E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Build_17. Body wiring (part 1)

For a number of reasons, my assembly stopped a little .... and all these holidays and all that ...) But the process, albeit more slowly, is still going on. In order not to waste time at all, I decided to do wiring - this does not require a lot of money, but it requires a lot of time. I like to tinker with wiring), so I decided to take it thoroughly. As long as there is free access to all connectors and wires, I will do what I haven’t done before, finish what I haven’t done before, and redo what I did before! )) In general - a complete revision and upgrade. For a long time I have had such an idea - to use all the connectors in the wiring - "full" should be everywhere! )) I have been doing this for several weeks now on quiet winter evenings. I have not yet reached the final result, but there is already an intermediate one. Therefore, the wiring will be a "miniseries" in several parts. So, part one - Body wiring.
The wiring has been lying in a cardboard box in a "ball" for the third year already, and it is obvious that in order to work with it, it needs to be untangled and laid out. There is no room for this in the garage. I wanted to lay it out in the workshop on the floor, but there is sand. He spread the film and began to lay it out. But then even I thought that it would drag on for more than one day, and during this time you need to walk here - someone will definitely trample some kind of connector. And I got a great idea - to make a special stand! ) For this, the old chain-link mesh was perfect - and it was just enough in length.



By the way, my help dog spends these winter evenings in the garage with me)))
I unraveled and hung out the body wiring, including the wiring for the power windows and the central lock.





I examined it, and came to the conclusion that it was necessary to unwind it all, inspect it and rewind it, because even though it all worked, in some places the condition was far from ideal. For example, wiring to the fuel pump:



Power window wiring with some incomprehensible knots and bows.



The long-suffering connector of the driver's door with twists and jumpers:



The passenger door connector seems to look a little better.



The wiring under the dashboard I initially was laid wrong. I already tried to shift it correctly, but it did not quite work out as it should. Now I'll fix it.



The front end with headlight connectors also looked sad. A few years ago I already rewound them with "Soviet" rag tape, but it "mummified")) It dried up, stuck with mud, and began to break like brushwood.





I started to unwind - it turned out to be more difficult than I thought. In some places anticorrosive and bitumen glued the electrical tape tightly, in some places there were all sorts of "collective farm" electrical tapes, of various colors and types, which were very poorly unwound. The most severe turned out to be green - I had to cut it off. There was a lot of glue, anticorrosive and dirt on the wiring, so I washed all the wires and connectors with white spirit with a toothbrush, then washed the connectors with white spirit from the compressor. Here is the tool - a scalpel, a spatula, a toothbrush and a lot of white spirit. And the result is half a box of scraps of electrical tape, and clean, bare wiring.



And then I freaked out even more! If the rear part of the wiring was in quite good condition, then its front engine compartment is a horror - twisting on twisting ... When I put restyled headlights, I cut off the old connectors and "pinned" the connectors from restyling. And now I was surprised that there were already twists a little higher along the braid - someone changed the connectors before me ... in the end - a bunch of twists. We will remove all this and bring it back to normal.





The left door connector will most likely need to be changed completely.





For that right after washing, almost like new.



And connectors C302, C103, C101 are planned to be stuffed to "full"! ;)





Bought the necessary tools and materials.



I bought Tesa electrical tape - in the original it is exactly like this, but when ordering from officials it costs 4 times more. I took 5 skeins of fabric, 2 lavsan, and 1 PVC. Fabric - for the interior, lavsan - for the engine compartment, trunk and external wiring, PVC - for isolating twists and fixing branches - it is the most sticky.
I bought two types of heat shrink - regular and glued. On glue it is more rigid and airtight - I used it on the branches of the bundles, soldered only the edges.
Thanks to a colleague on the E30, I stocked up with donor pieces of wiring and connectors. I also still have my own stocks.



I did what should have been done a long time ago - I printed out the complete ETM for my wiring in '86, and just in case for '89 - it's much more convenient than separate sheets.



Well, and away we go! )) Light creative mess in the process )



My wall-mounted semi-hood was very useful - a convenient magnetic board)



At the moment, the front (engine compartment) and rear (salon and trunk) part of the body wiring is already ready. Nearly all connectors have been replaced on the front, unnecessary twists have been removed, the rest have been crimped and insulated. I made an extension cord on the factory connectors for the antifreeze level sensor, since the tank is in my radiator. All harnesses are rewound with lavsan tape.







At the back, everything was much simpler - I replaced the connectors with number plate lights, and removed the "collective farm" corrugations from the pump harness. I rewound the trunk harness with lavsan tape, and the interior part with fabric.



For the first part, I think enough. Next time - about upgrades in the middle part of the body wiring.

[The_Glory]

Club calendar 2021

Traditional club calendar entry)



According to the voting results, the best 12 photos from 32 participants got into the calendar.

A preview of the entire calendar Ukrainian Club BMW E30 for 2021 can be viewed [url=http://forum.e30club.com.ua/index.php/topic,5026.msg1010907.html#msg1010907]here[ /url]

In my most "rosy" plans, I expected that my car would participate in the competition this year, so to speak, in a new look .... but even it did not work out .... at least be in time for the next competition in 2022 .. .. :)
But so far, and in the old "interesting color", she took 4th place out of 12 ;)



I took my calendars.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_33. Processing of hidden cavities of the body.

All body parts are painted and hung - the next item on the work plan is the treatment of body cavities with anticorrosive. Materials for the preparation of the body and sealants were used by APP, so I chose the anticorrosive agent from the same manufacturer - a penetrating ML composition with APP Profil F400 wax. It has good reviews and good value for money. It is available in two colors - amber and clear, in 0.5L aerosol cans and 1.0L pistol cans. I could not get any data on its consumption either from sellers or find it on the Internet, so I took 4 cylinders per liter "by eye". Two amber for doors and sills, and two clear for more visible areas. And, just in case, one aerosol can of 0.5 liters of amber. I bought a gun for these cylinders with a tube for cavities, and another spare tube. Seems to be well prepared.)



