E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_130. ETK_03_Front armrest

In continuation of the previous entry, I will write about the front armrest, which I will not install either. :)

This is the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories

Front armrest


Part No. 1 - front armrest (82 11 9 413 202). This is quite a convenient and useful option, but, in my opinion, its implementation in the E30 is, to put it mildly, unimpressive. The manufacturer of the front armrests for the E30 was HUSCO. In this perspective, the armrest looks good (all photos of the original armrest are from the Internet):


But its fastening is simply terrible! It looks like some kind of "carpentry"...


Functionality is also not impressive at all. The armrest has retractable cup holders, but judging by the reviews of the owners, they are very unreliable and fragile. When installing the armrest, the possibility to normally use the shelf on the console or cassette units is excluded. I'm not talking about the phone at all.


Terrible through bolting to the console. How to use cassette units here?


Despite this, such an armrest is a very rare item and has an inadequate price, in my opinion! :) Apparently, this is the case when at one time no one needed it, due to its controversial functionality, so it was almost never ordered. But now, it's a rarity at a huge price! )
In my opinion, the armrest from the E34 is a much better option in terms of design, functionality, and fastening. It is installed instead of a cassette unit.


But I have a phone there. Therefore, I bought and installed an aftermarket armrest for the E30 from KAMEI.
Cleaned, renewed the paint.


Fixing the frame


Fastening the pillow


KAMEI


We collect




But we install it.


The appearance of the KAMEI armrest is similar to the appearance of the original HUSCO armrest


And in terms of functionality, it is much better. The armrest is foldable, and does not interfere with using a shelf, or cassette units, or a telephone.


It has an additional drawer for small items. It also has adjustment of the angle of inclination of the pillow and longitudinal adjustment of its position.


Mounting does not require drilling of the console. The frame of the armrest is fixed with bolts, together with the front seats. Fastening is rigid and reliable. In addition, the frame also serves as "protection" for the rear ashtray, which is often broken by rear passengers with their feet, if there are three of them :)


The fastening does not interfere with the longitudinal adjustment of the seats.


So, in my opinion, the aftermarket KAMEI armrest is much better than the original HUSCO in all respects. The only thing is that it does not have cup holders. But it's even better for me - I never let anyone eat or drink in my car! :)


Now I will write about another convenient little thing - a net for things. In ETK for E30 it is not there for some reason, but it is in the list of original options for E30 - S414 Mesh on the side of the front passenger.
There are no numbers on it, modern such meshes look different, so I cannot claim that this is an original mesh specifically for the E30, but it was removed from the E30 Touring.


Fastening with self-tapping screws through plastic clips.


It is installed on the checkpoint tunnel from the passenger side. The size fits perfectly.




Next time I will write about the front seats.

[The_Glory]

Collection_129. ETK_65_Radio receiver equipment

I almost forgot to write about one thing - a unit for cassettes.

This is the last subsection from the section Audio, navigation, information. systems

Radio accessories






Part No. 1 - block for cassettes (65 14 9 056 554). This is a special console for the handbrake lever with a cutout for installing a C-box cartridge into it.
Part #2 - insert block for the cassette (65 11 1 375 261). A block for one cassette, from which you can dial blocks for different numbers of cassettes.
Item No. 3 is not used.
Detail #4 - napkin for cleaning the antenna (65 12 9 056 514). No longer available to order. Maybe I'll find somewhere later...
Part No. 5 - cartridge for 5 CDs (65 12 9 061 583). For a CD-player. In my case it is not used.

I bought all the blocks for cassettes randomly and collected a whole collection of all their types. But they were all in pretty bad shape. Some even with cassettes. :)


I completely disassembled them, washed them, cleaned them.


The main problem is rusty springs and broken latches.






Of all of them, I made only two in fully working condition.




Blocks are connected in three pieces and inserted into a plastic frame.


Together with the frame, the blocks snap into the hole in the handbrake lever console.
At that time, such units for C-box cassettes were installed on almost all makes and models of cars. Each model had its own special frame for a different number of blocks for cassettes. For the E30, there were three types of six-block cassettes.
The earliest version is with white buttons.




A similar unit for cassettes, but with cassette filling indicators. Each block has a "window". An empty block is a white label. When installing the cassette, the label turns red. You need to find two more unbroken blocks somewhere ;)




Probably after 1985, or maybe after restyling, they started to install cassette boxes with black buttons and cassette filling indicators.




Similar units for cassettes were also installed on the E32, E34, E36, but there they still had a backlight for filling indicators and a frame with a cover. I'm not sure if such cassette units were installed on the E30, although the option for backlighting was provided on the later version. But, if desired, it can be done by adding a backlight lamp.

So, I've tried all three types of cassette units, but I won't be installing them since I already have my phone installed there.
But for the US market there was another version of the cassette block for such a case - in the door pocket. But there is a slightly different construction of blocks - vertical.


I saw such a unit for cassettes on sale only once, I did not have time to buy. I will try to do it myself. So far, I bought "donor" blocks for cassettes for the experiment.

Early version. You need to find two more blocks.




A later version.




I haven't decided which option I will experiment with, but the main thing is that both work well, even without cleaning and washing.




I will write about the result later.

[The_Glory]

Collection_128. ETK_62_Control devices. Additional information devices



Additional information instruments




Item #1 is a digital clock. It comes in two versions - with an amber display and black numbers, or with a black display and amber numbers. Until 1985, it was installed as a basic configuration on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or as an option on other cars.

Part #2 - clock (62 13 1 376 903). After 1985, it was installed as a basic configuration on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or as an option on other cars. My friends gave it to me in this "table" version! ;)


Part #3 - screw M3X10 ( 07 11 9 907 6050 - 4 pcs. For fastening the watch frame.
Part No. 4 - clock face cover (62 13 1 376 904)
Part No. 5 - clock mounting frame (62 13 1 380 009). Suitable for all types of watches.
Part No. 6 - BSK (Activ Check Control) block. It comes in different versions, with inscriptions in different languages, and with different additional lamps depending on the configuration of the machine, respectively with different ETK numbers. In my version, it is a top-of-the-line variant for the Japanese market with all the additional lights and English lettering. In the photo above. The lower version for diesel E28.

Part #7 is a simplified version for cars with 4-cylinder engines, only with additional lamps (63 31 1 376 895).
Part No. 8 - lamp 1.2W (62 11 1 368 299) - 2 pcs. Lamps for the illumination of the clock and the BSK unit. If there are additional lamps, their number increases accordingly.
Part No. 9 - locking spring (62 14 1 369 638) - 2 pcs. For fastening the BSK block.
Part No. 10 - bracket (62 14 1 373 174) - 1 pc. For fastening the BSK block.


I have an on-board computer installed instead of a clock, so parts #1, 2, 4, 5 are not used.
I have already written about the on-board control system (Activ Check Control), its functions and wiring, so now I will write only about the installation of the lamp unit itself.
It was installed on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or in a simplified version on some models with 4-cylinder engines, if they had the appropriate options.
To fix the block in the ceiling panel, you need to install parts No. 9 and No. 10 in its plastic bracket.




