E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_159. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture (part 2)

Air flow meter




Part No. 1 - air flow meter (13 62 1 286 615) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - cap (13 62 1 363 874) - 1 pc. Red plastic cap. I once had it, but then it got lost somewhere. It is still available for order, but its price is not adequate, in my opinion. That's why I just selected the size of the plug from the ones I had in the garage.
Part No. 3 - rubber-metal hinge (13 71 1 272 495) - 3 pcs. Apparently this is a bug in ETK. These hinges are not used on E30 with M20B25.
Part #4 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 7 134 319) - 3 pcs. Not used.
Part No. 5 - L-shaped idle control valve (13 41 1 286 065) - 1 pc. It is T-shaped (13 41 1 433 626). It differs in the location of the flanges.
Part No. 6 - rubber bracket (13 41 1 705 5640 - 1 pc. For cars with a catalyst.
Part No. 7 - bracket (13 41 1 708 832) - 1 pc. For cars with a catalyst.
Part No. 8 - corrugated casing (13 71 1 708 800) - 1 pc. It differs for different idle control valves.
Part #9, #10 - clamp L71-78 (07 12 9 952 129) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - hose (13 41 1 718 777) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - clamp L28-33 (07 12 9 952 113) - 2 pcs. Used only on cars after 88. But I decided to install them as well just in case.
Part No. 13 - rubber ring (13 71 1 272 494) - 1 pc. It is used only for heavy operating conditions (Heavy Duty). In my case it is not used.
Part No. 14...No. 17 - motor wiring connectors for the idle control valve and the air flow meter. I wrote about them in the section on motor wiring.

My air flow meter works fine, no one has done any DIY work on it, so I just cleaned it and painted it. And put the red plug in the adjustment hole.






Suction silencer. Filter Variable




Part No. 1 - suction silencer (13 71 1 726 965) - 1 pc. Plastic housing for the air filter.
Part #2 - replaceable filter element (13 72 1 720 861) - 1 pc. I use a BOSCH S9964 filter.

Part No. 3 - mounting bracket L=34MM (13 71 1 707 0440 - 4 pcs.
Part No. 4 - rubber pad (13 71 1 312 328) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rubber-metal hinge (13 71 1 259 818) - 2 pcs. I did not remove them from the filter housing.
Part No. 6 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 7 134 319) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - sealing gasket (13 71 1 705 064) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - locking nut M6 (51 21 1 803 3630 - 4 pcs.

Part #9 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 1 pc. Installed in the filter housing.
Part No. 10 - suction pipe (13 71 1 713 1280 - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - snorkel (13 71 1 284 612) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used. An insert in the headlight cover is used instead. I will write about this in the appropriate section.

There is another version of the housing for the air filter - with a metal box, for heavy operating conditions (Heavy Duty).

Suction silencer. Filter Variable


In my case, only one detail is used from it:
Part No. 7 - rubber pad (13 71 1 312 328) - 1 pc. I do not understand why it is not in the previous section of ETK. A place for its installation is also provided on the plastic case.

We screw the air flow meter to the filter housing with four No. 8 nuts, through a No. 7 gasket and one bolt, which is not specified in the ETK.
We snap a plastic diffuser into the filter housing, which for some reason is not specified in the ETK at all. Install filter #2 and brackets #3.


We close the filter housing and fix it with staples.






We install rubber insert No. 4 on the spar, and insert No. 7 on the bracket.


I installed the idle speed regulator valve bracket on the manifold even earlier.


We install the filter housing in the grooves of the bracket and fasten with two nuts together with the cruise control drive bracket.
We install the corrugation and the idle speed regulator valve, fix everything with clamps. We install the suction pipe. We connect the wiring connectors to the flow meter and the idle control valve.


Next, about vacuum hoses.

[The_Glory]

Collection_158. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture (part 1)

So, let's move on to the ETK section
Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture

I previously wrote about the assembly and installation of the choke. Now about other divisions.
I installed some parts a long time ago, when I was laying the fuel pipes, but I will write about them now.