Decided to start with spars. I screwed a tube onto the gun instead of a nozzle ... and from the very first attempt something went wrong! )) There is a hole on the lid of the gun for air intake, so that a vacuum is not created in the cylinder. And when you first pressed the "trigger" of the pistol, for some reason the anticorrosive agent went not into the tube, but into this hole with a fountain up! How I managed to dodge him, so that my whole face would not flood - I don’t know! ))) But I did it! Splattered the roof, fender, hood ... Wiped everything, and began to see what was wrong. It turned out that amber anticorrosive is many times thicker than transparent. I don’t know why .... their expiration dates are normal and the same, the composition according to the description is also no different. In general, he didn’t want to be sprayed through the tube, the air blew into the balloon, and the anticorrosive agent again flew up in a fountain! ... The balloon was already swollen - it’s good that it didn’t burst! It would be totally fun! ))) I had to screw a self-tapping screw into this hole and try without a tube - it sprays normally, but in the end it compresses the balloon with a vacuum, well, it doesn’t matter anymore ...



I decided to blow out without a tube wherever there is access - I started with the doors. I sealed all the holes with masking tape from the outside, so as not to fill the paint, and at the same time, following the traces on the adhesive tape, the coating of the cavities with anticorrosive will be visible.







By the way, my right front door is now the safest) - with a shockproof beam. Apparently from a car of the last years of production, or maybe from a car with an airbag.



I poured it from the heart, as for myself! )







The drainage drains remained through and did not clog tightly with anticorrosive, after the anticorrosive has dried, I will check them and periodically clean them.
I decided to remove the wings and apron in order to properly process all the surfaces under them and from the inside.







The wings were covered from the inside with the same sealant as the bottom, but I decided to blow them out with anticorrosive as well - it would not be superfluous.





Further, I paid special attention to the niche of the heater and wiper motor, knowing the problems with its drainage. To begin with, even before that, I spilled all these niches with water - not a drop got into the cabin, all the water leaves, as it was intended. That is, they welded and treated with sealant everything is fine there, and the carpet promises to be dry for many years)) Moreover, the front drainage of the hatch is now also brought out. But to be sure, I shed even more well drains niches.







It also blew well through the speaker holes into the front corners of the thresholds - a classic place for rot, although now it should not rot - as I said above, water from the hatch will no longer pour there.
The next problematic place of the E30 body is the rear arches, especially the right one. There is access there - it is also flooded from the outside and from the inside.



The front apron was blown out with the remnants, although it was also already covered from the inside with sealant.





This is the end of 2 bottles. I blew out the last aerosol can in the rapids. Included with it was a thin long tube, and in aerosols the anticorrosive agent was more liquid - it puffed into the rapids perfectly. Rather, in comparison with the compressor, it does not spray, but pours. Therefore, the aerosol can ends at lightning speed. Moreover, they write that 0.5 l is the volume of the cylinder itself, and the anticorrosive in it is about 0.3 l + air. Therefore, it is more profitable to buy cylinders for a pistol - there is still 1 liter of anticorrosive.
It remains to blow out the hidden cavities ... Transparent anticorrosive is much more liquid, but he did not want to be sprayed through the tube ... damn. Googling, I realized that this is not only me. People write that you need to either heat the cylinder, or take a tube of a larger diameter, or shorten this one. I heated the balloon in boiling water, cut off half of the tube - and everything worked fine!
There are a lot of factory holes in the sills and spars, so even half the length of the tube is enough. I poured it first from below, then from above from the trunk and the passenger compartment, until it started to flow from below.



From below, on the rear spars, it was especially "convenient" to do this, lying under the car ... But he still poured it into all the holes! I also shed the sills along the entire length and the front spars.
Just in case, I blew out the motor shield, where it will be covered with soundproofing.



Transparent anticorrosive is almost invisible - it gives a matte tint, so for more or less visible areas it suits better than amber. Although it takes much longer to dry.
The rest blew out the niches in the trunk and the joint of the floor with the partition.









And this anticorrosive ended completely.
It remains to blow out the trunk lid, hood and front frame. In order to "do not run twice" again) I bought another transparent one liter and two aerosol cans. I sealed some of the holes and also filled the ribs of the trunk, front frame and hood from the heart.





You can clearly see from the adhesive tape whether it has been spilled everywhere, and at the same time, the transparent anticorrosive agent is almost invisible.



The rest was already poured into all the holes that I saw)) - into the beam under the torpedo, into all the roof pillars, along the perimeter of the hatch trough. The only thing that has not been processed is the manhole cover. There is nowhere to pour there, and maybe later it will “stick” somewhere there ... I didn’t dare ... Well, there’s also a tank hatch - there’s nowhere to pour it. )

As a result, the whole body took 5 bottles of 1 liter, and 3 aerosol cans of 0.5 liters.



I am satisfied with the result - the coating is uniform, after drying it practically does not stick, and it looks much neater than any bitumen, especially transparent. At first it stinks, but after a few days the smell was almost gone.
I hope that its quality will not disappoint me over time, and the body will live happily ever after! ))
On this optimistic note, we can solemnly declare that the body work, in spite of everything, and against all odds, is finally fully completed! Hooray! ))
Now it's just build, build and build again! )
The only trouble is with funding in connection with these viruses and quarantines ... But I hope that everything will work out .... or I will find another job ....)

P.S.
During this time, I began to deal with soundproofing and wiring, but more on that later, when there will be some result.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_32. Painting of hinged body parts

A few weeks ago, the painter cheered me up with the news that I can bring a machine to assemble attachments - they seem to be finally painted!
Everything was already prepared for me - the car was on wheels, the steering was installed, the handbrake worked - it was quite transportable! )
Quickly installed seals, hinges, locks.