After installing the ceiling panel, connect the block to the wiring and firmly insert it into the panel.


So far I've installed the unit with only one extra bulb for the airbag, but later when all the extras are working, I'll install the top-of-the-line version with all four extra bulbs.

The last subsection remains in this section:
Digital clock with outdoor air temperature indicator


I had it installed earlier, but I replaced it with an on-board computer - I already wrote about it. It is essentially the same watch, only with the function of reminding every hour and measuring the temperature. The sensor and gong are similar to those in the on-board computer.
So, that concludes the instrument panel section.

Maybe one day I will also install additional Zender or Hartge devices, but I'm not sure about that... ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_127. ETK_62_Control devices. Instrument cluster details

There are two manufacturers of instrument panels - VDO and Motometer. In both cases, there are two types of panels - before 86 and after 86. They differ mainly in the SI board, the "oilservice/inspection" scale and the encoder.
By 86, the scale has 5 green, 1 yellow and 3 red LEDs. A mechanical encoder for the tachometer is installed.
After '86 the gauge has 5 green LEDs, 1 yellow and 1 red, also added the "annual service" symbol in the form of a clock between the "oilservice inspection" inscriptions. An electronic encoder for the tachometer is installed.

Unit
Instrument combination details




Part #1 - instrument panel (62 11 1 372 221). In the version for "younger" models with a clock, the glass and case have an additional hole for the button to adjust the hands of the clock. There is no such hole in panels with a tachometer.
Part #2 - overlay (62 11 1 368 8720. Decorative plastic frame.
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X16 (07 11 9 902 423) - 2 pcs. For fastening the instrument panel.

Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X9.5 (07 11 9 902 399) - 2 pcs. and self-tapping screw B2.9X23 (62 11 1 372 267) - 2 pcs. For fixing the frame. Very important! Do not confuse long self-tapping screws with short ones! The long ones are twisted at the bottom along the edges, and the short ones are at the bottom in the middle! If you twist longer self-tapping screws in the middle, they will damage the tracks on the SI board. You can see it in the photo below - someone before me has already mixed them up! :)

Part No. 5 - instrument panel board (62 11 1 372 255)
Part No. 6 - SI board ( 62 11 1 394 267). There are cases without an "oilservice/inspection" scale, but I have never met such.
Part #7 - SI board (62 11 1 372 258)


Detail #8, 9 - not used.
Part #10 - mechanical encoder (62 11 1 377 668). Mechanical encoder for tachometer. It differs for 4- and 6-cylinder engines. It is installed on the back side of the instrument panel behind the tachometer.



Item #11 - Electronic encoder for the tachometer. It differs for 4- and 6-cylinder engines. It also has differences in different E30 models. It is installed on the front side of the instrument panel under the tachometer.
Detail #12, #13 - light filters for control lamps. They differ depending on the model or configuration of the machine.
Part No. 14 - a light filter for control lamps of turn signals and main beam (62 11 1 372 253).
Part No. 15 - light guide of control lamps of turn signals and main beam (62 11 1 372 247). Plastic bracket for lamps.

Part No. 16 - light filter of the CHECK control lamp (62 11 1 377 674).
Part No. 17 - light guide of the CHECK control lamp (62 11 1 372 266). Plastic bracket for the lamp.
Part No. 18 is a pull rod for zeroing the lower odometer.
Part #19 - not used.
Part No. 20 - button (62 12 1 363 213). To reset the lower odometer.
Detail #21 - a button for adjusting the hands of the clock. Not used in this case.
Part No. 22 - lamp holder (62 11 1 376 716) - 3 pcs. For backlight lamps and battery charging indicator lamp.
Part No. 23 - lamp 12V 3W (07 11 9 905 358) - 3 pcs. Backlight and battery charging control lamp. It is important not to install more powerful lamps, otherwise the amber light filter caps may melt. By the way, they are not listed in ETK.
Part No. 24 - lamp 12V 1.2W (62 11 1 368 299) - 11 pcs. Lamps of control lamps.

Part No. 25 - self-tapping screw ST3.5X16 (07 11 9 907 783) - 9 pcs. For fastening the body of the instrument panel.
Part No. 26 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X13 (07 11 9 906 706) - 8 pcs. For fastening the speedometer and tachometer to the body of the instrument panel.
Part No. 27 - shield (62 11 1 377 373). Instrument panel housing.
Part #28, #29 - not used.
Part No. 30 - connector housing (62 11 1 372 218). Additional green connector.

So my dashboard looked like this.


It is definitely not from this car, and judging by everything - assembled from several instrument panels. There is a hole in the case for adjusting the hands of the clock, but there is no hole on the glass, as the tachometer is installed. VDO case, but all Motometer devices and boards. The body is light gray. I'm not sure if there were such options, although there are similar color dashboards in photos on the Internet. Maybe the case was simply painted. But the main thing is that all the devices work and I like the appearance with this color! :)
But something had to be fixed somewhere. Polished the glass and caps of the light filters of the backlight.


Restored the left housing mount using a "repair kit" using 3D printing.


Now you can assemble the instrument panel.
We install the light guides of the backlight, which are not specified in the ETK, light filters and light guides of the control lamps, the SI-board, the thrust for zeroing the lower odometer. In my case, I still need to glue the hole for the button to adjust the hands of the clock so that it does not glow :)


We insert the light filters of the control lamps.


I added a few more lamps - so I added to the light filter and the corresponding icons for them. I just cut it from another filter and pasted it.
Now I have a CHECK ENGINE light like on US cars


And the reverse R lamp, although it turned out a little worse due to the overlay of yellow on green...


Also installed the optional trailer turn signal light, but with no hitch and no trailer, it won't come on. :)

Next, we screw the speedometer to the board, install the light filter caps on the backlight lamps, and install all the lamps.


On the other hand, we install the mechanical encoder of the tachometer - so that the arrow coincides with the arrow on the housing.




The encoder number is visible through a special hole under the tachometer scale. 10 - encoder for a 6-cylinder engine.


The hole in the case was sealed with paper, I also sealed it with a sticker.
We install an additional green connector for options that use the speed signal from the speedometer. It can be cruise control, radio, telephone and automatic transmission with electronic control. Also, this connector is used by the option for the USA - control of the lambda probe (O2 sensor). The connector is simply inserted into the holes in the case.


The instrument panel has two main connectors - white and blue.
The yellow connector is on all instrument panels, but is used only if there is a digital clock with a thermometer or an on-board computer. On "younger" models, a regular clock can be connected to the yellow connector, which is an option when replacing the clock in the instrument panel with a tachometer. Two clamps are provided on the case for fixing the wiring to the yellow connector.
An additional green connector, if necessary, can be installed on any instrument panel.


So, the instrument panel is assembled and ready for installation.


We connect all connectors, insert additional lamps.


We insert the instrument panel into the torpedo and screw its brackets.


