E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

Finally, it came to installing the fan and condenser.
On cars without air conditioning, a plastic diffuser is installed in front of the radiator. It comes in several types, depending on the model and year of manufacture. But, if there is an air conditioner, it is not installed, since there is a fan and a condenser in its place. In this case, only the side shields are installed.
So, first you need to install the fan side shields. They are shown in ETK in the body section - I already mentioned them then, but at that time I had not yet bought them. Now I have them. Now we are talking only about them.
Front body parts




Part No. 6 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 8 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

The same shields in ETK are also shown in the body equipment section, where I also mentioned them.
Air Duct




Part No. 6 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 11 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

There is an unexpected nuance with the fastening. Back then, I ordered original clips D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964), I had to take the whole package, although only 4 pieces are needed.




And these clips, surprisingly, did not fit! The holes in the body are larger than the clips - 8 mm in diameter, and the clips did not hold the shields at all.
I had to buy larger universal clips for 8 mm holes.


In the photo, universal ones are on top, original ones are on the bottom.


The shields are wound on top of the body bracket and fixed with two clips each.
Install the right shield.


We install the left shield.


We lay all the wiring through the cutout in the left shield and through the hole in the right shield.


Now you can install the fan and condenser.
Condenser, fan




Part #1 - capacitor R12/R134A (64 53 8 391 509) - 1 pc. I use an analogue of Behr Mahle (AC159000S)

Part No. 2 (No. 3+No. 4) - additional fan (64 54 1 376 973) - 1 pc. I use the original BOSCH fan.

Part #3 - BOSCH impeller (17 40 1 362 100) - 1 pc. Impeller with 5 blades.
Part #4 - BOSCH fan housing (17 40 1 371 261) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - BOSCH resistor (17 40 1 373 177) - 1 pc. I use a GM analog (94812213) - I wrote about it in a previous post.

Part #6 - double thermal switch 91/99CEL (61 31 1 378 073) - 1 pc. Instead of two separate thermal switches, I use a double one.
Part No. 7 - sealing ring A14X20-VF (07 11 9 963 227) - 1 pc.

Part No. 8 - rubber cushion (17 11 1 150 984) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rivet with spacer sleeve (17 11 1 150 983) - 2 pcs. Not used.
Part No. 10 - sheet nut (16 11 1 152 613) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X19 (07 11 9 916 9700 - 2 pcs.

Part #12 - nameplate "Klimaanlage" 1075G (64 50 1 380 982) - 1 pc. "Freon R12" sticker - I will glue it later, the whole set together.

Part No. 13 - rubber sleeve (17 40 1 362 128) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 14 - M5 bolt (17 40 1 354 522) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 15 - spacer washer (17 40 1 354 523) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 16 - spring ring B5 (07 11 9 933 060) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 17 - M5 nut (07 11 9 922 038) - 3 pcs.


The double thermal switch (#6) on 3 contacts and its sealing ring (#7) will be installed in the main radiator, so I will write about them later.




As I already said, there are no lower rubber pads on the new capacitor. They are in good condition on my old capacitor, and I didn't have time to wait for a new one, so I just glued them onto the new capacitor.
By the way, according to ETK, they are fixed with clips (#9), but neither the old original nor the new capacitors have holes for them. There are also no holes in the pillows - they were glued. Apparently, clips were used on earlier versions.


So, we glue two lower pillows (#8) and insert three rubber bushings (#13) into the brackets.


We screw the fan with three bolts, through washers and rubber bushings to the condenser in this position.


We remove the plugs from the flanges. By the way, the condenser was not under high pressure - probably this is a "guarantee" of tightness.
Ready to install.


We insert sheet nuts into special holes on the body. We insert a fan with a condenser from the inside of the body.


We level it so that it rests on the bottom with pillows in the body, and fasten it with two self-tapping screws.




From above, there is not a large gap to the body.


From below, the fan housing becomes very tight to the oil cooler tube.


We pass the hoses through the hole in the shield and screw them to the flanges with new sealing rings. The tube had to be bent a little. It is necessary to tighten very carefully - the fastening of the flanges on the Chinese capacitor is not very reliable...


Now you can fully connect and fix the dehumidifier - we screw the tube, hose and sensor to it. The tube had to be bent a little.


Here again there is a nuance of the Chinese analogue of the dryer (Behr Mahle) - instead of three fasteners, it has only two, but only one fits into the factory clips on the body. The second does not match. Well, that's it... he'll behave normally anyway, but...


The hose that goes to the compressor is of two types - with a short metal tube or with a long one. I have a long one. Therefore, it was necessary to replace the hose clamp with a smaller one. Maybe it depends on the type of compressor. I will install the compressor later, then I will look, maybe I will have to change the hose... we will see...
The hose had scuff marks on the rib of the spar, so I installed a rubber pad on the rib - the same as the one on the left spar under the fuel hose. I think it will not be superfluous.


Connect the fan wiring connector to the air conditioner wiring under the left headlight.


The fan and condenser are installed and connected.

Now you can finish assembling the front part of the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I chose a capacitor.

The air conditioner, of course, included the old original condenser. Everyone recommends immediately replacing it with a new one. I was choosing between Nissens and Behr Mahle. But I ordered Behr Mahle - because in the photo it was exactly the same as the original.


But a miracle did not happen, and the usual "new" Chinese radiator arrived! Exactly the same as Nissens, only a little more expensive. :)


But with the nameplate Behr Mahle)


I didn't really like it for some reason... So, just in case, I decided to check the old radiator. I screwed on the hoses, with a plug and a valve.


And pumped up 6 atmospheres. It was scary to pump more so that the bolt wouldn't fly out! ) And even more than eight, the compressor still does not pump.


I put it in water, held it for a while - it holds the pressure, there are no bubbles! ) That is, it is intact and sealed.


Let's compare. The original one is wider in terms of "honeycombs" - 42x33 cm, against 37x33 cm in the new one.




The old one is also much larger in thickness.


Their construction is completely different. In the old one, two tubes run parallel in a "snake" across the entire plane of the radiator. And in the new one, at first it seemed to me that the horizontal thin tubes were simply all parallel - what a fool! ))


But then I looked more closely and noticed that the vertical side tubes have baffles.




The liquid also circulates in a "snake", but through several tubes in parallel (11-9-7-5). In the photo, I showed the circulation diagram.


People say that with such a scheme, circulation and heat transfer are even better than with the scheme of the old radiator. I want to believe that it is so... But I decided to install a new Chinese radiator after all! )
The upper mounts were poorly riveted, so they had to be drilled and re-riveted. The lower mount is normal, but there were no rubber pads on it - you need to glue them from the old radiator, or order new original ones.




I have already primed and painted the fasteners so that they do not look homemade, from roofing tin) I also cleaned and painted the old radiator.




Don't say anything, but the old original radiator looks better and more reliable!...




Especially the fastening of pipe fittings.






I installed the fasteners and put them in the box - there will be a spare.


Well, the new radiator, with a newly riveted and painted fastener, is ready for installation.










By the way, the Chinese did not completely paint the radiator itself, we had to repaint it for them...
Well, I hope it will serve better than it looks...
Next, about the installation of the fan and condenser.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I did assemble the fan.

