E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_85. ETK_51_Inner rear view mirror

Let's return again to the ETK section Body equipment.
In the subsection Interior rear view mirror there is another additional electric option, almost the last ;)
S562 Rear view mirror with lamps for reading maps




I dreamed about it for a long time, and now, finally, I installed it. But, in order.
Part No. 1 is a standard rear-view mirror (51 16 1 817 121), included in the basic configuration.
Part #2 is an additional mirror, but I did not find its number in ETK.
Part #3 - additional mirror (51 16 2 125 362), according to the EBA instructions, it was installed on the right, in front of the passenger seat, on the front ceiling panel. To do this, you need to make a cutout in it for the bracket according to the template. It is no longer available to order. Maybe someday, if there is nothing else to do, I will try to make a similar one from my standard one... although it probably won't look very good... we'll see... It's obvious that mirrors #2 and #3 were used in training, police or other special purpose vehicles.
Part #4 - Rear view mirror with lamps for reading maps (51 16 1 906 525), comes as an additional option or in the "M-Technic" retrofit kit.
Part #5, #6 - left (63 31 1 380 153) and right (63 31 1 380 154) individual lighting lamp.


Item No. 7 - lamp 12V 10W, 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - base plate (51 16 1 801 085) - mirror mounting bracket on the body.
Part #9 - shield (51 44 1 900 133) - rubber insert in the ceiling panel. Accordingly, it is used only on machines with this panel.


In the E30, normal interior lighting in the front part of the interior is available only in convertibles - there is a standard lamp above the interior rear-view mirror. For some reason, German engineers did not install it on all other E30 models, but decided that two side lights would be enough. In fact, it is very inconvenient to use them - you have to turn back to reach it, and still there is not enough light from the front - more shadow from the driver and passenger :) Therefore, it is not surprising that many owners somehow try to solve this problem themselves . In my car, the previous owner installed a ceiling light from the light of the small box in the plug of the electric sunroof, but for some reason did not connect it. I connected it in parallel to the left side lamp - it became much better. Later, I replaced that lamp with a standard side lamp with a switch - it became very convenient. It fits perfectly in place of the power sunroof plug and looks like it came from the factory. I don't understand why they didn't do it right away at the factory.


However, German engineers then tried to "rehabilitate" :) and made several additional optional lamps that were connected to the cigarette lighter, and a mirror with lamps. I have not yet bought the lamp for the cigarette lighter, but I managed to find a mirror in excellent condition, although without a connector. But that's not a problem - he installed the necessary connector.


Power buttons and lights with adjustable lighting angle.


An important nuance. The mirror has a greater mass than the standard one, so it can wobble on the move on the base mount. To avoid this vibration, an adjustable stop in the windshield with a rubber pad is provided. It often gets lost... surprisingly, I had it... but it also got lost somewhere in the boxes with spare parts... :( Maybe later it will be found, but for now I found a great solution - a rubber plug that is placed in the door - 51 71 1 904 603.


As I already wrote in the relevant topic, not all doors have openings for them, so I have some left over. Here, one came in very handy - it became just perfect. Even with the inscription BMW :)


Another nuance - the rubber insert No. 9 is put on the leg of the mirror through its hinge. On a mirror with lamps, this is prevented by the same stop in the glass. I haven't figured out how to tighten that rubber band without tearing it yet... The photo shows the size of the hole and the thickness and shape of the mirror leg. According to ETK, it is the same for both mirrors. I bought a new one, but I don't understand how to install it there. I wonder what to cut... If anyone knows, I will be grateful for the information. Can it not be installed with such a mirror at all?

Installing the mirror is very simple. I had already laid the wiring - these are two wires, power and "mass", which go from the niche of the front speaker along the left pillar of the body to the mirror.
In the niche of the left front speaker, we find a black 2-pin connector, and connect the wiring to it.


We lay the wiring together with the wiring of the electric sunroof up the rack, and lead it to the mirror.




We insert the wiring into the hole of the body, and take it out of the hole of the mirror bracket.


We connect the mirror connector and snap it into the bracket. It becomes quite tight, with considerable effort. It is removed in the same way - just pull hard.


A rearview mirror with map reading lamps is installed.


The lamps work only when the ignition is on - it's not very convenient, but it's better than nothing :) Although, for this case, I already have a homemade lamp - now everything is fine with the light in the cabin ;)
After installing the front glass, it will be necessary to adjust the stop with a rubber pad along the thread so that the mirror does not have a backlash.


P.S.
Another "detail" for the mirror - handmade silver "BORBET A"! If someone noticed him on the mirror ;)


A friend once made such a souvenir. It needs to be polished and hung on the mirror, but I will probably write about it sometime in the topic about wheels :)))

[The_Glory]

awsome work! i cant wait to see more!

Thanks
In fact, more has already been done, but there is no time to write.
I want to assemble the car as soon as possible... because the longer this war drags on, the less chance there is of surviving it...
If Europe and America continue to think for a few more years about whether to give Ukraine airplanes and long-range missiles, and whether to allow them to shoot at the racist territories, then by that time, we may not have anyone left to fight...
Also, I don't know when I will finish composing it, or if I will finish it at all, if I am sent to the front...

[Mazi!]

awsome work! i cant wait to see more!

[The_Glory]

Light On Indicator

I already added this option a long time ago, so I'll just copy and add a little to my old text from the forum.

In the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories I found an interesting option:
Lights on indicator.


