E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

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  • The_Glory
    replied
    Collection_62. ETK_41_Body. Front door seal

    We continue the section

    Body

    Further door assembly.

    Front door seal



    Detail Home - internal plastic decorative bar. It can be chrome or matte black (in the "shadow line" package). Mine were chrome, but the condition of the coating was not very good, and besides, in the "shadow line" they should be black - so I painted them. In ETK, the left and right bars have different numbers, but I don't understand what their difference is - in fact, they are the same and stand on both sides equally.
    Detail Blogs - internal rubber glass seal with "velvet" spraying. In ETK, the left and right seals have different numbers, but the difference is only in the bevel of the cutting of the front edge. In the extreme case, it can be installed on any side, and it will not be noticeable from the outside. After restyling, parts Home and Blogs were combined into one rubber part.
    Part No. 2 - bracket (51 21 1 906 277) for attaching a decorative strip and a seal - 4 pcs. for each door.
    Part No. 15 - bracket (51 21 1 906 277) for fastening a decorative strip - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed in the front part under the mirror, where there is no longer a glass seal. In ETK, it is indicated under the same number as bracket #2, but in fact it differs in width. Although it can be replaced with staple number 2. In the photo, number 15 on the left, number 2 on the right:


    Detail No. 4 - an external metal decorative bar. It can be chrome or matte black (in the "shadow line" package). I have the "shadow line" package - that's why it's black. In ETK, the left and right bars have different numbers.
    Detail No. 5 - external rubber glass seal with "velvet" coating. In ETK, the left and right seals have different numbers, but the difference is only in the bevel of the cutting of the front edge. In the extreme case, it can be installed on any side, and it will not be noticeable from the outside.
    Part No. 6 - bracket (51 21 1 876 087) for fastening decorative bar and seal - 5 pcs. for each door.
    Part No. 7 - bracket (51 21 1 922 699) for fastening a decorative strip - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed in the rear part under the vertical door post, where there is no longer a glass seal.
    Part No. 7 - bracket (51 21 1 922 761) for fastening a decorative strip - 1 pc. for each door. It is placed in the front part under the mirror, where there is no longer a glass seal. Can be replaced by bracket Visitor Messages (51 21 1 904 513), which is used on the rear door.
    In the photo on the left (51 21 1 922 761), in the center (51 21 1 876 087), on the right (51 21 1 922 699):


    There are special stampings on the doors for installing staples:


    The brackets are simply put tightly on the edge of the door.


    The outer brackets are similar, but I installed them together with all the "shadow line" overlays, so I will write about them later. Rubber seals for the glass must be installed after the glass is installed, so we will talk about them later.
    Part No. 8 - upper left (51 21 1 888 209) and right (51 21 1 888 210) rubber seal. It is placed on top of the door frame - it is simply inserted tightly into the groove. I thought it would be hard, but with the silicone lube it clicks into place very easily.


    Part No. 14 - bracket (51 22 1 856 946) for fastening the seal - 2 pcs. on each door on the edges.




    Now about the door stoppers.
    Part No. 9 - plug 20x50 (51 71 1 852 763) - is placed on the passenger door instead of the corrugation of the door wiring, in the case of a complete set without an electric package and the right electric mirror. In my case it is not used.
    Part No. 10 - plug D=6MM (51 71 1 904 603) - 1 pc. for each door. But, apparently, not all doors have openings for them. I didn't find them myself, so they turned out to be superfluous.


    Part No. 11 - plug 5.5X15 (51 22 1 875 179) - 2 pcs. for each door. But, apparently, not all doors have openings for them. I didn't find them myself, and besides, they are no longer available for ordering.
    Part No. 12 - plug D=20MM (51 71 1 964 810) - 2 pcs. for each door. It is placed from the bottom of the door, but there are doors with holes D=18.5MM, which require other plugs (51 21 1 838 473). Perhaps it somehow depends on the year of release. In my case, the front doors have 20mm holes, correspondingly plugs (51 71 1 964 810), although the old doors had 18.5mm holes with plugs (51 21 1 838 473). In the photo on the left (51 71 1 964 810), on the right (51 21 1 838 473):


    Plugs are installed.


    Parts Articles and General Forums are not used. These are parts for a convertible.​

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  • The_Glory
    replied
    )
    That's why I like them, that they are integrated into the molding, and are almost invisible when turned off.​

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by The_Glory

    Maybe such a skin was specially made for the 333i
    One never knows with those ZA specials. I really dig the turn signal setup, somehow I never noticed those on an E38, but that old joke about BMW drivers not using signals may explain that.

