E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Build_15. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 3)

We continue to assemble the rear suspension.
ETK_33_Rear Axle

The rear beam is installed, it remains to install the stabilizer and shock absorbers with springs.

Suspension strut parts rear



First you need to assemble the shock absorbers. Bilstein B6 sport shocks.



It's simple - we collect everything, as in the ETK picture (parts No. 8 and No. 9 are not used). We put a chipper on the stem, the lower large plate with the “bottom” up, the support with the paper gasket, the upper small plate with the “bottom” down, and tighten the new self-locking nut. Just like the front and rear shock absorbers, manufacturers highly recommend not holding anything on the stem and tightening it with a wrench. Therefore, we hold the stem with a key for 6 at its end, and tighten the nut with a key for 17. We get such a "sandwich".



Last time, when I collected shock absorbers for coilovers, I decided to put the upper plate on the contrary, "bottom" up - so it clamps the support more tightly and harder. This time I decided to put it like a book writes)
I put the duster last - it fits tightly on the bottom plate. But it seemed to me that it would be more convenient to immediately put it on the bottom plate, and put them together.
We put protective rubber caps on the top plate.
The lower bolts and washers were updated with yellow zinc, the upper nuts are new self-locking.
Shock absorbers are ready for installation.



Barrel spring kit



There's not much to write here.)
Springs are new, but not stock - Eibach Pro Kit E2003-140
Rear EW2003102HA -30 mm



rear stabilizer bar



The rear stabilizers on the E30 were of several types, and were not installed on all cars. I have a rear stabilizer with a diameter of 14.5 mm - the thickest of the factory ones. It was installed in the M-Technic sports suspension package, and on the pre-facelifted 325i it was in stock.
Touring had 13.5mm stubs
On 4-cylinder sedans 12.5 mm as an option.
On the 14.5 mm stub, rubber bands are available only in the original. I bought them new a few years ago and they are still like new.
Details No. 8, 9, 12 are not used.
All fasteners are of course updated with yellow zinc.



We start to put all this on the car.
We put on the plates the lower and upper rubber gaskets of the springs. They come in different thicknesses - I bought the original medium thickness ones that came with the sport package.
By the way, here's what pleasantly surprised me - most of the suspension rubber bands that I bought a few years ago, despite our roads, are in excellent condition! Toli this is due to the fact that I drive little and carefully, roofing felts due to the fact that then I took either the original or the Lemferder. In general, I am satisfied with the quality!
But back to assembly. Rear springs with -30 mm at the maximum lowered levers, easily steel without the use of ties.



Before putting shock absorbers, you need to install a stabilizer - so it will be much easier to put it in its place - between the boot floor and the differential. I screwed the lower mounting brackets to the levers even before installing the beam, but did not tighten them - they will need to be slightly adjusted in place to install the stub racks. We put on elastic bands, brackets, insert the brackets into the groove on the body, align the stub, and tighten it with bolts.



We put racks on the ends of the stub and fasten them to the lower brackets on the levers.



We adjust and align the brackets so that the stub rack moves without creases, and tighten the nuts. That's all with the stub.



Install shock absorbers. Before installation, some manufacturers recommend pumping them - compress and release the stem several times in a vertical position. Moreover, after pumping, they cannot be laid horizontally - otherwise, it will be necessary to pump again. Convinced of this on their front. Then it’s quite simple - we bait the lower bolt (do not forget to put the washer), insert the shock absorber into the mounting holes on the glass, jack up the lever, and twist two nuts from the trunk. Then tighten the bottom bolt. Amorths in place.




At the same time, I immediately installed the rear strut. In addition to increasing the rigidity of the body, the strut flanges also play the role of rear support amplifiers. Such washers were regularly installed on the E36, to distribute the load on the entire mounting plane of the support. On the E30, this will also not be superfluous.



Well, that's all! Rear axle installed.
The main thing is not to forget to still hold on to the nuts of the silent blocks of the levers, and change, tighten and lock the hub nuts! )
Along the way, in order not to climb twice, I also put a handbrake - this can be seen in the photo, but more on that next time;)

And finally put the wheels!
in limbo)





And now the long-awaited moment - a solemn descent to the ground! ))) Finally, she is not on "crutches", but on her wheels, and you can already roll her freely!





It seems like a trifle, but my mood has already improved - at least some progress! )) Today I rolled it out of the garage for the first time - I'm happy as an elephant! Almost the first trip! )))

[The_Glory]

[b]Build_14. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 2) [/ b]

We continue to assemble the rear walker.
ETK_33_Rear Axle

Final drive



There were some problems with the assembly of the differential - the original cover gasket costs a penny, but the delivery time was announced to me from a month ... (I ordered it, a month has already passed, but it is not there yet, and when it will be, it is not known). Therefore, I decided to cut out a home-made one, from special paper that had been in the stash since ancient times. The original gasket is also made of paper, by the way. I wanted to trace it along the contour, or make an imprint with the help of a lubricant - I remember my father did this in Soviet times in his LADA. But my brother suggested a good and simple way - to tap the contour with a hammer. I have never heard of such a method before - it sounds a little strange, but it works well. To do this, you need a small hammer and an adapter with a spherical tip. In my case, the pliers fit perfectly, at the end of the handle of which there was an ebb in the form of a ball. You can use a bearing ball. The technology is as follows - we apply a sheet of paper tightly to the lid and punch the bolt holes with a light blow with a ball. We fix the paper by inserting bolts into the holes. And so in a circle.



Then, lightly tap through the paper along the contour of the outer and inner edges of the lid. The paper breaks through, and we get a clear and precise contour of the gasket.



We cut through the places that are not punched with scissors, and we get a gasket that is no worse than the original one.