Judging by the application, it was available for all E30, E32 (M30) and E34 (M40, M20, M21, M30, S38)
But, despite this, there is almost no information on it on the Internet, and it is extremely rare on the E32 and E34, and even less often on the E30. I managed to find only one photo of it and the EBA instructions:


Part No. 1 Signal light on (82 93 9 401 607).

Original instructions (EBA) for the installation of the light on alarm:

http://www.ow.no/archive/eba/1593.PDF

In the original EBA manual, the page scans are somehow confused, which makes it not very convenient to read. So I cut everything from there that only applies to the E30.
The gong beeps when you open the driver's door with the side lights or parking lights on - so you don't forget to turn them off - sometimes it's very useful.
The connection scheme is very simple.
The black wire connects to the driver's door limit switch.



The green wire connects to pin X of the C302 connector - this is power to the radio from the ignition on.




The blue and yellow wires are connected to the left and right side lights, respectively.
That is, to pins 7 and 9 of connector C103 (after restyling).


Or to 1 and 4 pins of connector C103 (before restyling).



The gong is installed on the steering panel, according to the template in the instructions.


So:
blue - left marker light in connector C103
yellow – right side light in connector C103
green - power for the radio in the connector of additional equipment C302 (X)
black - limit switch of the driver's door

As practice has shown, it is almost impossible to find such a gong. Therefore, in desperation, I bought an ordinary gong from the E34, which was also applied to many other BMW models. But I decided to connect it according to the original scheme for the E30, given above in the instructions. Since the gong connection scheme in the E34 differs from the E30 scheme, it was necessary to add diodes to the power supply wiring so that the different power sources (left and right dimensions, and the radio) are not paralleled.
So, in my case, the circuit for an E30 with a gong from an E34 looks like this:


The defoaming of the E34 gong connector looks like this:
"+" - blue - left marker light in connector C103 pin 1
"+" - yellow - right side light in connector C103 pin 4
"+" - green - power for the radio in the connector of additional equipment C302 pin X
T2 (long horns) - black - on the driver's door "mass" terminal
T1 (solid beep) - not used
T3 (short beeps) - not used
"-" - brown - "mass"

We twist the blue, yellow and green wires together (having previously installed diodes in them).
There is nothing complicated about the connection, except that it is physically very inconvenient to do it all under the torpedo. So while my wiring was off the car, I connected the gong wires to the appropriate factory twists, and routed them into the overall wiring harness. But I "got it wrong"... :) I mistakenly connected the power supply to pin W, instead of pin X... Therefore, now it also works in parallel with the backlight of the devices - a "bonus". :) And I forgot to lay the "mass" wire at all... :) It also happens... But here the foam of the C302 connector, which I added myself, came in handy - just what I needed! Pin B is "ground" from Y and pin C is power from X. So picked up the right 2 pin connector and connected it to C302 on BC pins. By the way, now there is only one G pin left unused.


I will not cut a hole for it - I will suddenly find the original one for the E30 later! ;) I'll just attach it to the wiring harness under the shield.

P.S.
In this version, the gong beeps not only when the door is opened with the lighting on, but also when the door is opened with the ignition on - it is also useful.

[The_Glory]

Collection_83. Check Engine option and additional lamps in the instrument panel

We continue to "Americanize" the E30! :) I already added this option a long time ago, so I'll just copy my old text from the forum.

Since 1987, a self-diagnostic function - Check Engine - has been available on BMW E30 with the M20B25 engine intended for the US market.
For this, a special DME Motronic 1.3 contact was used, the information from which was output to the orange "CHECK ENGINE" control lamp on the instrument panel. This lamp is located on the lower left of the instrument panel, in one of the reserve cells.



Do not confuse it with the orange "CHECK" lamp for BSK, which is located between the speedometer and the tachometer - they are completely different things.

Original operating instructions for the CHECK ENGINE function:

Control and signal lamps
1 - Engine operation indicator
The lamp should go out after starting the engine.
If the Check Engine light comes on or flashes, the engine can still be operated, but its electronics must be checked.

This function works as follows:

BMW MOTRONIC "PEDAL" fault codes
(models 1989-94)
All 1989-94 BMW cars are equipped with a self-diagnosis diagnostic system to detect a malfunction of the injection system. When a malfunction is detected, it is recorded by the electronic control unit (ECU) system and the code corresponding to the malfunction is recorded in the ECU memory until:

1) Car battery or ECU shuts down.
2) The engine starts 60 times without repeating the malfunction.
3) ECU memory is cleared using Bosch KTS300, BMW CARSOFT software or CS1000 BMW hand scanner,

To view fault codes from the ECU memory, use the following procedure:

1) Turn the ignition key to the "Ignition On" position.
2) Press the gas pedal five times in a row.

The CHECK ENGINE light will flash displaying the trouble codes starting with the lowest number. These CODES
consist of 4 digits separated from each other by a short pause (ie flash, pause, flash flash, pause, flash, pause, flash, translates as 1 2 1 1).
In the absence of errors, the code 1 4 4 4 will flash.

The decoding of the values of these codes can be viewed here

A useful feature, but it was not available on European BMW E30s.
But, if you look at the ETM scheme, you can see that it can be implemented quite easily - by adding only a few wires. Although it is not a fact that it will work on all machines, since it works only on DME Motronic 1.3. Therefore, it is better to immediately check the DME number and Motronic version according to this table
The DME Motronic unit is located behind the top lining of the small box.
In my case, it is a DME Motronic 1.3 unit with the number 0 261 200 173.


