E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Body repair_20. Bottom cleaning. (part 4)

So, after a short rest, we will continue from the beginning! ))

I decided to get rid of the self-tapping screws for attaching the body kit, although in the original BBS it is attached in this way. I put riveting nuts in a circle, they are also threaded rivets - M4 stainless steel. Now the body kit will be screwed with M4 screws, also made of stainless steel - I hope there will be no "bugs" around such fasteners, like around self-tapping screws.



Then I decided to change the concept - and put in a very evil crumpled drift suspension! Super stiff, no springs or shocks, 360 degree turn front and rear, very hard rubber with a minimal profile. Then it turned out that with the clearance too much and the car does not pass the height of the garage door! )) I had to drop it, according to the classics) The front track was further expanded, the rear track was shifted back for better handling. Here's what happened:





But seriously, today was, I hope, the final part of cleaning the bottom - sandblasting. But it was necessary to get there somehow, and there is no more suspension on the car. Fortunately, a colleague in the E30 body repair just got these carts free, which he kindly provided me. Igor - thanks!
It’s not very convenient to drag and remove onto a trailer, but it’s better than carrying a body on your hands! ) We loaded in the evening and left early in the morning.







First, to the painter - they removed all external hinged parts, they will be prepared by hand, so as not to spoil the front planes with sandblasting. Then sandblast. They put it on tippers. They removed the "drift" suspension, and the process began!









The result of the process impressed me very much!













... and in some places upset ... (

Put the "suspension" in place, dragged to the trailer, and back to the painter. Today he will cover everything with acidic soil, then with some other soil. And then, do you think there will be painting?... you didn't guess!! )) Then there will be WELDING again!!!! ))) This is fucked up... you can't just take it like that and finish it! )) In addition to those holes that I found myself, after sandblasting, there were more of them! ... The hand does not rise to leave them ...

[The_Glory]

Body repair_19. Bottom cleaning. (part 3)

Yesterday there was welding again ....)
As I wrote in previous entries, after the bottom was completely cleaned of bitumen and factory sealant, "jambs" and imperfections were discovered that were not visible before. I agreed with a familiar welder, brought welding to my garage and began to eliminate it all. It seems that everything is trifles, but such trifles turned out to be quite a few - they killed for it all day.
So what has been done:
1) Welded holes in the bracket of the right front seat and closed it completely tightly. (collective farm, but less dirt will be collected there)
2) Welded a hole in the floor on the right
3) Welded holes in the rear arch near the filler bracket
4) We moved the lower ear for attaching the rear right arch shield, so it was welded in the wrong place.
5) Instead of a homemade upper ear for the tank, we welded a factory upper bracket in the rear right arch
6) Turned over and welded the muffler bracket correctly
7) Welded in the right place the front studs of the brake pipes, as they were on the wrong side of the spar
8) Welded the rear studs of the brake pipes, which were not
9) Welded a homemade bracket for the tee of the rear brake pipes, which was not
10) Welded the thermal protection studs of the spar and motor shield, which were not
11) Welded a crack on the gearbox tunnel
12) Welded to the bottom with plates tubes of handbrake cables
13) Welded the lower studs of the front fender liner, which were not there, and drilled holes for their front fastening
14) Welded a stud for attaching the battery tray in the rear right niche
15) Welded all the holes from the screws in all the arches
16) We went through all the "suspicious" seams and cleaned them
17) They knocked out the factory plugs for draining condensate from the air conditioner (one, and the other two will need to be drilled after the fact, since there are no plugs in the body, although there are thermal protection), for repeaters in the wings, for wiring the front ABS sensors (and for rear, it is necessary to drill - there are also no plugs)











It seems that everything .... I really don’t want to forget something ... and then drill / weld after painting ...
By the way, I also gave the welder my two rusty hatches in different places - he promised that he would try to make one normal out of them)





The bottom was checked and searched for holes in the light in the twilight)) - like this



In some places, the seams were like constellations in the starry sky))) But now only factory holes are visible - there are no more unauthorized holes in the bottom! )
Although ... after sandblasting they may reappear ... we'll see ...

In the meantime, a week and a half time out - I'm tired even ... I'll go to the sea)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_18. Bottom cleaning. (part 2)

After cleaning the bottom, inaccessible places remained intact - above the rear beam, front supports, and left arches, since the car was on its left side. To get to all these places, you need to remove the beams, and somehow turn the car over. To do this, I took tippers for Lada from a friend and adapted them for the E30. I made such harsh "bumpers"))









Or maybe well, that BBS! ? With such bumpers it will be stronger and more reliable!)))

I screwed these adapters to the tipper instead of the brackets for the Lada, and installed it on the car.