We install a decorative frame and screw it. I remind you once again - this is where it is important not to confuse long and short self-tapping screws! The outermost instrument panels on the sides are long, the middle ones above the steering column are short! NOT THE OTHERWISE!!!


We screw the frame from above to the torpedo with two short black self-tapping screws, which are not specified in ETK.


The instrument panel is connected and installed.


We check - everything works.


After connecting, yellow and three red diodes are lit, so I immediately reset the "oilservice/inspection" scale - now 5 green diodes are lit, as it should be.
I have already written in detail about how this scale works and is reset, and there is enough information on the Internet, so I will not repeat myself.
Next, about the installation of the on-board control system panel.

[The_Glory]

Collection_126. ETK_62_Control devices. Control devices

So, the section
Instruments

Unit
Instruments


I only removed the speedometer from the dash board as I needed to replace the odometer gears. There was no need to remove other devices.


Part #1 - speedometer (62 12 1 381 706). Available with a scale in km/h or miles/h (for the USA). The scale is marked up to 220 km/h, or up to 240 km/h.
Part No. 2 (No. 3) is a tachometer (62 13 1 374 877). Different models of engines have a different "red zone" scale. For 4-cylinder models, it was available as an additional option and was installed instead of the clock. For "older" models, the clock in the instrument panel was not available.
Detail #4 - tachometer without an econometer. Not used in this case.
Part No. 5 - fuel consumption indicator (62 13 1 376 717). The econometer was available only together with the tachometer. Sometimes there is a clock with an econometer scale.
Part #6 - fuel flow meter (62 13 1 374 824) The basic device has a scale in liters - 55 liters before restyling, or 60 liters after restyling. Not used in this case.
Part No. 7 fuel flow meter for cars with an additional tank (62 13 1 381 323). Earlier I wrote about the additional tank. I decided not to install the tank itself yet, but the wiring and device for it are installed. The device has two scales in "volume fractions" - the main tank and an additional one.
Part #8 - remote thermometer (62 13 1 374 816). Engine temperature indicator.

All devices can be of two manufacturers - VDO or Motometer. In my case it is Motometer.

For the past several months I have been driving with a broken odometer. Its gears often fail due to old age. So, we unscrew four self-tapping screws and remove the speedometer from the board.
Motometer




And here is the reason - a small drive gear without teeth.


The next brown gear is also missing teeth.


To access the gears, remove the upper transparent cover.
When trying to remove the gear, it cracked! Although, they are removed very easily.


The next green gear looked like it had completely "melted"... And it also broke into pieces.


Lower black gear targets.


The small drive gear had to be simply scraped off the axle piece by piece.




So, you need to replace the gears. The number of teeth is indicated on them.
Brown 44/17, green 38/23.


Black 31/11 and 33/26.


Small drive gear 12.



The gears simply fit freely on the axle. A small drive gear is put on the axle tightly so that it does not scroll.
After replacing the gears, I had the idea to "reset" the mileage... say - criminal! :)
The dashboard is definitely not from this car, and the mileage on it is still not true.


241359 km - in fact, it is much larger, so there is "nothing to lose" here! ;)
At first I tried turning the odometer back by hand....but at 150,000 miles it would take several days! :) Then I tried turning mechanically with an electric dremel - it was much faster, but the teeth on the gear began to wear out very quickly and they would be enough for a maximum of several thousand kilometers :) I had to change one more black gear...


But then, thanks to the advice of a teammate, I understood how to do it easier and faster!
Unscrew the second transparent cover and coil.


We bend the bracket of the coil so that the axis of the white gears of the odometer does not rest against it.


On the other hand, the axis is flared. I had to turn it a little with a dremel so that it came out of the hole.


We take out the axle and deflect it so that the white gears come out of engagement with the odometer.


Now freely set all "zeros" on the odometer and align all the white gears.


We insert the axis in its place, screw the coil and transparent covers. It is not necessary to roll it - it rests against the coil bracket and will not be able to fall out of the hole by itself.
Reset the lower counter by pressing the lever. Now the odometer works again and it has "zero" mileage! ;)


New life - a new countdown! ;)


Isn't that legal?... :)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_125. ETK_51_Body equipment. Center console

We install the central console.
Center console




Part #1 - console for ANTHRAZIT cassettes (51 16 1 913 843). Most cars are black. There were exclusive configurations in which the console was covered with natural leather. The Edition configuration can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO. It also differs depending on the configuration of the car - with a "pocket" for small items, or with a cut-out for a cassette holder, and with cut-outs for seat heating buttons, electric blinds, and the automatic transmission mode regulator. In my version - with a cut-out for the cassette deck and with cut-outs for seat heating buttons and electric blinds.
Part #2 - not used.
Part No. 3 - spacer (51 16 1 943 121) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - plastic nut M6 (16 13 1 176 747) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rear ashtray (51 16 1 904 809). It consists of a box and a lid. In my case, it is not used for its intended purpose, as I will never allow anyone to smoke in my car! :) That's why I installed two buttons for heating the rear seats in the ashtray cover. ;)
Part No. 6 - backlight lamp cartridge (64 11 1 366 170) - 1 pc.

Installation is simple. We install and connect seat heating buttons and electric blinds, ashtray lighting lamp. We insert the hooks of the central console into the holes on the torpedo console, put the console on the handbrake lever, press it to the carpet and fix it with a plastic nut through the spacer to the pin on the body. Insert the rear ashtray. In my case, we are still installing and connecting the buttons for heating the rear seats.


Now you can also install the handbrake lever cover, which I already wrote about a long time ago. Simply snaps into the console with staples.


I have several different original cassette decks, but I have a phone installed in their place. And I will write about cassette players later, a separate entry. We connect and install the phone.


All parts of the torpedo are installed and connected. In addition to the instrument panel.


Now I have more buttons on my E30 than on a piano! :)

Next, I install the instrument panel and front seats and go to the next level - the engine! ;) Or maybe BBS...

[The_Glory]

Collection_124. ETK_51_Body equipment. Department for small things

We install the torpedo console.
Compartment for small items




Detail #1 - department for small things (51 16 1 941 830). Most cars are black. There were exclusive configurations in which the console was covered with natural leather. The Edition configuration can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO. It also differs depending on the configuration of the machine - with cutouts for the front and/or rear power window buttons. The location of these buttons for before restyling and after restyling is also different. It has additional noise insulation for diesel cars. In my version - with cutouts for front and rear electric windows, and with additional "diesel" noise insulation.
I had an ammeter built into my console, but after installing the air conditioner, there was no room for it behind the console, and it rested against the air conditioner. Therefore, I had to change the console. It was lucky to find it in perfect condition, but for restyling.


I had to cut holes in it for all the buttons. It is good that there are factory stampings on the inner part that need to be cut.


On the left is the console after restyling - it has places for all six buttons of the power windows, including the automatic fuse button. On the right is the console before the restyling - it has places for only five buttons for power windows, but without the button for the automatic fuse. It is installed above the radio on the right.


It is noticeable that in the photo on the left, the buttons are more shifted back.