So, I remind you of the beginning of the story)
I didn't disassemble the first fan correctly, and now I can't put it back together because the impeller didn't come off.
I broke the second fan because the impeller did not come off.
The third fan already had a broken impeller, but it does not come off.
The fourth fan worked, but the bearing needs to be replaced. To do this, you need to remove the impeller... )

So, with determination, I unscrewed the nut... and the impeller came off with absolutely no effort! Just like most videos on YouTube! )) I don't know why I was unlucky three times, but the fourth time everything turned out well! ) Finally, the fan is successfully completely disassembled!


There was almost no corrosion inside, only dust and dirt.


The bearing is riveted in the top cover. We drill four rivets and remove the bearing.


Next, traditionally - cleaning, washing, sanding, painting.


The magnets hold very well on the case, so I did not remove them. "Brushes" are also in good condition, not worn.


By the way, compared to an early similar fan, there are not significant differences - the magnets are fixed differently, and there are two capacitors instead of one.


On the early wiring, the connector has flat contacts, and on the late wiring - with round ones.


On the early fan, the wiring is much shorter, since the connector is fixed directly on the fan housing.


There was no point in removing the rotor from the axis, I just cleaned it.




I painted the impeller because it was very worn. The blades on it are not located symmetrically. I read somewhere that this was done to reduce the noise from them. But I'm not sure if that's really the case.


By the way, does anyone know why the letters of the English alphabet are drawn on it in a circle?


The impeller is simply tightly seated on the axis with a bushing, and on top is locked with a washer under the nut. I do not understand why it is not removed on the first fan. Is the sleeve corrosion really that bad?




The aluminum body is sandblasted and painted. There is also an unclear point about it - in the photo you can see a cutout on the rear part of the rim of the case. I don't understand what he is for either.


There is a cutout on top - on the E30, nothing prevents him there. Is it possible that on other models something interferes or rests there...


I bought a new resistor - a similar one, produced by GM. With the GM part number (94812213), it is three times cheaper than the exact same Bosch resistor (3134503020), or four times cheaper than the same Bosch one ordered with the original BMW part number (17401373177).


The design and resistance (0.6 Ohm) are exactly the same. The only difference is one mounting hole instead of two. If desired, you can drill, but it is fixed perfectly anyway. I don't think it's worth paying more! ;)




I drilled holes for rivets with a diameter of 3 mm in the lid.


New bearing SKF 6001. They say that there are many Chinese fakes, so I ordered a bearing of European manufacture - France.




The old factory bearing was a NSK 6001. It didn't seize, but it was already completely dry, so it was very noisy.


So, tightly insert the bearing into the cover.


But we rivet with four 3x8 mm rivets. The rivets should not protrude too much so as not to catch the rotor and the impeller.




Lubricate the axis and bushing with grease, treat all contacts with a special spray, and wash the remains with anti-silicone.


We install the rotor.


We install a cover with a bearing on the axle and bolts. It is important to install the cover with the right side - riveted washer to the mount. Because I messed up at first and the cover jammed the rotor... )
Another nuance - there is one hole in the engine housing - it looks like a drain. Therefore, we put the engine on the body with this hole facing down.


In such a position.


We fasten the engine with three nuts. We fix the wiring with ties in the places provided for this.


Lubricate the sleeve (so that it can be removed again later, if necessary), and install the impeller.


We fix the position of the impeller on the axis so that the locking washer falls into the grooves on the impeller. We tighten the nut - LEFT thread! Lock the nut with one "eye" of the washer.


We install and connect a resistor to the wiring terminals. We fix the wiring with ties in the places provided for this.




We snap the connector body onto the foam.


The bracket on the fan housing is used to fix the connector only on the early wiring. In this case, it is not used.


The fan is ready for installation.




Checked - works at both speeds, almost silently.

I will try to collect my other fans later. At least one. Or maybe it will be possible to collect one more from two.
Next is the capacitor.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I searched for and broke fans.

So, I return again to the installation of the parts of the air conditioner, namely - the condenser and the fan. I'll start with the fan.
The air conditioner included such a fan - 7 blades, Canadian manufacturer Power Motion.
The condition is unknown, the appearance is so-so...








The first check showed that it was not working.
Another type of fan was available for the E30 - with 5 blades, made by the German manufacturer Bosch. They are more common on earlier cars. I read somewhere that they are more reliable and easier to repair. Now I can say that this is not so - there is no fundamental difference between them, except for the different design of the impeller and the number of blades on it. But then I decided to look for a Bosch fan, and surprisingly, I found it quite quickly. According to the seller - "it was working".... Its appearance did not inspire much hope either, but I still bought it.




It turned out that it was from a restyling car, and had a different connector, with flat contacts. But this is not a problem. And the problem is that it did not work at all! :)
Well, what! Now I have both types of fans and both are not working! :) Decided to repair Bosch - more repairable, yes! ))
The impeller didn't want to come off the axle, so I unscrewed the three nuts on the back side and thus "through the ass" disassembled it! It was a mistake.
The "brushes" were stuck in it due to dirt, so it did not work. Cleaned the brushes, sanded and painted the body.


The magnets did not hold well, the insulation was almost completely peeled off. I cut the insulation from the same material, glued and installed the magnets in the case.




I wanted to replace the bearing, but the impeller sits dead on the rotor axis and does not want to come off!


When trying to knock out the axle, I even slightly dislodged the thread... Now the nut does not tighten. By the way, there is a left thread!


I decided to assemble it just like that, without replacing the bearing. Painted the impeller, and then my mistake caught up with me. With the impeller, there is no access to the bolt heads to lock them and screw the motor to the fan housing!


No matter how hard I tried, it was in vain, because it was impossible to insert the bolts into the holes and fix them in order to tighten the nuts. Fiasco! ) It would be correct to first remove the impeller, and then disassemble the motor. And then collect in the reverse order. Now I know it! ;)
I put everything in a box and went to look for fans in a flea market again! )) Found, but from E34. I looked at ETK - there they say that they are the same for E30, E32, E34. OK, I'll take it!


I check - it works! But only at the second (maximum) speed. The resistor does not work. Yes, that's just a trifle!... I put it in the same box and put it off for "later". Later, in a flea market, I saw another identical fan from an E34. I bought it - there will be a spare! ;)




It has no resistor at all, so it also works only at maximum speed and the bearing hums a lot. I gladly put it in the same box and put it away again for "later"! :)

And now "then" has come! :) I took everything out of the box, put it on the table... And what do I see!? They are different in diameter! )


For E30, the diameter is 38 cm


For E34, the diameter is 41 cm


And ETK didn't tell me anything about it! ))) It was not necessary to trust her! )
Well, hope dies last...let's try it on...
First the fan for the E30


From above it becomes almost close to the body


From below, it becomes very tight between the body and the oil cooler


Now the fan for the E34
It does not fit at all from the top


If inserted from above, the oil radiator interferes.


Without the oil cooler, maybe it would fit if you redo the mounts for it. But this is not my option. Again a fiasco! Even double! ))

I remember my very first fan from the kit. :)
As it turned out, the problem was in the wiring and the resistor. Repaired the wiring, bought a new resistor, cleaned everything.


