling, parts Forum and Blogs were combined into one rubber part.
Part No. 8 - a bracket (51 21 1 906 277) for fastening a decorative bar and a seal - 4 pcs. for each door.
Part No. 15 - bracket (51 22 1 911 805) for fastening a decorative strip - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed in the back part under the blind glass (similar brackets are placed on the front door under the mirror). It differs from bracket No. 8 in width. In the photo on the left #8, on the right #15:


Detail No. 5 - an external metal decorative bar. It can be chrome or matte black (in the "shadow line" package). I have the "shadow line" package - that's why it's black. In ETK, the left and right bars have different numbers.
Detail No. 4 - external rubber glass seal with "velvet" coating. In ETK, the left and right seals have different numbers and are not interchangeable.
Part No. 6 - bracket (51 21 1 876 087) for fastening decorative bar and seal - 4 pcs. for each door (similar to the front door)
Part No. 7 - bracket (51 21 1 904 513) for fastening the decorative bar - 3 pcs. for each door. One is placed in the front part under the vertical post of the door, where there is no longer a glass seal, and two in the back part under the blind glass.
In the photo on the left (51 21 1 904 513), on the right (51 21 1 876 087):


There are special stampings on the doors for installing staples:


The brackets are simply put tightly on the edge of the door.


The outer brackets are similar, but I installed them together with all the "shadow line" overlays, so I will write about them later. Rubber seals for the glass must be installed after the glass is installed, so we will talk about them later.

Now about the door stoppers.


Part No. 9 - plug D=23MM (51 71 1 904 843) - 1 pc. for each door. It is installed instead of the corrugation of the door wiring, in the case of a configuration without an electric package. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 10 - plug D=6MM (51 71 1 904 603) - 1 pc. for each door. Miniature rubber plug with BMW logo:

But, apparently, not all doors have openings for them. I found a hole for it only on the back left door. It is not there on the right door, as well as on both front doors - and I don't understand why it is there... That's why I have 3 pcs. turned out to be redundant.
Part No. 11 - plug D=20MM (51 71 1 964 810) - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed from the bottom of the door, but there are doors with holes D=18.5MM, which require other plugs (51 21 1 838 473). Perhaps it somehow depends on the year of release. In my case, the front doors have 20mm holes, correspondingly plugs (51 71 1 964 810), and the rear doors have 18.5mm holes with plugs (51 21 1 838 473).


Part No. 13 - plug D=17MM (51 22 1 924 979) - 1 pc. for each door. A rubber plug that closes the hole for the plastic nut for fastening the door molding.
Part No. 14 - plug D=28MM (51 71 8 138 511) - 1 pc. for each door. A plastic plug covering the hole for the lower bolt of the door opening limiter.
Plugs are installed.
Right side:


Left side (you can see that miniature plug #10 here):




Next, about the "shadow line" overlays.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_64. ETK_51_Body equipment. External overlays/decorative grills

The rest of the overlays are located in another ETK section
Body trim

Unit
Exterior Trims/Decorative Grilles


On my car, instead of the basic "chrom" package, the optional "shadow line" package is installed - accordingly, all door trims have a black semi-matte color. They were not in bad condition, but it was better to paint them.


The story with painting took a long time... At first I wanted to do it myself, but I was afraid to spoil them, because I am not a very good painter). Therefore, I bought paint and gave them to a painter I know. It took a long time to assemble, then he got sick... several weeks passed and I took the overlays and they were not painted. I wanted to paint it myself again... but I never dared... then I decided to do everything right and took them to the same painter who painted my car. I am satisfied with the result - it looks like the original - semi-matte black.


Everything does not fit on the table, so in parts.
Upper linings of the roof.


Part Home - black front bar, left (51 13 1 953 065) and right (51 13 1 953 066).
Part Forum - black connecting jumper, left (51 13 1 953 067) and right (51 13 1 953 068).
Part Blogs - black rear bar, left (51 13 1 953 671) and right (51 13 1 953 672).
Part Groups - air duct cover, left (51 13 1 922 331) and right (51 13 1 922 332).


Part No. 5 - rubber gasket (51 13 1 906 969)
Part No. 6 - bracket (51 13 1 884 467) - 4 pcs. on each side. Connects parts No. 3 and No. 4 together.
Part No. 7 - tip (51 14 1 902 279) - 1 pc. on each side. Lower attachment of part Groups
Part No. 8 - insert (51 13 1 870 459) - 3 pcs. on each side. Attachment of part No. 4.
Part No. 9 - sealing gasket (51 13 1 904 479) - 3 pcs. on each side. For detail Private Messages
Part No. 10 - bracket (51 13 1 863 499) - 4 pcs. on each side. Attachment of part No. 1.