But that's not all. If you have a phone with a "hands-free" system, according to the EBA factory instructions, the microphone is installed in the place of the air conditioner button. But if there is also an air conditioner, there is a "plan B" - the microphone crashes into the console according to the template from the instructions. So, let's cut further! :)






All the holes are cut out, the microphone is installed, "anti-scrape" strips are pasted over the places of docking with the torpedo and the central console.




Since I have additional original "diesel" sound insulation installed on the torpedo and on the under-wheel casing, we are also turning the console into a "diesel" one! ;)




Part No. 2 (No. 3+No. 4) - front ashtray ANTHRAZIT (51 16 1 904 808). There were exclusive configurations in which the ashtray was covered with black, gray or brown natural leather.
Part No. 3 - front ashtray (51 16 1 911 696). It consists of several parts - a box, a cover, metal inserts and light guides for illumination.

In assembly There are traces of corrosion left on the metal insert, I'll probably cover them with "anti-squeak" or some kind of fabric - I won't allow anyone to smoke in the car anyway! :) Or I'll buy a "pocket" (#14).

Part #4 - front ashtray frame (51 16 1 906 887).
Part No. 5 - self-tapping screw B3.9X16MM (51 13 1 879 479) - 2 pcs. For fixing the frame.
Part No. 6 - M6 plastic nut (16 13 1 176 747) - 1 pc. For attaching the console to the body.
Part No. 7 - bracket (51 16 1 904 785). For attaching the console to the body.
Part No. 8 (No. 11) - self-tapping screw ST4.2X13 (07 11 9 907 939) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bracket to the console.

Part No. 9 - locking clip (51 16 1 932 255) - 2 pcs. For attaching the console to the heater body on the sides.
Part No. 10 - bracket (51 16 1 916 508). For attaching the console to the torpedo.
Part No. 11 (No. 8) - self-tapping screw ST4.2X13 (07 11 9 907 939) - 1 pc. For attaching the bracket to the console.
Part No. 12 - sheet nut ST4,8-1 (07 12 9 925 735) - 1 pc. For attaching the console to the torpedo.
Part No. 13 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X16 (07 11 9 901 299) - 1 pc. For attaching the console to the torpedo.

Item No. 14 - compartment for small items (72 60 1 942 786). It is installed instead of an ashtray. A kind of "package for non-chicken lovers" ;) Still available to order. Maybe later I will order it for my collection :) Photo from the Internet:


So, we screw the brackets.




We install a frame with a cigarette lighter and an ashtray.


We connect the microphone, cigarette lighter and ashtray lighting, install the console under the torpedo. We connect and install all the buttons of the electric windows. We fix the console with a plastic nut to the pin on the body.


In the photo, you can see the connector for the reverse lights, and the added connector for lighting the gear shift knob - there will be a separate entry about this.
We screw the console to the lower bracket of the torpedo.


We fix the console to the air conditioner body with clips on the sides. On the right, this clip simultaneously fixes the plastic shield of the torpedo.


The console is installed.


According to the year of manufacture of the car, the button for the automatic fuse of the electric windows should be installed above the radio on the right. But, firstly, I no longer have room for it there, and secondly, I could not find a console in good condition for restyling. Therefore, I have this button installed, as on restyling - in the console, together with other buttons of the window regulators. It is even more convenient, more logical, and more beautiful, in my opinion.
I wrote a long time ago about noise isolation of the gearbox (51 48 1 913 064) in the corresponding section.


Finally, it can be installed in place.


Well, I also installed the frame with the gearbox lever cover, but I will write about it later.


Next, I install the central console.

[The_Glory]

Collection_123. ETK_51_Body equipment. Instrument panel cladding

Finally, I got to the torpedo installation!
Dashboard trim


The parts are large, so they all did not fit on the table at once.
First, the torpedo itself:


Part No. 1 - instrument panel lining (51 45 1 941 532). Most cars are black. There were exclusive configurations in which the torpedo was covered with natural leather. There were also gray variants, but they are extremely rare. On diesel cars, the torpedo has additional noise insulation. I already wrote about its gluing earlier in the section on conditioner.
Part #2 - rubber buffer (51 45 1 917 675) - 2 pcs. Rubber drawer buffer for small items. In the photo, they are installed on the torpedo.

Part No. 3 - bracket (51 45 1 852 827) - 1 pc. A metal clip for fastening the torpedo in the center under the windshield. It is absent on some cars, most on touring cars.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07 11 9 916 966) - 1 pc. Fastening of the torpedo under the steering column.
Part No. 5 - sheet nut ST6,3-1 (07 12 9 925 742) - 1 pc. Fastening of the torpedo under the steering column.
Part No. 6 (No. 24) - M6 nut holder (51 45 1 885 649) - 4 pcs. Torpedo mounting on the sides.
Part No. 7 (No. 23) - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 904 459) - 4 pcs. Torpedo mounting on the sides.


Steering wheel cover and lining of the box for small things:


Part #8 - ANTHRAZIT lower left lining (51 45 1 917 355). Most cars are black. The Edition configuration can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO. It also differs depending on the configuration of the car - with a headlight tilt regulator and a place for the on-board computer gong. It is also significantly different for cars with an airbag. It has additional noise insulation for diesel cars. In my version - with a headlight tilt regulator and a place for an on-board computer gong, and with additional "diesel" noise insulation.
Part No. 9 - lower right lining (51 45 1 906 932). Plastic shield covering the heater body.
Part No. 10 (No. 16) - sheet nut B3.9 (51 13 1 914 097) - 1 pc. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X16 (07 11 9 906 745) - 1 pc. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 12 - locking clip (51 45 1 914 869) - 3 pcs. Fastening the casing (#1) to the torpedo. In ETK, for some reason, three different numbers, different clips are indicated - but this number is correct. One clip is not indicated at all - the one that fixes the cover to the steering column (51 71 1 916 197) - it can be seen in the photo.
Part No. 13 - bracket (51 45 1 906 532), fastening of the casing below to the steering column.

Part No. 14 - the cover of the box for small items (51 16 1 911 985). Plastic shield covering the Motronic ECU.
Part No. 15 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X13 (07 14 7 202 502) - 2 pcs. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 16 (No. 10) - leaf nut B3.9 (51 13 1 914 097) - 1 pc. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 17 - locking clip (51 71 1 916 197) - 2 pcs. Attachment of shields.

Part No. 18 - dashboard lining overlay (62 11 1 370 657). Plastic overlay.
Part #19...21 - not used.
Part No. 22 - nut (62 14 8 480 019) - 2 pcs. Aluminum nut for fastening the lining.
Detail No. 25 - a ceiling light for the box for small things.
Part #26...35 - only for the cover with an airbag. In this case, they are not used.
Part #36 - I'm not sure, but maybe it's an analogue of bracket #3.

So, we start the installation with a torpedo. We install bracket No. 3 in the center of the torpedo.


It should fit into a special bracket under the windshield.


Install lock nuts No. 6 on the sides in the brackets on the body.


The torpedo is attached to them with its side brackets.


