E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_23. ETK_35_Pedal control

As I already wrote in the previous section, the vacuum brake booster is attached to the engine shield together with the pedal assembly. Therefore, we proceed to the next section of ETC:
Pedal control

It is more convenient to install the accelerator pedal first, and then the pedal unit. Therefore, we start with this unit.
Accelerator pedal drive/cable LR


Accelerator pedal details.


Details #3, 18, 19 are not used.
I didn't have the locking bracket Special at all, so I bought a new one, and also bought new rubber bushings #11, 13 for the spring, because the old ones were rusted and fell apart. Everything else was simply cleaned and painted.
The number of rubber bushings is not correctly indicated in the ETK - you need one of each. They differ in width. Wide No. 11 (35 31 1 113 725) is placed on the accelerator pedal lever, and narrow No. 13 (35 41 1 113 728) is placed on the pedal assembly.


For some reason, I forgot to remove plastic bushings Visitor Messages and rubber stop #10 for the pedal lever before painting. Therefore, I had to clean them well from the paint. But they were preserved in good condition.


Details of the cable assembly


For some reason, I also forgot to unscrew the stop of the accelerator pedal before painting, although I tried later, but could not. I didn't want to break the bolt, so I left it as is and painted it.


By the way, about the stops - as it turned out, there are two more, the existence of which I had no idea. In the photo below, the places of their installation are shown by red arrows. I have already said about the upper one - it is a rubber stop (35 41 1 158 149) of the accelerator pedal lever, which I had not noticed before under the paint. And the lower one is the stop of the clutch pedal - about it in the next subsection.


The assembly is very simple - we insert the bushings into the brackets, lubricate them with silicone grease, insert the lever and lock it. We fix the pedal in the bracket on the bottom. By the way, this is a "weak" point of the E30 - water from wet shoes constantly flows down the pedal onto this bracket and it rusts very badly. I had a welder make it anew. Therefore, just in case, I filled it with anti-rust. Another point - the pedals and brackets are different before restyling and after restyling.
Next, we connect the pedal to the lever, but we do not put the locking bracket yet - so that we do not have to remove it again when installing the noise insulation and the interior carpet. We insert a spring with a rubber insert No. 11 and a cable with a rubber insert No. 9 into the lever. We put the same stops that I mentioned above.


We lead the cable through the motor shield, and fix it in the hole with latches.


Next, we proceed to the installation of the pedal assembly.
Pedal/stop light switch


Details of the pedal unit.


The mounting is galvanized, the pedals are painted, everything is cleaned.
I cut gasket Forum (35 11 1 150 370) from splenium, although it is available to order and is not expensive, but in the original it is made of foam. In my opinion, in this place (as well as the steering column gasket), splenum fits much better - it does not absorb moisture, which can provoke corrosion.
Pedal bushings No. 9 (35 21 1 109 541) are missing from the photo. Actually, they are there, I just didn't remove them from the pedals.


They sit there very tightly, there are no signs of wear and play, so I decided not to touch them so as not to break them, because new ones are unreasonably expensive. So I painted it.


Rubber bushings CSS Examples and Regional Forums under the springs are the same as on the accelerator pedal. Their number is also incorrectly indicated here in the ETK. Wide No. 18 (35 31 1 113 725) requires one, and narrow No. 12 (35 41 1 113 728) requires two. The wide one is placed on the clutch pedal, and the narrow ones on the bracket of the pedal unit (brake pedal) and on the body bracket of the steering column (clutch pedal).
In total, 35 31 1 113 725 - 2 pieces, 35 41 1 113 728 - 3 pieces are needed for the car.


Rubber pads on pedals Private Messages and General Forums are the same - 35 21 1 108 634.
I bought new ones, for beauty, although mine were still more or less normal. By the way, there are inexpensive analogs, but judging by the reviews, they wear out very quickly.


Parts No. 32 and No. 34 are used only if cruise control is installed on the car - this is its switch with a bracket. There will be a separate section about cruise control, but it is more convenient to screw this switch now than later to an already installed pedal unit.

Part No. 31 (35 21 1 155 135) is a spacer used only on all-wheel drive restyled E30s. I already wrote about it last time - it is needed for the "bolt-on" installation of the double vacuum brake booster from the E32/E34 on the E30.








I already mentioned the stop of the clutch pedal. I saw a bushing on the engine shield with a broken bolt in it, but I didn't even know there was supposed to be a stop as it was broken under the carpet. But after seeing it in ETK, I ordered it. It consists of two parts - a plastic screw Members Rides (35 31 1 152 237) and a rubber pad General Discussion (35 31 1 153 896) on it.




The emphasis is on assembly.




He began to look for where it was placed and took a closer look at the sleeve. Under the paint and sealant, it turned out not to be a bolt that was broken, but a plastic stop screw.


It was easily drilled out, and the stop fell into place.

On the diagram in the ETK, two parts that were installed by me are missing - plastic covers of the head of the axial bolt of the pedals.


Maybe they shouldn't be there, but I saw them in a photo on the Internet, so I left them. They perform their decorative function.

But I don't have detail No. 22. This is some kind of additional spring on the clutch pedal. It is not on all E30s, and it probably depends on the configuration or year of production - I don't know for sure. I have a clutch master cylinder ring instead - it is there in the photo.