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by roguetoaster
    I'd venture that SA cars may have gone to that style of panel to mitigate glue separation on the ROW cover, or maybe it was just less expensive. Nonetheless, very cool!
    Maybe such a skin was specially made for the 333i

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Collection_61. ETK_41_Body (door handles)

    Body

    I chose four of the best pens that were available, but still their condition was not ideal.


    Handle mechanisms and door clips are ready after electroplating, and handles after painting in semi-matte black. Everything is ready for their installation.


    We assemble the internal mechanism. The axles were painted, so I did it.






    Aluminum handles are attached to the mechanism with ordinary M4x10 steel screws, so in most cases they oxidize and are very difficult to unscrew. Of my four knobs, I could only unscrew one. It's good that I collected another set of pens in advance. So, I decided to put similar stainless steel screws and washers.


    Front handles.
    Front door handle/lock mechanism/key


    I will write about the locks and the key later - they still need to be put in order and reworked under one key. So far only about pens.


    Part Home - left (51 21 1 906 891) and right (51 21 1 906 892) handle mechanism. It consists of two parts, an axis and a spring.
    The driver's handle can be ordinary, or with an additional contact for the interior lighting timer relay and lock heating. Although there is only one number in ETK.
    Front mechanisms - left and right.


    Additional contact on the left:


    Part No. 2 - sleeve (51 21 1 802 016) - polyethylene sleeve for the mechanism lever.
    Part No. 3 - rubber pad (51 71 1 916 537).
    These parts are needed for smoother operation of the mechanism. You can see them in the photo:


    Part Groups - handle (51 21 1 923 996). It has two rubber buffers on the inside. On cars of the first years of production, these buffers were not installed on the handle, but on the door. Saw it live on 323i but can't see them in ETK.
    Part No. 5 - screw M4x10 (51 21 1 916 992) - 2 pcs. for each pen. Complete with washers. As I already said - I replaced them with similar stainless screws.
    Part No. 6 - locking nut M6 (51 21 1 803 363) - 2 pcs. for each pen.
    Part No. 7 - insert plate with pins (51 21 1 906 540) - 1 pc. for each pen. By the way, it is not yellow from the factory, but white zinc - that's why I did it that way.
    I will write about other details of the locks later.
    The handle is quite easy to install. First, plate Visitor Messages is inserted into a special slotted door bracket.


    We put the mechanism on the pins so that its lever engages with the lever of the door lock.


    We fasten the nuts - there are special holes for this in the doors.


    We raise the lever of the mechanism, fix it in this position with a plastic spatula and screw the handle.


    We align it together with the mechanism and tighten the nuts of the mechanism and the screws of the handle.


    On the driver's door, everything is similar, but there, together with the handle mechanism, you need to install a bracket for attaching the interior lighting timer relay and heating the lock.


    Relay bracket and additional contact.




    Back handles.
    Rear door locking system


    I already wrote about the internal handles, so now only about the external ones.


    Part Home - left (51 22 1 906 607) and right (51 22 1 906 608) handle mechanism. It consists of two parts, an axis and a spring.
    Part Forum - insert plate with pins (51 21 1 906 540) - 1pc. for each pen. By the way, it is not yellow from the factory, but white zinc - that's why I did it that way.
    Part No. 3 - rubber pad (51 71 1 916 537).
    The polyethylene sleeve for the mechanism lever on the rear handles is not shown for some reason, but it is also there.
    These parts are needed for smoother operation of the mechanism.
    Part Groups - handle (51 21 1 923 996). It has two rubber buffers on the inside. On cars of the first years of production, these buffers were not installed on the handle, but on the door. Saw it live on 323i but can't see them in ETK.
    Part No. 5 - screw M4x10 (51 21 1 916 992) - 2 pcs. for each pen. Complete with washers. As I already said - I replaced them with similar stainless screws.
    Part No. 6 - locking nut M6 (51 21 1 803 363) - 2 pcs. for each pen.

    Installation is similar to the front handles. There are also special openings in the doors. But there is one nuance - the plastic shield of the door lock blocks access to one nut.


    Therefore, you need to first install handles on the rear doors, and only then locks. I had to find the right key to get to that nut.


    It was very inconvenient to fasten. On the other hand, I still had to unscrew the lock.
    All the handles are installed, now it has become more convenient to open the door.