ETM wiring diagram for E30 with M20V25 1987 for the US market:


As you can see, two wires go to the CHECK ENGINE lamp:
1) green-white - power when the ignition is on from fuse #10 7.5A through twisting S212
2) brown (1988 - gray with diode, from 1989 - gray) - control signal from pin 15 of DME Motronic, through pin 12 of the underhood connector C101.
Everything is quite simple, but we start by checking the C101 underhood connector for a contact and a 12-pin wire.
Pinout of connector C101:


We remove the rubber band from the connector and look for the desired wire (indicated by the red arrow):


If there is a brown (or gray) wire on pin 12 of C101, you need to "ring" it to pin 15 of the DME Motronic1.3 connector (circled in the picture and the tester probe is installed in it):


If it "rings", then the task is simplified and there are chances that it will work :)
If not, then it is more difficult - you still need to pull the wire yourself from pin 15 of the ECU to pin 12 of C101. But it is better to immediately connect a light bulb to pin 15 of the ECU and to any "plus", turn on the ignition and quickly and sharply press the gas pedal to the floor 5 times, as described in the instructions above. If the lamp does not blink, then there will be no point in tidying up the wires - most likely, the problem is in an inappropriate ECU.
Next, you need to install a 12-pin "mother" contact with a brown-black wire, cross-section 0.5 mm, in the corresponding part of the C101 connector (circled in red in the photo):


12 pin "Papa" - factory brown (or gray)
12 pin "mother" - installed brown and black

We connect the connector, pull the brown-black wire through the rubber insert in the motor shield, and lead it to the instrument panel with a small margin in length.
Next, you need to pass the power cord. Power when the ignition is on comes from fuse #10. Scroll S212, judging by the ETM, is located in the scythe that runs along the door, next to the driver's seat. We lead the green-white wire to the instrument panel with a small margin in length. I immediately fed these wires into the main wiring harness. We connect a lamp to the wires, the same as in the ABS control lamp or torpedo illumination. Just in case, I wrapped the wires in the original insulation.


There are three orange and green reserve cells (used on diesel engines and automatic transmissions) on the instrument panel. We insert the lamp cartridge into one of them, where it holds better, because they are of different shapes:


We collect everything and check the work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixtLORLLHdc

The CHECK ENGINE function worked immediately and code 1444 flashes clearly - no errors!
Who did not understand - a long flash at first and then is a "pause", and short flashes between "pauses" are error codes. All codes will flash in a circle until the ignition is turned off. In my case, 1444 flashes in a circle - no errors.
It would seem - everything is fine! ) But, as you can see in the video, the lamp lights up after turning on the ignition and does not go out after starting the engine, but begins to flicker. During the day it is not so noticeable, but in the evening this constant flickering is stressful. As I said above, the ETM schematic for 1988 has a diode in the lamp circuit on the gray wire, going from the lamp to the DME Motronic 1.3.


A note on the schematic reads: "Diode installed as part of service information."
The idea arose that it is probably needed in order to avoid this flickering during engine operation. Although, looking at the diagram for its installation, there were doubts that this would help... But anyway, I took a diode from an old alarm and installed it according to the ETM diagram for 1988.
It did not help - the lamp also flickered with the engine running. If you put the diode upside down, naturally, the lamp does not light at all.
How to avoid this annoying flickering of the lamp, except to put a button in its circuit and turn it off - I do not know. Unless you get used to it and don't pay attention to it! :)
After a few days of tests, the CHECK ENGINE started flashing a different code - just 1.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRukyC7j8N8

In the decryption file, in another table, it is there, 1 is an error when diagnosing DME. In the first table, there is a similar code for the same error - 1211. Most likely, it is the same thing, but its meaning is not completely clear, because there are no changes in the operation of the engine, in dynamics, in fuel consumption. Judging by the information on the Internet, this error appears occasionally in many people, and the reason for its appearance is not reliably known and it does not have any consequences. This error can be reset by running the check test and while the CHECK ENGINE light is flashing, fully depress the gas pedal and hold it for approximately 10 seconds. After that, the lamp will stop flashing and just burn. We turn off the ignition and repeat the test - now the lamp will flash 1444 - no errors. If this error is not reset, then, judging by its description in the tables, the DME unit needs to be replaced.
To make sure that this feature is fully functional, I ran another test with a known bug. I disconnected the connector from the air flow meter, started the engine and waited until Motronic "understood" this and "suspected" something was wrong :) The idle started to jump, the engine to shake. Turned off and started the test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW562o5pbIg

As you can see in the video, CHECK ENGINE detected an air flow meter error and code 1215 – Air Mass/Volume Sensor – is clearly flashing.
This error cannot be reset by holding down the gas pedal. To reset, you need to disconnect the battery or reset it with a special tester or wait until it resets itself after 60 engine starts without this error. I chose the first option :) After resetting, code 1444 appeared again - no errors.
That is, the option is fully functional.

While I was connecting the power to the lamp, I noticed that from the same coil S212, the power goes to both the reversing lamps and the seat belt lamp, which I wrote about above.


So now, I decided to add another reverse control lamp to the instrument panel ;) This is the second lamp in the photo above.
Ran another green-white wire and a blue-white wire from reverse light switch connector C301 to the dash. These wires also immediately feed into the main wiring harness.
It will be necessary to make appropriate icons for these lamps.

And one more lamp - a control lamp for the trailer's turn indicators. I already wrote that I bought an original towbar, even two - a regular one and one with a removable hook. I will probably write about this in detail later. But I will definitely not cut the rear apron of the BBS for the sake of installing a towbar. I also installed only a relay and a lamp :) It is necessary to use all the connectors to the maximum! :)


A relay with an additional contact is installed instead of the usual turn signal relay, one pin is added to its connector, and the "ground" terminal of the lamp is screwed at point G200. The lamp is inserted into the provided place in the instrument panel under the speedometer.