Fuel supply system, filter




Part No. 1 - fuel filter D=80MM ( 13 32 1 270 038) - 1 pc. I always use a Mahle KL9 filter.
Part #2 - fuel filter with separator D=82MM (13 32 1 278 330) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 3 - fuel filter bracket (13 32 1 713 062) - 1 pc. At the same time, it is a bracket for an adsorber.
Part #4 - clamp L77-84 (07 12 9 952 131) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M6 nut (07 14 7 134 319) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used.
Part #6 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - elastic ring B6 (07 11 9 933 082) - 2 pcs.
Part #8, #11 - fuel hose 8X13MM (16 12 1 180 409).
Part #9, #12 - fuel line (13 32 1 289 037). In my case it is not used.
Part No. 10 - clamp L12-15 (07 12 9 952 104) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 13 - hollow screw M14X1.5X26 (32 41 6 783 886) - 2 pcs. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 4 pcs. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 15 - fuel hose bracket (13 54 1 287 046) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - protective edging GRAU (51 72 1 832 146) - 1 pc.

We screw the filter bracket to the spar, fix the filter with a clamp. We put a protective edging on the edge of the spar so that the hose does not rub against it. We connect the hoses with clamps to the corresponding fuel tubes.
Fuel supply hose.


Tank return and ventilation hoses.


We fix the supply and return hoses to each other with a plastic bracket (#15).


The filter and its hoses are installed.

Fuel tank ventilation valve




Part No. 1 - fuel tank ventilation valve AB-ELEKTRONIK (13 90 1 726 705) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - fuel hose 32MM-210MM (13 31 1 288 284).
Part #3 - fuel hose 6X11MM (13 31 1 272 750).
Item No. 4 is not used.
Part #5 - fuel hose 8X13MM (16 12 1 180 409).
Part No. 6 - adapter - 1 pc. For some reason it is not listed in ETK.

We connect the hoses with clamps according to the diagram.




But we connect it to the adsorber.


We fix the adsorber with a clamp on the fuel filter bracket, connect the tank ventilation hoses to the corresponding tube.


We fix the ventilation hoses to each other with a plastic bracket.


We connect the valve to the throttle together with the vacuum tubes. I will write about it later.

Idle control system ECU




On earlier versions, a separate idle control ECU was installed near the Motronic ECU. It is not provided for in my, more recent, motor wiring. So, from this section, in my case, only sensors are used. I have already written about them in other sections.

Part No. 13 - temperature sensor (12 62 1 710 512) - 1 pc. For instrument panel (brown on 1 pin)
Part No. 14 - temperature sensor M12X1.5 (13 62 1 709 966) - 1 pc. For Motronic ECU (blue on 2 pins)
Part No. 15 - oil pressure sensor (61 31 1 354 274) - 1 pc.

We install the temperature sensors in the thermostat housing and connect them to the motor wiring.


We install the oil pressure sensor in the engine block under the oil filter and connect it to the yellow connector of the engine wiring.


We lay its wire together with the wire of the crankshaft position sensor.


Next, about the air filter and air flow meter.

[The_Glory]

Collection_157. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. DME pulse sensor

So, the latest ETK subdivisions on engine electrical equipment.

DME pulse sensor




Item No. 1...No. 3 are not used. Instead of them, the torpedo mounting brackets shown in the photo are used to mount the ECU.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X19 (07 11 9 916 970) - 4 pcs. For mounting the ECU.
Part No. 5 - sheet nut ST6,3-1 (07 12 9 925 742) - 4 pcs. For mounting the ECU.
Part No. 6 - ECU connector housing 35 pins (12 52 1 270 971) - 1 pc. I have already written about all motor wiring connectors in the corresponding section.

Part No. 7 - pulse sensor (12 14 1 710 668) - 1 pc. Crankshaft position sensor. I also wrote about him before.
Part No. 8 - bolt M6X16 (07 12 9 905 536) - 1 pc. For mounting the sensor.
Part #9 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 0990 - 1 pc. For attaching the sensor.
Part No. 10 - bracket (12 14 1 710 747) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - wire holder D=12.8MM (61 13 1 267 476) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - bracket (12 52 1 711 227) - 1 pc. A bracket for fixing the diagnostic connector and the connectors of the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. I have already written about him before.
Part No. 13 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 905 524) - 1 pc. Apparently this bolt is used for earlier brackets. In my case, it is not used, since the bracket is screwed with an M8 nut to the stud of the intake manifold.
Part No. 14 - spiral hose (61 13 1 363 375) - 1 pc. Plastic protective tube for the sensor wire.

So, I installed the pulse sensor at the engine assembly stage, so I simply repeat the photo of its installation on the engine.
Screw the sensor to a special bracket. We put a protective spiral tube on its wire. It protects against contact with the pulley.


We lay the wire above the water pump, through a protective plastic case.


We fix the connector in the bracket that is screwed to the intake manifold.


We connect to the motor wiring.


