E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

UPD:
A small addition about sun visors.
I talked to the owners of convertibles - and it seems that this visor is from a convertible - there was a transparent pocket in which was enclosed an instruction with a scheme for using the soft roof on a convertible. Photo from the Internet:


There was no such pocket on sedans. But, if it was already there, then I will try to restore it somehow. There will be a part of the cabriolet in the sedan! :)

[The_Glory]

Collection_113. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing, additional elements

Finally, everything is ready to install the front and rear glass! First, we install rubber seals.
Glazing, additional elements


Front


Posterior


Part No. 1 - windshield seal (51 31 1 913 887). For before restyling machines. I don't know what the differences are after restyling. I heard that there are gaskets with drainage holes in the lower corners. I don't have them. Perhaps this is the difference...
Part #2 - SCHWARZ decorative strip (51 31 1 968 445). Black "lock" of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. The basic configuration included chrome (51 31 1 884 402)
Part #3 - SCHWARZ cuff (51 31 1 906 604). Black overlay on the "lock" joint of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. In the basic configuration there was chrome CHROM (51 31 1 884 401)
Part No. 4 - rear window seal (51 31 1 913 888). For before restyling machines. I don't know what the differences are after restyling.
Detail No. 5 - upper decorative bar SCHWARZ (51 31 1 940 235). Black "lock" of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. The basic configuration included chrome (51 31 1 884 409)
Detail No. 6 - SCHWARZ lower decorative strip (51 31 1 940 275). Black "lock" of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. In the basic configuration there was chrome CHROM (51 31 1 884 410)
Part #7 - SCHWARZ cuff (51 31 1 940 279) - 2 pcs. Black corner cover on the "lock" joint of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. In the basic configuration there was chrome CHROM (51 31 1 884 408)

The seals are intact, in good condition, so I thoroughly washed them of dirt, cleaned of old sealant and treated with silicone. From the factory, they were installed on the lower face and upper corners on a non-hardening sealant covered with a thin film - so that the sealant does not stick to the sealant. This sealant and film are not listed in the ETK, so I replaced them with materials at hand - similar butyl rubber tape from the hardware store, and regular disposable thin bags! :)


Butylrubber tape 1x15 mm thick


Given that the seals and their "locks" are no longer new, I decided to "play it safe" - I glued the tape not only on the bottom and in the upper corners, but around the entire perimeter of the window. The tape turned out to be thinner than the factory tape, so I taped it in two layers. The first layer is along the rib and wrapped it on both sides of the rib. The second layer is on the outer surface of the rib. The non-hardening sealant of the tape is very sticky to the hands, so it is better to glue it with wet hands.


Then we cut the bag into narrow strips and glue them on top of the butyl rubber tape.


I took disposable bags, the thinnest that were in the store. One and a half bags were enough for both glasses :) A very thin film does not allow the sealant to stick, and at the same time does not interfere with the deformation of the sealant for good sealing. At the same time, the glass seal is easily removed, if necessary.

We put and align the seal.


done


The "lock", of course, will be installed after the glass is installed.

Similarly in front.
But there is one nuance - it is important not to seal the drainage holes in the lower corners of the windshield. It is in these places, due to the lack of drainage, that the body often rusts a lot.








Now I can install the glass.

[The_Glory]

Collection_114. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing (part 2)

I wrote about installing the door glass a long time ago, and now it's time to install the front and rear.
Glazing


Three types of glass were available for the E30:
- ordinary transparent
- heat-insulating green Gruen (marking G)
- heat-insulating brown Gold Bronze (marking B)
In addition, the windshield (#1) could still have a green sun protection strip in the upper part. The rear window (No. 5) is always heated.
My windshield was no longer original, worn and cracked. The back was brown tinted with film. So I decided to replace them both. So I now have a complete set of green glass.
Part No. 1 is a windshield with a green sun protection strip (51 31 1 884 397). I bought this new Pilkington glass (AB26233A).


Although some other codes are indicated on the label, it still fit.


Green glass with a green sun band. Removed the stickers, washed.


Part No. 5 - rear glass green (51 31 1 884 404). I was lucky - I bought an original green rear window from a friend, in good condition, without tinting and with a working heater.


Although, the heating does not work at all - the lower three threads are broken. At first, I wanted to try to repair them with special glue, but after the feedback of a teammate, I changed my mind. His place of repair began to heat up and glow red, like the spiral of an electric heater, and the glass broke! This prospect did not suit me, so I did not risk it, and left it as it is. Especially since these three lower threads are still covered by the rear head restraints and the third stop sign. The main thing is that the terminals are intact, I cleaned them.