There is one more empty space left in the dashboard for a lamp, but I haven't figured out what to plug in there yet! :)

[The_Glory]

Collection_83. Additional options BSK (Active check control)

Some E30s were equipped with an on-board control system BSK (Active check control). They were mainly cars with 6-cylinder engines. There were different versions of this system, but I have its top version, which was only available for the US and Japanese market. It is distinguished by additional four lamps on a red field, which are absent in the basic version, and inscriptions in English.


For the European market, the top variant was only for diesel E28. It looks like this:


Additional functions could be in various combinations, depending on the configuration of the machine. I also have the simplest option.


There are four additional lamps on the board.


But the implementation of contacts is rather strange...


I installed it a long time ago, but only now did the wiring. My old photo.


So, additional BSK (Active check control) options in order:
1. Driver's seat belt and ignition key control lamp - for the US and Japanese market
2. The driver's airbag control lamp
3. Oxygen sensor control lamp (lambda probe) - for the US market
4. Catalyst overheating control lamp - for the Japanese market

Since these options were not available for the European market, we had to implement them on our own. First, you need to add the necessary wires to the BSK block connector. To do this, I made a defoamer. Additional option wires are highlighted in color.


Next, in order.

1. Driver's seat belt control lamp.

The complete set looks like this (photo from the Internet):


Of all this, I only had the on-board computer gong with two connectors (for the USA) and the BSK unit itself. I did the wiring myself, in accordance with the ETM scheme.


With the exception of the ignition switch control terminal. It is obvious that a European castle is not suitable for this. Maybe one day I will find an American one...
The BSK panel has not yet been installed, as the ceiling cladding has not been installed.


I haven't found the timer relay yet, I'll probably order a new one while it's still available.


The connector for it is installed under connector C302, to the right of the window comfort relay.


The driver's seat belt lock with the limiter will probably also have to be ordered new, or bought in the USA.


Or do it yourself - I bought a lock from newer models, I'll try to rearrange the end cap from it to my lock.
And so far, only the wiring connector is connected to it.


We connect the wiring to the second gong connector of the on-board computer.


As if everything is simple and should work ;)

2. Driver's airbag control lamp

I wrote about the safety pillow last time - I will not repeat it.

3. Oxygen sensor control lamp (lambda probe)

An interesting option for the US market. I found information about it on the Internet, so I don't know how reliable it is :) People write that a special fuse is installed in the speedometer, which trips every 30 thousand miles, and turns on this lamp. This signals that it is time to check the operation of the lambda probe. This lamp has no electrical connection with the lambda probe itself.

The fuse is placed here.




To implement this option, you need to add one wire to the BSK connector (pin 5), and connect it to the green connector of the instrument panel C6 to the O2S pin, according to the ETM diagram.


I already mentioned the green connector earlier. This is an additional connector that can be installed on any E30 dashboard. It looks like this:


All his pins are signed on the board.


There are only 5 "tracks" on the board with contacts for connecting to the speedometer:


1) Track V - this pin goes on the green case on the left to two identical parallel 1-pin connectors (V), which are not found anywhere in the ETM schematics. Therefore, I have not yet managed to find out what is connected there.

2) Track Tempo - speed signal from the speedometer, this contact goes to the green housing on the right to three identical parallel 1-pin connectors (A).

Additional options were connected to these connectors:
- cruise control;
- automatic transmission with electronic control;
- standard audio system with automatic volume level adjustment, depending on the speed of movement;
- standard telephone with automatic volume level adjustment, depending on the speed of movement;
All three connectors are parallel, so it is not important which option to connect to which of the three connectors.

3) Track 31 - usually marked as "ground", this pin goes to the green case on the right, to the same three connectors as the Tempo track. But judging by the board - this track is not used at all, because there are no pins on it either on the side of the speedometer or on the side of the connectors - they are all "muted" on the board.

4) Track O2S - mileage signal from the speedometer, this contact goes to the green housing on top of the first pin of two identical parallel 2-pin connectors (O2S).

5) Track 15 - this is usually how the +12V power supply is marked, this pin goes to the green case from above, to the second pin of the same two connectors as the O2S track.
But judging by the board - the right 2-pin connector is not used at all, because there are no pins on the side of the connectors - they are "muted" on the board on both tracks, respectively. An additional BSK option is connected to the left 2-pin connector - lambda-probe control. But this option was only available on machines for the US and Japanese market.

Connecting the green C6 connector to the speedometer looks like this:


It can be seen that, in fact, only one pin out of four is connected to an ordinary speedometer for the European market - Tempo(A). There are no corresponding contacts for all other pins on the speedometer board.

That is, they are not used in the European version. Apparently, for their use, at least, a speedometer from the "American" instrument panel is required.
And the European version only uses three 1-pin connectors (A) to the right of the Tempo track.

But I plugged it in! :)


All that remains is to find an American dashboard to make it work... :)

4. Catalyst overheating control lamp

This option was only available for the Japanese market. It controls the temperature of the catalyst. Information and all photos are taken from the Internet.
A sticker with a warning - do not park on dry grass when the catalytic converter is overheated, so as not to cause a fire.


Temperature sensor in the catalyst


Thermal relay


I did not find an electrical diagram for this option. But I don't need it, since I removed the catalyst a long time ago. I plan to use this lamp for other purposes - to control motor overheating. I will connect it to the air conditioner fan temperature sensor. But more on that later in the air conditioner entry.