I installed parts #10 and #11 on the manifold stud along with the wiring and oil dipstick brackets.. Not sure if it's supposed to be that way but I couldn't find another place for them.


We fix the wiring in them.


Now, finally, about the interior part - installation and connection of the ECU.

DME

Part No. 1 - ECU DME (12 14 1 710 537) - 1 pc.
Several ECU options were available for the M20B25 engine. Most often it is Motronic 1.1 or Motronic 1.3.
Table from the Internet:

12
325e/es
E30
M20/B27 (122hp)
9/84-12/86
0 261 200 027
Bosch Motronic Basic M1.0

13
325e/es
E30
M20/B27 (127hp)
1/87-9/87
0 261 200 154
Bosch Motronic M1.1

14
325i/ECE
E30
M20/B25 (171hp)
85-87
0 261 200 081
Bosch Motronic M1.0

15
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 153
Bosch Motronic M1.1

16
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 173
Bosch Motronic M1.3

17
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 351
Bosch Motronic M1.3

18
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 380
Bosch Motronic M1.3

19
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 382
Bosch Motronic M1.3

20
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 524
Bosch Motronic M1.3

21
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 525
Bosch Motronic M1.3

22
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 526
Bosch Motronic M1.3

I had two ECUs Motronic 1.1 (0 261 200 153) and Motronic 1.3 (0 261 200 173). Self-diagnosis function is available in Motronic 1.3 - I already wrote about it earlier. But for now I installed Motronic 1.1, because Motronic 1.3 was not working. I will replace it later.
I installed the ECU when I was installing the torpedo, so I'm also just repeating the installation photo.
The ECU is screwed to the torpedo brackets and connected to the motor wiring.


There we connect the white 3-pin connector of the tachometer and the economizer, and the black 1-pin connector of the air conditioner. The connectors of the automatic transmission remain unused, we fasten them to the wiring harness. Maybe someday I'll want to install an automatic transmission, then I'll connect them! ;)
The ECU is covered with a plastic shield.


So, all the electrical equipment of the engine is installed and connected.

Next, we go to the ETK section on preparation and adjustment of the working mixture.

[The_Glory]

Collection_156. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Ignition coil. Starter.

Ignition coil




Part No. 1 - ignition coil (12 13 1 286 087) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - clamp (12 13 1 286 080) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - M6 nut (23 11 2 322 368) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - spacer washer 6.4 (07 11 9 931 044) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M5 nut (07 11 9 922 038) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer 5.3 (07 11 9 936 439) - 1 pc.
Part #7 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 1 pc.

We screw the coil with a clamp to the pin on the body. We screw the terminals of the motor wiring to its contacts. We close the contacts with a rubber cover.


The ignition coil is installed and connected.

Only the starter motor remained under the hood of the engine's electrical equipment.
Starter




Part 1 - starter 1.1KW (12 41 1 361 874) - 1 pc.

My starter had already been completely rebuilt before so I just cleaned and painted it.
Type N 0 001 108 018








Therefore, I do not consider the sections on its details.
Starter parts


Starter details


But I will say that, as it turned out, there are two types of starters. About this in the next section.

Starter mounting elements




Part #1 - bolt M10X75 (11 11 1 735 525) - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - elastic washer B10 (07 11 9 932 1220 - 4 pcs.
Part #3 - M10 nut (07 12 9 900 8120 - 2 pcs.

Item No. 4...8 are not used.

Part No. 9 - cover of traction relay (61 13 1 361 340) - 1 pc. Rubber sheet.
Part No. 10 - bandage L=292MM/B=4.8MM (61 13 1 377 134) - 2 pcs. Plastic screeds.


Never seen this original rubber cover on cars, but it is a very simple and effective protection against water for the starter terminals. The pad is put on the wire of the terminal, and fixed with two clamps. Everything ingenious is simple! (with) :)




We get such a "visor" over the terminals.


I tried it on the engine - a roof for the starter! :)




And now about details #4...8. Another inaccuracy in ETK. Bracket No. 6 is not used, and its fasteners No. 4, 5, 7, 8 are used - not logically. My motor just had a #7 bolt with a #8 washer. I got curious and found bracket #6 in ETK - 12 41 1 266 711. It is for M20 motors. So I decided to install it too just in case. :) I barely found it, cleaned it, galvanized it. I started to install, and here is the fiasco! :) It does not fit the size of the pins.


In addition, it does not fit the length of the starter!


There is no point in leaving it like that - it is not very convenient to screw the terminals there anyway.


Therefore, I removed it, and left the bolt with the washer as it was - as a plug.