I am installing glass for the first time, so I first wondered how to do it correctly. Many advised to put the glass together with the seal and "lock" in the assembly - the "folk" method, with a string, pulling it into the cabin. But they say that the seal often loses its shape and begins to leak water. Well, this is not our method! :)
I decided to install as the book says - first the seal, then the glass, then the "lock". Seals are already installed. We install glass in them. You need to do this with an assistant - one pushes the sealant out of the cabin with a plastic spatula, the other aligns it on the glass. And so along the perimeter from bottom to top, in both directions.
The forehead is in place. Although, it was tight... I already thought that it wouldn't fit! :)


The back was already put with silicone - it went in much easier.


And now, the most "interesting" thing is the installation of "locks". I made something very remotely similar to the original tool for installing glass "locks" from a 3mm welding electrode. :)


But, either the "locks" are very old and hard, or the tool turned out to be not very correct, but nothing happened with it! :)
Installed with plastic spatulas for clips and a flat screwdriver. There is a two-part "lock" on the back glass. The lower castle is straight - he started with it, as with the simplest one.
Now, from my own experience, I will say - first you need to insert the "lock" into the seal from the side of the glass, and then use a spatula to insert it from the side of the body. On the corners, on the contrary, and with silicone. First the lower "lock", then the corner pads, then the upper "lock". In principle, everything is simple, but it took me several hours...
Finally, the rear window is installed!


Corner pads must be installed very carefully so as not to bend them.


The upper corners are a little more difficult than the straight sections, but with silicone they have become fine.


Original glass SPLINTEX Green, E6 - Belgium. By the way, the country code on the rear window happened to coincide with the code on the door glass - a bit of luck too! ;)


On the windshield, for some reason, the gap in the seal was a little smaller than on the back, especially in the upper corners. It was a little harder here, but slowly, with silicone, everything also went in! It started from the bottom of the center to the left and in a circle. It also took two hours...
The windshield is installed!


The "lock" was a little short, so there was a hole that was not covered by the overlay. I have already ordered another such overlay - I will install it when it arrives. I think that it is not critical.


The upper corners, although tight, have become even better than before! :)


Pilkington Green, E1 - Germany. Here, the country code did not match a bit... well, that's it. ;)


Finally, the interior is completely closed and will not get dusty, which is a lot in my garage, due to the lack of a normal floor... I can also put seats.
There is already something like a car behind! :)


Then again about the hatch.

UPD:

[Northern]

I have only looked casually at window install/removal, but that tape method is new for me! The logic behind it makes sense to me.

Car is looking great.

[The_Glory]

I have only looked casually at window install/removal, but that tape method is new for me! The logic behind it makes sense to me.

Car is looking great.

So this is not a new, but a factory method. But at the factory, such a tape with a film was glued to the lower part of the glass. At least that was the tape on my car. Also, a similar tape was under the factory original glass on several cars of teammates.

Thank you.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_115. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Fairing

So, back to the hatch to finish it off.
A wind shield or fairing was provided for the hatch. Until September 1985, in the form of a Plexiglas shield, and after September 1985 - in the form of a mechanical shield that opened together with the hatch mechanism.
Fairing


The plexiglass fairing was available as a separate retrofit kit in the appropriate ETK section:
Wind deflector retrofit kit


In addition to the original shield, an aftermarket shield from the manufacturer Clim Air was also available. At first, I had it installed. Then I bought a genuine BMW fender. Now I have two of them.



Part No. 1 is a hatch repair kit with a manual drive (54 12 9 056 596) and with an electric drive (54 12 9 056 597). No longer available to order.
Part No. 2 (No. 1) is a wind deflector retrofit kit (82 11 9 401 098). No longer available to order. Although, individual mounting details are still available.
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (72 60 1 857 053)
Part No. 4 - screw (72 60 1 852 660) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bracket (72 60 1 852 659) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - plastic nut (72 60 1 852 661) - 2 pcs.


Detail No. 7 (No. 8...No. 13) is a mechanical shield that opens together with the hatch mechanism. It was installed instead of the front pressure bar, together with the hatch mechanism. For this, special metal brackets are provided on the body in the niche of the hatch. Machines manufactured before September 1985 do not have these brackets, therefore, without welding, such a shield cannot be installed.
Accordingly, I have a plexiglass shield installed - it has an even more "old school" look! ;)
First, it was necessary to bring the shields into proper shape - to polish them.
Started with the original BMW shield.