Clips No. 6 are inserted into the holes of the pad No. 4, and are fixed with spacer rods. Then bar No. 3 is snapped onto them.


On the inner side, we glue the sealant - 50 cm on each side. You can order the original one.


But I had a similar sealing strip from a regular hardware store - no worse and 20 times cheaper :)


I draw attention to two details that are not specified in the ETK - a rubber stop and a plastic spacer on the overlay. The stop is made of elastic rubber or rubber, and is glued to the lining. That's why I didn't wash it off the paint so as not to damage it. A plastic spacer is inserted into the pad and prevents the pad bracket from bending during its installation.


We put connecting jumpers on the upper edges.


Clips No. 7 and No. 8 with gaskets No. 9 are inserted into the holes on the body.


But carefully click the overlay into them.


Clips No. 10 are inserted into the front bar No. 1 - in the part that goes along the front rack of the roof. 4 pieces each on each side, evenly along the length of the roof rack.


Then we insert the bar with a groove on the edge of the roof, and push the bar from front to back along its entire length so that it falls into the connecting bridge on the back bar. We fasten the front part to the roof rack. All this must be done very carefully so as not to bend the bar.


The upper linings of the roof are installed.

Front door linings.


Part #11 - black front bar, left (51 32 1 961 247) and right (51 32 1 961 248).
Part CSS Examples - black front vertical bar, left (51 32 1 876 143) and right (51 32 1 876 144).
Part No. 15 - bracket (51 32 1 874 017) - 10 pcs. for each door.

Rear door linings.


Part Articles - black rear bar, left (51 34 1 961 273) and right (51 34 1 961 274).
Part E30 Classified Forums - black rear vertical bar, left (51 34 1 888 219) and right (51 34 1 888 220).
Part No. 15 - bracket (51 32 1 874 017) - 9 pcs. for each door.

We install brackets evenly along the length of the front door frame. These staples are disposable and break very easily, and cost 1 Euro each - so you have to put them very carefully.


An important point - under the vertical post of the front door, you need to immediately install the bracket of the lower lining, which I mentioned in previous entries about glass seals. Otherwise, it will not stand up later, as it simultaneously holds the vertical and lower pads.
We install brackets evenly along the length of the rear door frame.


It is not specified in the ETK, but all overlays are additionally fixed with butyl tape - this was the case both on my door and on the donor door, and it can often be seen in photos on the Internet. Therefore, I bought butyl rubber tape and glued several short strips to each pad.


We start with a vertical overlay. Insert the outer edge into the groove and snap the inner edge of the pad onto the clips.


Similarly, the upper overlay.


Now you can install the bottom cover, which I wrote about in the section on glass seals. Carefully insert it into the grooves of the clips. By the way, I forgot to take a picture of the lower clips.


Same thing on the back door. First, a vertical overlay.


Upper cover. Very carefully you need to fasten the back part, on the "Hofmeister bend".


Now you can install the bottom cover, which I wrote about in the section on glass seals. Carefully insert it into the grooves of the clips.


"shadow line" overlays are installed. Now you can put seals and glass.

[roguetoaster]

I wasn't too sure about the blue color, but it's coming together with the shadowline trim components.

[The_Glory]

I wasn't too sure about the blue color, but it's coming together with the shadowline trim components.

Yes, I also noticed that the color blue goes very well with "shadow line"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_65. ETK_51_Body equipment. Outside rear view mirror

So, only after installing the "shadow line" overlays (by the way, the sequence of their installation should be exactly like this, I am in the description above), you can install external rear-view mirrors on top of them.

Outside rearview mirror


In the basic configuration, there was only the driver's mirror with an electric drive, and the passenger's mirror - with a mechanical drive. The electric drive of the passenger mirror was already an additional option of the "electric package" - S311 ELEKTRISCHER BEIFAHRERSPIEGEL. It seems a bit strange logic - it would be more convenient for the driver to do the opposite. But it was probably such a clever marketing move - the driver's part can be turned by hand without getting up from the seat, and the passenger's part is already problematic, so they ordered an additional electric drive. Well, this is my opinion :)
By the way, there were also super budget configurations - without a passenger mirror at all.
I have both electric mirrors, but they need to be "upgraded" - heated. so that they fully correspond to the option - S314 Heated exterior mirrors, including heated door lock / washer nozzles. To do this, you need to disassemble the mirror (I don't know why I didn't do this before painting them). We unscrew four screws and remove the electric drive, from the rear side of the drive we take out the wires with contacts - you just need to pull. We pull out the wiring.