And the whole point is that there are two types of starters for the M20.
"Reducer" - like mine.
And "without gearbox", - earlier.
So, this bracket is only suitable for a "gearless" starter. Now I know it! :)

The starter was installed after the engine was installed - it is not very convenient to do it, but it was installed. We connect the cable from the battery and the terminals of the motor wiring. The terminals are of different diameters, so it is impossible to mix them up.


Terminals under the roof. ;)


By the way, you can make the visor yourself - I removed the dimensions from the original one, if anyone needs it.


That's it for the electrical equipment of the engine under the hood - only its interior part remains. More on that later.

[The_Glory]

Collection_155. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment.

I will briefly write about all the details of the engine's electrical equipment.
Earlier, I already wrote about the elements of fastening the wiring harness on the engine. Now about fasteners under the hood.

Fixing elements of the wiring harness (part 2 )




Part #1 - protective cap (12 52 1 279 703). Perhaps this is a mistake. I have never come across this detail on an E30 (photo from the Internet).

Judging by the photo from the Internet, it was used on earlier models with Jetronic.

Therefore, the part is not used.
Part #2 - protective cap (12 52 1 284 465) - 1 pc. This part is only used on early E30 models up to 1985, with the rectangular C101 connector which is fixed to the fuse box housing. This cover covers the connector C101. Photo from the Internet.


Since my wiring is later, the part is not used.
Part No. 3 - cover (12 52 1 286 052) - 1 pc. This is a red cover for the diagnostic connector on cars before 1985. Similarly with detail #2, not used.
Part No. 4 - protective cap (12 52 1 279 603) - 1 pc. Motor wiring relay cover.
Part No. 5 - bracket ( 12 52 1 279 602) - 1 pc. Bracket for mounting the motor wiring relay.
Part No. 6 - rubber sleeve (61 31 1 369 343) - 1 pc. This is a rubber sleeve in the washer fluid tank, into which the fluid level sensor is inserted. Why it is in this section, I do not understand.

Part #7 - connector holder C101 (12 52 1 710 729) - 1 pc. In ETK, for some reason, it is written that this is a diagnostic connector holder - this is a mistake.
It is screwed to the shield.

Fixes connector C101.


Wiring Plug Connection


I already wrote about these connectors in the section on motor wiring.

Part #1...5 - connector C101 assembly. I connect the motor wiring with the main wiring. Fixed in a special bracket on the left of the motor shield.

Part No. 6...9 - diagnostic connector assembly. Fixed in a special bracket on the intake manifold.



Another ETK section on motor wiring connectors.
Wiring plug connection


I already wrote about these connectors in the section on motor wiring. I have them all in good condition, so I did not disassemble them, and I did not replace anything in them. That is why there is nothing to write about.

ETK section on wiring fastening.
Wiring holder


There are a lot of different clips and clamps, and I can't imagine where they can all be used at the same time. Therefore, I also do not see the point of writing about it in detail here. I have already written about these details in the sections on different wiring harnesses. In the motor wiring, I used only a few of them - #1, 2, 3, 13, 14, 15, 17, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27.

Engine relay




There are also a lot of relays, but in fact only two types of relays are used in motor wiring.
Part No. 1 (No. 2) - relay (61 31 1 373 588) - 2 pcs. Fuel pump relay and lambda probe heating relay. It's the same 4-pin relay as the relay in the fuse box. Mostly orange. It can be yellow, brown, or blue. I wrote about it in the section on the fuse block.
Part No. 10 - relay (61 36 1 729 004) - 1 pc. Main relay. Specific 5-pin relay. White color.

All other relays are not used in my case.

Another ETK section on the fuel pump relay.
Fuel pump relay


Again some inaccuracy of ETK. For my motor wiring, the fuel pump relay is in the previous section. And all these relays are probably for earlier Jetronic models.
So, in my case, these relays are not used.

The relays are fixed on a plastic bracket that snaps onto the body bracket.




1 - lambda probe heating relay.
2 - fuel pump relay.
3 - the main relay.

Relays are closed with a plastic cover




So, that's it for the details of the engine's electrical equipment.

Now I will write about connecting the hoses to the engine. I already wrote about them in the relevant sections, so here we simply screw them to the installed engine.

Right engine cushion with heat shield. We screw the tubes of the oil cooler to the flanges of the oil filter adapter. Of course with new rubber rings.


Left engine cushion. Before installing the engine, I bolted the power steering hoses to the steering rack. I will write about them separately.


We fasten the interior heater hoses - the lower one for supply, the upper one for return.