A bracket for attaching a torpedo under the steering column with a self-tapping screw. Above the steering column, glue an "anti-squeak" strip to the torpedo.


Attaches to this bracket on the body.


There is another bracket on the bottom center of the torpedo, but I will write about it later - the torpedo console is attached to it.


So, all the air ducts and nozzles are already installed in the torpedo, so we push it into its place so as to snap the clip under the windshield. I had to remove the linings of the front roof racks, because they were in the way. Zarazom glued strips of "anti-squeak" to them at the bottom. It is more convenient to do it with an assistant, but I always put it myself... a little inconvenient, but I put it.
Importantly! Before installing the torpedo, be sure to install the plastic lining of the steering column. Otherwise, it will not be installed later. I know this from my first experience installing a torpedo - I had to remove it again! :)


On the left, together with the torpedo, the ABS ECU mounting bracket is screwed (I wrote about this earlier). We fix the torpedo wiring with a clamp on the torpedo bracket.


Under the steering column, together with the torpedo, the second ABS ECU mounting bracket is screwed (I wrote about this earlier). The ABS relay is installed and connected to it.


We install it on the brackets and connect the ABS ECU. Compactly lay all the wiring.


The airbag ECU is installed above the ABS ECU. But, judging by everything, you need to install some of your own brackets for it. I don't have them yet, so I'll install it later... I won't plug it in anyway.


We fix the harnesses above the instrument panel with clamps, remove all the connectors that go to the instrument panel.


Next, we fix with clamps all the wiring harnesses, except for the wiring of the radio and button connectors, under the central air duct.


On the right, together with the torpedo, the bracket of the Motronic ECU is screwed.


The second bracket of the Motronic ECU is screwed above the box for small items. But first you need to screw the cruise control ECU bracket to it, and install the ECU unit itself.


Then put the whole assembly under the torpedo and screw it to the bracket on the body and the torpedo. We install the Motronic ECU, lay the wiring and connect all the connectors.


We connect the lamp shade in the shield, the backlight button, install the plastic shields, fasten them to the torpedo with self-tapping screws and to each other with clips.


We install the straps of the box for small things.


We lay the wiring through a special hole to the flashlight connector so that it does not get pinched when closing the box.
I still have the wiring to the anti-radar ;)


We hang the box on a strap. We screw the hinge of the box to the pins on the body and adjust it so that the lock closes normally. We install a flashlight (82 11 9 413 237).

Chargeable hand lamp



A drawer for small things is installed.


We install the central frame with heater controls, connect the radio, on-board computer and buttons.


Everything is installed on the right. Even anti-radar! :)


We put the plastic bracket on the steering wheel cover. The photo shows additional "diesel" sound insulation.


We snap the bracket onto the steering column tube, insert the end of the casing between the metal plates on the motor shield. We install the gong of the on-board computer in the casing, connect the headlight regulator and its backlight. Fasten the casing with three clips to the torpedo and one clip to the steering column.
We install and connect the light switch on the cover under the instrument panel, which we fasten with two nuts.


The torpedo is installed. Now I'm installing her console.

[The_Glory]

Collection_122. ETK_51_Body equipment. Trinket box

Well, now everything seems to be finished in the salon with electricity.
Let's return to the section
Body equipment

First, a box for small things.
Glove Box




Part #1 - ANTHRAZIT small box (51 16 1 884 243). It is standard black, but the Edition can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO.
Part #2 - loop (51 16 1 916 022)
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X16 (07 11 9 916 945) - 3 pcs. For fastening the hinge to the box.
Part No. 4 - insert plate (51 16 1 848 715) - 3 pcs. For fastening the hinge to the box.

Item No. 5 is not used.
Part No. 6 - support bracket (51 16 1 913 891)
Part No. 7 - hanger for a box (51 16 1 904 471) - 2 pcs. Flexible strap-limiter for opening the drawer.
Part No. 8 - pin (51 16 1 828 956) - 2 pcs. For fixing straps.

Part No. 9 - a set of locking mechanism (51 16 1 848 873). Basic drawer opening handle. Not used in this case.
Part No. 10 - a set of locking mechanism with code (51 16 1 853 004). Keyed drawer opening handle. Lock repair kit (51 16 9 061 387). I wrote about the repair of this lock in the section about locks.
Part No. 11 - a set of a locking mechanism with a key (51 16 1 853 002).
Part No. 12 - the upper part of the locking mechanism (51 16 1 849 472).
Part No. 13 - screw M5X12 (07 11 9 907 627) - 2 pcs. For attaching the handle to the drawer.
Part No. 14 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 0470 - 2 pcs. For attaching the handle to the box.

Part No. 15 - M6 nut with washer (07 14 7 134 319) - 3 pcs. For attaching the loop to the body.
Part No. 16 - bracket (51 16 1 913 890). Lock latch.
Part No. 17 - self-tapping screw B3.9X16MM (51 13 1 879 479) - 2 pcs. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the torpedo.
Part No. 18 - sheet nut ST6,3-1-ZN (07 12 9 925 727) - 1 pc. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the body.
Part No. 19 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07 11 9 916 966) - 1 pc. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the body.
Part #20...23 - not used.

In my case, there is an original wooden cover on the box.


I will write about it separately later.
The pad has a metal base with threaded bushings. Fastened with two M3 screws.


We fasten the handle with the lock, install the wooden overlay, fasten the hinge. And it is better not to install the straps right away - then I had to remove them again.


The box for small things in the "top" configuration is ready for installation.


But first you need to install a torpedo! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_121. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Switch

We are preparing all the buttons for installation.

Switch




Part #1 - emergency alarm switch (61 31 1 367 340). The button in the basic configuration has a backlight. When activated, it starts to glow more brightly.
Part #2 - rear window heating switch (61 31 1 376 036). Button in the basic configuration. Earlier buttons are green, later ones are yellow. There are no lights. It starts to glow when activated.

Part No. 3 - air conditioner switch (61 31 1 372 051). Optional button. The air conditioner button is blue, the recirculation button is yellow. There are no lights. It starts to glow when activated.
Detail #4 - air conditioner switch. Not used for E30. The air conditioner button is blue. There is no backlight. It starts to glow when activated.
Part No. 5 - fan switch (61 31 1 381 201). Heater fan speed mode switch. The earlier ones have three speeds, the later four.
Part No. 6 - fastening of the fan switch (64 11 8 362 900)
The icons on the button will need to be restored.

Part No. 7 - automatic fuse (61 31 1 370 724). After restyling, it has a different body shape (61 31 1 369 375). Optional button. There is no backlight at all. Turns off power to all power windows manually or automatically when overloaded.

Part No. 8 - rear power window switch (61 31 1 385 796). Optional button. There is no backlight at all. Turns off power to the rear power window buttons located on the doors.
Part No. 9 - power window switch without backlight (61 31 1 367 373) or with backlight (61 31 1 377 905) - 6 pcs. It is also used for an electric sunroof - 1 pc. Optional button. The backlight works constantly when the ignition is on.