So, we assemble the pedal unit according to the ETK scheme.


Do not forget to put a splenic pad. And the place for the stop of the clutch pedal is already ready.


We fasten 4 nuts to the vacuum brake amplifier, and 2 bolts from above to the steering column bracket.
We attach a spring with a rubber sleeve from the clutch pedal to the same bracket.
We fix the rod of the vacuum brake amplifier on the brake pedal. We hook the spring of the brake pedal without a rubber sleeve to the rod bolt.
We hook the spring of the accelerator pedal with a rubber sleeve to the bracket of the pedal assembly.
We screw in the stop for the clutch pedal.


The pedal assembly is installed.


It remains to screw the clutch master cylinder to it, but more on that in the appropriate section.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_22. ETK_34_ Brake mechanisms (part 2)

After installing noise insulation, you can install brake pipes and the entire brake system.

I bought all new clips, rubber plugs and fasteners for this.


New steel brake tubes with a polymer coating - the front ones are original, and the rear ones are an absolutely exact analogue of the Polish manufacturer WP. The thread on all tubes is M10, and the length of each is indicated in the ETK.


A set of reinforced brake hoses is also from the Polish manufacturer PHU Donocik Racing.
You also need a special key for bending pipes - without it, it would be difficult to bend steel pipes.




So, back to this section.

ЕТК_34_Тормозные механимы

In the first part, I already wrote about the installation of the hand brake, and in the second part, we will talk about the tubes and the hydraulic drive of the brakes for cars equipped with rear disc brakes and the ABS system.

Let's start with the front.

Brake pipe front


Front tubes:


Clip Visitor Messages in the diagram is no longer available to order, so I replaced it with a similar hose clip. I think it will be fine.

You need two hose clamps Forum for the front tubes, but you need 10 of them in total for the car - just like in the photo, there are 10 of them in the package.


The right front tube is fixed with three clips No. 6, which at the same time are the fastening of the sound insulation of the motor shield - I already wrote about this recently.




The tube exits into the arch through the rubber insert No. 3.


And it is fixed with a clamp to hose Forum


The same is true on the left side.

I fixed the left tube together with the right one with a Visitor Messages clip on the edge of the support. I'm not 100% sure that this was the case from the factory, but I can't see any other place for this clip.




Both front pipes go to the place of installation of the ABS hydraulic unit.


The rear pipes had to be bent into place, so for this, a vacuum booster with a brake master cylinder and an ABS hydraulic unit must first be installed.
Let's start with the ABS hydraulic unit.

ECU antiblock system


All brackets and bolts were galvanized, the body was cleaned and painted. The cover was painted by a specialist with texture paint for plastic - I liked the result.


I cleaned and treated the contacts of both relays with a contact spray, assembled the block, installed the fasteners.


The ABS hydroblock is ready for installation.





We screw the fasteners to the ABS electronic unit.




We install the ABS relay in place.



Clean contacts, ready to install. But after laying all the wiring.


We put the rubber cushions of the hydroblock and the "mass" bolt G104.


Insert the third pillow into the groove and fasten it. We also screw in the "mass" wire.


The ABS hydroblock is installed.

Next - a vacuum brake amplifier. I have written about him before. I was lucky enough to find a twin amp from an E30 325ix that becomes a bolt-on. But during the installation, some nuances were revealed - more on them later.

Vacuum brake booster


Parts #7, 16, 17, 20 are not used.
The diagram shows a normal amplifier, so the photo below has parts that are not on the diagram. Namely - the original factory transition spacer with a gasket, thanks to which the double amplifier from the E32/E34 becomes a bolt-on E30.


Spacer from E30 325ix (35 21 1 155 135)


Another part missing from the diagram is the clip-bracket for the fuel hose (13 31 1 714 455). It's not relevant to this section, but it screws into the vacuum booster, so it's here.


Part No. 2 is an air filter that is no longer available for ordering. Judging by its remains, it is an ordinary paralon. I cut it according to the dimensions taken.


Rubber parts.


Double vacuum brake booster assembly.


I put the spacer on the thread sealant - that's how it was from the factory.


Next is the master brake cylinder.

Главный тормозной цилиндр/бахок




The brake master cylinder for the dual vacuum booster is different from the normal one. That is why detail No. 3 is missing in it. Also, the cover may not fit the wiring of the brake fluid level sensor. There are different connectors, but the covers can be replaced with each other. We install the tank and the lid - everything is simple.


It remains to screw the cylinder to the amplifier. Do not forget to put a new rubber ring between them.


We also do not forget about the bracket for the fuel hose - it can be seen in the photo.


Ready to install.


Of course, the vacuum amplifier is attached to the body together with the pedal unit, but there will be a separate section about it.
The amplifier is installed.




The next photo shows the same nuance that I wrote about at the beginning.


The double amplifier has a greater thickness than the usual one, in addition, thanks to the spacer, it has shifted significantly forward. And now, obviously, there will be some difficulties when installing the power steering tank - it will no longer fit into its place. It will be necessary to come up with something to fix it in place. But we will solve problems as they arise. Then we'll see...

And now that the ABS hydraulic unit and brake master cylinder are installed, you can bend and fit the brake pipes under them.
We start with the tubes of the ABS hydraulic block.