Now everything seems to be ready to assemble the differential.
Rear axle gear box cover/ imp. sensor



The silent block is new, the fasteners are all updated with yellow zinc.



I am missing item #11 - speed sensor connector cover. I have never seen anyone with her. Even in the photo of the new red 323i E30 (many have seen it on the Internet for sale), this cover is not. Yes, and it is not clear why it is there - in order to remove the connector, you will have to unscrew the speed sensor - some kind of nonsense. Maybe they stopped installing it from the factory later .... Although it is available for order. For the price of 65 Euro. I thought that I will continue to do without it) Another detail with an inadequate price;)

I did not dare to climb inside - I had no complaints about the gearbox, so I decided not to interfere with its work further)) Accordingly, the sections Flange Bearings /E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/rear_axle/drive_flange_suspension_gasket/]Diff.outlet flange bearings/gasket seal skip.





Although in the first section there is an interesting entry in the ETC:
Additionally
Warning! drive side flange and nut should not be replaced.
ETK doesn't even have their numbers. I wonder why? By the way, this flange with a nut was smeared with sealant ... well, okay - I didn’t really want to replace them)) I just painted it.



My differential is not simple, but [s]gold[/s] with differential lock! By the way, looking at the current prices for them - it's still gold! )))
Differential locking element rear axle gear



Well, here it is, the almighty lock! )



For me, this is a rather complicated mechanism, and I'm not sure that I could then assemble everything correctly - all these preloads, disks, plates ... Moreover, there is such an entry in the ETK:
Additionally
individual parts are no longer offered
Yes, they can still be found somewhere, and the locks are being repaired, but this is not a cheap pleasure. And even more so, if you do it just like that, without good reason, then this is not very reasonable. ) Therefore, I didn’t get there either. I just twisted the flanges, checked the gear ratio again - it corresponds to the tabular data for the 325i. What the tag on the gearbox says.



S - gearbox with lock
3.73 - its gear ratio
0632 is a part number that says that this gearbox was installed on the conveyor, and was not installed as a repair. On gearboxes that come as a spare part, the gear ratio is not indicated directly, but by the number of teeth on the gears, and there is also the letter A.
If someone does not know how to check the gear ratio - turn the wheel flange 1 turn and count the revolutions of the cardan flange (I have 3.73 turns) - this will be the gear ratio. For a more accurate calculation, you can make 10 turns of the wheel flange, then the difference will be more obvious at close numbers - 3.64 and 3.73 for example (I have 37.3 turns). In a gearbox with a block, both wheel flanges rotate in the same direction, and in a gearbox without a block, in different directions.

Before installation, it was necessary to press the silent block into the cover. And then, the second problem happened ... Often, the cover clip breaks .... I knew about this, and warned a friend about this, who pressed the silents for me. But it did not help. ) The lid still burst! I was very upset .... ((( Judging by the reviews, it makes no sense to weld it - the metal becomes brittle from heating, and it breaks next to the welding. I did not check this, and began to look for another cover. This is a very scarce part, respectively , and not cheap.But at least I was lucky here - the cover was quickly found, and not as expensive as possible.



On the second attempt, it was still possible to press the silent without casualties. But I had to tweak it a bit. He was a little bigger than he should be. By the way, Silent Topran, made in Germany - sort of German, but...
Now I have two lids) Maybe I’ll brew the first one later and there will be a spare one ...



And finally the differential is assembled.



Gasket just in case planted on the sealant.





Screwed the gearbox to the beam. The axle shafts were screwed onto the thread lock. Although they used to keep it that way, but I read that sometimes they are unscrewed - I decided to overdo it))
Rear beam assembly. Everything is ready - you can attach it to the body.



Immediately poured oil into the gearbox, according to the classics, for gearboxes with disc lock - Castrol 75W140. The wide gearbox includes 1.7 liters.



It is much more convenient to do this before installation than on the installed beam. Just as it is more convenient to assemble the rear suspension on the floor, and install it as a whole, than separately install the beam, levers, gearbox, etc. The only negative is the large weight of the entire assembly. The process was further complicated by the lack of an inspection hole ... Therefore, for the installation it was necessary to involve a brother and a godfather, and come up with a technology for installation in place) They dragged everything together with a wooden door under the car, put a jack in the center of the door, and together with it raised a beam holding along the edges . At the same time, the entire beam can be moved along the plane of the door - quite conveniently. 15-20 minutes and the rear beam is in place.





It remains to put the rear stabilizer and amortization. But my godfather and brother and I decided to celebrate the successful installation of the beam, we got carried away a little ...))) Therefore, the installation of shock absorbers and a stub will be next time)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_31. Bottom painting

In principle, initially I did not intend to completely paint the bottom in color - only arches and along the rapids. Actually, this is how it was painted during development, and then, when painting, it was blown in the same way, but a little more. It looked like this, and I was quite satisfied ...



But ... before applying the sealant, I carefully wrapped all the threaded studs on the body with masking tape, and screwed the bolts into the threaded holes - this can be seen in the photo. Everything would be fine, but the painter forgot to remove the adhesive tape, and so he painted everything with it ... well, that's it ... After removing the adhesive tape, all the studs remained light gray, in the ground. It was stupid to leave them like that, so we agreed that the painter would paint them for me. But, as practice has shown, it would take another month, and the car must be put on wheels. Then I didn’t want to paint with a pendant and everything that was cleaned and painted in blue dust. Therefore, I decided to tint the studs myself. I blew out zinc primer, then acrylic, then gray paint.