Polished by hand, with sandpaper 1000, 1500, 2500 with water, then polished twice.


Result:




The eclipse is not very strong, although it is noticeable at the edge that it has "burnt out" in the sun over the years.


The same with the Clim Air shield.




Result:




On this shield, the eclipse is stronger, or it has "burned out" less in the sun over the years.


Shields are slightly different in size and shape. The original BMW is slightly wider and has front corners with a smaller radius of rounding. The attachment is the same and fits both shields.
I previously had a Clim Air shield installed.




Now I decided to install the original BMW shield.
In the front corners of the hatch niche, there are special gaps for installing shield brackets in them. They are simply inserted tightly with their hooks.




We install a shield with a seal on the roof, align it and fasten it to the brackets with screws and plastic nuts. All.


View from the salon:


Appearance:










This completes the installation of the hatch.

But in ETK, there is one more hatch division left:
Manual control hatch cover


Although, according to the VIN code, my car had a sunroof with a manual drive, but I got it with an electric sunroof. Therefore, I will not write anything about the manual hatch, because I have never used it, and I don't really know anything about it... I only know that almost everyone has a broken handle :)

Now I will finish assembling the interior. Next time I will write about a very rare item! ;)

[Mazi!]

there is a lot of information in this thread that has been very helpful!.

looking forward to see more updates :)

[The_Glory]

there is a lot of information in this thread that has been very helpful!.

looking forward to see more updates :)

Thank you. If I have time to finish, there will be updates today ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_116. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Sunscreen curtain of the rear door window

I return to the interior assembly.
The rear doors are fully assembled, so you can install sun blinds on them.
This is probably the rarest original E30 option available.
Retrofitting, accessories

So,
Rear Door Window Sun Shade




Part No. 1 - a kit for retrofitting the rear door window sunshade (51 16 1 942 230). All four curtains come under the same number, so it is not possible to order them separately. Although, the whole set is also not available for order for a long time.


Part #2 - hook (51 16 1 942 910) - 4 pcs. To fix the curtain of the opening window.
Part No. 3 - Velcro (51 16 1 942 912) - 2 pcs. For fixing the curtain of the blind part of the window.
Detail #4 - door lock button. The number in ETK is not indicated for some reason. It has a higher height compared to a standard button.
The ETK also does not specify rubber pads on the joints of the curtains.


Almost 10 years ago, I was lucky enough to find and buy this kit new.


The kit included glue for the rubber pads, but it already dried :) There was also the original EBA installation instructions.


The design and installation of curtains is very simple, even a little "artisan" :) They are simply clamped tightly under the glass seals, and glued with double-sided tape. Not a very reliable design, so you need to use them very carefully! Despite this, one of my blinds still broke. In the summer, in the sun, the scotch tape that holds the velcro of the curtains will peel off, and it will twist under the action of the spring. Once, her axle came off the spring. I had to repair it and use it even more carefully! :)


Ten years ago, I described the process of installing these curtains in great detail, but I will briefly repeat it again.
First, we insert the hook on the front end of the curtain under the glass seal.


Then we lower the curtain down and put its "tab" under the seal of the window frame.


We push the "tab" on the back end of the curtain under the blind glass seal.


We press the curtain to the door panel so that the tape sticks to the front part. We twist the elongated button of the door lock.




We fasten the hooks above the curtain loops, under the glass seal.


The horizontal blind is installed.




We insert the axis of the vertical curtain into the seat on the horizontal curtain.


The upper part is clamped under the seal with two hooks on both sides of the window frame.






The vertical blind is installed.


We stick rubber pads on the joint and on the upper end. Instead of glue, I used double-sided tape. In case you need to remove them. In the lower corner of the blind glass, we stick a velcro on double-sided tape.


Curtains are installed.










Interior photos will come a little later when the rear seat is installed, but for now here are my old photos.






P.S.
Just for information.
Only one horizontal curtain was installed on the touring door. Photo from the Internet:


I have already written about the rear shelf with a sun shade. But there was another overhead curtain for a sedan - on the rear window. It was attached by a similar method to the grids of the standard rear shelf.
Sunshield


Part No. 1 - a kit for retrofitting the sun blind (82 12 9 406 983). No longer available to order.
Part #2 - not used.
Part #3 - hook (82 12 9 413 176). Metal hook for attaching the overhead rear sun shade to the shelf bars. Photo from the Internet:




Part #4 - hook (82 12 9 413 178). Screws on the curtain.
Part No. 5 - hook (82 12 9 413 177). Screwed to the body.