And pulled it out into the street. I decided to save money on a tow truck)) I was too lazy to fool around with a trailer - you first need to go after it half a city, hitch it, then return home with it, load the car, then remove it, then drive the trailer back through half a city - a lot of unnecessary movements . Since it is already quite transportable, I decided to drag it on a rigid hitch - cheap, cheerful, fast and convenient.





And then it turns out that the painter has not yet painted everything, or even there it didn’t work out - in short - cancellation .... damn. As for evil, it was still raining - it's good that I covered the body with a cover.



I drove it back to the garage last night...
A week later, attempt number 2))
Pulled out of the garage, hitched to the hitch and drove off. Much faster and more convenient than towing a trailer.



But not everything is as good as it seemed! )) At a speed of more than 40 km / h, a vibration appeared, which increased significantly with right turns. With left norms. After a few turns, I had to stop and see what was wrong there. And not so, there was a convergence on the left wheel, exposed "by eye". The right wheel was straight, and the left was noticeably turned to the left. Therefore, "thirty" all the time trying to overtake)) and very resistant to right turns). But there’s nothing left to do, there’s no time left, it’s not far to go - I turned on the emergency gang and drove at a speed of 35-40 km / h. Despite the fact that I created some inconvenience on the ring road, everyone looked at it, turned around, and BMW drivers even showed "thumbs up")) In general, I drove to the exit from the ring road - and then the right turn .... Slowly I turn along a large radius ... the hitch shakes .... and then even so bamm !!! I look in the mirror - thirty still went to overtake! ))) Damn, I almost crap myself! ))) I brake sharply and jump out to catch it))) In short, the nuts were pulled out of the left side member, to which the hitch was screwed. Fortunately, it didn’t vomit on the right side member, so the hitch broke and the car rested its wheel on it, and didn’t go into the oncoming lane to someone in the forehead ... Some guy ran up, thanks to him for the help - they dragged him off, unhooked him, rolled him into the parking lot of the supermarket . In principle, except for the torn nuts, there were no casualties and destruction. And it could have been much worse... Called a tow truck while waiting for him, almost every passer-by took pictures of the car - apparently, not every day you see a bare body on wheels in the parking lot of a supermarket)) After all these adventures, I finally got to the painter. They put four doors, but he still didn’t have time to paint everything else ...) Another couple of weeks passed, and finally the whole hinge is ready. By the way, the torn nuts were welded back in the same place and painted. Picked it up yesterday. On a tow truck! )))







The gaps still need to be set. The doors are still norms, and the muzzle was screwed in hastily, as it happened.
But she already looks like a car)







I still have to play around with the hatch...



There are a few "grains" on the door and trunk, but after polishing they will go away - as the master promised. It remains to paint the body kit .... it is already prepared, and they promised to do it in a week .... but I don’t even believe it ...))

Further plans - processing of all hidden cavities. I will process with the composition of APP Profile F400. I ordered a pistol. As soon as everything arrives, I'll start. I also made a "revision" for all body plugs - I figured out where which ones are put, some are there, some must be ordered before.

[The_Glory]

Factory documentation

In the assembly, I have another short pause, so this time we will talk about rarities. Well, it’s not that it’s really a rarity, but as they say - a trifle, but nice! )
Historically, nothing from the factory documentation of my car came to me ... But I always wanted to have it ... for "feng shui", so to speak;) the very beginning to be! ) First, my colleague in the ward gave me instructions for my radio, then, on occasion, I bought an original folder for documentation. Again, by chance, there was a card for the code in it, just from the same radio. Further, another colleague in the ward ;) presented a factory tag with configuration codes. And recently, another colleague in the ward ;) made me an offer that I could not refuse) - he offered a good set of books at a good price. Of course I bought! )
And now I have such a complete folder



Inside which is another folder)



Rather, it is a transparent dense "package" with a pocket.



In which all the books are placed.



Set:
Operation manual, service book, list of dealers with maps and addresses, instructions for the radio, a card with a code for the radio, and a tag with bundle codes (although it should not be stored in a folder - after assembly I will put it in its place - under the rear seat; ) )



1. Operation manual



Unlike red cover books, this manual is not for a specific model, but for the entire model range.



Excellent condition



The characteristics of all models are described



2. Service book.



For model 316i, 4-cylinder (or door?), with catalytic converter. Date of sale 05.02.88. Color lachssilber (grey metallic). According to the specified VIN code, it is precisely such a machine that breaks through - everything converges)



The service history is not very long, but still there. Serviced in Germany by Autohaus Struwe, a BMW and Mini dealer in Lennestadt.





3. List of dealers with maps and addresses as of 87/88.



Addresses



Map



4. Instructions for the radio and a card with a code for it.



BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS RDS



5. Tag with bundle codes.



Such tags at the factory were placed under the rear seat during assembly. According to the specified VIN code, a white 325i with a blue interior and good equipment breaks through. The release date is 11/29/89, or more precisely, at 20:05. German punctuality! )

Here is such a kit.



The kit, although complete, is basic, so to speak, but still not quite "correct" ... After all, it was assembled from different cars, and for restyled models. In the future, I hope to find a kit for 316 or 325i before restyling. And I’ll make a tag for the configuration myself for my car;)

And now all the same, about rarities! )
Thanks to another colleague in the ward ;) , I bought a top Hi-Fi audio wiring for a standard amplifier.



The connector to the radio is cut off, but not critical - I will rearrange it from my usual wiring, it was also cut off there - audio tuning mp3 of the 2000s ...
A nice bonus, from the same colleague, was a gift - these are rare rubber bands - whoever is in the subject, he recognized them, I think ...;)





That's all for now. Build news coming soon.