It seems like the norm .... it will do! ...) But the blue bottom with gray spots of different shades of sealant, zinc, primer and paint began to resemble an avatar leopard))) Looking at the beautiful chassis, I decided that the bottom should still be beautiful! ) I remembered that I had seen a "pencil" and a container with paint according to the code from a colleague in the ward. I went and ordered one for myself. They did it for me within 5 minutes. The color matched perfectly.
Individual 1991 - Pur Blau Metallic (253)



On the motor shield, the studs were carefully painted over with a pencil brush, and the bottom was blown out with one light layer of cylinders. Two were not enough, I ordered another one. It was not very convenient to do this while lying under the car, but it turned out beautifully! ;)













Now you can screw a beautiful rear suspension onto a beautiful bottom.
More on that in the next post.

P.S.
The place of welding on the steering column bracket was also tinted at the same time.


.

[The_Glory]

Build_13. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 1)

The front suspension and steering are assembled, - let's move on to the rear suspension.

ETK_33_Rear Axle

There were some problems with the differential, or rather with its cover, so more on that next time, but let's start with the section
Output Shaft
It is also a semi-axis, it is also a joint of equal angular velocities.



At first I did not plan to disassemble them, since I had no complaints about them. But looking at the very rusty ABS gear, I decided to take it apart, sand it down and paint it - maybe the ABS would suddenly stop bugging out) I changed the internal anthers a few years ago, so their covers were removed easily, but the outer covers were removed with difficulty - only after abundant dousing with grease and hard picking and so bent cover. By the way, it is not available for order at all and I have not found analogues - so you have to pick it carefully. There is still a sealing rubber ring under the cover - it is highly desirable not to tear it either, since it also does not appear in the ETC. In general, I dismantled, sanded, painted, fasteners updated with yellow zinc. I bought stainless steel band clamps.



Internal hinges



External hinges



When disassembling, I marked left / right and internal / external, so as not to confuse and assemble in the same way. Started assembly. First we put the clip on the gear, then we put them on the shaft and put the retaining ring. We insert the shaft with the gear into the body and begin to put the balls in ... but then something went wrong ...) I stuffed the sixth ball with great difficulty ... after which the hinge became a stake in a vertical position and did not move anywhere else at all! ) It turned out that you need to move not only the balls in the hinge, but also the balls in the head! ))) On the second attempt, everything worked out - the hinge began to work normally. In the photo on the right - NOT a correctly assembled hinge, on the left - a correctly assembled hinge. It can be seen that one works, and the second is jammed.



And the bottom line is that at first glance, it seems logical to set the grooves for the balls on the body and the internal gear exactly opposite each other so that the balls fit there. But due to the inclination of these grooves, this way the hinge is bluntly wedged and cannot work. It is necessary to shift the grooves by one, then they do not coincide, but for that, when the axis is tilted, they coincide and the ball fits there. And so 6 times! )
The photo shows the difference in the location of the grooves. Left is right.



Maybe I’m writing obvious things, but I’ve read a lot of reports on the bulkhead of hinges, and nowhere they write about this nuance with the displacement of the grooves ... Although, judging by the reviews, they are often assembled incorrectly, and then disassembled / assembled, until The nth build time will accidentally fail correctly! ))
Let's continue - we fill the grease, put on the boot. Just in case, for sealant. It didn’t work out for me to roll the covers on deafly, so I pulled them together with temporary bolts.



Then we put on the outer boot and its cover, and collect the balls in the same way as on the inner hinge. We lubricate. Do not forget to put a rubber ring under the cover. External covers, thanks to the groove, can be well rolled up. We tighten the clamps on the anthers. The hinges work and the axle shafts are ready for installation.



Next we move on to the beam and levers.
Rear axle beam/wheel suspension



My beam was with a welded ear, so I bought a whole one. The levers are not in perfect condition - I have already changed spring plates on them before, but for that they are even. I bought the lower jet rods at a disassembly, as mine rotted into dust. Well, all this brought to a beautiful view. Beam and arm silent blocks - SWAG.



Left-hand side



Right side



Everything is symmetrical, the same, including the ABS sensors.



By the way, I also bought the sensors fresh - again in the hope that glitches in the ABS will disappear. They even have white markings for the location of the clips. The clips are all in place - two (#17) for each lever, and one bracket (#16) on each side per beam. I didn't have one so I bought a new one.

Next section
[url=http://en.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/rear_axle/side_shaft_wheel_bearings]Rear Axle/Wheel Bearing[ /url]



Everything is simple here - the hubs were sanded and painted, everything else is new. Lock washers for nuts are original. FAG bearings - circlips and nuts included. Therefore, old rings and nuts updated with "yellow zinc" will not be useful.



Silent blocks, bearings and hubs were pressed in with a press. The silent blocks of the levers are pressed from the outer sides of the lever, and the bolts are inserted into them from the inside so that they can then be pulled out and the lever removed without removing the beams. Well, I picked it all up a little. I almost forgot to insert plugs into the levers - for some reason they are not in the ETK. By the way, it is important not to forget to fasten the brake disc shields before pressing the hub, but I will write about them separately later.



Here is the stub



All this is assembled.



I will tighten the nuts of the silent blocks of the levers and hubs after installing the beam on the car. The main thing is not to forget! ) ABS sensors will be installed along with the wiring.
We are waiting for the solution of problems with the differential one of these days and finally it will be on wheels! )

P.S.
Packets started to arrive.

[The_Glory]

Amazing build thread! I cannot wait for the finished product, E30 passion is alive!

Thanks.
Yes, many people liked this format of the assembly description ;)
I myself can't wait for the finished product :)

[will61]

Amazing build thread! I cannot wait for the finished product, E30 passion is alive!

[The_Glory]

B]Build_12. ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry (part 2) [/B]

We continue with the ETK section.
ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry

We skip the sections on the pump and hydraulics for now - we will return to them later - when the motor is already installed.
We also skip the sections on the steering column with an airbag - everything is different there, our own. For this reason, I will probably never decide to install this option...
Now let's move on to the section.
ex.