Item No. 6 is not used.

I finished with the curtains, now I'm putting the back seat.

[The_Glory]

Collection_117. ETK_52_Seats. Rear seat.

Seats

In the cabin, everything is ready for installing the rear seats.
A little general information about them.
The Touring, Cabriolet, and M3 had rear seats of a different design.
In the Touring, it could be folded to increase the volume of the trunk. Therefore, the back consisted of four parts.
In the cabriolet, the rear seat is narrower and was a two-seater.
In the M3, the rear seat was two-seater, and had additional lateral support in the center.
I will write about sedans in more detail, in the form of an FAQ:
In 2-door and 4-door sedans, the rear seats are structurally different, depending on the year of production, but, in principle, they are interchangeable, although there are some nuances.
The rear seat cushion before 83 had an additional fastening with two bolts to the body.
The pillow for the 2-door sedan has straight front corners, and on the pillow for the 4-door sedan, they are rounded, for convenience when boarding through the rear door. Structurally, they are interchangeable, but if you put a pillow from a 2-door sedan to a 4-door, the front corners will interfere with the comfortable seating of rear passengers. If you put it the other way around, then there will be a large gap between the side of the 2-door body and the seat in the front part.
The cushion and backrest of the rear seat before 85 are on a spring frame, and after 85 are on paralon. They also have a "mirror" location of fasteners for seat belt locks.
Backrests for 2-door and 4-door sedans are the same.
The back can be plain or with an armrest. The armrest cannot be installed on a regular backrest.
The back with an armrest can only be on a spring frame.
Rear headrests can be installed on any backrest.
Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Rear seat heating was not available.
The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars.

So, now about my specific back seat. Initially, a seat on a spring frame was installed, which corresponded to the 84 year of production of the car. But then I completely replaced all the seats with the top kit from the '89 car - front sport seats and rear seat with armrest and headrests. Changed them in black and installed heating on all seats.

Rear seat spring frame / base


As I said above, depending on the year of production, the engine, the type of trim and the configuration of the car, the seats have a lot of ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to specify them.
Detail No. 1, 3 - a spring frame, or a paralon pillow. I have a paralon pillow.


The pillow is additionally heated.


Detail No. 2, 4 - a spring frame, or a paralon back. I have a back with an armrest - it is always on a spring frame. It does not exist on Paralon.


Back heating is additionally installed.


1989 year


Part No. 5 - bolt M6X20-Z3-2 (07 11 9 915 032) - 2 pcs. Additional fastening of the pillow to the body. Only for cars up to 83 years. Not used in this case.
Part No. 6 - SCHWARZ protective cap (52 20 1 844 402) - 2 pcs. Black plastic bolt cover. Only for cars up to 83 years. Not used in this case.
Part No. 7 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07119916965) - 2 pcs. Lower fastening of the back.
Part No. 8 - fastening of the seat belt lock (52 20 1 941 332)
Part No. 9 - fastening of the seat belt lock (52 20 1 941 338)

Installation of the rear seat is very simple. First, we put the back with its staples on the hooks on the body, and fasten the lower fastening with self-tapping screws (#7).


By the way, there is a hole on the plastic threshold cover. I thought that the pad is fixed together with the back with one self-tapping screw. But the holes do not match - it can be seen in the photo. I don't have another hole for the overlay. It is not clear... maybe it also depends on the year of production of the car? Does anyone have a pad bolted to the body at this point?

Insert the belt locks into the fasteners. Pull the straps over the back. We connect the connectors of "custom" heating.


We insert the pillow under the back and fasten its front brackets to the body brackets.


The rear seat is installed.

Seat Cover


Item No. 1 - fabric pillow cover
Detail No. 2 - fabric back covering
Detail #3 - not specified in ETK. It could be the trim clips, but I'm not sure about that...

As I said above, depending on the year of production, engine, and configuration of the car, the seats have many upholstery options with different ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to specify them.
Fabric, artificial leather, and genuine leather upholstery were available. The main colors are black, blue, green, brown, beige, gray, red. Before restyling, and after restyling, these colors had different shades and textures. The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars. There were also special skins for exclusive and individual configurations - M-Technic, Edition and others. On all E30s, the skin has longitudinal seams, except for convertibles, where the seams are transverse.
According to the VIN code, my car had PINIENGRUEN green fabric upholstery (0149) - for cars with 4-cylinder engines (316). But I bought a car with a different interior. The door panels were 0211 ANTHRAZIT and the seats were re-stitched in a similar fabric. After replacing all the seats, I searched for the 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric that was available from 85 for the 6 cylinder engine - just what I needed for my current kit! I still found it and bought it, thanks to a friend.