So, the wiring is done for all four lights, but none of them will work yet... :) But eventually, I'll find the right parts, install them, and everything will work! ;)

[The_Glory]

I would never bet that anyone would install airbag stuff just for the look. Truly funny and completionist.

Well, I already have a concept - full options! ;)
Although, in principle, if I install a steering wheel with an airbag, and connect all the wiring, then it should work. Maybe with a standard steering column it won't be as safe or effective as the designers intended, but the airbag will work. Well, in fact, this option is not completely meaningless and decorative. I just won't use it. ;)

[roguetoaster]

I would never bet that anyone would install airbag stuff just for the look. Truly funny and completionist.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_82. ETK_65_Electrical parts of NPB (part 1 wiring)

A long time ago, somewhere on the Internet, I read that on early E30 models, the airbag was connected to the C302 accessory connector on IKLMNO foams. But I never found documentary confirmation of this information either in ETM or in EBA. Apparently, it was not written about the E30, or it is a mistake. In fact, a separate orange C240 connector is used for this. I didn't have such a connector, so I still led this wiring to C302 on the IKLMNO pins - these connectors are similar in shape. Why did I do that? I don't know... probably just "for beauty" :) I perfectly understand that in order to fully install the driver's airbag, you need to completely replace the entire steering control - from the steering wheel to the steering rack, including the steering column and its switches. In addition, weld a special metal overlay-amplifier to the tunnel for fastening the steering column spacer, and install a bunch of other specific little things. Doubt I'll ever do that... Especially since I don't like the airbag steering wheel design, especially the early years, and I'll be installing either a wooden momo steering wheel or a BBS steering wheel.
So, for me, this option will be exclusively "decorative" - orange on blue looks beautiful! :)
And only the electrical part will be installed. I bought it from a friend, nearby and not expensive ;)
Electric parts of the airbag




Part No. 1 - airbag ECU
Part #2 - airbag capacitor. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have it. Or maybe it's that rectangular "insert" in the ECU...?


Detail No. 3 - wiring of the front sensors of the airbag
Part No. 4 - shock sensors - 2 pcs.

Part No. 5 - airbag safety switch. Never seen it on cars, not even in a photo. Perhaps it was installed additionally, or only in certain years of production.
Part No. 6 - fastening of the left front sensor. Apparently, it is used only together with detail #5.
Part No. 7 - fastening of the right front sensor.
Part No. 8 - special sensor mounting bolts - 4 pcs.
Part No. 9 - bracket for the sensor connector - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - safety switch mounting screw - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - bracket. I'm not sure, but it could be the metal body bracket that the shock sensors bolt to.
Parts No. 12...No. 18 are not used.

For some reason, the diagram does not show the wiring to the pillow itself in the steering wheel. I have it.


1 - power connector C240 (in my case - C302 foam IKLMNO)
2.1, 2.2 - wiring connectors to the steering wheel
3.1, 3.2 - wiring connectors for shock sensors
4 - airbag connector in the steering wheel
5.1, 5.2 - shock sensor connectors

So, if you don't have the wiring for the airbag, but you want to install it, then you need to connect the power for it to the C240 connector. It's just.
It is necessary, according to the ETM, to add three power wires from the ignition switch connector (C200), one "ground" wire to the airbag control lamp on the BSK panel, and one wire to the diagnostic connector.

1	BR/BK Brown-Black	0.5mm2	mass of counter. lamps on BSK (7)
2			Not used
3	RD Red	0.5mm2	BAT+ constant power from C200 (9)
4	VI Purple	0.5mm2	ACC power from C200 (4)
5	BK/YL black-yellow	0.5mm2	RUN power from C200 (10)
6	WT/BK white-black	0.5mm2	С101 (16), diagnostics (6)

I routed these wires to the C302 accessory connector on the IKLMNO pins, which are not normally used.




The airbag ECU will be connected here. But without the pillow itself, the indicator light on the BSK panel will probably be on all the time, so I guess I won't connect it :) We'll see...
We pass the wiring of the sensors through the rubber insert in the motor shield - now all its holes are used. We fix it with a sealant. After installing the ECU, connect this wiring to it.


We lead the connector of the left sensor to the left wing.

By the way, I am not sure that it will be possible to install it in the right place - another additional option will be installed there... Maybe I will think of something...
The connector of the right sensor is brought out through the motor shield to the right wing.


Airbag wiring is installed.


I will install the ECU and sensors a little later.

That's it, I came up with a silly and decorative option! :)

Next time I will write about useful small electrical options that will work. ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_81. Electric curtain (part 1 wiring)

So, the wiring of all standard options connected to the connector of additional equipment C302 is laid and connected. The first test - she is alive!!! :)


Burnt only one fuse! :) There was a short circuit in the rear lamp. Replaced the lamp - everything is OK. I also replaced a couple of lamps in the buttons of the rear ESP. Only the central lock does not work... we need to figure it out... But later.
For now, I will tell you about one of the rarest options for the E30 - the rear electric curtain. It was of two types - with a central guide (up to the year 87) and with side levers (from the year 88). Both are very rare. The curtain could be of several colors. There were similar curtains on E23 and E28 - they differed, apparently, in size. A teammate had such an E28 curtain.