My steering column is still native, i.e. 1984, so it has some features. Firstly, the lower (No. 10) and upper (No. 11) bearings are different. The upper one is more "solid" - with a good body and protection from dirt. Although, it would seem more logical to put it the other way around - after all, the lower one is on the street, and water and dirt flies at it. Therefore, in my case it even rusted a little, but I managed to revive it.
Since 1985, the bearings are already the same - such as my lower one (No. 10) - simpler. After restyling, the upper bearing was already plastic. The beginning of the process of unification and cheapening)
Secondly, my column has a rubber o-ring (No. 12) on the shaft. After 1985 it was discontinued. Why it was there is not known ...)
1984 model steering shaft details updated with "yellow zinc":



Bottom part



The shaft appeared to be hollow. Below is a plug (No. 14) - I did not take it out. Although, at first, while the shaft was dirty, it seemed that something was stuck - I wanted to pick it out)



The upper part - you can see the difference in the bearings (in the photo I mixed up the washers - they are placed the other way around)



Parts General Forums and E30 Technical Forums are not used.
And it all goes into the steering column tube.



Next section
.



He's also a "cardan". For a rail with power steering, it is not the same as for a mechanical one. Crosses without backlash, the clutch is intact and not rigid - I left it as it is. One bolt was lost somewhere, so I replaced it with a similar one made of stainless steel. Item Forum is not used. Never met her...
As I was told, this casing was placed on right-hand drive cars to protect the clutch from the exhaust manifold.



Let's get back to the pipe.
But before you assemble the shaft into a pipe, you need to install the ignition lock housing on it.
.and start.



I cleaned the connectors of the contact group (No. 3). The body is fixed on the pipe with a disposable shear bolt (No. 5). I never had it there. It’s not really needed there, as for me, so I didn’t bother with ordering the original one, with a wait of a couple of months, but I did it myself) I just sharpened the edge of the thread on a regular bolt - the norms are fixed. Part #11 is for airbag only, parts #12-16 are not used. But I never had part number 6. I thought it was a black bezel around the core of the ignition lock, but no. This is a separate detail - a decorative ring. Ordered, when I arrive I will add a photo.



The ring (No. 6) arrived, but it turned out to be not plastic, but rubber.



We put the lock body on the pipe. We collect the shaft into the pipe - first the bottom. We put the bearing, boot, ring (groove down) and fix it with a retaining half ring (it is not broken - this is how it should be). Then the top in the sequence, as in the picture (in the photo I mixed up the washers). The upper retaining ring is convenient to snap into place with a high head, with a light blow. Don't forget to grease the bearings.
We snap the lock (by the way, it is removed in the first position of the key, when pressed with a needle through a special hole on the case), and the contact group, we fasten the sound signal contact. The steering shaft is assembled.



And now the steering column pipe
Steering column tube/fascia



The steering column is attached to the body with disposable shear bolts (No. 12). Why - I really did not understand ... It is very difficult to unscrew them. The welder did not bother and simply knocked the column out of the grooves in the body along with these bolts (more on the consequences below). I cut a slot on them, but they did not unscrew with a screwdriver. I tried to drill, but then I decided to cut off the hat with a grinder easier. The plastic bushings survived this normally. Bolts set the usual, the same size. The rest of the fasteners were updated with "yellow zinc"
Another "collective farm" is a gasket (No. 3). In the original, this is ordinary foam rubber 3-5 mm thick on self-adhesive. Available to order. Priced around $50. As for me, to put it mildly - bust! )) (There are also parts with inadequate prices in the ETC - I will write about them during assembly). And given the current situation with the timing of deliveries - generally a bad idea. In short, I cut it out of splenite, and glued it to the bracket with double-sided tape - no worse than the original. Even better - it will not absorb water and moisture, unlike the original foam rubber. Apparently, that is why the bottom of the pipe and the lower bearing were rusty for me. By the way, that's why the lower bolts were made of stainless steel.



The steering column is ready for installation. Plastic, of course, I will put later, when assembling the cabin. But it is placed before the installation of the torpedo - this is important. Otherwise, it won't fit.



We first fasten the bottom bracket, but do not tighten its clamp so that the column moves up and down - to install the cardan on the slots. We put the cardan, tighten its bolts.



Next, we attach the column from above to the body. Then tighten the bottom clamp. The column is installed.



And now about the consequences of the vandal removal of the column, by knocking it out of the grooves of the body bracket (I can’t find another explanation for this ....).



I found such a fucked up during installation .... (( The column now, of course, has a backlash .... you need to weld .... this is fucked up .... ((

The last section on steering is the most important! ))
Steering wheel



We do not consider sports wheels, M-techniques and a steering wheel with an airbag. Although, I have steering wheels in stock;)



But we're going to the base! Therefore, we put the stock original steering wheel.



True, it has already been altered a little, with an exclusive line, but nothing ... We clean and fasten the contact ring.



And install



Blue inserts on the sides of "eco-leather" are very cool in harmony with the color of the car! )

Now you can already steer! ))
(The steering wheel is temporary - for the assembly period;) )

More about the rear suspension assembly.

UPD:
The crack on the steering column bracket was successfully welded, despite my nerve cells spent on it))



The decorative ring of the ignition lock, which I wrote about above, has arrived. It was not plastic, but rubber.



In the photo above, I tried it on the castle - it fits)

[The_Glory]

Build_11. ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry (part 1)

Let's move on to the next section.
ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry

We skip the mechanical rail and rails with an airbag.
We look at the E30 rail with power steering.
Power Steering



I have a pre-styling E30 rail with power steering. You will not believe it, but it is alive - it does not flow, it does not knock. Therefore, I decided not to go inside it, so as not to make it worse)) I just brought out the external beauty.