Brake pipe c ABS Pd


I kept my ABS pipes, they were in good condition. Just cleaned and painted them.


I ordered new plastic tube holders, but then it turned out that I had them all, so they did not fit.




We fit the tubes and connect the master brake cylinder to the ABS hydraulic unit.

On the cylinder, the front fitting is the outlet for the front brakes, the rear fitting is for the rear brakes.

The fittings on the ABS hydraulic unit have the following markings:
V - front entrance
H - rear entrance
l - exit in front of the left
r - exit in front of the right
h - rear exit

We screw the tubes and align them with plastic holders.




An analogue of the front tube holder that I mentioned earlier.


ABS tubes are installed.

It remains to install the rear tubes.

Brake drive pipe Zd


Parts Visitor Messages and Private Messages are not used. Judging by ETK, they are intended for machines with a maximum load of more than 1700 kg. I think we are talking about towing a large trailer, or carriage.
Brake force regulator No. 7 (34 34 1 156 716)

is placed after the master brake cylinder, and spacer No. 8 (34 32 1 156 869)

is attached instead of the usual brake force regulator No. 5 (34 33 1 152 494)


So, in my case, the usual brake force regulator is installed.
Rear tubes:


Clip Other Forums (34 32 1 158 467) on the diagram - I still did not understand where it can be placed. It is indicated that she is alone. But I had 5 clips on the bottom in the back. So I ordered it. But they did not fit at all in terms of fastening. It's good that my old clips remained intact - I put them in so that I wouldn't have to wait a few more weeks.
Clip Groups (34 30 1 161 567) is no longer available for ordering, but there is a substitute (34 32 6 855 500) - suitable. Only 4 pieces are needed, two for each rear lever.
No. 2 hose clamps are required for the rear tubes in total seven pieces.

Let's start with the installation of the brake force regulator. The bend of the tube here had to be made smaller. Then I will show why.


The brake pipe is laid along the bottom parallel to the fuel pipes and fastened together with them.
This mount is located in the fuel line section. Therefore, I will write about him later.


It's good that even though the fuel pipes are already bent from the factory, I bent the brake pipe along them. I will say that it is not very convenient to bend a 3-meter steel tube while lying under the car. Especially over the rear beam. By the way, this is where the clips that the new ones did not fit are put. The photo shows the old ones.






And here are the consequences of bending the tube, which I wrote about at the beginning. I made a very large bend on the brake force regulator and missed several centimeters of the tube to where the tee mounts. In addition, the tube itself was 3 cm shorter than the original. There was no desire to straighten and rebend the entire steel tube. I also didn't want to pass the clip over a shorter distance, so I made an extension bracket for attaching the tee. A little collective farm, but neat as it is)))


Further, from the tee to the left and right sides.


Left hose


Left lever - two clips.


The left hose is on the lever


Right hose


Right lever - two clips.


The right hose on the lever


So, all tubes and hydraulic brake actuator for cars equipped with rear disc brakes and ABS are installed.
It remains to install only the brake calipers. But first they need to be brought into proper shape. Therefore, I will write about it later, in the third part of this chapter.

[The_Glory]

Next, we go to the section Stoppers/plugs



To finish insulating the bottom, we will first deal with its plugs. Here they are:



Diagram No. 18 (51 71 1 972 464) is a plug for the holes in the spars and the bottom. But this number has different plugs - rubber, metal with sealant, and plastic. Apparently, they changed with the years of release. I had the whole team :) The price of a new plug is $30 - a bit too much for me. That's why I didn't start ordering all the same new ones, but put rubber ones on the left and plastic ones on the right. In my opinion, rubber ones are better. And metal ones with a sealant are disposable, or they need a new sealant. There should be 4 plugs on each side. But on the left, one middle one is welded on the spar, and on the right, the lateral one is welded in the bottom. That's why I have three of them, but the cutouts in the insulation are made for all plugs.
There are two plugs in the transverse beams for fastening the seats. I did not find them at all in ETK, so I also put the old ones.
By the way, I pre-treat all holes with wax.

Left side.





Right side. A rectangular cutout in the insulation is provided for fastening the accelerator pedal on right-hand drive cars.





On the right, there is another plug on the engine shield near the gearbox tunnel - you can see it in the photo. According to ETK, it has a diameter of 35 mm, but in fact there is a hole of 20 mm. I had it closed with a metal plug for sealing. But she rotted. Therefore, I closed it with a suitable size plastic plug No. 9 (51 71 1 801 066).

In the diagram, part No. 5 (41 12 8 200 462) is a metal plug for the large holes in the rear part of the bottom. For me, these holes were simply welded and smeared with sealant. That's why I don't have these plugs.





Now some more general information on the stubs I found.



A large shield with a gasket and clips is a cover over the fuel tank (on the diagram #1...4).



Plastic plug for spars 52 mm - on scheme No. 18 (51 71 1 972 464)


Plugs 14 mm below the middle of the thresholds (2 pcs.), and in the upper supports of the rear springs (2 pcs.)


Plugs 6.9 mm on the battery shelf (2 pcs.)


Plugs 12 mm on the sides in the thresholds in front of the rear arch (2 pcs.)