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  • The_Glory
    replied
    Assembly_60. ETK_51_Body equipment. Protective bar

    Finally, all the black door trims are painted, including the door moldings.
    Moldings were installed on all E30s, except M3. There are three options:
    1. Chrome - black molding with a chrome insert.
    Protective molding


    2. Black - black molding with a black insert.
    Protective bar schwarz


    3. Black - black molding without insert.
    Protective bar schwarz


    Before restyling, the first type was installed in the basic configuration, and the second type was installed in the "shadow line" option. The third type was installed after restyling in the basic configuration.
    Fastening in all three types of moldings is similar.
    In my case - the second type - "shadow line". Accordingly, the moldings are painted in black semi-matte color.


    Detail Home - left and right front fender molding. And here's a small "kolkhoz" :) In the section about turn signals, I already wrote that I don't really like the original side turn signals, so I won't install them. But there will be turn indicators on the wings. Well, here they are - turn indicators from the E38, installed also, as on the E38 - in the molding of the front wing.


    I like the look of this option much more than the original lights in a huge housing above the molding. It looks more neat and almost imperceptible. Not according to the "canons", of course, but at least a little "kolkhoz" should be somewhere! :) Especially since I installed them a long time ago.
    Detail Forum - left and right front door molding.
    Detail Blogs - left and right rear door molding. And again a little "kolkhoz" or "styling" - cataphots on the moldings :) But it was done before me, the previous owner.


    I like them too. I don't know what they are from, but their shape and size are perfect for moldings! Maybe it's some kind of "aftermarket"... They have some kind of PS and PD marking.


    And the shape and size of the E38 turn signals are perfect for them. This is what inspired me to install them.


    Glued on double-sided tape - as if they should be here! :)


    Now about fasteners. In ETK, in this section, there is a complete error and delusion in terms of the number of all details. Therefore, I will write the correct number of all fasteners for a 4-door sedan.
    Part No. 9 - tip (51 12 1 867 907) - 2 pcs. on each side.


    Please note that the two wing molding mounting clips come together with the molding under the same ETK number and cannot be ordered separately. Although, one rear clip is easily removed from the molding - you can see it in the photo above.

    Part No. 5 - tip (51 13 1 916 449) - 2 pcs. on each side, or 1 pc. for each door.
    Part No. 6 - M4 plastic nut (41 33 5 480 120) - 2 pcs. on each side, or 1 pc. for each door.
    Parts No. 5 and No. 6 are placed on the outer studs of the door moldings.
    Part No. 7 - bar clamp (51 13 1 876 128) - 2 pcs. on each side, or 1 pc. for each door. They are placed on the edge of the door moldings. New such clips are slightly different from the old ones, but they hold well.
    Part No. 8 - bracket (51 13 1 829 904) - 3 pcs. on each side, or 2 pcs. on the front door and 1 pc. to the back door. They are placed on the middle part of the door moldings. New such clips were very poorly held in the door, so I had to install all the old clips from donor doors.

    The photo clearly shows the location of the fasteners.
    Front door:


    Back door:


    We install all the clips on the wings and doors.


    Wing:


    Front door:


    Back door:


    The end clips on the door (#7) are installed "mirror". Front door:


    Back door - the other way:


    Now we install moldings. On the wing, the molding simply snaps tightly into Albums lugs.


    The door moldings are first put into the grooves of the extreme clips Visitor Messages at an angle to the door, and then smoothly pressed and snapped onto the clips Private Messages At the same time, the extreme pins of the moldings must fall into the tips No. 5. From the inside of the door, a plastic nut No. 6 is screwed onto the pin, and it presses the edge of the molding.
    Nut on the rear end of the front door molding:


    Nut on the front end of the rear door molding:


    Moldings are installed.




    Turns and cataphotes somewhat resemble American "sidemarkers" ;)​

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    I'd venture that SA cars may have gone to that style of panel to mitigate glue separation on the ROW cover, or maybe it was just less expensive. Nonetheless, very cool!

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Collection_59. ETK_51_Body equipment. Lining of the luggage compartment lid

    So, we finish with trunk linings. It remains to install only the lining of the trunk lid.

    Trunk lid trim




    The lining of the trunk lid was not part of the basic configuration of the car, but was placed as additional equipment. I looked for her for a long time, but I could not find her. We make fiberglass replicas, but they are so crooked and scary that I didn't want to put one on my car, let alone glue it on sealant. And one day I was lucky - my friend dropped the seller's contacts, and he was very close by. Without thinking long, I went the next day and bought this skin. In addition, it is in perfect condition and at a reasonable price. Only a few clips were missing, I ordered new ones.
    Part No. 1 - lining of the luggage compartment cover (51 49 1 916 246).
    Part Forum - not used.*
    Part No. 3 - bracket (51 41 1 870 718) - 14 pcs.