[The_Glory]

Nice work.
The handbrake can be a pain - but looks like you have this all sorted.
Always good to see progress.

Thanks

[Tzantushka]

Nice work.
The handbrake can be a pain - but looks like you have this all sorted.
Always good to see progress.

[The_Glory]

Build_16. ETK_34_Brake mechanisms (part 1 "handbrake")

Let's move on to the next section.

ETK_34_Brakes

Since the rear suspension is already installed, when assembling it, I immediately installed the "handbrake", so as not to climb there twice. Therefore, let's start this section from the end:

Parking brake/control



Details No. 12, 15, 16, 17 are not used. They are designed for holding drum brakes.
Part No. 9 - a leather case, was placed only on the "Edition" package (black, gray, blue).
All cleaned/painted. I did not disassemble the lever button, it is normally pressed.



The lever housing in the ETK comes with a metal frame, but inside it I also found a plastic frame, which is not in the ETK. Didn't notice her before. Apparently it is in order for the casing to keep its shape better.



In the ETK picture, I was interested in item No. 6 - I did not see it myself. Chet, by her appearance, thought it was some kind of stop-limiter for the lever. Where exactly it is put, I did not understand, but I ordered it just in case.



Everything cleared up when I picked up the lever. It turned out that this is a spacer clip - it is inserted from below into the skids for cables, and is bursting with a protruding pin. It separates the cables from each other. And I had it in its place safe and sound - you can see it in the photo above) So the new one was not useful.
In the presence of a rear stabilizer and disc brakes, the handbrake cables are attached with special clips with a bracket to the brackets of the stabilizer struts. Both of them were broken for me, besides, they were not installed correctly, so they did not hold the cables. I ordered new clips, I updated the brackets with yellow zinc.



Parking brake/brake pads



Now about the mechanism and adjustment of the handbrake.
It should be noted that even when buying a car, the handbrake did not work at all. As it turned out later, on the one hand, its mechanism was rusted to death, and on the other hand, it was completely absent altogether. I bought one mechanism at a disassembly, cleaned both of them, bought new original cables, new Ferrodo pads, and all this was assembled and somehow adjusted ... But for all 12 years, the handbrake never worked normally for me. Well, how - he kept on a flat surface, but on a large slope the car still rolled. There was no question of police reversals at all! ))) Despite all my efforts to adjust it, there was no sense - either it doesn’t hold, or it wedges, and the disks heat up. In the end, I scored on him.
By the way, the adjustment method described in Etzold's book is still crap. Well, I couldn’t turn this sprocket by touch, through the bolt hole of the disk!
In general, this time I'm still determined to defeat him! ) The cables and pads essentially remained new, as they never worked. The spring kit is new. Everything else was sanded, cleaned and coated with yellow zinc.



One pin (No. 6) was lost, so I had to get out of the situation with a light "collective farm") I cut off a piece of a 6 mm drill - it fit perfectly. Although, it was possible to order a new one, but the timing ....



The photo shows one locking spring for the adjustment mechanism. I never had a second one. Yes, in fact, it only interferes there - it’s not very convenient to turn the asterisk anyway, so this spring still wedges it all the time. By chance, the asterisk will hardly turn itself. Apparently, therefore, already on the E36, this spring was no longer installed from the factory. I decided not to install it either. In addition, this is another detail with an inadequate price. It costs more than the entire adjustment mechanism assembly - 12-15 Euros per piece. It seems not much and much, but for such a thing, especially not really needed, it seems like a bust ... But maybe later I will order it ... if it's boring ...)

With a non-original spring repair kit, it was not so simple. The pad pins on one side did not fit the brake disc shields, but it's more like a shield jamb - there were just slots, without a round hole in the center, as it should be. If I had noticed this earlier, I could have drilled these holes, but the assembly is no longer accessible. Therefore, I had to grind two pins on a grinder. This did not affect the fixation of the pads.
The second jamb is already with springs and more complex. The lower springs are normal, but on the upper ones their ears are bent in the wrong direction. Because of this, the spring, resting against the shoe, almost does not reach the holes with its ear, and pops out at the slightest touch. I had to bend my ears - in the photo the first one is already bent from above, the second, as it was. It is better to bend hot. Otherwise, the norms of the spring.



In the photo, the number of the repair kit is similar. Maybe in other analogues the springs are correctly bent, but they cost much more.
Build it all. We fasten the cable support at the bottom. We fix the pads with pins with springs.



Next, we put the adjusting mechanism in the grooves of the shoes, with an asterisk back. In fact, there is no difference, but Etzold writes so. At the same time, for wiring the pads on the left and right, the asterisk will need to be twisted in different directions.
Further, in my case, we play with the bending of the ears of the upper spring until it securely hooks on the pads, and at the same time, it does not interfere with turning the adjustment sprocket - like this:



I pre-screwed the cable brackets with clips to the stabilizer brackets.



In this form, the beam was installed on the machine. After that, we insert the cables into their body tubes and bring them out into the cabin.



We insert the other end into the hole in the lever and bring it out to the blocks. The cable is just tight. Lubricated his clips, so that he could be pulled out easier if necessary. We adjust and bend the brackets with clips and fix the cable in them.





We assemble the spacer mechanism, insert the eye of the cable into its groove and fix it with a pin. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture, but there is no other way to assemble it. We insert the spacer mechanism into the lower grooves of the pads with its hinge back, and pull the cable from the passenger compartment.
I did not regulate according to Etzold! )) We breed the pads so that the brake disc on them was dressed completely butt, but could rotate. We dress the disk, fasten it with a screw.



Let's go to the salon. We fasten the contact of the control lamp limit switch to the lever, and install the lever in its place. We stretch both cables through the grooves of the lever, make sure that the cables run exactly along the skids and are separated from each other by the same spacer clip that I mentioned above. We fix the lever with three bolts.