Plug 20 mm No. 9 (51 71 1 801 066) in door sills, rear shelf, trunk floor, etc. (~20 pieces)


I will add information about other plugs during the assembly process in the relevant sections of the ETK.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_21. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 1) Soundproofing

Further assembly will be in the ETK section ЕТК_31_Оснащение кузова

I will start almost from the very end of this section - Soundproofing



This includes vibration isolation and noise isolation of the cabin. In fact, it had to be done even earlier, since at the factory the vibration insulation was glued before the body was painted, and the noise insulation was installed before the steering column was installed. I deliberately glued the vibration insulation after painting - it seems to me that this way the metal of the bottom will be better protected from corrosion under it. And the steering column had to be installed earlier so that the car could be transported to the painter. And anyway, the previous owner cut the sound insulation so that it could be removed without removing the steering column. So, I installed it like that, then glued it. But it is correct to install the sound insulation of the motor shield and torpedo BEFORE installing the steering column and the cardan rail.
I started with vibration isolation of the bottom. In the diagram, this is part No. 13 (51 48 8 165 271) - it is a sheet 1160X700MM. It can be ordered in the original, but its price is too high, in my opinion. Therefore, I bought a similar material and much cheaper - StP Vizomat 3.5 mm, 5 sheets 530x750 mm.



You also need a special roller for gluing sheets and an industrial fan heater for heating. Cleaned and degreased the surfaces.











In advance, based on photos on the Internet and prints of old vibration insulation, I drew and printed paper templates.





After several try-ons and adjustments, I received the exact patterns of the patterns, as it was at the factory. Photos of this process and templates are lost somewhere, but I will post the template files in .pdf format later.
Next, heat the pattern with a fan heater and tightly roll it with a roller. Photo of the finished result.
Right side:





Rear seat:



Left side:





General appearance:



By the way, does anyone know why the insulation in the rear part was so strangely glued from the factory? It is not symmetrical, but the left is shifted forward, and the right is shifted back.
As you can see, factory vibration insulation remained on the gearbox tunnel, which was painted over.



For a more aesthetic look, I decided to make it black as well. It is very difficult to wash off the paint, so I just painted it black and then sanded it down. The same texture turned out - it looks much more beautiful this way.













The vibration isolation of all doors and the spare wheel niche remained factory. It is in excellent condition.


Next, we proceed to sound insulation of the rear roof racks - No. 7 on the diagram. They are no longer available to order, so I selected the most similar material for them in the "car audio" store. Based on the old prints, I made a template and cut it out.





By the way, the racks of 4-door cars are similar to 2-door cars, as they also have cutouts for installing side window handles that open.



Prepared the surface and glued.









Sound insulation of the roof No. 3 and No. 4 is used only on cars without a sunroof, so we skip it. For cars with a sunroof, it is different, and will be shown in the corresponding section on the sunroof.

At this point, we complete the insulation that is glued, and move on to the insulation that is attached with various clips. In the diagram, this is part #1, consisting of three parts (left 51 48 1 916 443, right 51 48 1 962 048, middle 51 48 1 916 442) and #2(51 48 1 906 393).
For convenience, I made a table on their fastening with the numbers and number of clips, since it is not specified in the ETK.



I also added the clips and nuts on the motor shield cover to the table.
I do not pretend to be the truth, I did it simply according to logic - where there is wiring, I put it with lugs where there is no wiring, ordinary ones. Although clips and nuts are interchangeable. I replaced a few if available, it is not critical. I did not use nuts #10 for a screwdriver, as they are then very difficult to unscrew.
On most cars, this insulation has long since turned to ash, or has been replaced with modern materials. But I was lucky to find it in pretty good condition. And the left and right parts are completely new.









Let's start with the salon. I will repeat again - IMPORTANT - sound insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column and hood cable. Otherwise, it will have to be cut. I did not take this into account, so I had to cut it, and then sew it to the right of the column, and remove the cable.



The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
It will also be fixed with the glove box bar on the bottom by three studs when it is installed.



Installed



Next, we move to the engine compartment.
The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the hood cable. I had to remove it.
The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the battery cable. I did everything right here.

The middle part - here you can see where the clips are placed.
In the upper part, three clips for the brake tube are placed - I will write about this later in the corresponding section.



There are even more nuances here - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column with cardan shaft, vacuum brake booster, fuel, brake pipes, clutch hoses and interior heater radiator hoses.



Installed.



There are two more details on the diagram - No. 5 and No. 6. This is sound insulation of the floor. On pre-restyling cars, it was separate from the carpet. I doubt that I will find it in better condition than mine, so I will restore mine to normal condition. I will install it after all the wiring is laid, so I will write about it later.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_20. Electroplating and painting of parts

Again, I had to re-prepare the parts for electroplating, as during this time they were covered with surface rust.



And also prepared the next part of parts for galvanizing.





I painted a few more details. Materials and technology are the same as before.









I tried to paint plastic with special materials for it.



I almost forgot to write about what I managed to do even before the start of the war - vibration and noise insulation. About that next time.

[The_Glory]

War.

It seems that everything is against me finishing this restoration... I just started doing something - the damned Rashists started a war! I only had time to glue the vibration insulation, install the noise insulation, and started laying the brake pipes. and prepared the details for electroplating.







In the first days of the war, I managed to receive a parcel with new bags.