Power steering pipe





Assembly assembly.



Tie Rods/Tie Rods



At first I wanted to leave the traction as well, but there were once comments on them when adjusting the toe, so I replaced them completely assembled with new ones.



The anthers are perfectly preserved, and I bought new band clamps. They are easier to tighten, but I had such ones before - they hold perfectly.
I know from my own experience that it is better to immediately add grease to new ball joints - they will live longer. In the case of "Febi" rods and tips, the same story - there was almost no lubrication in them.





He took off the anthers and added them without regret. When installing the rod, another jamb was discovered - the diameter of the rod nut and the new lock washers turned out to be the same, and there was simply nowhere to bend the washer!





As it turned out, these rods are unified with E46, where lock washers are not provided. They have grooves for air circulation between the anthers through the hollow E46 shaft.



It was in these grooves that I decided to lock the E30 lock washers.



This way - three points on each rod.





Here's a "life hack" ;)
Next, generously lubricate the rail and the hinge of the rods, put on the anthers, tighten the clamps, and the rail is ready for installation.







We attach the rail to the holes closest to the beam.



When installing a rail from newer bodies (E36, E46), it is sometimes attached to the far (front) holes. I don’t know how correct this is, but the E30 rail is placed on the nearest holes. This is exactly how I had both the mechanical rail and the E30 power steering rail.



We insert the fingers of the tips into the rack (having previously lubricated them) and tighten the nuts, holding the finger with a hexagon.



I put the convergence "by eye" - if only it could somehow roll straight. Then, after the entire assembly, you will need to set the "zero" on the steering wheel, and adjust the correct angles.
Then I will put the steering column - more on that next time.

[The_Glory]

Build_10. ETK_31_Front Axle

The ice has broken! ))
Finally, I started directly to the assembly! I will act according to a pre-approved plan;)
I repeat:
I don’t even want to plan on terms ... how will it go ...) But I will try to leave by the summer! )
I will build very slowly, carefully and accurately. I even came up with an entertainment for myself - an assembly as close as possible to the ETC;) I will focus mainly on the ETC for the 1985 325i 4-door sedan, but of course there will be exceptions. I do not promise full compliance with the ETC, due to the unavailability or inadequacy of prices for some parts)), but I will strive for this! ) But this does not mean that the whole machine will be assembled on new original parts. No. To my regret, I am not an oligarch, so I won’t be able to finance such an assembly. Anything that can be restored will be restored to "like new" condition. What works well will be restored only externally. Well, what is to be replaced will be replaced with new good analogues, or with the original, if it is available and the price is adequate. Naturally, everything used and old, down to nuts and screws, will be washed, cleaned, painted, galvanized, or changed to a new and beautiful one. All threaded connections will be lubricated during assembly, and all rubber bands will be treated with silicone grease. To paraphrase a classic - Everything should be fine in the car: the body, the engine, the suspension, and the interior! ))
So we start! )
I will try to describe the assembly as detailed as possible, although many people already know this, but suddenly it will be useful to someone ...

According to the plan, we start with the ETK section
ETK_31_Front Axle

Front axle beam_wishbone



This is how it looks live:



Ball joints did not disturb anything - left the old ones. The original all-filled M3 silents, it seems, are generally eternal, so I didn’t take them off either. Fasteners are all according to ETK, updated with "yellow zinc".

Front Stabilizer



It's the same here.



Shock absorber strut front_shock absorber



Wheel Bearings





There are deviations from the ETK) "Collective farm" chippers and anthers from Opel - a necessary measure for low springs. MTS-Techniks shock absorbers with a short stem.

ABS sensors are different on the left and right side, they differ in wire length. The right one is longer.
There are no complaints about the hubs, so I did not remove them, but simply painted them.

spring_ext.el.





Thrust bearings live, just cleaned, painted and replaced the grease. The lower rubber bands are new, they were bought last time, but then they were not useful for coilovers. Now here come in handy. The nuts are new, I forgot to put them in.

Front coil spring





Springs not according to ETK - Eibach Pro Kit -30/40mm

Now let's put it all together. It is better to immediately fasten the stabilizer to the beam - it is much more convenient than doing it already on the installed beam.



We also immediately fasten the stabilizer brackets to the levers. But we don’t tighten it - they will still need to be installed in the correct position in place so that the stub rack works correctly on its hinges.



Solemn moment! ) The first part installed on the body!




We fasten the levers, having previously lubricated the ball fingers - it will be much easier to remove them next time. We put the protective shield of the right silent block.



Now you can correctly set the brackets of the stabilizer struts and tighten their fasteners.





Let's move on to the stands. Unfortunately, the restored beautiful and solid original shock nuts did not fit the new shock absorbers. The diameter of the shock absorber is slightly larger, and the nut will not fit on it. I had to put those that were complete with amortization.



Pour 30-50 grams of engine oil into the rack - for better heat dissipation from shock absorbers. We insert shock absorbers, remove excess leaked oil and tighten the nut.



Now the springs. We tighten the spring with ties. By the way, I bought them inexpensively and of excellent quality. And it seemed to me to work with such ties much more convenient than ties with double hooks. Although, I heard the opposite ... We evenly tighten the spring until the upper plate is free in its place on the stem. Further, as in the picture - a thick washer, anther, a support bearing, a washer, a new self-locking nut.
All instructions for shock absorbers say that you can not tighten the nut with a wrench. Moreover, nothing can be held by the stock. Therefore, I tightened with a tubular wrench, through which I held the stem with a 6-sided pipe.