I will write about fuel hoses later.


Next, about the starter and the ignition coil.

[The_Glory]

Collection_154. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Engine wiring harness

So, the motor is installed, I also installed the wiring harness earlier - you just need to connect everything.

Engine wiring harness




Part #1 - engine wiring harness (12 51 1 711 212).




1 - Motronic ECU connector
2 - connector for connecting the tachometer and the economizer (before restyling)
3 - connector for automatic transmission, selector position (I'm not sure exactly)
4 - connector for automatic transmission (I'm not sure)
5 - connector for connecting the air conditioner (signal of increased idle speed when the air conditioner is turned on)
6 - connector for lambda probe
7.1, 7.2 - ignition coil terminals "+" and "-"
8 - "mass" terminals

9 - connector C101 for connection to the main wiring
10 - fuel injector connectors (6 pcs.)
11 - temperature sensor connector for the Motronic ECU (blue on 2 pins)
12 - temperature sensor connector for the instrument panel (brown on 1 pin)

13.1, 13.2 - starter terminals "+" and "-"
14 - throttle position sensor connector
15 - tank ventilation valve connector
16 - valve connector of the idle speed regulator
17 - air flow meter connector
18 - lambda-probe heating relay connector
19 - fuel pump relay connector
20 - main relay connector
21 - crankshaft position sensor connector
22 - camshaft position sensor connector
23.1, 23.2 - generator terminals
24 - oil level sensor connector
25 - diagnostic connector
26 - connector for connecting the air conditioner
27 - oil pressure sensor connector
28* - oil level sensor connector for OIL Level Matic (aftermarket, I added it myself)


So, the wiring goes through the motor shield on the right, into the cabin, to the Motronic ECU. There, connectors 1, 2, 5 (and 3 and 4 if there is an automatic transmission) are connected to it. I will write about this later, but now we will talk about its underhood part.
We screw the "mass" terminals to the right body strut, screw the terminals to the ignition coil, fix the wiring with clips. The lambda probe connector will be connected after the exhaust system is installed.


We put the harness in a special holder on the shield and fix it with ties and one clamp. We install the C101 connector in a special holder and connect it to the main wiring.


You need three such clamps in total. Two more on the intake manifold.


The first collar on the collector


I also placed the air conditioner connector here. By default, it should be somewhere near the compressor, but since I connected the restyling wiring of the air conditioner through adapters, I will have it here. There is no point in dragging it through the entire engine compartment.
The second collar on the collector.


We fix the wiring with clips to the oil dipstick brackets.


We connect the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, install the diagnostic connector.




We fasten the terminals of the generator and its "mass" wire.


We connect the oil level sensor and screw the cable of the main "mass" of the engine to the pallet.




The air flow meter connector will be connected after it is installed. We install the relay holder, fix them there and cover with a plastic cover.


We fasten the additional "ground" wire of the valve cover (65 31 1 286 069). I made it myself - almost no different from the original ;)


Fuel injector connectors will be connected after they are installed.


We connect temperature sensors for the instrument panel (1 pin) and for the Motronic ECU (2 pins).


Next will be about connecting other electrical equipment of the engine, and connecting all hoses.

[mjweimer]

Thank you, I would like to do it sooner, but in the current situation it is difficult...

I totally understand yet cannot fathom...stay safe brother.

[The_Glory]

Beautiful! All of your hard work is really coming together nicely. Getting the engine and driveline installed is a big step, you'll have it running in no-time.

Thank you, I would like to do it sooner, but in the current situation it is difficult...

[mjweimer]

Beautiful! All of your hard work is really coming together nicely. Getting the engine and driveline installed is a big step, you'll have it running in no-time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_153. Engine installation

So, finally everything is completely ready and this day has come! :)
Since my garage is not very suitable for installing the engine due to the lack of a normal floor and a lifting winch, I had to do it in my friend's garage. The same place where it was removed from the car earlier. But, for this, first you need to somehow get that engine out of the basement... It has quite a lot of weight, so they pulled it out in a simple and ingenious way! :)


I drew my "x" on a sheet of metal along with a wooden pallet. It turned out quite quickly and easily!


But it was more difficult to load it into the car! But the four of us did it.


Now it was necessary to get the car out. It seemed that it was even easier, but it didn't work the first time. This is all because of the "reliable" Chinese towing cables that broke three times! It was not without "victims"... my "x" suffered a little - a metal hook flew right into the bumper grill... :( But it's good that it didn't hit the headlight, or the glass, or the radiator... And it's even better that not in the "thirties"!