But again it was not time to assemble the car... I took the family further from Kyiv, and returned to meet the shitty "rashists". When the rockets started falling very close to the house, I had to use the garage in the basement as a "bomb shelter", and the "thirty" as a "safe" - I moved more or less valuable things and warm clothes there.





So the car stood again for almost half a year...
But in the summer I decided that war is war, and something must be done. So, there is some progress on the build, but then there was no time (or desire) to write about it. Therefore, I will write only now.

[The_Glory]

So sorry about your oldest daughter!

I'm not a father so i can't feel anything close to what you feel but its good you found strength in memory to finish the project !

I had blast reading everything , its amazing how rotten the car was! and how good it turned

can't wait for you to keep updating the thread ! ahah

Thank you very much for your words of support

[QuiqueUy]

So sorry about your oldest daughter!

I'm not a father so i can't feel anything close to what you feel but its good you found strength in memory to finish the project !

I had blast reading everything , its amazing how rotten the car was! and how good it turned

can't wait for you to keep updating the thread ! ahah

[The_Glory]

Cup "Machine of the Day" 02.01.2022 and "rarities"

Wow!
Four years ago, I first got to the polls - completely by accident, but missed them. I learned that I took second place the very next day. And so history repeated itself. Yesterday, for the second time, I again accidentally, without any "promotions" and "races" got into the elections, and again missed them for the second time, as I went to the village to visit relatives for the New Year's weekend, and did not go to the Internet. But this time, he won. Heard about it from friends on the phone. Very unexpected and very nice! Thank you all for your support and choice. I really appreciate it, especially now. Now the motivation to assemble the car will be even greater.
THANKS.



I was never interested in likes, ratings and other garbage. Never aspired to get into the elections. Maybe that's why I missed them for the second time. But the result still shows that the car is interesting, and the blog is useful to people. This is more important than the cup, as for me.
But still, it's nice to get it. Once again, thank you all for your support in the elections, and for your support in general...



Thanks to those who read and write on my blog, I hope you find something new, interesting and useful there. I will try to keep it that way.



Good luck and victories to all!

And here came my cup "Machine of the Day" 01/02/2022[/URL].



Immediately opened to see - it's really big! I even imagined it much smaller in size ...









I put it on a shelf in the garage. By the way, the stickers were included.



Well, at the same time, I'll boast - the second batch of "rarities" arrived, which I really lacked for the "full".

Rear power windows - I wanted them for a very long time, but did not come across. And here suddenly, there were several options at once. I bought separate mechanisms with cut wiring. I already have all the wiring for four power windows, I wrote about this last time. Power windows are "ideologically" correct for pre-restyling - "rope", like my front ones.



Then I bought a set of original buttons for them - four main backlit buttons (two in the console, and two in the rear doors), a rear window lock, and a common automatic fuse (it will be a spare).



I also bought green glass before restyling in the rear right door - now, finally, I will have all green windows and all power windows.

The next rarity is quite rare, I was looking for the same thing for a very long time - the lining of the trunk lid. Although, they sell fiberglass replicas, but they are so crooked and dumb that I did not dare to buy one. And here we were lucky again - the original is in excellent condition, and is also nearby.





Now I don’t know what to do with a large tool box ... Should I try to fit it on this lining, or not .... Especially since my usual box is fully equipped with tools, and the large one is completely empty ... We will see .. .

And another rare nishtyak that I already had, but could not pass by. Hatch fairing.



I already had it installed - a branded "aftermarket" from ClimAir. And this one is exactly the same, I think that it is from the same manufacturer, but with one difference - instead of the drawn ClimAir logo, it has the BMW logo stamped on it. Those. This is exactly the original option from the factory equipment. So it will be more correct.



Last time I mentioned TRX "bottle caps" and tires for them. I bought a set of caps for them.



Emblems, of course, I will buy new ones. One cap is bent - I'm looking for another even one.

Another small "rarity" is a new screen for the radio "Business RDS". Now she will have a great sound and look.

Everything seems to be ... I'm waiting for the next batch of new bags to arrive, and I will continue to assemble. Soon there will be entries on the assembly itself.
Further already in real time, so the recordings will be much less frequent.

[The_Glory]

Build_19. Air conditioning kit. Bought. (part 1)

So, as I mentioned in the last post, another idiot's dream came true! I bought an air conditioner, which I dreamed about almost from the moment I bought the car ... Otherwise, the equipment is almost "full", but there is no air conditioner ... It's not serious (s). I bought it not expensive, obviously not working, - for restoration. So the story promises to be long and interesting. In the first part, I'll just show what exactly I bought, and then we'll sort it out and restore it...
I would be grateful for tips and advice.
Actually, here it is, happiness in a box!



And inside the box



The set seems to be complete, but with big and different nuances...



Heater with evaporator,



One recirculation damper, of course, was already broken and repaired with improvised collective farm rivets, and it is unlikely that it could work like that.

The tubes are all intact, but need to be cleaned and galvanized. The body rubber of the tubes was filled with a dull body sealant, it was hardly cleaned out.



Fasteners tubes need almost all new.



Pressure sensor with collective farm "adapters / plugs", performance is unknown ...



Posting with minimal casualties, we can say that the whole. As it turned out, it is for restyling - you will need to somehow combine the heater connector with my pre-rest wiring ...
A couple of hours with ETM diagrams and a tester - and everything seems to be clear, and not as scary as everyone usually writes ...