I check - it works, but only at maximum speed, and with a very strong crackle and crunch. Even with a new resistor, the first speed does not work, the resistor instantly heats up like an iron! I understand that it will not work like this for a long time, or the car will burn down.
Sorted it out. Well, how did I take it apart... broke the hell out of it!


Here, too, the impeller was not removed from the rotor axis. I had to knock it out with a hammer. I tried to beat carefully, but as a result - a cracked impeller


Broken rotor


Broken "brush" housing


The problem was that due to corrosion, the magnets fell away from the housing, rotated together with the rotor and jammed it.




And again I go to look for fans in a flea market! )))) Now only with a diameter of 38 cm)
Although I am lucky in the search! )) Found a fan for E30, again, according to the seller - "it was working" :) I bought it.


And still working! Of course, only at maximum speed. And the bearing hums. The resistor does not work.



And here it just farted again! )) A friend gave his old fan as a gift - exactly the same as the one I broke. But he is also already broken. :) The impeller is broken, but the motor works.


The resistor does not work - I'm already used to it! :) By the way, the resistor here is not the same as on the previous ones.


Took both! )


I now have four fans for the E30! And two more for E34)


I did not disassemble the first one correctly, restored it a little, but now I cannot assemble it.


I broke the second one... )


The third one was already broken... ))


The fourth works, but needs repair... I'm already afraid to touch it!... )))


But, "you don't go to the forest to be afraid of wolves!" (c) :)))
Next will be...

P.S.
From my now extensive experience, the main causes of fan failure are:
1. Resistor burned out, works only at maximum speed. Probably so in the majority. I have all six of them.
2. The bearing hums, over time it can jam. The bearing is no longer lubricated from old age or from dirt. Probably also in the majority.
3. Magnets fell off due to corrosion. Loud noise and crackling when working. Can jam.
4. The "brushes" got jammed from dirt. Doesn't work at all.
5. Corrosion of terminals or wires. Doesn't work at all.

[The_Glory]

Collection_164. ETK_61_Details of the headlight washer system

Let's go back to the ETK section
General electrical equipment of the car

Headlight washers are a fairly rare option for the E30. It was not available for the US market at all, no wonder. But it was installed in the basic configuration on European all-wheel drive models.

Headlight cleaner drives are located in the unit
Headlight washer system parts








Part #1 - left (61 63 1 370 895) and right (61 63 1 370 896) windshield wiper motor - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - fasteners (61 63 1 370 8940 - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - bolt with washer M6X16 (07 11 9 904 5240 - 4 pcs.
Part #4 - M6 nut ( 07 12 9 922 705) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - toothed washer J10.5 (07 11 9 936 2270 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - nut (61 63 1 363 530) - 2 pcs. There are six such nuts in total - but two nuts and one bushing are included in the set of each electric motor.
Part No. 7 - rubber cap (61 63 1 359 5310 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - wiper lever left (61 63 1 370 887) and right (61 63 1 370 888) - 2 pcs. Comes complete with plastic brush holders.
Part No. 9 - windshield wiper brush (61 63 1 356 734) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 10 - M5 nut (07 11 9 905 710) - 2 pcs. I also had washers and elastic rings installed.
Part No. 11 - headlight washer system wiring harness (61 12 1 370 730) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - bracket D = 13MM (61 13 1 371 0740 - 2 pcs.

Wiring harness




1 - connector of the ECU of the headlight washer system
2 - "male" connector to the main wiring of the washer pump (purple-black, brown-black)
3 - windshield washer pump connector (purple-black, brown-black) - large tank, in place of the standard
4 - connector for the intensive windshield washer pump (purple-black, brown-gray) - small tank
5 - headlight washer pump connector (blue, brown) - large tank, on the back side
6 - connector of the right electric motor
7 - connector of the left electric motor
8 - power connector, to the main wiring
9 - "mass" terminal G104

I installed the wiring a long time ago, along with other harnesses.
My electric drives work normally, without extra sounds and problems, so I decided not to disassemble them just like that. Moreover, it is not very simple - the latches are very tight, so there are chances of breaking them.


So I just washed and cleaned everything thoroughly.
We install the bushings, screw the nut, then install the bracket and screw it with a nut with a toothed washer.


We put a rubber cap on the stem - an important detail that protects the stem from dirt and moisture.


We snap the plastic brush holders onto the lever, then we snap the brush hinges into the holder.
Electric drives and brushes are assembled.


We fix the wires in special hooks on the engine housing. On the machine, connectors are fixed in special holders No. 12.


By the way, about brushes. New headlight brushes are no longer available or are very expensive. My brushes are still in more or less normal condition, but the rubber has become quite hard from old age. My clubmate made a similar rubber profile for the brushes.




But it will be necessary to somehow pick up some kind of elastic plate in it and figure out how to fix it in the hinge. Maybe I'll do it later...

So, we screw the electric drives to the headlight frames. There are special holes for this purpose.


Here you can also see a special hole for the washer hose.


Now the headlights are completely ready for installation.




Brush levers, of course, will be installed after installing the decorative grilles of the radiator.

The next subsection is on the details of headlight washers
Headlight washer system parts




Part No. 1 - tank for washing liquid (61 67 1 370 777) - 1 pc. Tanks differ in shape, size and location for diesel and four-wheel drive models.
Part #2 - windshield washer pump (61 66 1 368 589) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (61 66 1 365 657) - 3 pcs.

Part No. 4 - washer fluid level sensor (61 31 1 369 263) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rubber sleeve (61 31 1 369 343) - 1 pc.

Part No. 6 - cover of the tank of the intensive washer (61 66 1 369 516) - 1 pc. The cap is white. An earlier cover (61 66 1 373 175) is red with a vent hole.
Part #7 - sign "Intensivreinigung" (51 14 1 885 911) - 1 pc. Plastic tag on the lid, red color.
Part No. 8 - windshield wiper and washer ECU (61 31 1 367 391) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X13 (07 11 9 907 957) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - sheet nut (61 67 1 372 655) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - windshield washer tank cover (61 66 1 364 807) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - tank filter (61 66 1 365 8480 - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - plastic nut (61 66 1 368 599) - 1 pc. Tank mounting.

Part No. 14 - adapter (61 66 1 355 9390 - 1 pc. Plastic "tee" for headlight washer hoses.
Part No. 15 - valve (61 66 1 380 464) - 2 pcs. Check valve.
Part No. 16 - hose D= 4.6MM (61 66 1 357 388)

Part #17 - nozzle (61 67 1 369 1240 - 2 pcs. I did not remove the nozzles from the decorative grills so as not to break them.

Part No. 18 - wire holder D=16.8MM (12 52 1 276 1470 - 4 pcs.
Part No. 19 - adapter (61 66 1 378 617) - 2 pcs. Not used. Apparently, this is an analogue of detail No. 14.
Part No. 20 - tank (61 67 1 385 254) - 1 pc. Not used. For diesel or four-wheel drive models.
Part No. 21 - filter mesh (61 66 1 371 257) - 1 pc. Not used. For diesel or four-wheel drive models.
Part No. 22 - gasket (16111176910) - 1 pc. Not used. Felt gasket under the tank for diesel models. I had some leftovers on my tank, so I decided to make it like this:


So, we glue the felt gasket on the tank in the places of contact with the body. We install the headlight washer pump from the back of the tank and connect the hose with the adapter and valves.