After all, the E30 rolled out onto the street for the first time in several years!






Of the brakes, only the handbrake works, because the calipers have not yet been installed. Therefore, we slowly and very carefully drove to our friend's garage. It's good that it's nearby, we got there without any problems.


During the work, there was no time for a photo, so the result is already ready - everything is installed from below, except for the exhaust system.


The photo on the way home was a bit unsuccessful :)


The descent into the garage was also successful.
So, the engine, gearbox with clutch and cardan shaft are installed. It remains to connect the wiring and hoses.
But even so it looks good - I like it! ;)












This is some progress! :)
Now I'm installing all the parts under the hood - next time I'll write about it.

[The_Glory]

Your build looks so beautiful! слава україні! One question, how important is this damper? I'm restoring a 1988 4 door (building into a drift car), I have been away from the car for about decade, but do have two E30's worth of parts to a certain extent so it's been a lot of digging through bins I labeled long ago. Also have ordered half an M20's worth of parts from pelican from what was available. It's a 2.7L with a 325is head and Shrick 288 on MegaSquirt 3.0 with external Bosch mosfet's driving MSD GM 44kv coil packs in a wasted spark configuration, 42lbs Mustang injectors...

Thanks!
Героям слава!!
This damper is important for comfort. It dampens vibrations from the transmission. But how noticeable this effect is, I can't say, because I haven't had it before. I think that the difference is not significant. It is definitely not needed for motorsport - it is an extra one and a half kilograms of weight that needs to be rotated.
You have a cool sports specification!

[E30Eric]

Your build looks so beautiful! слава україні! One question, how important is this damper? I'm restoring a 1988 4 door (building into a drift car), I have been away from the car for about decade, but do have two E30's worth of parts to a certain extent so it's been a lot of digging through bins I labeled long ago. Also have ordered half an M20's worth of parts from pelican from what was available. It's a 2.7L with a 325is head and Shrick 288 on MegaSquirt 3.0 with external Bosch mosfet's driving MSD GM 44kv coil packs in a wasted spark configuration, 42lbs Mustang injectors...

[The_Glory]

Collection_152. ETK_26_Cardan shaft

It remains to prepare the cardan shaft.
Cardan shaft

Elastic coupling / intermediate support of the cardan shaft




Part #1 - centering sleeve (26 11 7 526 611) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - elastic coupling LK=78MM/D=110MM (26 11 1 225 624) - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - damper of torsional vibrations (26 11 1 434 254) - 1 pc. After 1988. I will write a little more about him below.

Part #4 - bolt M10X50/10.9 (26 11 1 209 498) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bolt M10X50/10.9 (26 11 1 225 744) - 3 pcs. Or bolt #4. I had all the bolts the same.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer A10 (26 11 1 225 821) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 6 - elastic washer B10 (07 11 9 932 122) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 7 - M10 nut (07 12 9 964 672) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 8 - file (26 11 1 225 089) - 1 pc. I did not remove it from the cardan shaft.

Part #9 - radial bearing D=55/D=30 (26 12 1 225 071) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - intermediate support 55X13X30 (26 12 1 225 152) - 1 pc. Assembled with bearing No. 9. Analogue of SWAG 20870005.

Part No. 11 - file D=30X58X5.5-CRH (26 11 1 225 088) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - retaining ring (26 12 3 648 156) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 (No. 15) - threaded ring with clamping ring (26117514037) - 1 pc. Collected from No. 15.
Part No. 14 - gear washer (26 11 1 209 285) - 1 pc.

Part No. 15 (No. 13) - threaded ring with clamping ring (26117514037) - 1 pc. Collected from No. 13. Analogue of SWAG 20926858.

Part No. 16 - screw M10X25 (26 11 1 206 718) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 17 - nut M10 (07 12 9 964 672) - 4 pcs.

Part No. 18 - bolt M8X22 (07 11 9 915 160) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 19 - a repair kit for cardan crosspieces with hinges.

There is no photo of the cardan shaft assembly. They collected it in a friend's garage - there was no time to take pictures. But it looks somewhere the same ;)
Cardan shaft / universal joint


Part No. 1 - cardan shaft of a 5-speed manual transmission (26 11 1 225 635).

The crosses are in good shape so I left them as they were.