We remove the ties and the racks are ready. The ABS sensors have not yet been screwed to them, so that they do not interfere. I will put them together with the wiring.



We install racks on the car. We insert the support bearing into the glass, and jack up the lever together with the rack - while the ball pin is clamped in the rack, and you can tighten the ball nut. If at the same time the finger scrolls, then we hold it with a 6-hedron at the end. Then tighten the three nuts on the support. We fasten the stabilizer struts to the stabilizer.



The front axle is assembled.



I immediately screwed on the brake discs, although there will be a separate entry about them later.





Now you can assemble the steering. More on that next time.

P.S.
How nice it is to put new and beautiful parts! ))

[The_Glory]

Build_09. Suspension painting

Sanded all suspension parts. Smaller and less rusty parts were sandblasted at home, and very rusty rear levers, a differential had to be taken to an industrial sandblast. For a home-made one, you need either a more powerful compressor, or something to do with the supply of sand - it takes a very long and difficult time to sand. And the hood is needed, otherwise there is a lot of dust ... In general, here is the finished result of sandblasting:



I bought a set for a beginner painter))



I took a two-component epoxy primer, and a two-component glossy black enamel.
I welded crossbars from pipes to the ceiling and made such "garlands" like this)





I screwed the old cornice to make a curtain out of the film, but I did not find hooks for it and scored on it. But in vain .... now everything is covered in dust from soil and paint) And the sand on the floor did not contribute to painting)) We will work on this in the future ... And you need to buy a respirator, otherwise you can catch a "high")
As I said, the rear arms and differential were very badly rusted, and even after industrial sanding they began to show spots of rust in the pores of the cast iron the next day. Therefore, I also cleaned them slightly and blew them with acidic soil.



The same thing with the brake discs - they were blown on top with an aluminum-zinc compound.



Well, everything else is epoxy primer.



Including rear control arms and differential.



And the second layer of soil.



And finally, paint.



Spacers then painted separately in black mat.



I painted with two-component materials for the first time, and indeed with a pulver for the third time in my life, so I painted it, of course, not ideally)) With primer it’s still normal, but with paint it’s more difficult ... it turned out to be somehow too liquid in proportions of 4: 1. Made a lot of smudges, in some places even dripping. In some places I left gaps, mostly from below, since the light is only from above and black paint in the shade, I’m also blind))) Then I had to fix it all with a second layer ... But in the end it turned out quite normal - it’s normal for the suspension! )
Now the entire suspension is painted. Although no, there is no such thing as not to forget something! ) Recently, new protective covers for the rear brake discs arrived - one was painted, and the second was not ... They were in a box, so I forgot to paint them ...
I ordered these casings at the beginning of summer. I couldn't find Klokerholm, so I ordered Bleek. Weeks passed, the order was removed twice, but on the third time it happened! And after almost three months, these casings did arrive. The package contained one painted "Klokerholm", and the second was not painted.







Moreover, the label "Blick" was pasted over the "Klokerholm" label.





I don't know what's the catch, but I got Klokerholm for the price of Blick. Although, there is not a big difference in price, but the logic of the seller is still not clear. An unpainted casing may still be "Blick" - the quality of stamping is very different.



I won’t say that it is completely bad, but on black it is much better - like in the original. Well, we have what we have! (c) I'll paint both and it will be fine. Still waiting for rear bearings and silent blocks...
The other day new tie rods came - now the front can be assembled. This is what I'm finally going to do now! )

[The_Glory]

Build_08. Eibach Pro Kit springs and MTS shocks

With this quarantine, the delivery times are simply wild! A set of springs and front shock absorbers drove for almost two months, instead of 1-2 weeks ... But the other day I did arrive!



Eibach Pro Kit spring set with -30/40mm front lowering, -30mm rear. I hope that it will not turn out to be a "jeep", in comparison with my former TA-Techniks c -60 / 70mm sagging springs)) I always wanted these springs, and now, finally, I bought it!
Manufacturer's and seller's stickers included)



Set E2003-140 are springs for BMW E30 with 6-cylinder M20 engines up to 87 years of release (before restyling). Load - front 825 kg, rear 905 kg.



Set E2019-140 are springs for cars after 87 years (restyling). The understatement is similar, but they differ in load - 865 kg in front, 945 kg in the back. That is, they are tougher. And before restyling, they will be higher than indicated, and, accordingly, vice versa - this must be taken into account when choosing.

Eibach Pro Kit E2003-140



Front 2003001VA -30/40 mm



Rear EW2003102HA -30 mm



I really wanted shock absorbers to be included with my rear ones, the same ones - Bilstein B6, but their price did not fit in the budget in any way ... I looked at used ones, but did not dare. In my opinion, the suspension should be bought new. Therefore, I bought similar ones to those that were - they suited me with everything. MTS-Technik with -40/60 mm reduction. I think it should be normal ... but B6 will be sometime later ....;)
Packed them in bags and put in a box with springs.



Mounting nut for pole and stem nut included.



MTS-Technik for flask 51 mm



During this time, more parts for assembling the suspension arrived - lower rubber bands for the front springs, lock washers for the rear hubs, an ABS wire bracket for the rear beam, rear support gaskets, nuts for the rear and front supports. Also bought a set of front bumpers and anthers. Last time, when installing "coilovers", I could not find a fender for such an underestimation for a long time - the stock one is quite long, and the M-Technic is only 15-20 mm shorter (at a not small price only in the original). This is not enough when lowering to -40 mm. Cutting fenders is such a solution - it loses a lot of rigidity at the same time. And that's when I picked up short bumpers from Opel (Cadet, Ascona, Vectra). Since I bought similar shock absorbers, I took the same fenders - MONROE PK004



Here, by the way, old and new for comparison.