I even considered buying it, but I don't really like the look of it, especially its center rail. The appearance is not very aesthetic, even a little archaic... Similar curtain for E30 (photo from the Internet):




Factory numbers of all model variants and colors (although for some reason they are not all in ETK)


Since 1988, the design of the blind has been changed - instead of the central guide, a mechanism with side levers was installed, as on all modern electric blinds. Such an option is even more difficult to find. I saw her only on the Internet in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng2itydpbEI&ab_channel=E30Passion

Her number is 82 11 9 430 230 - thanks to the author for this information.

Judging by the EBA factory instructions, both curtains are installed on top of the standard rear shelf, and are connected to the cigarette lighter wires.




So, why am I writing all this - I had the opportunity to buy the first option, but it is with E28 and I don't really like it visually, and the second option looks better, but it is practically impossible to find it. Well, I decided to make an electric curtain myself! :) Analogous to more modern electric curtains E32 and E34. Maybe it's a "kolkhoz", but I hope it will look good! ;)
For this, I bought a donor shelf with a mechanical curtain - I will experiment on it so as not to spoil mine.




I am still thinking about choosing an electric curtain... In fact, we need a curtain from any BMW model that will fit in size... we'll see...

I also bought an E32/E34 electric curtain button, an E34 donor audio wiring, and an E34 electric sunroof donor wiring.


The wiring diagram for the E32 seemed optimal to me - I started making the wiring harness for the E30 based on it.
From the audio wiring, I only needed the power wiring - we remove everything unnecessary.


We also remove everything unnecessary from the wiring of the electric sunroof, leaving only the button connector and the necessary wires according to the ETM scheme. We weave all this into a harness of the right length, and we get such a "custom" electric curtain wiring for the E30.


1 - DC power connector C302 pin A (I added this pin myself)
2 - ignition on power connector RUN C302 pin P (I added this pin myself)
3 - electric curtain button connector
4.1 - connector for illumination of the electric curtain button
4.2 - the corresponding parallel connector for lighting the button of the electric curtain
5 - "mass" terminal G300
6 - electric curtain connector

So, as for the connection, I believe that my option is even better than the factory connection to the cigarette lighter. I already wrote earlier that I added pin P for heating the rear seats, parallel to the standard pin U for heating the front seats. This power does not go directly, but through the unloading relay K5, as well as for electric windows. Pin A was added for DC power, in parallel with the radio's stock V DC power pin. On the wiring of the electric blind, I added connector housings that correspond to the "code" in terms of their shape even later. Brown-white for the rear heating (corresponding to the color of the wire for the front heating), and the corresponding parallel black connector from it, for connecting the electric curtain. Black-blue and black on the electric curtain.


We connect the black connectors together, and connect the colored ones to the corresponding C302 pins.


We lay the wiring along the left threshold, and under the driver's seat we bring out the button on the console.


In the same place, we connect the backlight to the connector for the backlight of the rear heating buttons and the phone, which comes from the backlight of the rear ashtray.
We screw the mass terminal under the rear seat at point G300.


Next, we lead the wiring to the back shelf, where the electric curtain will be connected (for now, only the appropriate connector is there).


The wiring is connected, it remains only to choose and install the curtain. ;)

P.S.
In the C302 connector, pin F was normally present, to which, judging by the EBA, the power supply of the standard immobilizer for the M40 engine is connected. Since my engine is not M40, this pin was not used. The power on it is only in the RUN position, so I decided to connect a video recorder to it. Now, during martial law, it is forbidden to use them, but one day this war will end... and I hope that I will live to that time and collect my "thirty"... So then it will come in handy.
I connected it through the universal socket of the cigarette lighter.


Then I will fix it somewhere under the torpedo, and I will lay the wire along the left pillar to the interior mirror, together with the electric sunroof wiring.


Pins B, C and G were left unused in the C302 connector. I added them myself, but I haven't figured out what to connect there yet! :) It was possible to connect a phone to the BC, but I didn't think about it right away, and made a separate connector for it. I didn't want to remake it. So maybe someday they will be needed for something...
I will write about IKLMNO foams next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_80. ETK_66_Cruise control

This option is covered in a separate section in ETK
Distance support, cruise control

Unit
Cruise Control System


I don't know why, but this is still duplicated in a similar section for restyling:
Cruise Control System


This option was also available as a kit for equipping:
Cruise Control


Systems for before restyling and after restyling have not significant differences. There are also differences between manual transmission and automatic transmission.
I have a kit for restyling for a manual transmission. But with a servo attachment for restyling.



Part #1 - ECU (65 71 1 386 189). It is installed in the torpedo, above the box for small things.
Part #2 - ECU bracket (65 71 1 373 332)
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw 4.2x13 (07 11 9 904 310) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - servo drive (65 71 1 373 681)
Part No. 5 - servo drive bracket (41 14 1 902 591). In my case, a restyling bracket (65 71 1 386 226) is used.
Details No. 6...10 - mounting bracket
Detail 11 - steering wheel cruise control switch. There are several types, with inscriptions in different languages. It also differs before restyling and after restyling. After the restyling, a gradual change in speed is available in steps of 1 km/h. I have an option before restyling, with inscriptions in English.
Part No. 12 - screw M5x16 (07 11 9 906 415) - 1 pc. For fixing the switch.
Part No. 13 - cruise control wiring (61 12 1 372 793)



1 - steering wheel switch connector
2 - clutch pedal limit switch connector
3 - "mass" terminal G200
4 - servo drive connector
5 - connector C302 foam R and S
6 - not used (for automatic transmission)
7 - speed signal connector - any of the three identical pins in the green connector on the instrument panel C6 (Tempo)
8 - cruise control ECU connector

Part No. 14 - servo drive cable (65 71 1 371 394)
Part #15 - not used
Part No. 16 - servo cable support (13 54 1 747 519)
Part No. 17 - plastic cable nut (35 41 1 156 139)
Detail #18, 19 - not used
Part No. 20 - limit switch of the clutch pedal (61 31 1 362 809)
Part No. 21 - clutch pedal switch bracket (65 71 1 370 487)
Part No. 22 - bolt M6x12 (07 11 9 915 033) - 1 pc.
Part No. 23 - green connector of the instrument panel (62 11 1 372 218)
Part No. 24 - cable ties L=292MM/B=4.8MM (61 13 1 377 134) - 5 pcs.