Briefly on the assembly of the cardan shaft.
First, we change the centering sleeve No. 1. Although it was possible to leave the old one, but I decided to replace it. It turned out not to be so simple. It was possible to pull out the old sleeve only by hollowing out its rubber part and cutting a thread on it. We press a new one.
Then we press the bearing of the intermediate support No. 10 with the shoulder close to the file No. 8. We install file no. 11, fix it with locking ring no. 12. We put the ring No. 13 (No. 15) and toothed washer No. 14 on the shaft.
We connect both parts of the cardan shaft along the slots. When I took it apart, I marked the relative position of both parts. They collected it according to these marks. Otherwise, you will have to rebalance the gimbal. We tighten the threaded ring No. 13.
We insert the elastic coupling #2 into the damper #3 and fasten it to the cardan shaft with three bolts #4.
The cardan shaft is ready for installation.

But, in fact, it was not so simple! :)
As I wrote in the previous post, the gimbal rested on the short-stroke Z3M link, so I had to replace it with a standard one. And these are not all problems.
I didn't have damper #3 before. Since, according to ETK, it should be on the 325i model, I decided to install it. But with the Z3M backstage, of course, it was completely out of place. After replacing the scenes with a standard one, I had to get up. But again, no! He resisted the pull. Since the work was being done at my friend's garage, which had to be vacated quickly, there was no time to deal with it and look for other details. Therefore, they removed that damper and installed the cardan shaft without it, as it was before.
But I was wondering what the problem was, so now, I figured it out at least a little... at least theoretically! ;)

So, as I wrote in a previous post, the pull and clamp are different before '89 and after '89. Photo from the Internet.
An early clip shifts the traction to the side, thereby moving it away from the damper.


In addition, the early thrust (25 11 1 220 838) in the area of the damper has a special stamping, and axles of different lengths.


Perhaps this is exactly what allows you to install a damper.

The late drive (25 11 1 221 657) is straight, with axles of the same length as mine.


There is also a curved thrust (25 11 1 221 250), which according to ETK is applied to engines M40, M42 in E30, and to M50, M20 in E34.


There are also two types of dampers for the E30.
Until 1988 (23 13 1 222 514).


And after 1988 (26 11 1 434 254).


So, I have a post-89 bracket, a post-89 tie rod, a post-88 damper - everything fits... Why doesn't it fit?? :)
How to make this "puzzle"? If anyone knows, I would be grateful for tips. Later, when it may become completely boring, I will still try to install it... ;)

Next time, finally, I will write about the installation of the engine, gearbox with clutch, and cardan shaft.

[The_Glory]

Collection_151. ETK_25_Gearshift mechanism

The gearbox is ready for installation, but you still need to install the gear shifting mechanism on it.
Gear shift mechanism

Manual Gear Shift Mechanism




Part No. 1 (No. 2...No. 12) - gear shift lever (25 11 1 220 326) - 1 pc. The lever is assembled, and of course I did not disassemble it completely. Second lever (25 11 7 527 254) for Z3 M3.2. This is a more "sporty" short-stroke lever. But running ahead, I will say that it was not possible to install it - it rested on the gimbal. I don't know why, but somehow they put it on the E30... Maybe for this you need a cardan with a smaller diameter from the younger models. Therefore, it was necessary to replace it with a standard lever.

Part No. 13 - gear shift lever cover (25 11 1 220 204) - 1 pc. It comes complete with a plastic frame for its fastening. I have it sewn from a leather substitute. Maybe later I will order from genuine leather.


The design of the shift mechanism is significantly different before September 1985 and after September 1985. At the same time, on early versions of the manual transmission, there is no attachment for a later mechanism, and on late manual transmissions, both types of gear shifting mechanisms can be installed. In September 1989, minor changes were made to the design and mounting of the shifter linkage. In my case, this is the latest option, after 1989 - but I realized this only when I encountered some difficulties during installation. :)
Manual Gear Shift Mechanism




Part No. 1 - gearshift lever support frame (25 11 1 221 201) - 1 pc. It can be of different lengths for different motors and manual transmissions.
Part #2 - sleeve L=26MM (25 11 7 519 669) - 1 pc. Rubber sleeve.
Part No. 3 - support frame mounting axis D=10MMX40MM (25 11 1 221 849) - 1 pc.
Item No. 4 is not used.
Part No. 5 - terminal (25 11 1 220 837) - 1 pc. Plastic clip for fixing the wiring on the frame.
Part No. 6 - gear shift lever support (25 11 1 220 600) - 1 pc. Plastic sleeve.

Part No. 7 - casing (25 11 1 220 912) - 1 pc. Rubber lever cover.
Part No. 8 - hinged bracket for fastening the gear shift lever support frame (25 11 1 220 707) - 1 pc. A metal bracket with a rubber sleeve for rear frame mounting.
Part No. 9 - M8 nut (07 12 9 906 196) - 1 pc.