But in fact, the color was not black, but brown... alas...


At that time, I could not find a black "crow's foot", so I decided to simply sew the seats in black, with transverse seams, like on convertibles. It also turned out very well. But the idea of making the entire interior in black "houndstooth" doesn't leave me... :) Yes, such a fabric is now on sale... I already have a back rest and four headrests in the original 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric. Someday, maybe, I will have the whole salon "crow's foot" 0211 ANTHRAZIT. Or blue "crow's foot" 0212 PACIFIC - door trims are also already available ;)

The photo shows M TECHNIC decorative overlays (52 20 1 927 590) on the back.

For the E30 rear seats, they were only available for convertibles and the M3. But I also installed them - the interior looks much better with them! ;) We pierce the skin with them, and bend their spokes inside. One nuance - although I ordered them new, the color of the stickers on the driver's seat quickly began to fade... Therefore, I "laminated" them with a transparent adhesive film.

Armrest




Detail #1 - fabric armrest
I also wrote about the armrest above - it can only be in a set with a special back on a spring frame. The upholstery, of course, matches the upholstery of the seats. It has a special bracket for fixation on the back frame.


Assembly / disassembly is very simple and fast. We insert the bracket into the slots in the frame and snap it onto the brackets of the frame.


The cover for transporting skis is closed with a lining that is fixed on top with a "velcro" fastener. To use the cover, the armrest is just as easily and quickly removed.


The armrest is installed.


Composite


Rear headrests




Detail #1 - fabric headrest
I repeat - the rear headrests can be installed on any backrest. Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Part No. 2 (No. 3...No. 8) - a set of additional elements of the rear headrest (52 20 9 058 393).




This kit is installed on the back.


It is assembled and screwed to the back with two bolts.


We make holes in the paneling and insert plastic inserts for guiding headrests.


The headrests are simply inserted into the holes. Can be adjusted in height and inclination.


Rear Seat Parts




Detail #1 - a pillow
Detail #2 - back
Part #3 - ANTHRAZIT seat belt lock attachment (52 20 1 941 332). Black plastic fastener for the seat belt buckle.
Part No. 4 - ANTHRAZIT seat belt lock attachment (52 20 1 941 338). Black plastic fastener for the seat belt buckle.

Until 85, the middle seat belt was installed on the left, and its lock was on the right. After 1985, their location was changed, on the contrary - the middle seat belt was installed on the right, and its lock on the left. Accordingly, the fasteners for locks in the backrests before 85 and after 85 are also "mirror". In order to match my pre-85 belts with the post-85 back and shelf, I had to swap the middle belt body mount and its buckle. And everything fell into place! ;)


So, the rear seat in the top configuration is installed.
Interior view with curtains (due to curtains and poor lighting, photo quality is poor).




Now, in a completely black salon, it became dark and scary! )))


Later, outside, in sunny weather, there will be better photos! :)

Next, I will install the torpedo, and then the front seats. This is all that is left of the cabin.

[The_Glory]

Collection_118. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Multiple startup aborts

I haven't written about wiring in a long time! :)

The last of the original additional options installed in the cabin:

Multiple Start Interruption




Part No. 1 - multiple start interruption (82 91 9 404 260). State anti-theft system.
Part No. 3 - the key of the lock for multiple start interruptions (82 92 9 402 596). Electronic key.
Part No. 4 - lock for multiple interruption of starting (82 92 9 402 605). Electronic lock.
Detail #2, 5...8 - are not used.

I have written before about my original security system with a magnetic key. Unlike it, this system not only warns of unauthorized entry into the car, but also prevents its theft by breaking several electrical power circuits. Together, these two systems are the "prototype" of more modern security and anti-theft systems.
So, I found the original EBA manual, translated it, de-foamed it and figured out the connection. In principle, everything is easier than it seemed at first! ;) In the instructions, German engineers call after installing the system to destroy all pinouts and remove number tags from all connectors to make the task as difficult as possible for potential thieves! :) For this, they even made ALL the wires black! :) The locations of the ECU and the lock according to the instructions are also arbitrary, at the discretion of the owner. Well, I won't share this "terrible" secret, but if someone really needs it, please contact me! ;)

I prepared the standard wiring for connecting the immobilizer back when it was hanging in my garage on the wall - so I just connect the corresponding connectors in "test" mode to make sure that the system works.