Raise the lever 5 clicks, and tighten the nuts on the cables until the rear discs are completely locked. We lower the handbrake, check how the disks are spinning. If necessary, repeat again - we still hold out the cables, or let them go. I finally managed to adjust the handbrake normally - it holds perfectly on the slope of my garage. Let's see how it will be on the go .... Now you can not only steer, but also slow down! )



The casing, of course, I will put already when assembling the cabin.
Hopefully it will finally work properly! Otherwise, without police turns, 12 years have passed in vain! )))

[The_Glory]

Build_15. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 3)

We continue to assemble the rear suspension.
ETK_33_Rear Axle

The rear beam is installed, it remains to install the stabilizer and shock absorbers with springs.

Suspension strut parts rear



First you need to assemble the shock absorbers. Bilstein B6 sport shocks.



It's simple - we collect everything, as in the ETK picture (parts No. 8 and No. 9 are not used). We put a chipper on the stem, the lower large plate with the “bottom” up, the support with the paper gasket, the upper small plate with the “bottom” down, and tighten the new self-locking nut. Just like the front and rear shock absorbers, manufacturers highly recommend not holding anything on the stem and tightening it with a wrench. Therefore, we hold the stem with a key for 6 at its end, and tighten the nut with a key for 17. We get such a "sandwich".



Last time, when I collected shock absorbers for coilovers, I decided to put the upper plate on the contrary, "bottom" up - so it clamps the support more tightly and harder. This time I decided to put it like a book writes)
I put the duster last - it fits tightly on the bottom plate. But it seemed to me that it would be more convenient to immediately put it on the bottom plate, and put them together.
We put protective rubber caps on the top plate.
The lower bolts and washers were updated with yellow zinc, the upper nuts are new self-locking.
Shock absorbers are ready for installation.



Barrel spring kit



There's not much to write here.)
Springs are new, but not stock - Eibach Pro Kit E2003-140
Rear EW2003102HA -30 mm



rear stabilizer bar



The rear stabilizers on the E30 were of several types, and were not installed on all cars. I have a rear stabilizer with a diameter of 14.5 mm - the thickest of the factory ones. It was installed in the M-Technic sports suspension package, and on the pre-facelifted 325i it was in stock.
Touring had 13.5mm stubs
On 4-cylinder sedans 12.5 mm as an option.
On the 14.5 mm stub, rubber bands are available only in the original. I bought them new a few years ago and they are still like new.
Details No. 8, 9, 12 are not used.
All fasteners are of course updated with yellow zinc.



We start to put all this on the car.
We put on the plates the lower and upper rubber gaskets of the springs. They come in different thicknesses - I bought the original medium thickness ones that came with the sport package.
By the way, here's what pleasantly surprised me - most of the suspension rubber bands that I bought a few years ago, despite our roads, are in excellent condition! Toli this is due to the fact that I drive little and carefully, roofing felts due to the fact that then I took either the original or the Lemferder. In general, I am satisfied with the quality!
But back to assembly. Rear springs with -30 mm at the maximum lowered levers, easily steel without the use of ties.



Before putting shock absorbers, you need to install a stabilizer - so it will be much easier to put it in its place - between the boot floor and the differential. I screwed the lower mounting brackets to the levers even before installing the beam, but did not tighten them - they will need to be slightly adjusted in place to install the stub racks. We put on elastic bands, brackets, insert the brackets into the groove on the body, align the stub, and tighten it with bolts.



We put racks on the ends of the stub and fasten them to the lower brackets on the levers.



We adjust and align the brackets so that the stub rack moves without creases, and tighten the nuts. That's all with the stub.



Install shock absorbers. Before installation, some manufacturers recommend pumping them - compress and release the stem several times in a vertical position. Moreover, after pumping, they cannot be laid horizontally - otherwise, it will be necessary to pump again. Convinced of this on their front. Then it’s quite simple - we bait the lower bolt (do not forget to put the washer), insert the shock absorber into the mounting holes on the glass, jack up the lever, and twist two nuts from the trunk. Then tighten the bottom bolt. Amorths in place.




At the same time, I immediately installed the rear strut. In addition to increasing the rigidity of the body, the strut flanges also play the role of rear support amplifiers. Such washers were regularly installed on the E36, to distribute the load on the entire mounting plane of the support. On the E30, this will also not be superfluous.



Well, that's all! Rear axle installed.
The main thing is not to forget to still hold on to the nuts of the silent blocks of the levers, and change, tighten and lock the hub nuts! )
Along the way, in order not to climb twice, I also put a handbrake - this can be seen in the photo, but more on that next time;)

And finally put the wheels!
in limbo)





And now the long-awaited moment - a solemn descent to the ground! ))) Finally, she is not on "crutches", but on her wheels, and you can already roll her freely!





It seems like a trifle, but my mood has already improved - at least some progress! )) Today I rolled it out of the garage for the first time - I'm happy as an elephant! Almost the first trip! )))

[The_Glory]

[b]Build_14. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 2) [/ b]

We continue to assemble the rear walker.
ETK_33_Rear Axle

Final drive



There were some problems with the assembly of the differential - the original cover gasket costs a penny, but the delivery time was announced to me from a month ... (I ordered it, a month has already passed, but it is not there yet, and when it will be, it is not known). Therefore, I decided to cut out a home-made one, from special paper that had been in the stash since ancient times. The original gasket is also made of paper, by the way. I wanted to trace it along the contour, or make an imprint with the help of a lubricant - I remember my father did this in Soviet times in his LADA. But my brother suggested a good and simple way - to tap the contour with a hammer. I have never heard of such a method before - it sounds a little strange, but it works well. To do this, you need a small hammer and an adapter with a spherical tip. In my case, the pliers fit perfectly, at the end of the handle of which there was an ebb in the form of a ball. You can use a bearing ball. The technology is as follows - we apply a sheet of paper tightly to the lid and punch the bolt holes with a light blow with a ball. We fix the paper by inserting bolts into the holes. And so in a circle.