Left with backlight, right without backlight:

In the photo on the right is the rear electric curtain button for E32/E34. I'm not sure if it was used for the E30 - the EBA doesn't say that. It might have used the regular window button (#9), but I like the electric shutter button better.
Part No. 10 - cigarette lighter socket (61 34 1 367 690)
Part No. 11 - glow spiral (61 34 8 648 111)
Part No. 12 - cigarette lighter insert (61 34 1 367 689). With backlight.
Part No. 13 - lamp 12V 1.2W (63 21 7 167 000) - 1 pc. Cigarette lighter and ashtray lighting.


Part No. 14, No. 15 - automatic transmission mode switch with electronic control. Not used in this case.

In the photo there are also optional seat heating buttons. I already wrote about this before, so here it is only about the buttons.

Earlier heated seat buttons have a different shape and a green backlight when activated. In the photo above, there are later buttons, they do not have backlight. When activated, they start to light up.
I used the E32/E34 buttons to heat the rear seats. They are similar in appearance in the photo below, but structurally different. They have backlight. When activated, they begin to glow brighter.

A little about the preparation of buttons. For the US market, the rear window heating button is backlit, by analogy with the hazard warning button. I have two buttons - early green (right) and late yellow (left).


I noticed that the late yellow buttons have another unused pin (1) and some kind of diode...






But there is no such contact in the wiring.


Without thinking long, I added the wire from the backlight! :)


But the "trick" failed! :) The backlight does not work. Then I carefully looked at the ETM diagram and realized that for the US there is a completely different pinout and a different button.


So I left it as it was.

A nuance on the automatic fuse of electric windows. Before restyling, this button was installed above the radio, near the emergency alarm button. After restyling, it was moved to the torpedo console, to all other buttons of electric windows. In my opinion, it is more logical and convenient. Accordingly, these buttons have different body frames. Before the restyling, the button has a thin flat frame (right), and after the restyling, a thick rounded frame (left), like other power window buttons.


And in conclusion, a few more words about the button backlight lamps. I needed to replace several burned out bulbs. In the buttons of the electric windows, they are simply inserted into the cartridge, and in the button of the electric blinds, they are soldered.


By the way, I disassembled all the buttons of the electric windows and cleaned their contacts - the electric windows started to work much better.

It turned out that the new lamps shine much brighter and have a white color of light. Therefore, I used the experience of my friend - I painted the lamps with a special colored varnish - "tsaponlak". It comes in different colors. I bought red, yellow and green.


So, I did it on the recommendation of my friend - dip the lamp in yellow varnish five times, drying each time. Then we dip it once in red varnish.


We get an amber color similar to the factory backlight. In the photo on the left, the lamp after five layers of yellow varnish, and the finished result after one layer of red varnish on the button on the right.


The color of the light has become amber, but they still shine noticeably brighter..... well, that's it... I'll show you after installation! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_120. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Switch on the steering column.

The wiring is completed, now I will write briefly about the switches and buttons.
First, about the switches on the steering column. There are two of them in the basic configuration. On the left, there is a switch for turn signals and headlights. On the right, there is a wiper switch. For each of them, an additional option is provided in the form of a button on the end of the switch. On the left is a button for switching the indicators of the on-board computer. On the right is a button for turning on the intensive cleaning of the windshield.
An additional option is the third switch installed below on the right - the cruise control switch. I already wrote about this in the corresponding section, so here I will write only about the switch itself.
In the presence of an airbag, all switches on the steering column have a slightly different design of their levers.

Steering column switch




Part No. 1 - windshield wiper switch with an intensive windshield cleaning system (61 31 1 372 583)
Part #2 - turn signal and headlight switch and on-board computer (61 31 1 375 186)
Part #3 - screw M5X12 (07 11 9 906 816) - 4 pcs.

Part #4 - switch for fog lights and rear fog lights (61 31 1 368 895). In the basic configuration, this button is "single" (#5), - only for rear fog lights. If there is an additional option of front fog lights, a "double" button (#4) is installed.

Part #6 - lighting switch (61 31 1 376 001). Switches before restyling and after restyling have different connectors. There were other switches for the Scandinavian countries, with the "daytime running lights" mode. An additional K9 relay was also installed there, which automatically turns off the main beam when the fog lights are turned on. I already wrote about this earlier in the section on relays.
Part No. 7 - button (61 31 1 369 277). Switch handle.
Part No. 8 - switch cover (62 11 1 370 655). In my case, this pad also has an optional original wooden pad. I will write about this option separately.

Item No. 9 - the light switch of the drawer for small things. (61 31 1 386 316).

"Top" set of switches:


Connectors for the switch of turn indicators and headlights, and on-board computer:
1 - connector for connecting to the main wiring
2 - connector for connecting to the on-board computer wiring
3 - sound signal connector
4 - turn signal relay connector
5 - ground terminal
I have a switch for the US market, so it is missing the "parking" marker light connector. Unfortunately, this option was not available in the US, although it is quite useful. In it, the switch has additional "extreme" positions after turning on the turn signal, in which only one front and one rear position light bulb is turned on, on the corresponding side of the car. At the same time, the illumination of the number plate and the illumination in the cabin do not turn on. This significantly saves the battery charge during long-term parking on the side of the road. If I find it, I will definitely replace this switch with a "European" one.

Connectors of the wiper switch with the system of intensive cleaning of the windshield:
6 - connector for connecting to the main wiring
7 - ground terminal
Compared to the basic one, this switch has two additional wires going to the TS and PS contacts of the K10 wiper relay.

Cruise control switch connectors:
8 - connector for connecting to the cruise control wiring

The switches are screwed to the steering column. Their "mass" terminals are also screwed there. We connect all connectors.


The connectors of all switches are fixed with each other, and are latched onto the connector of the ignition lock fixed on the steering column. The turn signal relay is also fixed on the steering column.


By the way, in the photo you can see the white connector of the "parking" side lights that is not used. It will be necessary to use it.
Now you can install the plastic cover of the steering column. I already wrote about him in the corresponding section.


Not all the icons on the switches are well preserved, so later I will try to somehow restore them - with engraving or stickers... we'll see.

I almost forgot - we install the decorative ring of the ignition lock in the casing.


A trifle, but the look is much better with it! ;)


Then about the buttons.

[The_Glory]

Collection_119. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 5)

So, the wiring of all the electrical options I currently have in the cabin is installed. Only the wiring of the torpedo remains to be installed.

Jute wires (part 5)




Part #2 - jute wires of the instrument panel (61 11 1 380 476)

1 - connector C103, for connecting the harness to the main wiring. Pinout:

2 - connector of the left repeater of the turn indicator in the wing

3 - light switch connector


4 - front and rear fog lamp button connector
5 - backlight lamp connector

6 - connector of an electronic or hand clock
7 - connector for the button of the button of the backlight of the box for small things
8 - socket for the lamp shade of the box for small things
9 - connector for charging a rechargeable flashlight

10 - connector of the right repeater of the turn indicator in the wing
11 - connector to the Motronic ECU (signal to the tachometer and econometer)

12 - rear window heating button connector (an additional wire for button illumination is added, similar to cars for the USA, and a blue connector for additional button illumination)
13 - emergency stop signal button connector


I made such a "custom" mount for the C103 connector, but it does not hold very well.