We install the washer fluid level sensor and the windshield washer pump in standard places. We install a pump for intensive cleaning of the windshield in a small tank. We install and screw the ECU. I broke the ECU mount on the tank, so I made a homemade one. We close the tanks with lids with a tag.


The tank is ready for installation. We lay the hose together with the wiring harnesses. But I will install it a little later, when everything is ready for the assembly of the front part of the car.


In ETK, all parts of the headlight washer system were also available as a single retrofit kit.
Headlight washer system retrofit kit




Part No. 1 - headlight washer system retrofit kit (61 67 1 372 665) - 1 pc. No longer available to order.

Next, about the installation of the radiator and air conditioner fan. After that, it will be possible to finally completely assemble the front part of the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_163. ETK_63_Headlights (Part 3)

So, we install the headlight adjustment screws.
We start with "deaf" hairpins that stand still. These are the four shortest pins, without threads. We tightly put plastic sleeves on them so that the distance from the sleeve to the edge of the hinge is 25 millimeters.


After 89, these pins were plastic, and made in one piece with a sleeve - something similar to mine was made on a 3D printer. There will be spares.
We insert the pins into the holes in the frame and turn it 90 degrees. For high beam headlights, this is the lower inner hole, and for low beam headlights, it is the upper outer hole.


The sleeve must be fixed in the groove.




View from the inside.


The bushings are turned 90 degrees.




Now install the adjustment screws.
The length of the adjustment screws for the main beam headlights is 84 millimeters - 4 pcs.
The length of the adjusting screws for dipped beam headlights is 77 millimeters - 2 pcs. (without hydraulic corrector - 4 pcs.)


As I already wrote in the first part, plastic bushings and handles are not available for order separately - only assembled with screws. They are unreasonably expensive. You can buy screws by the Hella number, but they are not much cheaper, and judging by the reviews, they are shorter.
So a friend of mine printed these bushings and handles for me on a 3D printer. The knobs are different for the low and high beam screws.
We screw the bushing onto the screw, then slightly heat the edge of the screw and put the handle on tightly.
We insert the screws into the corresponding holes in the frames, diagonally, and turn them 90 degrees. For dipped headlights, insert the screw only into the upper hole. The hydraulic corrector drive will be installed in the lower one.


The sleeve must be fixed in the groove.




View from the inside.


The bushings are turned 90 degrees.




We screw the hydraulic corrector drive into the adapter.


We snap the adapter into special holes in the frame, and fix it with two spacer plastic pins.


Adjustment screws and actuators of the hydraulic corrector are installed.


Align approximately all the screws along the length.


We insert plastic bushings into the "ears" on the headlight housing. Special white bushings for hydraulic corrector. Although, for now, I have installed ordinary white bushings :) I don't understand what the difference is, except for the inadequate price for them... When I restore the corrector or buy a new one, I will order them as well, and so far.


We carefully snap the bushings onto the hinges of the screws.




The same goes for the main beam headlights, but here all three bushings are the same.


We carefully snap the bushings onto the hinges of the screws.




We insert the cartridge with the marker lamp into the housing of the dipped beam headlight, and fix it by turning the lever on the cartridge. We fix the wire on special hooks on the headlight frame.


We snap the connector into a special hole on the headlight frame.


The headlights are fully assembled.


Roughly align them with screws.


We install mounting plates for 6.3 mm self-tapping screws on the body. Three pieces on each side. We screw the headlights into these sockets with self-tapping screws.




From the inside, we snap into the body the retainers and clips for attaching the protective shields of the headlights.




But I will install the headlights and shields a little later. It is necessary to first install the headlight cleaner drives on the headlights.







So, the headlights are ready.
Headlight




Part #1 - double headlight with adjustment left (63 12 1 394 259) and right (63 12 1 394 260) - 2 pcs.


The latest division of ETK on lighting devices:
Rotating flashing light


The rotating flashlight was available in blue, red, and yellow. Well, it's clear that this is an option for special cars, so I don't have it, and I won't have it. :)


Next, about the installation of the headlight cleaner drives.

[The_Glory]

Collection_163. ETK_63_Headlights (part 2)

So the ETK section
Lighting devices

There are two types of headlights for the E30:
Before the restyling - ordinary headlights.
Details of a free-form headlight


After restyling - headlights with lenses.
Ellipsoidal Headlight Parts


They are structurally different and their parts are not interchangeable. But the headlights in the assembly are interchangeable. The difference is only in the wiring connectors.
Headlights come from two manufacturers - Hella or Bosch. The pre-88 low beam restyling headlights are not significantly different. After 1988, an additional cutout in the reflector mask appeared under the lens. The headlights of both manufacturers are interchangeable in terms of fastening, the connectors are the same.
Clear or yellow glass was available for each type of headlight. Also available for both types was a hydrocorrector of the angle of inclination of the dipped beam headlights, and a headlight cleaner.
I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that after '87 lensed headlights were available for early model E30s as a retrofit kit. I did it myself a long time ago - I bought restyling headlights with lenses, and replaced the headlight connectors in the main wiring.
As an aftermarket retrofit, headlights with Hella Black lenses were available - with the effect of dark optics. I made similar headlights myself.
Accordingly, in the following we will talk about such headlights - restyling headlights with lenses, a Hella Black analogue, with a hydraulic corrector and a headlight cleaner - the top configuration of headlights.


Part #1 - left (63 12 1 386 407) and right (63 12 1 386 408) high beam optical element - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - Hella diffuser left (63 12 1 385 633) and right (63 12 1 385 634) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - Hella reflector (63 12 1 390 270) - 2 pcs.


Part No. 4 - diffuser mounting ring (63 12 1 373 529) - 4 pcs. Headlight rings are silver. The same for all types of headlights. Optionally, they are chromed (fit with E32 or E34). For Hella Black headlights, the rings are black.
For headlights with a headlight cleaner, all four rings are different and have brush stops. The rings are numbered.

Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the left main beam diffuser 03 (63 12 1 385 591) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the main beam diffuser, right 04 (63 12 1 385 592) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the left dipped beam diffuser 01 (63 12 1 385 593) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the low beam diffuser, right 02 (63 12 1 385 594) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - Hella protective cap (63 12 1 378 333) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - protective cap (63 12 8 357 401) - 2 pcs.