    Simply put on the clips. But, as it turned out, not everything is so simple in my case!


    When I applied the skin to the cover, I was very surprised - the uppermost clips fell into the large technological holes, and the middle ones rested against the metal... The side and lower ones fell into the holes normally. Amazingly. I went looking for an answer to this at ETK. And here's what it turned out - the skin was available only from September 1986. Moreover, for its installation, changes were made to the design of the cover - as it turned out, they are of two types! The post-September 1986 covers have fewer large process holes, and six holes for the upper trim clips. So, the "bolt-on" cladding is only on such a cover. And what is the irony of fate - I bought such a cover, but it did not have holes for the spoiler, so I decided to keep mine so as not to bother with drilling. You can see the difference in the photo.


    Well, it was not possible to outwit fate! I didn't want to drill holes for the spoiler before painting, so I had to drill holes for the trim after painting! :) It was possible, of course, to paint and rearrange the second cover. :) But I decided to drill anyway.


    But I drilled three holes, and three more fell into large holes. Do not brew them now! )) I had to come up with something - I picked up rubber plugs in the exact size in a car shop, and made holes for clips in them. On the first plug I tried drilling and cutting through the rubber, and then I tried burning the holes with a soldering iron - it was much better, although there was a lot of smelly smoke. This is such a "life hack" :)








    Now the paneling is normally in its place - the rubber clips also hold well.


    The appearance has become much better. But the cutouts for the lighting somehow don't look very good... I don't understand why they didn't make larger rectangular holes for repositioning the lamps in the paneling...


    It remains to install a tool box, a jack and a spare wheel in the trunk.

    *
    P.S.
    A few words about another very interesting skin.
    I was wondering what part Forum is on the diagram in ETK. And I found her in Africa! :)
    This is a decorative overlay (51 49 1 916 249) on the lock bracket. In the same section there is also a panel with a different number (51 49 1 916 644). Both of these parts were for some reason only available for the South African market, but are no longer available to order. I found a photo of this skin, judging by the website address on the glass, the car is from Africa:


    It looks just gorgeous! There is also an overlay on the lock bracket. In addition, it is also for a large tool box. I will look for it in Africa! )

    P.P.S.
    Finally, all the black door linings are painted, the details of the electroplated door handles have also been ready for a long time - I can completely assemble the doors.​

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  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by jjjjj
    i just spent three hours with this thread for the first time. wow. you sir are quite the man with a vision and with tools. i'll be coming back, meanwhile you just keep doing you.
    Thanks, I'll try)

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by roguetoaster
    I just love this thread, can always count on it for something new to me just about every time I open it.
    I think there will be something new next time too ;) At least, I haven't come across such a thing...

    Leave a comment:


  • jjjjj
    replied
    i just spent three hours with this thread for the first time. wow. you sir are quite the man with a vision and with tools. i'll be coming back, meanwhile you just keep doing you.

    Leave a comment:


  • roguetoaster
    replied
    I just love this thread, can always count on it for something new to me just about every time I open it.

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    To complete the assembly of the trunk, it is necessary to install the rear seat belts. So, the section
    Spare parts+accessories (body)

    There are two types of seat belts.
    The first - until September 1986 - with small buckles, the rear straps are installed in the trunk under the shelf and with an additional attachment on the rear roof rack. The fastening bracket on the racks was metal, and later plastic. The plastic one had a simpler attachment and a more aesthetic appearance. The rear middle belt is secured to the left under the rear seat.
    The second - after September 1986 - with large buckles, the rear straps are installed on the shelf, without additional fastening on the rear roof rack. The rear middle belt is attached to the right under the rear seat.
    Accordingly, seat backs and rear shelves are also different and not interchangeable. But buckles of the second type can be locked in a lock of the first type, but not vice versa.
    Front belts for 2- and 4-door sedans have different fasteners. How do I know that? Because he collected a whole collection of belts! ) I used to have front belts of the second type, and no rear belts at all. I bought the rear belts of the first type a long time ago, and the same front belts were given to me by a friend. I bought the rear middle one recently. So I put together a complete set of 1985 belts - just the thing! Unwound them all, and cleaned and washed them well.




    So, I install the belts.

    Collection_58. ETK_72_Spare parts + accessories (body). Seat belts

    Front seat belt for 4-door cars




    November 1985


    Item Home - Autoflug Belt Reels - Left and Right Symmetrical.


    Part Forum - Autoflug locks - left and right are the same.


    But there is another manufacturer - Repa.


    And the difference is this - the Autoflug buttons remain red even after 40 years, while the Repa buttons have completely lost their color.