The red diode in the lock flashes - this is already a sign that the system is working.


Press the electronic key fob tightly to the lock - the red diode on the key lights up, and at the same time it goes off on the lock - disarmed. Working!


So, the wiring can now be installed on the car.
I decided to place the lock in the cover of the left button above the radio - closer to the ignition switch. There were several types of plugs - with a hole for diodes of various standard alarms. The hole fit perfectly.


Untangled the wires, wound them in the form of a harness of the required length.


I connected and laid the wiring in the cabin and under the hood, "hid" the ECU somewhere under the torpedo - as recommended by German engineers! ;)
The immobilizer is installed.
Next, I lay the wiring of the torpedo, and you can install the torpedo and finish assembling the interior.

P.S.
I wonder if it is possible to order a duplicate electronic key..? And how is it coded? Because I only have one and its case is a little cracked.

[The_Glory]

Collection_119. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 5)

So, the wiring of all the electrical options I currently have in the cabin is installed. Only the wiring of the torpedo remains to be installed.

Jute wires (part 5)




Part #2 - jute wires of the instrument panel (61 11 1 380 476)

1 - connector C103, for connecting the harness to the main wiring. Pinout:

2 - connector of the left repeater of the turn indicator in the wing

3 - light switch connector


4 - front and rear fog lamp button connector
5 - backlight lamp connector

6 - connector of an electronic or hand clock
7 - connector for the button of the button of the backlight of the box for small things
8 - socket for the lamp shade of the box for small things
9 - connector for charging a rechargeable flashlight

10 - connector of the right repeater of the turn indicator in the wing
11 - connector to the Motronic ECU (signal to the tachometer and econometer)

12 - rear window heating button connector (an additional wire for button illumination is added, similar to cars for the USA, and a blue connector for additional button illumination)
13 - emergency stop signal button connector


I made such a "custom" mount for the C103 connector, but it does not hold very well.


We connect the harness to it, and lay out its connectors.


Before laying and fixing all the harnesses, I remembered that I had only one empty G pin left in the C302 accessory connector. And I thought - why not connect to it the "old school" anti-radar that I had lying around for a long time garages? :)


There isn't much use for it now, but it's a "cool" thing from those times :) Yes, there is a "trace" from its attachment on the torpedo, which will now be covered by it ;). So, I wired it to pin G and connected it. :) There was also a corresponding pin - I left it just in case ;)


Now I have C302 fully engaged - FULL! ;)


After installing the immobilizer, the last hole for wiring in the rubber insert of the motor shield was also used - also FULL! ;)


Well, here is such a "garland" of end caps of the driver's door for all additional options - also FULL! ;)


Finally, ALL the wiring is laid in the cabin, now it just needs to be carefully laid and secured under the torpedo. An on-board computer and alarm ECU are installed.


Part of the harness is fixed with special clamps on the steering column bracket. Others will be attached to the torpedo.


Next, about the installation of the torpedo and, in parallel, about fixing the wiring under it.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_120. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Switch on the steering column.

The wiring is completed, now I will write briefly about the switches and buttons.
First, about the switches on the steering column. There are two of them in the basic configuration. On the left, there is a switch for turn signals and headlights. On the right, there is a wiper switch. For each of them, an additional option is provided in the form of a button on the end of the switch. On the left is a button for switching the indicators of the on-board computer. On the right is a button for turning on the intensive cleaning of the windshield.
An additional option is the third switch installed below on the right - the cruise control switch. I already wrote about this in the corresponding section, so here I will write only about the switch itself.
In the presence of an airbag, all switches on the steering column have a slightly different design of their levers.

Steering column switch




Part No. 1 - windshield wiper switch with an intensive windshield cleaning system (61 31 1 372 583)
Part #2 - turn signal and headlight switch and on-board computer (61 31 1 375 186)
Part #3 - screw M5X12 (07 11 9 906 816) - 4 pcs.

Part #4 - switch for fog lights and rear fog lights (61 31 1 368 895). In the basic configuration, this button is "single" (#5), - only for rear fog lights. If there is an additional option of front fog lights, a "double" button (#4) is installed.