Then, lightly tap through the paper along the contour of the outer and inner edges of the lid. The paper breaks through, and we get a clear and precise contour of the gasket.



We cut through the places that are not punched with scissors, and we get a gasket that is no worse than the original one.



Now everything seems to be ready to assemble the differential.
Rear axle gear box cover/ imp. sensor



The silent block is new, the fasteners are all updated with yellow zinc.



I am missing item #11 - speed sensor connector cover. I have never seen anyone with her. Even in the photo of the new red 323i E30 (many have seen it on the Internet for sale), this cover is not. Yes, and it is not clear why it is there - in order to remove the connector, you will have to unscrew the speed sensor - some kind of nonsense. Maybe they stopped installing it from the factory later .... Although it is available for order. For the price of 65 Euro. I thought that I will continue to do without it) Another detail with an inadequate price;)

I did not dare to climb inside - I had no complaints about the gearbox, so I decided not to interfere with its work further)) Accordingly, the sections Flange Bearings /E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/rear_axle/drive_flange_suspension_gasket/]Diff.outlet flange bearings/gasket seal skip.





Although in the first section there is an interesting entry in the ETC:
Additionally
Warning! drive side flange and nut should not be replaced.
ETK doesn't even have their numbers. I wonder why? By the way, this flange with a nut was smeared with sealant ... well, okay - I didn’t really want to replace them)) I just painted it.



My differential is not simple, but [s]gold[/s] with differential lock! By the way, looking at the current prices for them - it's still gold! )))
Differential locking element rear axle gear



Well, here it is, the almighty lock! )



For me, this is a rather complicated mechanism, and I'm not sure that I could then assemble everything correctly - all these preloads, disks, plates ... Moreover, there is such an entry in the ETK:
Additionally
individual parts are no longer offered
Yes, they can still be found somewhere, and the locks are being repaired, but this is not a cheap pleasure. And even more so, if you do it just like that, without good reason, then this is not very reasonable. ) Therefore, I didn’t get there either. I just twisted the flanges, checked the gear ratio again - it corresponds to the tabular data for the 325i. What the tag on the gearbox says.



S - gearbox with lock
3.73 - its gear ratio
0632 is a part number that says that this gearbox was installed on the conveyor, and was not installed as a repair. On gearboxes that come as a spare part, the gear ratio is not indicated directly, but by the number of teeth on the gears, and there is also the letter A.
If someone does not know how to check the gear ratio - turn the wheel flange 1 turn and count the revolutions of the cardan flange (I have 3.73 turns) - this will be the gear ratio. For a more accurate calculation, you can make 10 turns of the wheel flange, then the difference will be more obvious at close numbers - 3.64 and 3.73 for example (I have 37.3 turns). In a gearbox with a block, both wheel flanges rotate in the same direction, and in a gearbox without a block, in different directions.

Before installation, it was necessary to press the silent block into the cover. And then, the second problem happened ... Often, the cover clip breaks .... I knew about this, and warned a friend about this, who pressed the silents for me. But it did not help. ) The lid still burst! I was very upset .... ((( Judging by the reviews, it makes no sense to weld it - the metal becomes brittle from heating, and it breaks next to the welding. I did not check this, and began to look for another cover. This is a very scarce part, respectively , and not cheap.But at least I was lucky here - the cover was quickly found, and not as expensive as possible.



On the second attempt, it was still possible to press the silent without casualties. But I had to tweak it a bit. He was a little bigger than he should be. By the way, Silent Topran, made in Germany - sort of German, but...
Now I have two lids) Maybe I’ll brew the first one later and there will be a spare one ...



And finally the differential is assembled.



Gasket just in case planted on the sealant.





Screwed the gearbox to the beam. The axle shafts were screwed onto the thread lock. Although they used to keep it that way, but I read that sometimes they are unscrewed - I decided to overdo it))
Rear beam assembly. Everything is ready - you can attach it to the body.



Immediately poured oil into the gearbox, according to the classics, for gearboxes with disc lock - Castrol 75W140. The wide gearbox includes 1.7 liters.



It is much more convenient to do this before installation than on the installed beam. Just as it is more convenient to assemble the rear suspension on the floor, and install it as a whole, than separately install the beam, levers, gearbox, etc. The only negative is the large weight of the entire assembly. The process was further complicated by the lack of an inspection hole ... Therefore, for the installation it was necessary to involve a brother and a godfather, and come up with a technology for installation in place) They dragged everything together with a wooden door under the car, put a jack in the center of the door, and together with it raised a beam holding along the edges . At the same time, the entire beam can be moved along the plane of the door - quite conveniently. 15-20 minutes and the rear beam is in place.





It remains to put the rear stabilizer and amortization. But my godfather and brother and I decided to celebrate the successful installation of the beam, we got carried away a little ...))) Therefore, the installation of shock absorbers and a stub will be next time)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_31. Bottom painting

In principle, initially I did not intend to completely paint the bottom in color - only arches and along the rapids. Actually, this is how it was painted during development, and then, when painting, it was blown in the same way, but a little more. It looked like this, and I was quite satisfied ...



But ... before applying the sealant, I carefully wrapped all the threaded studs on the body with masking tape, and screwed the bolts into the threaded holes - this can be seen in the photo. Everything would be fine, but the painter forgot to remove the adhesive tape, and so he painted everything with it ... well, that's it ... After removing the adhesive tape, all the studs remained light gray, in the ground. It was stupid to leave them like that, so we agreed that the painter would paint them for me. But, as practice has shown, it would take another month, and the car must be put on wheels. Then I didn’t want to paint with a pendant and everything that was cleaned and painted in blue dust. Therefore, I decided to tint the studs myself. I blew out zinc primer, then acrylic, then gray paint.