The capacitor looks intact, the fan too, but with a broken low-speed resistor.
The dehumidifier, of course, needs a new one.
The compressor with fasteners, the button and the temperature sensor arrived a little later, so they are not in the photo. More on that below.
According to legend, many years ago, the entire kit was removed from the car from the M20 at the well-known in narrow circles in Odessa, disassembly of the E30, and in the same place, it was installed to the client along with the M42. For some reason, it was not possible to start it, and the car drove for several years with a non-working air conditioner, until the consequences of "collective farming" came ... How it was installed on the M42, and the consequences of this, in the photo below.



The compressor with a bracket for the M20, apparently, didn’t really want to get on the M42, but the grinder and welding work wonders! The bracket was slightly filed, slightly bored, bushings were put in, a metal adapter plate was made to it, and thus, it was fitted onto the M42!



But, apparently, the calculation was not very accurate, if it was at all, and something went wrong - skewed, and the ears of the compressor were torn out ...



So the car and went until completely rotted, and was bought as a donor. Then she stood like that for a few more years with my friend, until I bought this, that's all ...
Fortunately, I quickly found and bought a whole compressor with a whole set of fasteners for the M20. But there is a moment - the first one was BOSCH and there is only one wire on its connector, and the second one is like SEIKO, and there are three wires.



Are they compatible and interchangeable at all?

I forgot one more unpleasant moment - in addition, the valiant delivery service during transportation broke the lower part of the heater housing and the ear of the upper damper ... damn. I was already thinking of sculpting something from a conventional heater ... but again I was lucky - purely by chance, thanks to a friend, another heater case with an evaporator was inexpensively found, and most importantly - with whole dampers !!



Just in case, I bought another fan, with a whole resistor - but earlier, judging by the impeller and connector, - for before restyling.



I wanted to sort it out, since it worked very noisily, I took it apart, but the impeller doesn’t even want to be removed, I’m afraid to break it ...
Then another one turned up, the same, but again, with a broken resistor, for that with the right connector - I bought it just in case.



And now - "we have what we have!"
Two heaters, two evaporators, two compressors, three fans...
And it is not yet known whether there will be any sense from all this rubbish ... I hope that it will.

P.S.
Even I got too lazy to write ... I lost the habit of something ... There is already something to talk about, but so far there is no time and desire ... But soon there will be news, the assembly process is going little by little ... In the meantime, "preview" .

I bought bags for the fuel system:





All hoses, plastic tubes, stainless fasteners:



I bought bags for the brake system:



All pipes are steel, as expected.



Reinforced hoses are still going.

There is also progress in vibration and sound insulation - it seems to have turned out not bad.
But for today, navergoe, everything.

[The_Glory]

Club calendar 2022 and "rarities"

Traditional club calendar entry.
This year I did not take any part either in its creation or in the competition. Accordingly, my car is not there, but the calendar turned out, as always, beautiful. Thanks guys.



During this year, I did nothing with the car, but the habit of monitoring flea markets remained - at least to distract myself with something ... Therefore, I did buy a few rarities during this time. There are no photos, I just folded them in the garage.
Actually, this is wiring for four power windows, a rear seat with an armrest (for constriction into a "goose foot"), a mirror with lamps in excellent condition, a whole plastic of motor wiring, a green rear window (as it turned out later with a broken heating terminal).

But over the past two months, as he began to do something with the car, as they say, it just flooded into rarities!
The first is a set of Michelin TRX tires - for more than a year I watched this announcement, purely out of interest, since the price was like on eBay, and at that price they were not interesting to me. But apparently no one wanted to buy it, and when the price was reduced to a reasonable one (as for me), I decided to pick it up, in a set with my "metric" "bottle caps", which a friend gave me a few years ago. It’s good that I didn’t make tables out of these wheels, or some other crap, as I was going to - now there will be a set of rare wheels.



Vryat I will ride them, but as a rarity for photo shoots - super. I still need to buy caps for them and paint them. But more on that later and separately.

Startec - how much in this sound ... (c) I dreamed about them since I bought the E30, but I was greedy to pay $ 300 for them thirteen years ago ... And now, when the prices for them on eBay have become within 800-1200 $, and we have about the same as on eBay, I understood, and resigned myself to the fact that I will never have Startec ... I started looking at replicas, transparent glasses on eBay ... then I completely forgot, so as brought in a great view of their stock lights. But suddenly, by chance, I saw Startec for sale at a good price, albeit with minor jambs. And now they almost never meet without jambs. I decided that I should take it, otherwise I really will never have them. And here they are with me.



Which I am very happy about. Later I will bring beauty, polish, and it will be super. Special thanks to my friends for their assistance, and, in fact, for the lights and the organization of delivery.

Another old dream. I don’t want to dismantle the entire interior again later, and without air conditioning - this is not a “full”. Therefore, I bought an air conditioner kit - it should arrive soon. On occasion, the other day I bought another fan for it - it will be in reserve.

Recently I saw aluminum spacers for sale - a Hartge replica and an Eibach original. My homemade spacer, although it looks pretty decent, but it's not so cool. The original, of course, is more expensive, but I decided that it would be logical to put an Eibach spacer to the Eibach springs.