It can be seen that even a short bumper shrank, and with a stock long one, the amortization would constantly lie on it.

In general, finally the front suspension can be assembled. Now in the process of sanding and painting beams, levers and racks.
During this time, I also prepared the steering rack, steering column, trapeze wipers, and there are all sorts of small pieces of iron. But about this separately.
It remains to wait until all the silent blocks and bearings on the rear arrive, and it will be possible to assemble the rear suspension. Then roll it to the painter for hanging bodywork. Everything seems to be ready, but I haven't seen it yet...)
By the way, there is a question here - if you press in the rear bearings and hubs, but do not install the gearbox and axle shafts, will it be possible to tow it on a rigid hitch? And that is, there is an opinion that the wheels can fall off along with the hubs))) Are they pressed there with a large interference fit, or are they simply inserted tightly? Or not to risk and carry on a trailer?

[The_Glory]

Build_07. Fastener preparation. Yellow zinc.

I gave fasteners for electroplating, which I forgot or did not have time to prepare last time.
Prepared in the same way - citric acid - a topic! ) Several details were sandblasted for testing.
Took this beauty in yellow zinc:



Party Gold! ))







Fasteners GUR, something along with the suspension and steering immediately install.



And this is an “extra” fastener, well, like an extra one ... I mean, I don’t know / don’t remember where it came from - I just found it in boxes. But it will come in handy somewhere ... It was very rusty, maybe that's why it turned out with a purple-raspberry tint ... Directly - fasteners of an interesting color! )



And the next batch of pieces of iron is ready for yellow galvanizing.



But there are all the engine compartment glands - it’s still a long way to install the motor, so they’ll wait for now ...
By the way, I made myself a plate according to the types of factory coating of different pieces of iron. It will be necessary to lay out - maybe it will be useful to someone.

P.S.
The springs promised to arrive one of these days, but the shock absorbers are still driving somewhere ...)

[The_Glory]

[b]Build_06. Preparing details - waiting ... [/ b]


Nothing happens to the car during this time - I covered it with an awning so that it would not be covered with dust and wait ....





Mounted parts, apparently, will be painted for a long time - I'm waiting ...
I ordered shock absorbers - I'm waiting ...
I ordered springs - I'm waiting ...
I ordered all sorts of pieces of iron and rubber bands for the suspension - I'm waiting ...
I gave fasteners for galvanizing - I'm waiting ...
With these quarantines, everything is complicated and long ... because of this, and with work, or rather with a salary, the ass has come, now the budget had to be cut, and this will also affect the timing .... in short, everything is somehow complicated and very it takes a long time ... Until I put it on wheels, I can’t assemble body parts and make anticorrosive of all cavities. Noise isolation and wiring is also not a desire to do, so that later it would not be stained with anticorrosive .... That's how one clings to another and even until I can't get off the ground .... ((
But still, there is some news. I bought a whole rear beam and on occasion, I bought a whole and already sanded and painted shield in the rear right arch.



Now I have a choice of three pieces - we'll see .... I recently wrote about their differences



A nice person gave me a whole radiator diffuser because mine was broken at the bottom.
The diffuser is from the E36, but I even thought that it was the same as for the E30 with the M40. But in fact, when comparing them, they turned out to be the same in fasteners, but different in the position of the impeller, relative to the radiator - this can be seen in the photo.



It is unlikely that he will ... but we'll see ...

While there is time, I am engaged in arranging a garage and a workshop. Almost finished sandblasting - here are the results of the first tests - like the norms.





For small parts I bought a special gun





It seems to work, but for large and heavily rusted parts, you still need to finish a large cylinder and make an exhaust hood - there is a lot of dust from it ...



But I will write about this separately when it is ready.
I can’t decide on the suspension painting - sand and paint it myself, but this again delays the time until I finish the big sandblast, or still give it to powder painting ...
Basically, we are waiting...

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_30. BBS body kit repair, attempt No. 2 (part 3) [/ B]

Let's continue from the beginning! )
In a previous post, I described repairing a BBS body kit using Mannol 9918 2K-PUR 2-component polyurethane adhesive (30ml). The entire scope of work took 6 cartridges. But there are still some little things left - extra holes and a badly damaged mounting side of the front apron.
After the trial installation of the body kit, I prudently circled the necessary holes with a black marker.



Accordingly, all the rest had to be removed. Liquid glue was not very suitable for this, besides, it ended. And then I remembered hot glue. I had black rods, but they did not fit the glue gun in diameter. Therefore, he simply warmed them with a lighter or a burner and covered up the extra holes. Then I cut off the excess and it turned out not bad at all.







I cleaned off the BBS factory mark on the front apron - now it will be clear from the front that this is a rare and original BBS set)



On the front apron, on one side, there was practically no mounting side. With the help of a plastic corner and hot glue, it was possible to restore it.



The front part will still grind in preparation



And now about the "collective farm BBS")) Earlier, I already wrote about an interesting BBS solution with a tow hook. Velcro! )) Collective farm, and only! ))) But here it is, BBS! On self-tapping screws, and on Velcro! )) Well, actually, I decided to repeat the original collective farm))
Finding such a cover is almost impossible, so I took the dimensions, made a 3D model and, after the N-th number of layouts on paper, printed it on a 3D printer. The third time it turned out fine)





But to be honest - it looks so-so ... The difference with the left side is very noticeable ... well, we'll see ...
This concludes the BBS, and move on to the spoilers.

I had the original spoiler installed and a Breyton wing on top of it. If you say that this is a collective farm and bust, then I will answer you - BMW M-Technic II and Zender spoilers have a similar 2-storey structure. This is at least. Seemed like someone else, but I do not remember. I like the way it looks, so I'll leave it that way. But for this you need to put them in order.
The ends of the original spoiler are cut to fit the Breyton wing, and the metal base around the edges is quite badly rotted.