We start by installing the servo. Before restyling, for its installation, you need to drill three holes in the body, behind the left headlight. I had just such a bracket, but I didn't want to drill holes. That's why I bought a new restyling bracket that screws near the air filter housing - it's more convenient and easier, in my opinion. We fasten the servo drive, pull its cable to the throttle. After installing the motor, I will connect it to the throttle lever. The cable is attached to the body support with a bracket (35 41 1 120 354) under the support bearing nut. For some reason, the bracket in ETK is indicated only on the scheme for restyling (part #19). It is no longer available, so I made it myself. There is a place for this bracket on the cable - a white pad.


We lay the wiring from the servo drive along the left wing and through the rubber insert in the engine shield we bring it into the cabin. We connect it to connector 4 of the cabin wiring of the cruise control No. 13.


We connect connector 5 to C302 to pins R and S. This is the power supply and signal of the brake lights on. We screw the "mass" terminal 3 to point G200 under the steering wheel.




We install the cruise control switch on the steering column. To do this, you need to cut a hole in the plastic overlay according to the factory markings.


We connect it to connector 1 - in the photo, the upper connector on the steering column.


In the photo of the kit, the clutch pedal limit switch and its bracket are missing. This is because I installed it on the pedal assembly earlier when I assembled the pedals. This was more convenient than screwing it in place. So, connect connector 2 to the switch. On cars with an automatic transmission, a jumper is used instead.


We connect the speed signal connector 7 to any of the three identical pins in the green connector on the instrument panel C6 (Tempo). Now all three parallel pins are busy - cruise control, radio and phone. On cars with an automatic transmission with electronic control, the automatic transmission wiring is also connected here. Then this connector is inserted into the dashboard.


We lay the wiring to the right and connect it to connector 8 of the cruise control ECU. The computer unit will be fixed in the torpedo, above the box for small things after the interior is assembled.


Cruise control is set.

Therefore, all standard pins of the C302 connector are used, even one additional pin (P). But I "pro-upgraded" C302, so I will connect a few more connectors to it. ;)
About that next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_79. ETK_63_Adjusting the angle of inclination of the headlights

We return to the ETK section
Lighting devices

Unit
Headlight Aim Control


A long time ago, I installed restyling headlights with lenses and with actuators for adjusting their angle. I also installed a steering wheel cover with a regulator handle. But the tubes on the actuators and on the regulator were barbarically cut off. I recently bought a regulator with whole tubes - now I have a complete set, but of course it doesn't work. After assembling the machine, I will try to fill the tubes with antifreeze, seal the entire system and pump it. There is a description of this procedure on the Internet, although, as practice shows, its effect is not long-lasting and it needs to be repeated periodically. Or I'll buy a new set if it's still available. And for now, this option will remain "decorative" for me :)


Part No. 1 - headlight adjustment hydraulic drive (63 12 1 370 959). The set includes two actuators, two tubes with a rubber seal and a regulator handle. In the photo, the actuators are missing, as they are installed on the headlights. I will connect them after installing the headlights.
Part No. 2 - regulator backlight cover (63 12 1 370 950)
Part No. 3 - regulator housing (63 12 1 370 961)
Part No. 4 - mounting bracket (63 12 1 372 619)
Part No. 5 - fastening bolt (63 13 1 370 849) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - regulator mounting screw (07 11 9 902 236) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - wiring of the backlight of the regulator handle (61 12 1 372 743)
Part #8 - backlight lamp 0.36 WATT (61 13 8 360 844) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 9 - headlight angle adjustment kit (63 12 9 060 602).





Housing No. 3 is inserted into a special hole in the casing, and is screwed from the middle with bracket No. 4 and bolts No. 5. The backlight cover with lamp holder No. 2 simply snaps into the housing.


We pass the tubes through a special hole in the rubber insert on the motor shield, and fix the rubber seal. We lay the tubes together with other wiring along the left wing to the headlights.


The tubes for something have different colors - the left is blue-green, and the right is white. We stretch them to the headlights. After installing the headlights, I will connect their fittings to the drives on the dipped beam headlights.


Wiring of the backlight of the regulator handle:


1 - connector C302 pin E, power from the backlight of the devices.
2 - terminal "mass" G200.
3.1, 3.2 - illumination lamps of the regulator handle



We connect the wiring to connector C302 on pin E, and screw the "mass" terminal at point G200 under the steering wheel.


It remains to screw the regulator to the housing, insert the lamps into the cover and install the steering wheel cover. But it will be after the assembly of the cabin.


The next option is cruise control.

[The_Glory]

The addition of that sticker to the antenna really was a nice touch.

Everything should be beautiful :)

[roguetoaster]

The addition of that sticker to the antenna really was a nice touch.