You also need to bring beauty and polish.

Well, again, on occasion, one of these days a set of information stickers and a new clean service book should arrive - although they are replicas, they are also a kind of fetish.

Look like that's it...
Well, according to the assembly, "the ice has broken" (c) But more on that later, and separately.

[The_Glory]

Build_18. Electroplating and painting parts

I didn’t do anything with the car for the whole of 2021... Another batch of parts and fasteners lay in the garage all this time, which caused surface rust to appear on the bare metal. Therefore, I had to sandblast and clean everything again.
Various brackets:


Fasteners for them, and not only - several of these "sets":



And electroplating - galvanization with passivation - "yellow zinc".





Many of the details didn't look great. Some, like this:



By the way, I was lucky to find this bracket in good condition. Mine completely rotted away.
Some parts looked better, some even worse. Therefore, I collected all the details that need to be painted, and sanded. This time I used abrasive powder instead of sand - a good thing. He also used a pistol with a "closed cycle" - i.e. the powder is poured down into a pile, and from there, again sucked into the gun - also very convenient. Plus, now there is a normal electric hood - it's much more pleasant to work with sandblasting.







I have already mentioned that my tank was completely rotten along the joint, and I glued it right on the road several times with "cold welding" (by the way, it holds well). I was lucky to buy a great whole tank.





But under the fixing mortgages, rust has also begun to appear on it. Therefore, I removed the factory preservative, and sanded it locally at the junction and near the tube. Found some markings.





The cleaned parts that are placed under the bottom are covered with zinc primer. And I prepared such a set of pieces of iron for painting:



A set of materials and tools - APP 2-component epoxy primer, 2-component paint, black gloss.



I will say right away - the painter from me is not very good. It seems that it’s not the first time I’ve been painting, but it doesn’t work out without smudges. Although, the ground is cool - this time it lay perfectly. But the paint, with smudges, in places, even drops dripped ... I don’t know what it is ... Well, something like that ... for such pieces of iron, the norms.
We hang "garlands" of pieces of iron.



Two coats of 2K epoxy primer.



Tank, neck, and other parts that are placed under the bottom covered in three layers of black anti-gravel.





And the final painting in black gloss with 2-component paint in 1.5-2 layers.



Buck, just like new turned out.





The drain plug from the factory was covered with some kind of protective coating, so I didn’t touch it - I blew it out.



The same thing with the S-shaped tube - I didn’t unscrew it, sanded it off, coated the nuts with zinc, rubbed the copper lightly, and blew on top of it in three layers of transparent varnish.



A few details will still need to be painted silver on top, for order.
By the way, for convenience, I made such a list of parts, and their colors according to the factory.



I don’t pretend to be true - when compiling, I used the ETK and a photo of new original parts on the internet. Some parts were found in two color options. Maybe someone will come in handy.

[The_Glory]

Plans…

Man proposes, but God disposes. (c)

Almost a year has passed since the last entry ... Almost a year ago, a terrible event happened in my life, after which I lost interest in the car, and not only in the car ... There were thoughts to sell everything as it is ...

I don’t know why, but in my life almost nothing and never goes the way I plan ... So last year I planned to assemble a car by the end of October - for the birthday of my eldest daughter, and give her a gift for her anniversary. Did not work out. Then, after the New Year, I promised her that I would soon collect "thirty". I wanted to give her a surprise gift at the E30 festival. She loved our "thirty" very much and dreamed of driving it ... But God judged otherwise ... Soon there will be a year, as Yulia is gone ... Time goes by, but it does not get easier ... and, probably, it will never be . During this time, I did fulfill everything that I promised Yulia, but I did not have time then. I don't know if that made sense now...but I did. In addition to his last promise - the assembly of the "thirty". And this year, on her birthday, I sat and thought about a lot of things, remembered a lot of things .... including this promise of mine. On that day, I firmly decided that I would not sell anything, and I would still finish assembling it - in memory of my Yulia. My wife and youngest daughter also support me in this. The youngest daughter has already asked several times why I do not finish the assembly of the "thirty". She also loves and waits for her. In the summer, she even secretly took her girlfriends to the garage, showed them. I left this picture:



Previously, I would have scolded, but now it was even nice.
The car was covered with a thick layer of dust - it's been standing like that for almost a year ...







But over the past month and a half, I have already begun to do at least something - I bought a lot of things, prepared them. I'll wash it over the weekend and continue assembling. No more plans - how will it go ... Then only assembly notes.

PS
Yes, - now the machine will have a new name - Shadow of Intelligence




.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_34. BBS body kit painting

Now, everything is already painted! The body kit was painted, of course, not in a week. ) But I was not in a hurry, because there was something to do, especially since New Year's holidays and all that. And the day before yesterday, finally, he took everything. Although, not all - the rapids did not fit. I didn’t want to scratch or bend them at all, so I’ll have to go for them again one of these days.







Overlays on doors, "eyelashes" and "sickles".



Haven’t decided yet what is better to glue the lining - body, or glass sealant? If someone glued something similar, I would be grateful for feedback or recommendations.

The Breyton wing is now, as it should be, without an additional brake light.



Mirrors and small things in the box - headlight rings, grille rims, tow hook cover, fender flares and rear arches.