Part No. 7 - lamp socket (63 12 1 385 6030 - 2 pcs. Socket with wire and connector.
Part No. 8 - supporting frame left (63 12 1 385 601) and right (63 12 1 385 602) - 2 pcs. Plastic frames for mounting Hella headlights.
Part No. 9 - adjustment screw (63 12 1 385 397) - 8 pcs. Comes complete with plastic threaded sleeve and handle. If there is a hydraulic corrector - 6 pcs.
Part No. 10 - spacer (63 12 1 378 339) - 4 pcs. "Deaf" fastening of headlights for adjustment. It comes assembled with a plastic sleeve. After 1989, it was replaced by a one-piece plastic sleeve (63 12 1 394 252).
Part No. 11 - Schwarz hinge sleeve (63 12 1 378 369) - 12 pcs. Black headlight adjustment bushings. If there is a hydraulic corrector - 10 pcs.
Part No. 11 - hinge sleeve (63 12 1 386 616) - 2 pcs. White headlight adjustment bushings for hydraulic corrector.

Part No. 12 - halogen lamp 12V 55W H1 (63 21 7 160 777) - 4 pcs. Low beam and high beam lamps. I use Osram lamps.
Part No. 13 - lamp 12V 5W (63 21 7 160 797) - 2 pcs. Lamps of parking lights. I use Osram lamps.
Part No. 14 - screw M4X22 (63 12 1 379 998) - 6 pcs. Lens housing attachment.
Part No. 15 - self-tapping screw (63 12 1 352 070) - 6 pcs. Fixing headlights to the body. For some reason, the spare parts for self-tapping screws are not specified in the ETK - 6 pcs.
Part No. 16 - shield left (51 71 1 965 241) and right (51 71 1 965 252) - 2 pcs. Plastic protective shields for headlights.
Part No. 17 - adapter (63 12 1 385 604) - 2 pcs. Adapter for installing the headlight hydraulic corrector drive. Installed instead of adjustment screws #9. It is attached to the frame with two plastic pins, which are not specified in the ETK.
Part No. 18 - connecting part (51 71 1 942 084) - 1 pc. Plastic insert in the left headlight shield for the air filter nozzle.
Part No. 19 - sealing ring (63 12 1 386 641) - 2 pcs. It is unreasonably expensive, I replaced them with a universal seal. Just like the gaskets in the headlight covers, which are not listed in the ETK at all.

I don't know why, but the clips for fastening the protective shields of the headlights are in a separate section of the ETK.
Ellipsoidal headlight details

Part No. 20 - locking mechanism (51 71 1 916 197) - 4 pcs. Headlight shield mounting clip.
Part No. 21 - lock insert (51 71 1 916 199) - 4 pcs. Headlight shield mounting clip.

Let's start with low beam headlights. We screw the lens to the body of the reflector. They are the same on both sides.


We screw the reflector with the lens to the left and right housing of the headlight diffuser with three self-tapping screws with a new gasket.


This mount has adjustment grooves for right-hand and left-hand movement. For right-hand traffic, you need to install the lens in such a way that the "eye" on the lens body points to the R/D mark on the headlight body (apparently this is an abbreviation for Right Drive)


If you want to drive your E30 to Great Britain or Japan :) , then after crossing the border, in order not to dazzle oncoming traffic, you will need to unscrew these screws, and turn the lens to the I/G mark - I don't know what this abbreviation means, but it is for left-hand traffic.

We insert the lamp without touching the glass with our fingers, connect the contacts, and close the lid with a new gasket.




We put on the ring. The headlight is assembled.


Similarly, we assemble the second dipped beam headlight.

It's easier with high beam headlights. We insert the lamp without touching the glass with our fingers, connect the contacts, and close the lid with a new gasket.




We put on the ring. The headlight is assembled.


Similarly, we assemble the second high-beam headlight.

All headlights are assembled. Now you need to install them and the adjustment screws on the plastic frames.


P.S.
I made several different colored sets of rings - black, silver and blue (the color of the car). I used to change them periodically ;)


It's a pity that there is only one set for the headlight cleaner. - with limiters for brushes. But maybe someday I will change it for variety! :)


Next, about the installation of headlights and adjustment screws on plastic frames.

[The_Glory]

Collection_163. ETK_63_Headlights (Part 1). Preparation and interesting experiments.

For some reason, I got a lot of photos of the headlights, so I decided to divide them into several parts.
In the first part, I will write about the preparation of headlights and interesting chemical experiments :)

So, a long time ago, I made an analogue of Hella Black headlights from ordinary Hella headlights. In my opinion, it turned out quite well. But over the years of operation, the appearance of the headlights has deteriorated a little...




So I decided to completely disassemble them again and bring them to their proper appearance. Cleaned and washed the glass, reflectors and lenses. New original seals are unreasonably expensive, so I replaced them with ordinary universal ones - they are no worse.




On the reflectors, the result of the same Osram Night Breaker +150% is slightly visible - spots and specks from overheating. Although, the reflectors were then re-plated with chrome.


Lenses


The main beam headlights were sanded, primed and painted.


Self-tapping screws and adjustment pins are galvanized.


My headlights have a hydraulic corrector. I did not disassemble the hydraulic drives (apparently they are not disassembled at all), so they remained ungalvanized. I sanded off their pins and decided to try to somehow protect them from corrosion at home.


I found a video about copper plating on YouTube - it seems that everything is simple and beautiful... So I decided to do these interesting chemical experiments! :)
I bought the necessary ingredients according to the "recipe" ;)

Copper sulfate - 100 g
Distilled water - 450 g
Electrolyte for batteries - 100 g


Prepare the mixture.
Pour copper sulfate.


Add water.


Then we add acid. Not vice versa! This is important!


We stir and get a liquid of a beautiful blue color. We carefully degrease the pins in a solvent or acid, and lower them into the solution for a second. And as a result of this chemical "focus" we get pins covered with copper!


It gets even better after a second dive.


But not for long... :) After complete drying, the coating became more like rust, and it was easy to rub off with hands! :)
So, the "trick" failed! :)
I had to re-sand the studs and simply paint them with zinc paint.


Now about the plastic threaded bushings for adjustment. For some reason, they are only available assembled with pins and plastic handles, and cost like gold! :)
Handles are different for low beam and high beam headlights. The pins also have different lengths.
I had as many as three types of pens.




The problem with the bushings and handles was solved thanks to a 3D printing friend of mine. Thank him for that.


Pin tips can be bought original or analogues. In addition to the two ends for the hydraulic corrector pins. They are available only in the original and are also not adequately priced. In the photo, there is a white sleeve at the bottom left. When I restore the operation of the hydraulic corrector, then maybe I will order them. Although, I don't understand what is the difference between them...
Well, the last of the preparatory work is gluing the protective transparent film on the headlights.


Now everything is ready to assemble the headlights.

[The_Glory]

Collection_162. ETK_63_Fog lights

A new MAHLE air conditioner radiator has arrived, but it is Made in China... What can I say.... I look at it and think that it might be better to install the old original radiator...? It looks much more reliable than this new Chinese one... Well, that's it... I was going to install the fan as well. Decided to check it again just in case...and it started jamming...sort of! Good thing I checked. I tried to disassemble it - the impeller stuck firmly to the axis... when I tried to knock it out, I broke it... :( It's good that a friend has the same fan, it's also broken - I'll try to assemble one of the two. Also, the record about radiators and air conditioning is postponed indefinitely...
For now, I will write about the headlights.
Lighting devices

I'll start with the fog lights.
Fog lights

On cars before restyling, there are two types of fog lights, depending on the type of front apron. By 1985, a "slanted" apron, and in 1985-1987, a "straight" apron. The difference is in the framework of fastening the headlights. The headlights themselves are the same. The glass of the fog lights could be transparent or yellow (for the French market).
So, in my case, this is a "straight" apron from 85-87 and, accordingly, headlights for it.