    First I bought Repa locks and then had to buy Autoflug to make all the locks red. Although, locks of the second type of Autoflug come across both red and with a completely lost color.


    A collection of locks. By the way, I still need a lock with a seat belt sensor to fully implement this "American" option. You will probably have to look for it in America...there are none here...


    Although the belts were thoroughly cleaned, they did not wind very well. Therefore, I decided to lubricate the mechanism and tighten the spring.
    First the right. The cover of the mechanism is easily removed.


    The spring cover must be removed very carefully - the spring may pop out, and it will not be easy to wind it. Hands can also be injured. Now I know :) Lubricated and wound an extra turn of the spring.


    The same on the left side.




    Now about belt fastening.
    Front safety belt accessories




    All seat belt mounting bolts have a specific 7/16" thread.
    Part No. 1 - bolt (72 11 1 904 775) - 2 pcs.
    Part Forum - sleeve (72 11 1 848 465) - 2 pcs.
    Part #3, Groups - bolt 7/16X20 (72 11 1 861 932) - 6 pcs.
    Part No. 7 - washer (72 11 1 808 673) - 4 pcs.
    Part No. 8 - tension washer (72 11 1 808 672) - 2 pcs.
    Part No. 9 - cover (72 11 1 904 665) - 2 pcs.
    Part #10 - not used.
    Part No. 11 - button (72 11 1 950 829) - 2 pcs.
    Part No. 12 - button (72 11 1 917 406) - 2 pcs.

    The coil of the front belt is fixed in the niche of the middle rack. Only in this position can the belt be unwound. The belt clip is attached to the upper hole on the rack, and is closed with a cover.



    The bracket of the third point of attachment of the belt, and the lock is attached to the seat. Therefore, it will be after their installation.


    For the front belts of the E30, there was a very rare option - height adjustment of the upper fastening of the bracket.
    Belt adjuster

    I saw it only once in a photo on the Internet. A really rare thing for an E30. On the middle rack, there is one additional hole for its fastening. The bracket is attached to this device and can be adjusted to different positions in height. It would be interesting to find such a thing...

    Now the rear straps.
    Rear safety belt




    August 1985


    December 1985 (average)


    Detail Home - belt spools - left and right look the same. Marked with stickers L and R.


    But they have a difference inside.
    Disassembled and lubricated similarly to the front ones. I did not tighten the spring on the rear ones, they began to wind up well anyway.
    Left.


    Right.


    Spring.


    Now about belt fastening.
    Rear safety belt accessories




    All seat belt mounting bolts have a specific 7/16" thread.
    Part No. 1 - bolt (72 11 1 904 775) - 2 pcs.
    Part #2, Blogs - not used. Used for belts with steel staples.
    Part No. 4 - washer (72 11 1 808 673) - 4 pcs.
    Part No. 5 - sleeve (72 11 1 848 465) - 2 pcs.
    Part No. 6 - bolt 7/16X20 (72 11 1 861 932) - 6 pcs.
    Part No. 7 - cover (72 11 1 904 665) - 2 pcs.
    Part Private Messages - left (51 46 1 916 979) and right (51 46 1 916 980) covers - 2 pcs.
    Part Albums - not used. It is used for belts of the second type.

    The rear belt coil is mounted in the trunk, on special brackets under the shelf. Only in this position can the belt be unwound.



    The belt is passed through the hole in the shelf and the plastic cover, the belt clip is attached to the rear rack, and closed with the cover.


    The bracket of the third point of attachment of the belt, and the lock is attached under the rear seat.



    The middle belt should be attached under the rear seat on the left. But I have the seat and rear shelf for the second type of belt where the middle belt is on the right. That's why I installed it there. It seems even more logical to me - so the middle and side belts will not cross. I don't understand why the factory made the opposite...


    The middle belt does not wind up, but will be fixed with a buckle in a special plastic cover on the interior shelf.


    So, the seat belts are installed, the side panels of the trunk can be installed.



    Next will probably be about the lining of the trunk lid.​

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  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by D.Martijn
    Is that plastic cover inside of the A pillar standard? Never seen one of those
    Yes, this is a standard cover - left (51 71 1 916 123) and right (51 71 1 916 124). I recently wrote about them here in the appropriate section.


    But, if the standard central lock is installed, then the left cover is not installed - in its place is the ECU of the central lock.
    If there is a hatch, you need to break out special segments for drain hoses on the covers.

    Leave a comment:


  • D.Martijn
    replied
    Is that plastic cover inside of the A pillar standard? Never seen one of those

    Leave a comment:

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