It seems like the norm .... it will do! ...) But the blue bottom with gray spots of different shades of sealant, zinc, primer and paint began to resemble an avatar leopard))) Looking at the beautiful chassis, I decided that the bottom should still be beautiful! ) I remembered that I had seen a "pencil" and a container with paint according to the code from a colleague in the ward. I went and ordered one for myself. They did it for me within 5 minutes. The color matched perfectly.
Individual 1991 - Pur Blau Metallic (253)



On the motor shield, the studs were carefully painted over with a pencil brush, and the bottom was blown out with one light layer of cylinders. Two were not enough, I ordered another one. It was not very convenient to do this while lying under the car, but it turned out beautifully! ;)













Now you can screw a beautiful rear suspension onto a beautiful bottom.
More on that in the next post.

P.S.
The place of welding on the steering column bracket was also tinted at the same time.


.

[The_Glory]

Build_13. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 1)

The front suspension and steering are assembled, - let's move on to the rear suspension.

ETK_33_Rear Axle

There were some problems with the differential, or rather with its cover, so more on that next time, but let's start with the section
Output Shaft
It is also a semi-axis, it is also a joint of equal angular velocities.



At first I did not plan to disassemble them, since I had no complaints about them. But looking at the very rusty ABS gear, I decided to take it apart, sand it down and paint it - maybe the ABS would suddenly stop bugging out) I changed the internal anthers a few years ago, so their covers were removed easily, but the outer covers were removed with difficulty - only after abundant dousing with grease and hard picking and so bent cover. By the way, it is not available for order at all and I have not found analogues - so you have to pick it carefully. There is still a sealing rubber ring under the cover - it is highly desirable not to tear it either, since it also does not appear in the ETC. In general, I dismantled, sanded, painted, fasteners updated with yellow zinc. I bought stainless steel band clamps.



Internal hinges



External hinges



When disassembling, I marked left / right and internal / external, so as not to confuse and assemble in the same way. Started assembly. First we put the clip on the gear, then we put them on the shaft and put the retaining ring. We insert the shaft with the gear into the body and begin to put the balls in ... but then something went wrong ...) I stuffed the sixth ball with great difficulty ... after which the hinge became a stake in a vertical position and did not move anywhere else at all! ) It turned out that you need to move not only the balls in the hinge, but also the balls in the head! ))) On the second attempt, everything worked out - the hinge began to work normally. In the photo on the right - NOT a correctly assembled hinge, on the left - a correctly assembled hinge. It can be seen that one works, and the second is jammed.



And the bottom line is that at first glance, it seems logical to set the grooves for the balls on the body and the internal gear exactly opposite each other so that the balls fit there. But due to the inclination of these grooves, this way the hinge is bluntly wedged and cannot work. It is necessary to shift the grooves by one, then they do not coincide, but for that, when the axis is tilted, they coincide and the ball fits there. And so 6 times! )
The photo shows the difference in the location of the grooves. Left is right.



Maybe I’m writing obvious things, but I’ve read a lot of reports on the bulkhead of hinges, and nowhere they write about this nuance with the displacement of the grooves ... Although, judging by the reviews, they are often assembled incorrectly, and then disassembled / assembled, until The nth build time will accidentally fail correctly! ))
Let's continue - we fill the grease, put on the boot. Just in case, for sealant. It didn’t work out for me to roll the covers on deafly, so I pulled them together with temporary bolts.



Then we put on the outer boot and its cover, and collect the balls in the same way as on the inner hinge. We lubricate. Do not forget to put a rubber ring under the cover. External covers, thanks to the groove, can be well rolled up. We tighten the clamps on the anthers. The hinges work and the axle shafts are ready for installation.



Next we move on to the beam and levers.
Rear axle beam/wheel suspension



My beam was with a welded ear, so I bought a whole one. The levers are not in perfect condition - I have already changed spring plates on them before, but for that they are even. I bought the lower jet rods at a disassembly, as mine rotted into dust. Well, all this brought to a beautiful view. Beam and arm silent blocks - SWAG.



Left-hand side



Right side



Everything is symmetrical, the same, including the ABS sensors.



By the way, I also bought the sensors fresh - again in the hope that glitches in the ABS will disappear. They even have white markings for the location of the clips. The clips are all in place - two (#17) for each lever, and one bracket (#16) on each side per beam. I didn't have one so I bought a new one.

Next section
[url=http://en.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/rear_axle/side_shaft_wheel_bearings]Rear Axle/Wheel Bearing[ /url]



Everything is simple here - the hubs were sanded and painted, everything else is new. Lock washers for nuts are original. FAG bearings - circlips and nuts included. Therefore, old rings and nuts updated with "yellow zinc" will not be useful.



Silent blocks, bearings and hubs were pressed in with a press. The silent blocks of the levers are pressed from the outer sides of the lever, and the bolts are inserted into them from the inside so that they can then be pulled out and the lever removed without removing the beams. Well, I picked it all up a little. I almost forgot to insert plugs into the levers - for some reason they are not in the ETK. By the way, it is important not to forget to fasten the brake disc shields before pressing the hub, but I will write about them separately later.



Here is the stub



All this is assembled.



I will tighten the nuts of the silent blocks of the levers and hubs after installing the beam on the car. The main thing is not to forget! ) ABS sensors will be installed along with the wiring.
We are waiting for the solution of problems with the differential one of these days and finally it will be on wheels! )

P.S.
Packets started to arrive.

[The_Glory]

Amazing build thread! I cannot wait for the finished product, E30 passion is alive!