We connect the harness to it, and lay out its connectors.


Before laying and fixing all the harnesses, I remembered that I had only one empty G pin left in the C302 accessory connector. And I thought - why not connect to it the "old school" anti-radar that I had lying around for a long time garages? :)


There isn't much use for it now, but it's a "cool" thing from those times :) Yes, there is a "trace" from its attachment on the torpedo, which will now be covered by it ;). So, I wired it to pin G and connected it. :) There was also a corresponding pin - I left it just in case ;)


Now I have C302 fully engaged - FULL! ;)


After installing the immobilizer, the last hole for wiring in the rubber insert of the motor shield was also used - also FULL! ;)


Well, here is such a "garland" of end caps of the driver's door for all additional options - also FULL! ;)


Finally, ALL the wiring is laid in the cabin, now it just needs to be carefully laid and secured under the torpedo. An on-board computer and alarm ECU are installed.


Part of the harness is fixed with special clamps on the steering column bracket. Others will be attached to the torpedo.


Next, about the installation of the torpedo and, in parallel, about fixing the wiring under it.

[The_Glory]

Collection_118. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Multiple startup aborts

I haven't written about wiring in a long time! :)

The last of the original additional options installed in the cabin:

Multiple Start Interruption




Part No. 1 - multiple start interruption (82 91 9 404 260). State anti-theft system.
Part No. 3 - the key of the lock for multiple start interruptions (82 92 9 402 596). Electronic key.
Part No. 4 - lock for multiple interruption of starting (82 92 9 402 605). Electronic lock.
Detail #2, 5...8 - are not used.

I have written before about my original security system with a magnetic key. Unlike it, this system not only warns of unauthorized entry into the car, but also prevents its theft by breaking several electrical power circuits. Together, these two systems are the "prototype" of more modern security and anti-theft systems.
So, I found the original EBA manual, translated it, de-foamed it and figured out the connection. In principle, everything is easier than it seemed at first! ;) In the instructions, German engineers call after installing the system to destroy all pinouts and remove number tags from all connectors to make the task as difficult as possible for potential thieves! :) For this, they even made ALL the wires black! :) The locations of the ECU and the lock according to the instructions are also arbitrary, at the discretion of the owner. Well, I won't share this "terrible" secret, but if someone really needs it, please contact me! ;)

I prepared the standard wiring for connecting the immobilizer back when it was hanging in my garage on the wall - so I just connect the corresponding connectors in "test" mode to make sure that the system works.


The red diode in the lock flashes - this is already a sign that the system is working.


Press the electronic key fob tightly to the lock - the red diode on the key lights up, and at the same time it goes off on the lock - disarmed. Working!


So, the wiring can now be installed on the car.
I decided to place the lock in the cover of the left button above the radio - closer to the ignition switch. There were several types of plugs - with a hole for diodes of various standard alarms. The hole fit perfectly.


Untangled the wires, wound them in the form of a harness of the required length.


I connected and laid the wiring in the cabin and under the hood, "hid" the ECU somewhere under the torpedo - as recommended by German engineers! ;)
The immobilizer is installed.
Next, I lay the wiring of the torpedo, and you can install the torpedo and finish assembling the interior.

P.S.
I wonder if it is possible to order a duplicate electronic key..? And how is it coded? Because I only have one and its case is a little cracked.

[The_Glory]

Collection_117. ETK_52_Seats. Rear seat.

Seats

In the cabin, everything is ready for installing the rear seats.
A little general information about them.
The Touring, Cabriolet, and M3 had rear seats of a different design.
In the Touring, it could be folded to increase the volume of the trunk. Therefore, the back consisted of four parts.
In the cabriolet, the rear seat is narrower and was a two-seater.
In the M3, the rear seat was two-seater, and had additional lateral support in the center.
I will write about sedans in more detail, in the form of an FAQ:
In 2-door and 4-door sedans, the rear seats are structurally different, depending on the year of production, but, in principle, they are interchangeable, although there are some nuances.
The rear seat cushion before 83 had an additional fastening with two bolts to the body.
The pillow for the 2-door sedan has straight front corners, and on the pillow for the 4-door sedan, they are rounded, for convenience when boarding through the rear door. Structurally, they are interchangeable, but if you put a pillow from a 2-door sedan to a 4-door, the front corners will interfere with the comfortable seating of rear passengers. If you put it the other way around, then there will be a large gap between the side of the 2-door body and the seat in the front part.
The cushion and backrest of the rear seat before 85 are on a spring frame, and after 85 are on paralon. They also have a "mirror" location of fasteners for seat belt locks.
Backrests for 2-door and 4-door sedans are the same.
The back can be plain or with an armrest. The armrest cannot be installed on a regular backrest.
The back with an armrest can only be on a spring frame.
Rear headrests can be installed on any backrest.
Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Rear seat heating was not available.
The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars.

So, now about my specific back seat. Initially, a seat on a spring frame was installed, which corresponded to the 84 year of production of the car. But then I completely replaced all the seats with the top kit from the '89 car - front sport seats and rear seat with armrest and headrests. Changed them in black and installed heating on all seats.

Rear seat spring frame / base


As I said above, depending on the year of production, the engine, the type of trim and the configuration of the car, the seats have a lot of ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to specify them.
Detail No. 1, 3 - a spring frame, or a paralon pillow. I have a paralon pillow.


The pillow is additionally heated.


Detail No. 2, 4 - a spring frame, or a paralon back. I have a back with an armrest - it is always on a spring frame. It does not exist on Paralon.


Back heating is additionally installed.


1989 year


Part No. 5 - bolt M6X20-Z3-2 (07 11 9 915 032) - 2 pcs. Additional fastening of the pillow to the body. Only for cars up to 83 years. Not used in this case.
Part No. 6 - SCHWARZ protective cap (52 20 1 844 402) - 2 pcs. Black plastic bolt cover. Only for cars up to 83 years. Not used in this case.
Part No. 7 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07119916965) - 2 pcs. Lower fastening of the back.
Part No. 8 - fastening of the seat belt lock (52 20 1 941 332)
Part No. 9 - fastening of the seat belt lock (52 20 1 941 338)

Installation of the rear seat is very simple. First, we put the back with its staples on the hooks on the body, and fasten the lower fastening with self-tapping screws (#7).


By the way, there is a hole on the plastic threshold cover. I thought that the pad is fixed together with the back with one self-tapping screw. But the holes do not match - it can be seen in the photo. I don't have another hole for the overlay. It is not clear... maybe it also depends on the year of production of the car? Does anyone have a pad bolted to the body at this point?

Insert the belt locks into the fasteners. Pull the straps over the back. We connect the connectors of "custom" heating.


We insert the pillow under the back and fasten its front brackets to the body brackets.


The rear seat is installed.