Spoiler - again, it has been proven once again - rubber can be well painted if you know how and how - the spoiler bends, presses in with your fingers, and does not crack at the same time.



Back apron.



I forgot to take a picture of the front one, because I brought it to the attic so as not to scratch it. Because I will put it last.
One of these days I will buy stainless steel screws, sealant, and it will be possible to start putting the body kit so that it does not lie "underfoot". The main thing is that frosts -20 do not hit again ... And then adjust the gaps.
For painting - it will still be necessary, after installing all the body parts, to paint over the fasteners, and the sealant on the front fenders, as it was at the factory, and tint the trunk lid from the inside. And then the final polishing... but I don't know exactly when it will be...

[The_Glory]

Build_17. Body wiring (part 1)

For a number of reasons, my assembly stopped a little .... and all these holidays and all that ...) But the process, albeit more slowly, is still going on. In order not to waste time at all, I decided to do wiring - this does not require a lot of money, but it requires a lot of time. I like to tinker with wiring), so I decided to take it thoroughly. As long as there is free access to all connectors and wires, I will do what I haven’t done before, finish what I haven’t done before, and redo what I did before! )) In general - a complete revision and upgrade. For a long time I have had such an idea - to use all the connectors in the wiring - "full" should be everywhere! )) I have been doing this for several weeks now on quiet winter evenings. I have not yet reached the final result, but there is already an intermediate one. Therefore, the wiring will be a "miniseries" in several parts. So, part one - Body wiring.
The wiring has been lying in a cardboard box in a "ball" for the third year already, and it is obvious that in order to work with it, it needs to be untangled and laid out. There is no room for this in the garage. I wanted to lay it out in the workshop on the floor, but there is sand. He spread the film and began to lay it out. But then even I thought that it would drag on for more than one day, and during this time you need to walk here - someone will definitely trample some kind of connector. And I got a great idea - to make a special stand! ) For this, the old chain-link mesh was perfect - and it was just enough in length.



By the way, my help dog spends these winter evenings in the garage with me)))
I unraveled and hung out the body wiring, including the wiring for the power windows and the central lock.





I examined it, and came to the conclusion that it was necessary to unwind it all, inspect it and rewind it, because even though it all worked, in some places the condition was far from ideal. For example, wiring to the fuel pump:



Power window wiring with some incomprehensible knots and bows.



The long-suffering connector of the driver's door with twists and jumpers:



The passenger door connector seems to look a little better.



The wiring under the dashboard I initially was laid wrong. I already tried to shift it correctly, but it did not quite work out as it should. Now I'll fix it.



The front end with headlight connectors also looked sad. A few years ago I already rewound them with "Soviet" rag tape, but it "mummified")) It dried up, stuck with mud, and began to break like brushwood.





I started to unwind - it turned out to be more difficult than I thought. In some places anticorrosive and bitumen glued the electrical tape tightly, in some places there were all sorts of "collective farm" electrical tapes, of various colors and types, which were very poorly unwound. The most severe turned out to be green - I had to cut it off. There was a lot of glue, anticorrosive and dirt on the wiring, so I washed all the wires and connectors with white spirit with a toothbrush, then washed the connectors with white spirit from the compressor. Here is the tool - a scalpel, a spatula, a toothbrush and a lot of white spirit. And the result is half a box of scraps of electrical tape, and clean, bare wiring.



And then I freaked out even more! If the rear part of the wiring was in quite good condition, then its front engine compartment is a horror - twisting on twisting ... When I put restyled headlights, I cut off the old connectors and "pinned" the connectors from restyling. And now I was surprised that there were already twists a little higher along the braid - someone changed the connectors before me ... in the end - a bunch of twists. We will remove all this and bring it back to normal.





The left door connector will most likely need to be changed completely.





For that right after washing, almost like new.



And connectors C302, C103, C101 are planned to be stuffed to "full"! ;)





Bought the necessary tools and materials.



I bought Tesa electrical tape - in the original it is exactly like this, but when ordering from officials it costs 4 times more. I took 5 skeins of fabric, 2 lavsan, and 1 PVC. Fabric - for the interior, lavsan - for the engine compartment, trunk and external wiring, PVC - for isolating twists and fixing branches - it is the most sticky.
I bought two types of heat shrink - regular and glued. On glue it is more rigid and airtight - I used it on the branches of the bundles, soldered only the edges.
Thanks to a colleague on the E30, I stocked up with donor pieces of wiring and connectors. I also still have my own stocks.



I did what should have been done a long time ago - I printed out the complete ETM for my wiring in '86, and just in case for '89 - it's much more convenient than separate sheets.



Well, and away we go! )) Light creative mess in the process )



My wall-mounted semi-hood was very useful - a convenient magnetic board)



At the moment, the front (engine compartment) and rear (salon and trunk) part of the body wiring is already ready. Nearly all connectors have been replaced on the front, unnecessary twists have been removed, the rest have been crimped and insulated. I made an extension cord on the factory connectors for the antifreeze level sensor, since the tank is in my radiator. All harnesses are rewound with lavsan tape.







At the back, everything was much simpler - I replaced the connectors with number plate lights, and removed the "collective farm" corrugations from the pump harness. I rewound the trunk harness with lavsan tape, and the interior part with fabric.



For the first part, I think enough. Next time - about upgrades in the middle part of the body wiring.