Thanks.
Yes, many people liked this format of the assembly description ;)
I myself can't wait for the finished product :)

[will61]

Amazing build thread! I cannot wait for the finished product, E30 passion is alive!

[The_Glory]

B]Build_12. ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry (part 2) [/B]

We continue with the ETK section.
ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry

We skip the sections on the pump and hydraulics for now - we will return to them later - when the motor is already installed.
We also skip the sections on the steering column with an airbag - everything is different there, our own. For this reason, I will probably never decide to install this option...
Now let's move on to the section.
ex.



My steering column is still native, i.e. 1984, so it has some features. Firstly, the lower (No. 10) and upper (No. 11) bearings are different. The upper one is more "solid" - with a good body and protection from dirt. Although, it would seem more logical to put it the other way around - after all, the lower one is on the street, and water and dirt flies at it. Therefore, in my case it even rusted a little, but I managed to revive it.
Since 1985, the bearings are already the same - such as my lower one (No. 10) - simpler. After restyling, the upper bearing was already plastic. The beginning of the process of unification and cheapening)
Secondly, my column has a rubber o-ring (No. 12) on the shaft. After 1985 it was discontinued. Why it was there is not known ...)
1984 model steering shaft details updated with "yellow zinc":



Bottom part



The shaft appeared to be hollow. Below is a plug (No. 14) - I did not take it out. Although, at first, while the shaft was dirty, it seemed that something was stuck - I wanted to pick it out)



The upper part - you can see the difference in the bearings (in the photo I mixed up the washers - they are placed the other way around)



Parts General Forums and E30 Technical Forums are not used.
And it all goes into the steering column tube.



Next section
.



He's also a "cardan". For a rail with power steering, it is not the same as for a mechanical one. Crosses without backlash, the clutch is intact and not rigid - I left it as it is. One bolt was lost somewhere, so I replaced it with a similar one made of stainless steel. Item Forum is not used. Never met her...
As I was told, this casing was placed on right-hand drive cars to protect the clutch from the exhaust manifold.



Let's get back to the pipe.
But before you assemble the shaft into a pipe, you need to install the ignition lock housing on it.
.and start.



I cleaned the connectors of the contact group (No. 3). The body is fixed on the pipe with a disposable shear bolt (No. 5). I never had it there. It’s not really needed there, as for me, so I didn’t bother with ordering the original one, with a wait of a couple of months, but I did it myself) I just sharpened the edge of the thread on a regular bolt - the norms are fixed. Part #11 is for airbag only, parts #12-16 are not used. But I never had part number 6. I thought it was a black bezel around the core of the ignition lock, but no. This is a separate detail - a decorative ring. Ordered, when I arrive I will add a photo.



The ring (No. 6) arrived, but it turned out to be not plastic, but rubber.



We put the lock body on the pipe. We collect the shaft into the pipe - first the bottom. We put the bearing, boot, ring (groove down) and fix it with a retaining half ring (it is not broken - this is how it should be). Then the top in the sequence, as in the picture (in the photo I mixed up the washers). The upper retaining ring is convenient to snap into place with a high head, with a light blow. Don't forget to grease the bearings.
We snap the lock (by the way, it is removed in the first position of the key, when pressed with a needle through a special hole on the case), and the contact group, we fasten the sound signal contact. The steering shaft is assembled.



And now the steering column pipe
Steering column tube/fascia



The steering column is attached to the body with disposable shear bolts (No. 12). Why - I really did not understand ... It is very difficult to unscrew them. The welder did not bother and simply knocked the column out of the grooves in the body along with these bolts (more on the consequences below). I cut a slot on them, but they did not unscrew with a screwdriver. I tried to drill, but then I decided to cut off the hat with a grinder easier. The plastic bushings survived this normally. Bolts set the usual, the same size. The rest of the fasteners were updated with "yellow zinc"
Another "collective farm" is a gasket (No. 3). In the original, this is ordinary foam rubber 3-5 mm thick on self-adhesive. Available to order. Priced around $50. As for me, to put it mildly - bust! )) (There are also parts with inadequate prices in the ETC - I will write about them during assembly). And given the current situation with the timing of deliveries - generally a bad idea. In short, I cut it out of splenite, and glued it to the bracket with double-sided tape - no worse than the original. Even better - it will not absorb water and moisture, unlike the original foam rubber. Apparently, that is why the bottom of the pipe and the lower bearing were rusty for me. By the way, that's why the lower bolts were made of stainless steel.



The steering column is ready for installation. Plastic, of course, I will put later, when assembling the cabin. But it is placed before the installation of the torpedo - this is important. Otherwise, it won't fit.



We first fasten the bottom bracket, but do not tighten its clamp so that the column moves up and down - to install the cardan on the slots. We put the cardan, tighten its bolts.



Next, we attach the column from above to the body. Then tighten the bottom clamp. The column is installed.



And now about the consequences of the vandal removal of the column, by knocking it out of the grooves of the body bracket (I can’t find another explanation for this ....).



I found such a fucked up during installation .... (( The column now, of course, has a backlash .... you need to weld .... this is fucked up .... ((

The last section on steering is the most important! ))
Steering wheel



We do not consider sports wheels, M-techniques and a steering wheel with an airbag. Although, I have steering wheels in stock;)



But we're going to the base! Therefore, we put the stock original steering wheel.



True, it has already been altered a little, with an exclusive line, but nothing ... We clean and fasten the contact ring.



And install



Blue inserts on the sides of "eco-leather" are very cool in harmony with the color of the car! )

Now you can already steer! ))
(The steering wheel is temporary - for the assembly period;) )

More about the rear suspension assembly.

UPD:
The crack on the steering column bracket was successfully welded, despite my nerve cells spent on it))



The decorative ring of the ignition lock, which I wrote about above, has arrived. It was not plastic, but rubber.



In the photo above, I tried it on the castle - it fits)