In the original, the heating of the mirrors was implemented very simply - two black wires from the power supply of the electric drive (blue and brown) were added in parallel. That is, the heating works constantly in the second position of the key in the ignition lock, and when the engine is running. The original wiring of the heated mirror looks like this (photo from the Internet):


Therefore, I did not look for the original wiring, but in 5 minutes I made exactly the same one from my usual wiring.


It is better to add additional wires after the wiring has already been pulled through the hole in the mirror housing. Because with them, it fits very badly and can be torn. We connect it to the electric drive, by the way, the contacts are signed on it according to the colors of the wires. The heated mirror is ready.


So, all the details of the kit:


In ETK, there are many mirror configuration options with different numbers, so I will not duplicate them here.
Part Home - mirror housing with wiring and rubber gasket.
Detail No. 2 - the glass of the mirror is ordinary or heated. It has different numbers on the left and right sides, but it can be put on either side.


The two upper ones are ordinary - one is original, and the other is apparently an analogue without any markings and numbers, but with the original ring mount. By the way, on new analogs, the fastening is simplified - just latches. The lower one is original with heating.


Detail No. 3 - panoramic mirror glass, ordinary or heated. It has different numbers on the left and right side. Not interchangeable.
Part Groups - rubber gasket left (51 16 1 904 529) and right (51 16 1 904 530).
Part No. 5 - left shield (51 16 1 937 441) and right shield (51 16 1 937 442). A cover covering the hinge and wiring from below. It differs on the left and right side.





From the factory, all body colors were not painted, black. By the way, in the basic configuration, the mirrors are black, and in the color of the body is also an additional option - S844 Exterior mirrors in the color of the body



By the way, if you look closely, you can see that the bracket of the left and right mirror housing has a different angle of inclination, therefore the covers are different. This is probably why mirrors from a left-hand drive car are not suitable for a right-hand drive, and vice versa.


Part No. 6 and No. 7 - M5X12 bolt with washer - 2 pcs. on each side.
Part Private Messages and Albums - mirror adjustment button with a switch (61 31 1 378 847). Located in the door handle. In complete sets with one electric mirror, there is no switch button for the left and right side.
I forgot to put it, so the photo is separate.




Part No. 10 - electric drive (51 16 1 394 107). The same on both sides. Electric mirror adjustment drive with two motors.


On the reverse side there are contacts, signed according to the colors of the wires.


On earlier machines, the drive has one motor and an electromagnetic coil. It is attached to the body with four self-tapping screws, which are not specified in the ETK.
Installation is very simple - the case with a rubber gasket is attached to the door with two bolts. We pass the wiring through the rubber insert in the door and connect it to the door wiring. The adjustment button is also connected to the door wiring, but this will be after the door trims are installed.


We remove the wires for heating the mirror


My heated glass did not have a ring mount. It cannot be ordered separately, it comes together with the glass. So I rearranged it from regular glass. To do this, you need to press the latch of the glass to release the groove on the ring.


Snap the ring onto the heated glass. We connect the heating wires, the glass is tightly put on with four small pins on the electric drive, the grooves on the ring down. Then, with a thin screwdriver inserted through a special hole in the groove, the ring is rotated and fixes the glass. To remove the glass, you need to similarly rotate the ring in the other direction.


The mirror is installed.




Similarly on the right. You just need to find another heated glass, and for now I have installed a regular one.








More on glass sealants.

[The_Glory]

Shopping and gifts.

Today it will not be about assembling a car, but about shopping and gifts.
It's been a long time since I bought anything for the car, so I couldn't resist, given the opportunity, and bought at least something, although it may not be very necessary :) I decided to collect the same glass for all doors - green SOLIVER. And just such a glass for the rear left door was found in Kyiv, at the well-known "dismantling" of old BMWs. I have ordered parts from there several times before with mail delivery, and this time I decided to go there myself to pick up the glass. The sight is impressive - and this is only a small part...


I noticed such a "dinosaur" there - M20 on the carburetor in E12.


But I was interested in the E30 with green glass. And here it is, or rather what is left of it (pay attention to where the sticker with the specified color is located).