Part #6 - lighting switch (61 31 1 376 001). Switches before restyling and after restyling have different connectors. There were other switches for the Scandinavian countries, with the "daytime running lights" mode. An additional K9 relay was also installed there, which automatically turns off the main beam when the fog lights are turned on. I already wrote about this earlier in the section on relays.
Part No. 7 - button (61 31 1 369 277). Switch handle.
Part No. 8 - switch cover (62 11 1 370 655). In my case, this pad also has an optional original wooden pad. I will write about this option separately.

Item No. 9 - the light switch of the drawer for small things. (61 31 1 386 316).

"Top" set of switches:


Connectors for the switch of turn indicators and headlights, and on-board computer:
1 - connector for connecting to the main wiring
2 - connector for connecting to the on-board computer wiring
3 - sound signal connector
4 - turn signal relay connector
5 - ground terminal
I have a switch for the US market, so it is missing the "parking" marker light connector. Unfortunately, this option was not available in the US, although it is quite useful. In it, the switch has additional "extreme" positions after turning on the turn signal, in which only one front and one rear position light bulb is turned on, on the corresponding side of the car. At the same time, the illumination of the number plate and the illumination in the cabin do not turn on. This significantly saves the battery charge during long-term parking on the side of the road. If I find it, I will definitely replace this switch with a "European" one.

Connectors of the wiper switch with the system of intensive cleaning of the windshield:
6 - connector for connecting to the main wiring
7 - ground terminal
Compared to the basic one, this switch has two additional wires going to the TS and PS contacts of the K10 wiper relay.

Cruise control switch connectors:
8 - connector for connecting to the cruise control wiring

The switches are screwed to the steering column. Their "mass" terminals are also screwed there. We connect all connectors.


The connectors of all switches are fixed with each other, and are latched onto the connector of the ignition lock fixed on the steering column. The turn signal relay is also fixed on the steering column.


By the way, in the photo you can see the white connector of the "parking" side lights that is not used. It will be necessary to use it.
Now you can install the plastic cover of the steering column. I already wrote about him in the corresponding section.


Not all the icons on the switches are well preserved, so later I will try to somehow restore them - with engraving or stickers... we'll see.

I almost forgot - we install the decorative ring of the ignition lock in the casing.


A trifle, but the look is much better with it! ;)


Then about the buttons.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_121. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Switch

We are preparing all the buttons for installation.

Switch




Part #1 - emergency alarm switch (61 31 1 367 340). The button in the basic configuration has a backlight. When activated, it starts to glow more brightly.
Part #2 - rear window heating switch (61 31 1 376 036). Button in the basic configuration. Earlier buttons are green, later ones are yellow. There are no lights. It starts to glow when activated.

Part No. 3 - air conditioner switch (61 31 1 372 051). Optional button. The air conditioner button is blue, the recirculation button is yellow. There are no lights. It starts to glow when activated.
Detail #4 - air conditioner switch. Not used for E30. The air conditioner button is blue. There is no backlight. It starts to glow when activated.
Part No. 5 - fan switch (61 31 1 381 201). Heater fan speed mode switch. The earlier ones have three speeds, the later four.
Part No. 6 - fastening of the fan switch (64 11 8 362 900)
The icons on the button will need to be restored.

Part No. 7 - automatic fuse (61 31 1 370 724). After restyling, it has a different body shape (61 31 1 369 375). Optional button. There is no backlight at all. Turns off power to all power windows manually or automatically when overloaded.

Part No. 8 - rear power window switch (61 31 1 385 796). Optional button. There is no backlight at all. Turns off power to the rear power window buttons located on the doors.
Part No. 9 - power window switch without backlight (61 31 1 367 373) or with backlight (61 31 1 377 905) - 6 pcs. It is also used for an electric sunroof - 1 pc. Optional button. The backlight works constantly when the ignition is on.

Left with backlight, right without backlight:

In the photo on the right is the rear electric curtain button for E32/E34. I'm not sure if it was used for the E30 - the EBA doesn't say that. It might have used the regular window button (#9), but I like the electric shutter button better.
Part No. 10 - cigarette lighter socket (61 34 1 367 690)
Part No. 11 - glow spiral (61 34 8 648 111)
Part No. 12 - cigarette lighter insert (61 34 1 367 689). With backlight.
Part No. 13 - lamp 12V 1.2W (63 21 7 167 000) - 1 pc. Cigarette lighter and ashtray lighting.


Part No. 14, No. 15 - automatic transmission mode switch with electronic control. Not used in this case.

In the photo there are also optional seat heating buttons. I already wrote about this before, so here it is only about the buttons.