Seat Cover


Item No. 1 - fabric pillow cover
Detail No. 2 - fabric back covering
Detail #3 - not specified in ETK. It could be the trim clips, but I'm not sure about that...

As I said above, depending on the year of production, engine, and configuration of the car, the seats have many upholstery options with different ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to specify them.
Fabric, artificial leather, and genuine leather upholstery were available. The main colors are black, blue, green, brown, beige, gray, red. Before restyling, and after restyling, these colors had different shades and textures. The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars. There were also special skins for exclusive and individual configurations - M-Technic, Edition and others. On all E30s, the skin has longitudinal seams, except for convertibles, where the seams are transverse.
According to the VIN code, my car had PINIENGRUEN green fabric upholstery (0149) - for cars with 4-cylinder engines (316). But I bought a car with a different interior. The door panels were 0211 ANTHRAZIT and the seats were re-stitched in a similar fabric. After replacing all the seats, I searched for the 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric that was available from 85 for the 6 cylinder engine - just what I needed for my current kit! I still found it and bought it, thanks to a friend.


But in fact, the color was not black, but brown... alas...


At that time, I could not find a black "crow's foot", so I decided to simply sew the seats in black, with transverse seams, like on convertibles. It also turned out very well. But the idea of making the entire interior in black "houndstooth" doesn't leave me... :) Yes, such a fabric is now on sale... I already have a back rest and four headrests in the original 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric. Someday, maybe, I will have the whole salon "crow's foot" 0211 ANTHRAZIT. Or blue "crow's foot" 0212 PACIFIC - door trims are also already available ;)

The photo shows M TECHNIC decorative overlays (52 20 1 927 590) on the back.

For the E30 rear seats, they were only available for convertibles and the M3. But I also installed them - the interior looks much better with them! ;) We pierce the skin with them, and bend their spokes inside. One nuance - although I ordered them new, the color of the stickers on the driver's seat quickly began to fade... Therefore, I "laminated" them with a transparent adhesive film.

Armrest




Detail #1 - fabric armrest
I also wrote about the armrest above - it can only be in a set with a special back on a spring frame. The upholstery, of course, matches the upholstery of the seats. It has a special bracket for fixation on the back frame.


Assembly / disassembly is very simple and fast. We insert the bracket into the slots in the frame and snap it onto the brackets of the frame.


The cover for transporting skis is closed with a lining that is fixed on top with a "velcro" fastener. To use the cover, the armrest is just as easily and quickly removed.


The armrest is installed.


Composite


Rear headrests




Detail #1 - fabric headrest
I repeat - the rear headrests can be installed on any backrest. Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Part No. 2 (No. 3...No. 8) - a set of additional elements of the rear headrest (52 20 9 058 393).




This kit is installed on the back.


It is assembled and screwed to the back with two bolts.


We make holes in the paneling and insert plastic inserts for guiding headrests.


The headrests are simply inserted into the holes. Can be adjusted in height and inclination.


Rear Seat Parts




Detail #1 - a pillow
Detail #2 - back
Part #3 - ANTHRAZIT seat belt lock attachment (52 20 1 941 332). Black plastic fastener for the seat belt buckle.
Part No. 4 - ANTHRAZIT seat belt lock attachment (52 20 1 941 338). Black plastic fastener for the seat belt buckle.

Until 85, the middle seat belt was installed on the left, and its lock was on the right. After 1985, their location was changed, on the contrary - the middle seat belt was installed on the right, and its lock on the left. Accordingly, the fasteners for locks in the backrests before 85 and after 85 are also "mirror". In order to match my pre-85 belts with the post-85 back and shelf, I had to swap the middle belt body mount and its buckle. And everything fell into place! ;)


So, the rear seat in the top configuration is installed.
Interior view with curtains (due to curtains and poor lighting, photo quality is poor).




Now, in a completely black salon, it became dark and scary! )))


Later, outside, in sunny weather, there will be better photos! :)

Next, I will install the torpedo, and then the front seats. This is all that is left of the cabin.

[The_Glory]

Collection_116. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Sunscreen curtain of the rear door window

I return to the interior assembly.
The rear doors are fully assembled, so you can install sun blinds on them.
This is probably the rarest original E30 option available.
Retrofitting, accessories

So,
Rear Door Window Sun Shade




Part No. 1 - a kit for retrofitting the rear door window sunshade (51 16 1 942 230). All four curtains come under the same number, so it is not possible to order them separately. Although, the whole set is also not available for order for a long time.


Part #2 - hook (51 16 1 942 910) - 4 pcs. To fix the curtain of the opening window.
Part No. 3 - Velcro (51 16 1 942 912) - 2 pcs. For fixing the curtain of the blind part of the window.
Detail #4 - door lock button. The number in ETK is not indicated for some reason. It has a higher height compared to a standard button.
The ETK also does not specify rubber pads on the joints of the curtains.


Almost 10 years ago, I was lucky enough to find and buy this kit new.


The kit included glue for the rubber pads, but it already dried :) There was also the original EBA installation instructions.


The design and installation of curtains is very simple, even a little "artisan" :) They are simply clamped tightly under the glass seals, and glued with double-sided tape. Not a very reliable design, so you need to use them very carefully! Despite this, one of my blinds still broke. In the summer, in the sun, the scotch tape that holds the velcro of the curtains will peel off, and it will twist under the action of the spring. Once, her axle came off the spring. I had to repair it and use it even more carefully! :)


Ten years ago, I described the process of installing these curtains in great detail, but I will briefly repeat it again.
First, we insert the hook on the front end of the curtain under the glass seal.


Then we lower the curtain down and put its "tab" under the seal of the window frame.


We push the "tab" on the back end of the curtain under the blind glass seal.


We press the curtain to the door panel so that the tape sticks to the front part. We twist the elongated button of the door lock.




We fasten the hooks above the curtain loops, under the glass seal.


The horizontal blind is installed.




We insert the axis of the vertical curtain into the seat on the horizontal curtain.


The upper part is clamped under the seal with two hooks on both sides of the window frame.






The vertical blind is installed.


We stick rubber pads on the joint and on the upper end. Instead of glue, I used double-sided tape. In case you need to remove them. In the lower corner of the blind glass, we stick a velcro on double-sided tape.


Curtains are installed.










Interior photos will come a little later when the rear seat is installed, but for now here are my old photos.






P.S.
Just for information.
Only one horizontal curtain was installed on the touring door. Photo from the Internet:


I have already written about the rear shelf with a sun shade. But there was another overhead curtain for a sedan - on the rear window. It was attached by a similar method to the grids of the standard rear shelf.
Sunshield


Part No. 1 - a kit for retrofitting the sun blind (82 12 9 406 983). No longer available to order.
Part #2 - not used.
Part #3 - hook (82 12 9 413 176). Metal hook for attaching the overhead rear sun shade to the shelf bars. Photo from the Internet:




Part #4 - hook (82 12 9 413 178). Screws on the curtain.
Part No. 5 - hook (82 12 9 413 177). Screwed to the body.


Item No. 6 is not used.

I finished with the curtains, now I'm putting the back seat.