Part No. 10 - straight gear shift drive rod (25 11 1 221 657) - 1 pc. After 1989. For some reason, I have it boiled in the middle, it must have been shortened. They are of several types and of different lengths. It has some nuances, but I will write about them in the section on the cardan.
Part No. 11 - plastic washer 10X16X0.9 (25 11 1 220 439) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - locking clip (25 11 7 571 899) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - gear selection rod clip (25 11 7 503 525) - 1 pc. After 1989.
Part No. 14 - ring of round cross-section 10X2.2 (25 11 1 221 243) - 2 pcs. Only until 1989. For the version after 1989, they are not used and do not physically fit on the axle. But I didn't know about it and I still put one ring in there! The second one didn't fit :)

Part No. 15 - spacer washer 16X10.2X0.65 (25 11 1 220 199) - 1 pc. For the version after 1989, washer #11 is used.
Part No. 16 - locking washer 8.0 (07 11 9 932 863) - 1 pc.

Part No. 17 - cylindrical pin (23 41 1 466 134) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - elastic sleeve (25 11 1 203 682) - 1 pc.
Part No. 19 - plastic washer (25 11 1 434 194) - 1 pc. Soft plastic insert.
Part No. 20 - reverse lamp switch wiring (23 14 1 220 263) - 1 pc.
Part No. 21 - terminal (61 13 8 364 037) - 1 pc. Metal clip for fixing the wiring on the manual transmission.

The rubber sleeve is pressed into the frame using a regular bolt with a nut.


We insert the lever into the pivot support No. 6. We click the support in frame No. 1, turning it clockwise. Lubricate the hinge. We put rubber cover No. 7 on the lever and pass wiring No. 20 through it. We fix the wiring on the frame with plastic clip No. 5. We install bracket No. 8 on the frame. The upper part of the mechanism is assembled.


In clip #13, there was a large artifact in the plastic sleeve. I ordered a new bushing from the turner and pressed it into the clamp.


We insert the soft insert No. 19 into the clip. The clip is fixed on the gear selection rod with a cylindrical pin #17. The pin is fixed with an elastic sleeve No. 18.


We install the clip on the No. 10 pull. We install the thrust on the lever.
Gear shift mechanism is fully assembled.




We install the clip on the gear selector rod and fix it with a pin.


We fix the pin with an elastic sleeve.


We insert the axle of the frame #3 into the body of the manual transmission and snap it into place. We put the metal clip No. 21 on the body of the manual transmission and fix the wiring in it. We connect the wiring to the reverse lamp switch.


The gear shifting mechanism is installed on the manual transmission.


Now the gearbox is completely ready for installation on the car.


It remains only to install the handle on the lever.
Before restyling, "round" handles were available in various versions.
Gear Knob / Covers / Emblems


Maybe one day I will buy such a handle for the collection, but for now I will have the handle installed after the restyling.
Gear Knob / Covers / Emblems




After the restyling, the handles were also available in many variants. In my case, it is a wooden handle - I already wrote about it in the section on decoration from valuable wood species.
Part No. 11 - wooden lever handle (25 11 1 221 674) - 1 pc.
Item No. 3 - 5-GANG/SCHWARZ sticker (25111221611) - 1 pc.


I also already wrote about the condition of the pen - it will be restored. The emblem will also be replaced by #8 (25 11 1 221 612) M-TECHNIK.
In addition, I want to make this pen with a light. In the original for the E30, such handles were only covered with leather. But I want to keep the wooden handle. That will be later.
Retrofit kit for manual transmission leather handle with illumination




Part No. 1, No. 3 - a complete set of retrofitting, no longer available for ordering.
Part No. 2 - leather manual transmission handle with M-TECHNIK illumination (25 11 2 231 551).
Part No. 4 - leather manual transmission handle with M-SPORT/5-GANG illumination (25 11 2 231 550).
Part No. 5 - wiring of the handle with illumination (61 10 2 230 890). I don't see the point of buying it, it's easier and cheaper to make it yourself. I have already installed it, and I wrote about it in the section on wiring the interior heater. It is connected there, parallel to the ashtray backlight lamp.


The connector is original.


So, the entire gearshift mechanism is ready for installation.

Then about the gimbal.

[The_Glory]

WOW! This engine looks like it came off from the factory line yesterday. Awesome job! Keep it up.

That enginebay looks like new!

Thanks, I really tried! )