Some parts are not listed separately in ETK, and are assembled under one number. Here's how:



Part No. 1 - left (63 17 1 376 935) and right (63 17 1 376 936) fog light assembly - 2 pcs. Headlamp in housing, with wiring and with frame.
Part #2 - left (63 17 1 381 419) and right (63 17 1 381 420) fog lights - 2 pcs. The headlight in the case, with wiring and a bracket with a screw for adjusting the angle of the headlight.
Part #3 - diffuser left (63 17 1 375 067) and right (63 17 1 375 068) - 2 pcs. Headlight glass assembly with reflector.
Part No. 4 - halogen lamp 12V 55W H3 (63 21 7 160 779) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - diffuser mounting frame (63 17 1 374 883) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - self-tapping screw (07 14 6 977 197) - 4 pcs.

Part No. 7 - mounting frame (63 17 1 376 916) - 2 pcs. It comes complete with a rubber seal.

Item No. 8 is not used.
Part No. 9 - relay (61 36 8 353 447) - 1 pc. 5-pin relay (K8), black, similar to relay (K4) dipped beam and rear fog lights. It is installed in the fuse box, together with fuses #29 and #30. I wrote about it in the relay section.
Part No. 10 - shield (63 17 1 373 577) - 4 pcs. Plug in headlight mounting.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X13 (07 11 9 904 285) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 12 - spacer nut ST 4.8 WEISS (63 17 1 367 868) - 6 pcs.
Item No. 13 is not used.

The headlight housing is assembled with a diffuser seal, wiring and a bracket with a screw to adjust the angle of the headlight. I replaced the seal with a new one - I cut it from the same material. I installed the wiring and the bracket with the headlight angle adjustment screw.




Installed the lamps. By the way, about lamps. A few years ago I bought new original diffusers. I installed Osram Night Breaker +150% lamps in them. With these lamps, the headlight glass heated up very much. And after a few weeks, in the rain, when cold water from a puddle hit the glass, both new glasses cracked... So now I use standard lamps, without any "+100500%". Glass is not cheap, so I am not ready to buy new ones now. I left it as it is, with cracks - the reflectors are new, they shine well.


The glass is installed - the headlight in the housing, with wiring and a bracket with a screw for adjusting the angle of the headlight (No. 2).


We install plastic clips in the front apron from the inside.





We insert the rubber gasket into the frame, and fasten the headlight mounting frame with self-tapping screws.









But in my case these frames will not be used at all. I installed them just to keep them out of the garage. It's just a headlight fitting.


I already said that the fog lights were also yellow. I thought it would look good with the blue color of the car. I also decided to stick a yellow film on them. Additional protection for the glass, even though it is already cracked...



Standard lamps. Yellow protective film. It was necessary to do this right away, even then - maybe the glass would have been whole...


Another fitting.


The lights are ready for installation.


But I will install them not in the factory mounting frames on the front apron, but in the BBS apron. It provides for fixing headlights without frames. Here's how:


Looks nice, I like it! ;)


So, fog lights are installed.
And I will install the apron itself and the entire BBS body kit after I assemble the entire front end.

Next, perhaps, about the main headlights.
Or about the fan, if it turns out to be made of two ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_161. ETK_32_Grease lines of hydraulic power steering. Oil tank, parts

So, back to the ETK section
Steering and suspension geometry

Power steering oil pipes




Part #1 - not used.
Part #2 - hollow screw M14X1.5X26 (32 41 6 783 886) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - sealing ring A14X20-ALMG (32 41 1 129 986) - 4 pcs.


Item No. 4 is not used.
Part No. 5 - high pressure hose (32 41 1 137 153) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - sealing ring A16X21-ALMG - 4 pcs. For some reason it is not specified in ETK/
Part No. 7 - hollow screw M16X28 (32 41 6 783 886) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - ring fitting (32 41 1 128 765) - 1 pc.

Part No. 9 - clamp L18-24 (07 12 9 952 109) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - clamp L15-19 (07 12 9 952 107) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 11 - hose 16X22MM (32 41 1 131 545) - 1 pc. The length is 0.5 m. The photo shows the old hose, because I lost the new one somewhere :) I have already ordered a new one again.
Part No. 12 - hose 12X18MM (32 41 1 131 524) - 1 pc. Length 0.5 m.
Part No. 13 - ring fitting (32 41 1 127 472) - 1 pc.


To make it more convenient, I screwed the hoses to the steering rack before installing the engine.
A high-pressure hose and a return hose are screwed to the rail.


Bolts and fittings have different diameters, so it is impossible to mix them up.


Oil tank, parts




Part No. 1 - tank for ATF lubricant (32 41 1 097 1640 - 1 pc. A filter is built into the tank, so it needs to be periodically replaced with a new one.
Part #2 - cover (32 41 1 128 332) - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - sealing ring (32 41 1 128 333) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - bracket (32 41 1 126 321) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - elastic ring B6 (07 11 9 933 082) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - M6 nut holder (32 41 1 127 1860 - 1 pc.

We insert the lock nut No. 8 into a special hole on the body, and screw the bracket No. 4. As I said, I installed a dual vacuum brake booster from an AWD E30 325ix, so it shifted forward significantly. And now there was such a problem with the installation of the hydraulic power steering tank...


Fortunately, this problem turned out not to be critical, and was easily solved by slightly bending the bracket.


And the tank still stood in its place.


But a little higher than it was before. This is also not critical.


Now it will be a little inconvenient to fill and check the brake fluid level in the brake cylinder reservoir, but it is also not critical.


I haven't bought the hydraulic power steering pump yet, so I'll write about it later.

In general, the engine is almost completely assembled.




I'm waiting for the radiators, then I'll finish everything on the engine and air conditioner.

[The_Glory]

Collection_160. ETK_12_Engine. Engine with vacuum control system

Engine with vacuum control system




Part No. 1 - air compressor of the exhaust gas neutralization system (11 61 1 284 269) - 1 pc. A plastic tube consisting of two parts.
Part #2 - non-return valve (34 33 1 158 1130 - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - hose (34 33 1 153 977) - 1 pc.
Part #4, #5 - vacuum hose 12X19 (34 33 1 115 926)
Part No. 6 - clamp L18-24 (07 12 9 952 109) - 9 pcs.

I installed the hose on the vacuum brake booster a long time ago.
As a reminder, I installed a dual vacuum brake booster from an all-wheel drive E30 324ix, so the hose is on the other side and had to be shortened a bit.




We connect the hoses according to the ETK scheme. I immediately attached the throttle flanges to the hoses. They often fall out of the throttle body from old age. I put them on glue - I hope that now they will hold well.


We connect the hoses to the corresponding fittings on the throttle and to the corrugation and the vacuum brake booster. Between the hoses on the throttle there is another fitting - to it we connect the hose of the tank ventilation valve, which I wrote about earlier.