I removed as much of the loose rust as I could. On the one hand, even the mounting stud fell off.



I filled it all with a rust converter, then filled it with hot glue. To do this, I still had to buy a gun for 11 mm rods - a sensible thing, I think it will come in handy more than once for repairing plastic.





And now I will dispel another very popular myth, which says that if you paint the original rubber spoiler, it will eventually crack and peel off. So — this spoiler was painted in 2000. And during this time, the only "jamb" was a slight swelling of the paint, apparently from the ingress of water. You can see it in the photo.



However, not a single crack! Moreover, the coating is still elastic, and it can be torn off like a film!



Again, I repeat - you just need to be able to paint like that! The painter said that it was all about plasticizers, and that he would paint in the same way.

Let's move on to the Breyton wing. This is a pretty rare thing. Is it an original or a replica - I don't know, because in the original their body kits for the E30 were made of fiberglass - just like my rear wing. The quality looks quite like the original ... but it is not known there ...



But I can say for sure that the third brake light is already a self-made "tuning". For which this was cut out.



Maybe I would have left it - it looked not bad, and there was practical use - the diodes still light up before the bulbs in the taillights - this is noticeable visually. But I put the original third brake light, and it turned out too much)) Therefore, I decided to remove it. But I don’t know how to work with fiberglass, so the painter will do it.
The wing, unlike the stock spoiler, is fastened not with studs, but with bolts - there are threaded bushings inside.





Breyton mark



2 in 1 )



And now about the sad ... ((In the evening I put all the plastic in the trunk. Like this.



I put the thresholds on the front apron, which I specially placed vertically so that it would not bend ...



In the morning I went to work, put the car in the parking lot, and in the evening immediately to the painter. I arrived, pulled out the thresholds ... and then, I almost cried ... ((((On the street during the day it was more than +30, in the car it was probably +50 - and the apron, under the weight of the thresholds, caved in by 15 centimeters! I was just speechless ... after all I rushed with him like a fool, 5 years in the garage, so that he would not be scratched or bent anywhere, and then in one day such a fuck!
Horror ... the painter reassured me that everything would be evened out ... but I don't know ... fuck!
On this "optimistic" note on body kit - the end ...

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_29. BBS body kit repair, attempt No. 2 (part 2) [/ B]

In the previous entry, I forgot to say that the BBS body kit is made of polyurethane, so it is not soldered, and it is very poorly glued with ordinary glue for plastic or for bumpers - I checked this a long time ago. A more or less normal result was achieved after connecting the cracks with internal metal linings on flush rivets, followed by filling the cracks from the outside with sealant. But over time, cracks still appeared at the joints. That is why this time I bought a 2-component polyurethane adhesive. This is a material similar in composition, which forms a "monolith" at the joints.
There is an opinion that polyurethane cannot be glued with fiberglass to epoxy with high quality. I will write about this below.

So, I bought four more cartridges of 2-component polyurethane adhesive Mannol 9918 2K-PUR (30ml), and after gaining a little experience, I started to more complex damage. A big crack, or rather a tear, in the rear apron. Fixed the edges with a plate.





Mixing components directly on the mesh is not very convenient, especially if the surface is not in the same plane. Therefore, I began to mix the glue on a piece of tile, and then apply the finished mixture to the grid. So much more convenient. Here's a "yin-yang")



Apply to the grid



The glue is quite liquid, so if you apply it to horizontal and vertical sections at the same time, it starts to flow down. Therefore, on the front apron, I already glued separately horizontal and vertical sections - experience and practice is a great thing! )
Front side - the crack is not completely filled



Additional outer layer to completely fill the crack



Excess will be removed when preparing for painting.
And now, as I promised above, a few words about gluing polyurethane with fiberglass with epoxy resin. Here, opinions are divided into radically opposite ones - some say that it glues well, others that it immediately disappears, since polyurethane is flexible, and fiberglass with epoxy is rigid, so they are not compatible. I myself thought so at first ... So, - I bought this apron in 2008, already glued in one place - just on the BBS factory mark, so it was cleaned and puttied.



The crack is the same size as the second one, and they are located nearby - on the sides of the niche for the towing eye. In this photo on the left you can see the trace of the old repair.



And the repair was made with the help of fiberglass and epoxy!



I don’t know how and from what the second crack appeared - I gave the car to my father and he somehow managed to catch on to something)) But the fact that after a very hard contact with something, the apron was torn in another place “on the live”, and a crack glued more than 10 years ago with fiberglass, located nearby, ten centimeters away, did not suffer at all - it says something! Apparently, you just need to know the right proportions and be able to work with epoxy resin - then there will be a high-quality joint. Even polyurethane.
But back to our sheep. Those. to the front apron.
There was a crack on the sidewall, which I greatly expanded - I thought I overdid it ...





But as it turned out later - it's even better - it was perfectly filled with glue and did not have to be glued on the outside. The glue spread well under the tape.



We remove the adhesive tape



Lightly cleaned



From within



By the way, on this crack I noticed that the glue is semi-transparent to the light, although it seems black.
And finally, the most difficult place remains - a gap along the bottom of the "lip". At first I fixed it with a plate, but it interfered a lot, so I decided to glue it without it. As I wrote above - first the horizontal plane



Then vertical



So much more convenient. And an additional outer layer



From within



On the thinnest places left riveted plates.
By the way, you can see the place of repair from the first attempt nearby. The second attempt turned out to be even neater.
Hope it holds up well.
At this point, I ran out of glue, but there were still some little things left. About them in the next part;)