A small "lyrical" digression :)
Looking at its color, I wondered what kind of E30 it was. Oddly, the VIN wasn't cut, so I checked it. And here are some interesting things:
month and year - November 1984 - exactly as on mine
color - PLATANENGRUEN METALLIC (188) - exactly like mine
upholstery color - PINIENGRUEN (0149) - exactly like mine
glass color - S350A WAERMESCHUTZGLAS GRUEN, RUNDUM - exactly as on mine
It was exactly the same 4-door sedan, with a manual sunroof, left-hand drive, with a manual gearbox, for the European market.
The difference is only in the engine and equipment. I had the most "cheap" 316 with an M10 on a carburetor, in a very simple configuration, and this was the most "expensive" 323i at that time with an M20 Jetronic, and judging by the remains, in a very good configuration. Very similar, but two extremes. And their fate is different...
The car rotted, as if it was lying at the bottom of the sea! Everything that was removed or torn from it is lying around it - the engine, gearbox, radiator... Probably only the seats and interior parts were sold - everything else is garbage... But something useful was preserved and I took it as a reserve :)
So, back to shopping:


I washed and cleaned the house and this is what I have - it might come in handy ;)


The glass was, of course, tinted with a film that was very difficult to remove.


But I did it anyway. The glass was in excellent condition, without scratches.


I recently wrote about the plastic covers in the niches of the front speakers. They were intact on this car and I realized I had installed them incorrectly. On the left is the old one, on the right is my new one.

The old one has a larger "handle" and "ear" with which it is fixed on the opening of the speaker. Apparently, the "ear" was made smaller when replacing the speaker casing from fabric to plastic. You don't need to push the lid all the way down like I did. Therefore, I rearranged it correctly - we fix it with the ear at the bottom of the hole.


Thus, now the cover should also be on the left side - the ECU of the central lock will not interfere. I will install it later.

I also wrote about the brackets for interior lamps - I replaced them with a good "replica". But on this car, surprisingly, they were preserved completely intact!


I also replaced them for order :)


He took the broken box for cassettes that was lying there under his feet. I've had one for a long time, it's also broken. I was thinking of making one out of two. But it turned out that they were of two types. I had one with "windows" indicating the presence of a cassette, and this one without them. Now you will have to add them both :)


By the way, the day before yesterday, a teammate gave me a third type of "cassette box", in excellent condition, but without a frame. For that with cassettes))


Now there will be the entire "line" of E30 cassette boxes. Although, I have nowhere to put them - the phone is in their place. Maybe someday I'll move it to the console, then the "cassette" will come in handy.
By the way, I bought another microphone for the phone with a decorative grill in the console, which I was missing, cables for the phone antenna, and a button for locking the rear windows. Also, I took almost the entire audio wiring and electric antenna wiring. Unexpectedly, there I found a windshield wiper switch with an "intensive" button and a heater panel frame with a temperature scale with numbers on the E30 body cut in the trash - a nice find for climate control :) Also for "creative" experiments I took the wiring of the E34 power sunroof and the belt lock security - but more on that later. And all sorts of little things, connectors.

I recently bought another interesting thing, but I don't know why. :) I said I wouldn't install an airbag, although I did the wiring for it. Now I also bought a set of wiring, sensors and ECU...


I washed it, cleaned it and put it in a box... Maybe one day, if it becomes completely boring, I will start looking for all the steering control parts for the airbag - rail, column, switches, steering wheel... Although it will not be possible to fully install it, without welding works on the KPP tunnel... The same thing...

And it all started with glass. So - the last green SOLIVER glass was recently found - on the front right door. We exchanged with a teammate, for which I am sincerely grateful to him. The glass was also tinted, but here the film came off very easily.



Soon I will give all four glasses for polishing and then, finally, it will be possible to finish the work on the doors.

Well, I kind of bragged about the shopping, and now about the gifts) I recently had a birthday, and this is what my wife and daughter gave me!


Interesting and rare things - I am very grateful to them.
Standard audio amplifier. I really need a mounting bracket for it - I'm looking for it.


Standard radio receiver BMW BAVARIA DIGITAL II. So to speak - the main audio device of the very entry level :) Without a cassette player - just a radio. Not often found. Moreover, it is in almost new condition. Apparently, it was replaced when it was new - with some kind of cassette player.



Connectors are still of the old type.


Along with the radio, there was a factory manual, but as it turned out, the manual was for the diametrically opposite model - the top-of-the-line cassette radio for that time, the BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS. I have such a radio, so the factory manual will be an appropriate addition to it.


The car light is probably not a factory option, but an "aftermarket" option, but it has been made in Germany since those times. An interesting accessory, in my opinion. Completely disassembled, cleaned. Works from 5 batteries, although the lamp is 6V.



Folds compactly.



In the working position, it has two modes - constant light and flashing. But I haven't bought the batteries yet, so I'll check after I leave ;)



And another very nice gift from old friends from the E30 club. Yura and Zhenya - thank you!
The desk clock is made from a regular BMW E30 clock - great!


Club! ) Power supply from a regular outlet.


These are my updates)

I will also write something about assembling the car soon.

[roguetoaster]

Well, happy birthday! Very interesting base model radio, always neat to see such things as we never got truly low spec cars in the US.