Earlier heated seat buttons have a different shape and a green backlight when activated. In the photo above, there are later buttons, they do not have backlight. When activated, they start to light up.
I used the E32/E34 buttons to heat the rear seats. They are similar in appearance in the photo below, but structurally different. They have backlight. When activated, they begin to glow brighter.

A little about the preparation of buttons. For the US market, the rear window heating button is backlit, by analogy with the hazard warning button. I have two buttons - early green (right) and late yellow (left).


I noticed that the late yellow buttons have another unused pin (1) and some kind of diode...






But there is no such contact in the wiring.


Without thinking long, I added the wire from the backlight! :)


But the "trick" failed! :) The backlight does not work. Then I carefully looked at the ETM diagram and realized that for the US there is a completely different pinout and a different button.


So I left it as it was.

A nuance on the automatic fuse of electric windows. Before restyling, this button was installed above the radio, near the emergency alarm button. After restyling, it was moved to the torpedo console, to all other buttons of electric windows. In my opinion, it is more logical and convenient. Accordingly, these buttons have different body frames. Before the restyling, the button has a thin flat frame (right), and after the restyling, a thick rounded frame (left), like other power window buttons.


And in conclusion, a few more words about the button backlight lamps. I needed to replace several burned out bulbs. In the buttons of the electric windows, they are simply inserted into the cartridge, and in the button of the electric blinds, they are soldered.


By the way, I disassembled all the buttons of the electric windows and cleaned their contacts - the electric windows started to work much better.

It turned out that the new lamps shine much brighter and have a white color of light. Therefore, I used the experience of my friend - I painted the lamps with a special colored varnish - "tsaponlak". It comes in different colors. I bought red, yellow and green.


So, I did it on the recommendation of my friend - dip the lamp in yellow varnish five times, drying each time. Then we dip it once in red varnish.


We get an amber color similar to the factory backlight. In the photo on the left, the lamp after five layers of yellow varnish, and the finished result after one layer of red varnish on the button on the right.


The color of the light has become amber, but they still shine noticeably brighter..... well, that's it... I'll show you after installation! ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_122. ETK_51_Body equipment. Trinket box

Well, now everything seems to be finished in the salon with electricity.
Let's return to the section
Body equipment

First, a box for small things.
Glove Box




Part #1 - ANTHRAZIT small box (51 16 1 884 243). It is standard black, but the Edition can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO.
Part #2 - loop (51 16 1 916 022)
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X16 (07 11 9 916 945) - 3 pcs. For fastening the hinge to the box.
Part No. 4 - insert plate (51 16 1 848 715) - 3 pcs. For fastening the hinge to the box.

Item No. 5 is not used.
Part No. 6 - support bracket (51 16 1 913 891)
Part No. 7 - hanger for a box (51 16 1 904 471) - 2 pcs. Flexible strap-limiter for opening the drawer.
Part No. 8 - pin (51 16 1 828 956) - 2 pcs. For fixing straps.

Part No. 9 - a set of locking mechanism (51 16 1 848 873). Basic drawer opening handle. Not used in this case.
Part No. 10 - a set of locking mechanism with code (51 16 1 853 004). Keyed drawer opening handle. Lock repair kit (51 16 9 061 387). I wrote about the repair of this lock in the section about locks.
Part No. 11 - a set of a locking mechanism with a key (51 16 1 853 002).
Part No. 12 - the upper part of the locking mechanism (51 16 1 849 472).
Part No. 13 - screw M5X12 (07 11 9 907 627) - 2 pcs. For attaching the handle to the drawer.
Part No. 14 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 0470 - 2 pcs. For attaching the handle to the box.

Part No. 15 - M6 nut with washer (07 14 7 134 319) - 3 pcs. For attaching the loop to the body.
Part No. 16 - bracket (51 16 1 913 890). Lock latch.
Part No. 17 - self-tapping screw B3.9X16MM (51 13 1 879 479) - 2 pcs. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the torpedo.
Part No. 18 - sheet nut ST6,3-1-ZN (07 12 9 925 727) - 1 pc. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the body.
Part No. 19 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07 11 9 916 966) - 1 pc. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the body.
Part #20...23 - not used.

In my case, there is an original wooden cover on the box.


I will write about it separately later.
The pad has a metal base with threaded bushings. Fastened with two M3 screws.


We fasten the handle with the lock, install the wooden overlay, fasten the hinge. And it is better not to install the straps right away - then I had to remove them again.


The box for small things in the "top" configuration is ready for installation.


But first you need to install a torpedo! ;)