The vacuum hoses have been installed and are now positioned as follows:


Also connected to the throttle, and adjusted cables of the accelerator pedal and cruise control.

All that's left for me to do with the engine is the fuel injectors, radiator, and exhaust system.

I already mentioned the power steering hoses, so I will write about them next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_159. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture (part 2)

Air flow meter




Part No. 1 - air flow meter (13 62 1 286 615) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - cap (13 62 1 363 874) - 1 pc. Red plastic cap. I once had it, but then it got lost somewhere. It is still available for order, but its price is not adequate, in my opinion. That's why I just selected the size of the plug from the ones I had in the garage.
Part No. 3 - rubber-metal hinge (13 71 1 272 495) - 3 pcs. Apparently this is a bug in ETK. These hinges are not used on E30 with M20B25.
Part #4 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 7 134 319) - 3 pcs. Not used.
Part No. 5 - L-shaped idle control valve (13 41 1 286 065) - 1 pc. It is T-shaped (13 41 1 433 626). It differs in the location of the flanges.
Part No. 6 - rubber bracket (13 41 1 705 5640 - 1 pc. For cars with a catalyst.
Part No. 7 - bracket (13 41 1 708 832) - 1 pc. For cars with a catalyst.
Part No. 8 - corrugated casing (13 71 1 708 800) - 1 pc. It differs for different idle control valves.
Part #9, #10 - clamp L71-78 (07 12 9 952 129) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - hose (13 41 1 718 777) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - clamp L28-33 (07 12 9 952 113) - 2 pcs. Used only on cars after 88. But I decided to install them as well just in case.
Part No. 13 - rubber ring (13 71 1 272 494) - 1 pc. It is used only for heavy operating conditions (Heavy Duty). In my case it is not used.
Part No. 14...No. 17 - motor wiring connectors for the idle control valve and the air flow meter. I wrote about them in the section on motor wiring.

My air flow meter works fine, no one has done any DIY work on it, so I just cleaned it and painted it. And put the red plug in the adjustment hole.






Suction silencer. Filter Variable




Part No. 1 - suction silencer (13 71 1 726 965) - 1 pc. Plastic housing for the air filter.
Part #2 - replaceable filter element (13 72 1 720 861) - 1 pc. I use a BOSCH S9964 filter.

Part No. 3 - mounting bracket L=34MM (13 71 1 707 0440 - 4 pcs.
Part No. 4 - rubber pad (13 71 1 312 328) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rubber-metal hinge (13 71 1 259 818) - 2 pcs. I did not remove them from the filter housing.
Part No. 6 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 7 134 319) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - sealing gasket (13 71 1 705 064) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - locking nut M6 (51 21 1 803 3630 - 4 pcs.

Part #9 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 1 pc. Installed in the filter housing.
Part No. 10 - suction pipe (13 71 1 713 1280 - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - snorkel (13 71 1 284 612) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used. An insert in the headlight cover is used instead. I will write about this in the appropriate section.

There is another version of the housing for the air filter - with a metal box, for heavy operating conditions (Heavy Duty).

Suction silencer. Filter Variable


In my case, only one detail is used from it:
Part No. 7 - rubber pad (13 71 1 312 328) - 1 pc. I do not understand why it is not in the previous section of ETK. A place for its installation is also provided on the plastic case.

We screw the air flow meter to the filter housing with four No. 8 nuts, through a No. 7 gasket and one bolt, which is not specified in the ETK.
We snap a plastic diffuser into the filter housing, which for some reason is not specified in the ETK at all. Install filter #2 and brackets #3.


We close the filter housing and fix it with staples.






We install rubber insert No. 4 on the spar, and insert No. 7 on the bracket.


I installed the idle speed regulator valve bracket on the manifold even earlier.


We install the filter housing in the grooves of the bracket and fasten with two nuts together with the cruise control drive bracket.
We install the corrugation and the idle speed regulator valve, fix everything with clamps. We install the suction pipe. We connect the wiring connectors to the flow meter and the idle control valve.


Next, about vacuum hoses.

[The_Glory]

Collection_158. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture (part 1)

So, let's move on to the ETK section
Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture

I previously wrote about the assembly and installation of the choke. Now about other divisions.
I installed some parts a long time ago, when I was laying the fuel pipes, but I will write about them now.

Fuel supply system, filter




Part No. 1 - fuel filter D=80MM ( 13 32 1 270 038) - 1 pc. I always use a Mahle KL9 filter.
Part #2 - fuel filter with separator D=82MM (13 32 1 278 330) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 3 - fuel filter bracket (13 32 1 713 062) - 1 pc. At the same time, it is a bracket for an adsorber.
Part #4 - clamp L77-84 (07 12 9 952 131) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M6 nut (07 14 7 134 319) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used.
Part #6 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - elastic ring B6 (07 11 9 933 082) - 2 pcs.
Part #8, #11 - fuel hose 8X13MM (16 12 1 180 409).
Part #9, #12 - fuel line (13 32 1 289 037). In my case it is not used.
Part No. 10 - clamp L12-15 (07 12 9 952 104) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 13 - hollow screw M14X1.5X26 (32 41 6 783 886) - 2 pcs. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 4 pcs. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 15 - fuel hose bracket (13 54 1 287 046) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - protective edging GRAU (51 72 1 832 146) - 1 pc.

We screw the filter bracket to the spar, fix the filter with a clamp. We put a protective edging on the edge of the spar so that the hose does not rub against it. We connect the hoses with clamps to the corresponding fuel tubes.
Fuel supply hose.


Tank return and ventilation hoses.


We fix the supply and return hoses to each other with a plastic bracket (#15).


The filter and its hoses are installed.

Fuel tank ventilation valve




Part No. 1 - fuel tank ventilation valve AB-ELEKTRONIK (13 90 1 726 705) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - fuel hose 32MM-210MM (13 31 1 288 284).
Part #3 - fuel hose 6X11MM (13 31 1 272 750).
Item No. 4 is not used.
Part #5 - fuel hose 8X13MM (16 12 1 180 409).
Part No. 6 - adapter - 1 pc. For some reason it is not listed in ETK.

We connect the hoses with clamps according to the diagram.




But we connect it to the adsorber.


We fix the adsorber with a clamp on the fuel filter bracket, connect the tank ventilation hoses to the corresponding tube.


We fix the ventilation hoses to each other with a plastic bracket.


We connect the valve to the throttle together with the vacuum tubes. I will write about it later.

Idle control system ECU




On earlier versions, a separate idle control ECU was installed near the Motronic ECU. It is not provided for in my, more recent, motor wiring. So, from this section, in my case, only sensors are used. I have already written about them in other sections.

Part No. 13 - temperature sensor (12 62 1 710 512) - 1 pc. For instrument panel (brown on 1 pin)
Part No. 14 - temperature sensor M12X1.5 (13 62 1 709 966) - 1 pc. For Motronic ECU (blue on 2 pins)
Part No. 15 - oil pressure sensor (61 31 1 354 274) - 1 pc.

We install the temperature sensors in the thermostat housing and connect them to the motor wiring.


We install the oil pressure sensor in the engine block under the oil filter and connect it to the yellow connector of the engine wiring.