[The_Glory]

Collection_78. ETK_65_Antenna accessories

So, about the antenna. There were several types of them - mechanical or electric, with different cables and connectors, different fasteners, with a chrome or black rod. I have already written about the installation of an electric antenna before, so I will write briefly, without unnecessary details and numbers.
Until 1985, antennas were with threaded connectors.
Antenna accessories


Detail #1 - mechanical antenna. We do not consider its details.
Item #3 - Hirschmann Auta 6000 powered antenna.
Detail No. 5 - chrome or black (shadow line) telescopic element.
Detail #7 - wiring and antenna cable. It can be with a threaded or plug-in connector for the antenna.
Item No. 8 - antenna connector adapter
Item No. 10 is a special key for attaching the antenna
Part No. 11 - the antenna fastening nut
Item No. 12 - antenna repair kit

After 1985, the antennas were with plug-in connectors.
Antenna accessories


Basically, everything is the same, but there are two types of antenna cable - with different connectors to the radio - "father" or "mother", for different radios.


Part No. 13 is a cable "father", for later models of radios.
Part No. 14 - "mother" cable, for earlier radio models (top left in the photo).
Adapters for both types of cable were also provided.
Part No. 8 - adapter "mom-dad" (65 12 1 394 202)


Part No. 16 - adapter "father-mother" (65 12 1 388 950)


Original adapters cost 18-20 Euro - unreasonably expensive, in my opinion. That's why I bought analogues at a price of 0.5 Euro. In addition, analogs are made in one housing, without additional cable connections - this is even better for the quality of reception.


The antenna itself is not in the photo - I could not find the Hirschmann Auta 6000. But kits were available for equipping in the accessories section.
It could be a set of mechanical antenna - we do not consider it.
Mechanical antenna


Hirschmann Auta 6000 electric antenna kit. In principle, the same as shown above.
Automatic antenna


Electric antenna set Hirschmann Hit Auta 5091. This is a more universal model that was installed on different brands and models of cars.
Automatic antenna


I managed to find just such an antenna, although not a complete set, and in a non-working condition. The antenna was repaired, cleaned, equipped with the original relay and wiring with a cable, a hose for drainage, made a bracket for its attachment instead of a universal mounting plate.


Briefly about the repair. Most likely, the telescopic element was replaced in the antenna, but it is a little shorter, so the extreme positions of the element did not coincide with the position of the limit switches, and the fuse constantly blew. We disassemble the case, remove the plastic covers, remove the gear from the engine so that the telescopic element can be moved freely by hand.


On the other hand, remove the rubber gasket and the limit switch cover.


The point is to choose the size of the sector that breaks the contacts in the extreme positions of the telescopic element. In words it is difficult, but in fact everything is simple - you move the telescope, count the revolutions of the gears, and mark the extreme positions. To increase the contact gap sector, I pasted a piece of black oracle - it works fine.


Next, for the antenna to work, you need a relay to reverse the polarity of the contacts, which was not included in the kit. On later models, it is already built into the antenna, and on this model, it is taken out separately. First, I made it from two standard relays according to the following scheme:


In theory, everything should work. But often, especially at the moment of starting the engine with the radio on, both relays did not work synchronously, but one with a delay of a fraction of a second. This was enough to cause a short circuit and blow the fuse. And when I ran out of original fuses, I stupidly installed a Chinese fuse - all the wiring of those two relays burned out, it's good that the car didn't burn down. I do not recommend this option.
I bought an original polarity reversal relay in a radio store and assembled it according to the manufacturer's original scheme.


Relay


unpinning


Scheme of work


In the wiring, I replaced the antenna cable for earlier radio models with a "mother" connector.


1 - connector of the antenna cable to the radio ("mother")
2.1 - antenna power control connector (turns on and off when the radio is turned on and off)
2.2 - parallel connector suitable for 2.1 (for powering the audio amplifier)
3 - connector for constant power supply of electric antenna C302 pin Z
4 - electrical antenna connector
5 - connector of the antenna cable to the electric antenna

I didn't have a regular antenna at all, so I had to make a hole in the wing to install it. The dimensions of the opening are specified in the EBA factory instructions.


By default, this antenna is attached with a universal mounting plate. I made a bracket for it - it is more reliable and neater in appearance. I am attaching the drawing, maybe someone will need it too.


The bracket is screwed to the antenna body in the hole provided there.
We connect the wiring and antenna cable to the antenna. By the way, in the previous topic I wrote about the antenna adapter. So in this case, we connect the antenna cable from the radio to the upper connector of the adapter, and connect the cable from the middle connector of the adapter to the antenna. The telephone antenna cable is connected to the lower connector.


We insert the antenna into the hole, put all the washers, spacers, rubber gasket, and decorative overlays shown in the photo and fasten with a nut. At the bottom, we screw the bracket into the hole on the edge of the wheel arch together with the "mass" terminal. I fixed the relay to the antenna body with a tie. We put a hose on the lower drain fitting of the body and lead it outside, through the ventilation grill in the rear wing. The hose was fixed with a tie to the water drain hose from the hatch.
I also made a sticker on the antenna body, because the old one was completely worn off.


We pull the wiring and cable into the cabin and along the left threshold. The red wire connects to connector C302 on the Z pin.


But the ESP comfort relay is already connected there. Therefore, connect the antenna connector to the corresponding relay connector with a red-yellow wire.


We connect the white wire to the corresponding connector of the audio wiring near the radio. We lead the connector of the antenna cable to the radio.


The antenna is installed.


P.S.
Maybe later, after assembling the car, I will buy a new antenna with a black telescopic element, if it is still available.
There are also analogues from other manufacturers.