We lay its wire together with the wire of the crankshaft position sensor.


Next, about the air filter and air flow meter.

[The_Glory]

Collection_157. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. DME pulse sensor

So, the latest ETK subdivisions on engine electrical equipment.

DME pulse sensor




Item No. 1...No. 3 are not used. Instead of them, the torpedo mounting brackets shown in the photo are used to mount the ECU.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X19 (07 11 9 916 970) - 4 pcs. For mounting the ECU.
Part No. 5 - sheet nut ST6,3-1 (07 12 9 925 742) - 4 pcs. For mounting the ECU.
Part No. 6 - ECU connector housing 35 pins (12 52 1 270 971) - 1 pc. I have already written about all motor wiring connectors in the corresponding section.

Part No. 7 - pulse sensor (12 14 1 710 668) - 1 pc. Crankshaft position sensor. I also wrote about him before.
Part No. 8 - bolt M6X16 (07 12 9 905 536) - 1 pc. For mounting the sensor.
Part #9 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 0990 - 1 pc. For attaching the sensor.
Part No. 10 - bracket (12 14 1 710 747) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - wire holder D=12.8MM (61 13 1 267 476) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - bracket (12 52 1 711 227) - 1 pc. A bracket for fixing the diagnostic connector and the connectors of the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. I have already written about him before.
Part No. 13 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 905 524) - 1 pc. Apparently this bolt is used for earlier brackets. In my case, it is not used, since the bracket is screwed with an M8 nut to the stud of the intake manifold.
Part No. 14 - spiral hose (61 13 1 363 375) - 1 pc. Plastic protective tube for the sensor wire.

So, I installed the pulse sensor at the engine assembly stage, so I simply repeat the photo of its installation on the engine.
Screw the sensor to a special bracket. We put a protective spiral tube on its wire. It protects against contact with the pulley.


We lay the wire above the water pump, through a protective plastic case.


We fix the connector in the bracket that is screwed to the intake manifold.


We connect to the motor wiring.


I installed parts #10 and #11 on the manifold stud along with the wiring and oil dipstick brackets.. Not sure if it's supposed to be that way but I couldn't find another place for them.


We fix the wiring in them.


Now, finally, about the interior part - installation and connection of the ECU.

DME

Part No. 1 - ECU DME (12 14 1 710 537) - 1 pc.
Several ECU options were available for the M20B25 engine. Most often it is Motronic 1.1 or Motronic 1.3.
Table from the Internet:

12
325e/es
E30
M20/B27 (122hp)
9/84-12/86
0 261 200 027
Bosch Motronic Basic M1.0

13
325e/es
E30
M20/B27 (127hp)
1/87-9/87
0 261 200 154
Bosch Motronic M1.1

14
325i/ECE
E30
M20/B25 (171hp)
85-87
0 261 200 081
Bosch Motronic M1.0

15
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 153
Bosch Motronic M1.1

16
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 173
Bosch Motronic M1.3

17
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 351
Bosch Motronic M1.3

18
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 380
Bosch Motronic M1.3

19
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 382
Bosch Motronic M1.3

20
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 524
Bosch Motronic M1.3

21
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 525
Bosch Motronic M1.3

22
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 526
Bosch Motronic M1.3

I had two ECUs Motronic 1.1 (0 261 200 153) and Motronic 1.3 (0 261 200 173). Self-diagnosis function is available in Motronic 1.3 - I already wrote about it earlier. But for now I installed Motronic 1.1, because Motronic 1.3 was not working. I will replace it later.
I installed the ECU when I was installing the torpedo, so I'm also just repeating the installation photo.
The ECU is screwed to the torpedo brackets and connected to the motor wiring.


There we connect the white 3-pin connector of the tachometer and the economizer, and the black 1-pin connector of the air conditioner. The connectors of the automatic transmission remain unused, we fasten them to the wiring harness. Maybe someday I'll want to install an automatic transmission, then I'll connect them! ;)
The ECU is covered with a plastic shield.


So, all the electrical equipment of the engine is installed and connected.

Next, we go to the ETK section on preparation and adjustment of the working mixture.

[The_Glory]

Collection_156. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Ignition coil. Starter.

Ignition coil




Part No. 1 - ignition coil (12 13 1 286 087) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - clamp (12 13 1 286 080) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - M6 nut (23 11 2 322 368) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - spacer washer 6.4 (07 11 9 931 044) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M5 nut (07 11 9 922 038) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer 5.3 (07 11 9 936 439) - 1 pc.
Part #7 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 1 pc.

We screw the coil with a clamp to the pin on the body. We screw the terminals of the motor wiring to its contacts. We close the contacts with a rubber cover.


The ignition coil is installed and connected.

Only the starter motor remained under the hood of the engine's electrical equipment.
Starter




Part 1 - starter 1.1KW (12 41 1 361 874) - 1 pc.

My starter had already been completely rebuilt before so I just cleaned and painted it.
Type N 0 001 108 018








Therefore, I do not consider the sections on its details.
Starter parts


Starter details


But I will say that, as it turned out, there are two types of starters. About this in the next section.

Starter mounting elements




Part #1 - bolt M10X75 (11 11 1 735 525) - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - elastic washer B10 (07 11 9 932 1220 - 4 pcs.
Part #3 - M10 nut (07 12 9 900 8120 - 2 pcs.

Item No. 4...8 are not used.

Part No. 9 - cover of traction relay (61 13 1 361 340) - 1 pc. Rubber sheet.
Part No. 10 - bandage L=292MM/B=4.8MM (61 13 1 377 134) - 2 pcs. Plastic screeds.


Never seen this original rubber cover on cars, but it is a very simple and effective protection against water for the starter terminals. The pad is put on the wire of the terminal, and fixed with two clamps. Everything ingenious is simple! (with) :)




We get such a "visor" over the terminals.


I tried it on the engine - a roof for the starter! :)




And now about details #4...8. Another inaccuracy in ETK. Bracket No. 6 is not used, and its fasteners No. 4, 5, 7, 8 are used - not logically. My motor just had a #7 bolt with a #8 washer. I got curious and found bracket #6 in ETK - 12 41 1 266 711. It is for M20 motors. So I decided to install it too just in case. :) I barely found it, cleaned it, galvanized it. I started to install, and here is the fiasco! :) It does not fit the size of the pins.


In addition, it does not fit the length of the starter!


There is no point in leaving it like that - it is not very convenient to screw the terminals there anyway.


Therefore, I removed it, and left the bolt with the washer as it was - as a plug.


And the whole point is that there are two types of starters for the M20.
"Reducer" - like mine.
And "without gearbox", - earlier.
So, this bracket is only suitable for a "gearless" starter. Now I know it! :)

The starter was installed after the engine was installed - it is not very convenient to do it, but it was installed. We connect the cable from the battery and the terminals of the motor wiring. The terminals are of different diameters, so it is impossible to mix them up.


Terminals under the roof. ;)


By the way, you can make the visor yourself - I removed the dimensions from the original one, if anyone needs it.


That's it for the electrical equipment of the engine under the hood - only its interior part remains. More on that later.