Used the mounting holes of stock bumpers. I made adapters according to my measurements and drawings, but I had to adjust a little more in place. By the way, I'll post the drawings later - maybe someone will come in handy.
The front beam was removed easily and simply, since it was recently removed, but the rear one, at least for the last 11 years, has not been removed ... I had to tinker a little, after which it was removed like this:



The remaining silent blocks had to be drilled out. They simply crumbled into pieces, the lower support of the silent block rotted, and some kind of rubber gaskets were already there. I don’t understand how it didn’t come off on the road and drove without any knocks .... For that, the bolts are like new! )



And now she is completely naked and can be viewed from all sides! )))





The floor in my garage has been "temporary" for many years, and not very even and hard)) Therefore, for insurance, I had to expand the support points on the sides of the tippers, just in case,





and also support the body on the reverse side., since the axis of rotation turned out to be lower than the center of gravity and the roof clearly outweighs the bottom. It was necessary to make the axis of rotation higher by 10-15cm. But not critical - it is reliable, although at first it was scary))





What can I say - a very sensible thing - it is much easier and more convenient to work. Well, this is the result:













I can't believe it, but I did it! ) It remains to clean the front fenders, but there is no sealant, but only bitumen - after cleaning the bottom, it's already like dust for sailors! )))

Now about the sad thing ... on this side, too, there were jambs for welding - little things for fasteners. We welded a hole for the front shield in the arch, the brake pipe studs were welded on the wrong side of the side member, the studs under the rear seat were cut out, patches were put in, and the new studs were not welded, the same with the brackets for the rear brake pipe tee and handbrake cables. In the rear arch there are many holes from the screws on which the fender liner was attached. Luckily no holes or rot were found.
It seems like trifles, but in total there were quite a few of them .... well, we will "finish it" .... More on that next time.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_17. Bottom cleaning. (part 1)

After fitting and installing the body kit, everything was dismantled back and the car was put on the left side to clean the bottom from bitumen, since sandblasting to remove such a layer of it would hardly work, well, or it would be very difficult and not cheap, as I was told. .. Therefore, since the work does not require special qualifications)) I decided to do it myself - especially since I myself smeared it with a very thick layer 9 years ago! )))
This is what it looked like before work began.











In principle, the bitumen was removed not so hard, just in many places it is not very convenient. Therefore, it took a lot of time, since I worked for several hours in the evenings. And no matter what anyone says, but the effect of this anticorrosive is still there - under it the bottom has been preserved quite normally. At the same time, I decided to check the safety of the metal floor with the remaining factory anticorrosive - there is surface rust at the joints of the parts and in some places on the planes. Therefore, I decided to remove it completely already. This is much more difficult than bitumen .... The metal brushes for the drill and the disks for the grinder were immediately clogged with bitumen, it all melted, burned, smoked and stank, so I removed everything manually, with a wide screwdriver, a chisel and a spatula (the photo shows the tool and " results" in two plastic jars :) ) Then I washed off the rest with white spirit. As they say - perseverance and work - everyone will be fucked! )))
And tonight, the bottom looks like this.













Access above the rear beam and inside the front supports is very poor, so I haven’t cleaned it there yet. I will remove both beams. To do this, I took turntables from a friend, I will make adapters for them under the E30, and then I will already finish the left arches and a part above the rear beam.



In general, the state of the bottom is quite normal, but there were some "surprises" in welding.
1) holes on the seat mounting bracket - I don’t know how they weren’t noticed when the threshold was welded ...



2) a small hole in the floor in front



3) two holes in the rear arch near the tank filler neck bracket



4) instead of a stud, they welded an ear for the shield - but oh well, they forgot to weld the upper ear for the shield



5) muffler bracket welded upside down

... maybe something else will come out on the left side ....

All this will need to be corrected, and then the same for sandblasting.

P.S.
When I was picking up the car, on the way the rear bumper fang fell off on the right side. It turned out that the bracket and bumper there just rotted through and through. Therefore, on the occasion, not far away and for symbolic money, I bought both bumpers in reserve. The middle parts, of course, are rubbish, for that the sidewalls are all intact.

[The_Glory]

I'd tend to claim that the hitch needs one additional pivot point to the bumper line. But I might be wrong if my understanding about force vectors does not apply.

As practice has shown, the main thing here is that the angles of the front wheels are correct... And in my case, it was a horror... I didn't use it anymore.

[The_Glory]

I've never seen a rigid hitch like that before. Looks interesting.

Rust repair looks good!

Yes, but there are nuances) I will write about them later.

Thanks.

[hasa]

I'd tend to claim that the hitch needs one additional pivot point to the bumper line. But I might be wrong if my understanding about force vectors does not apply.

[Northern]

I've never seen a rigid hitch like that before. Looks interesting.

Rust repair looks good!

[The_Glory]

Body repair_16. Installing body kit BBS.

It hasn't even been 6 years since I got to installing a full BBS kit... :))

According to the work plan, I drilled holes for the body kit and installed it - there is one inconspicuous jamb on the right threshold, but in general - like norms. But I don’t know what to do with fasteners - in the original BBS is attached severely - with self-tapping screws to the body. That's how it was fixed for me. After painting, there was an idea to switch to plastic clips .... but even I doubted that it would stand evenly and rigidly on the clips .... In addition, holes for clips are needed at least 6mm - not everywhere on the body kit and body it is possible to drill such holes ... I’ll probably leave them on self-tapping screws .... But here again the question of body protection arises .... Maybe on stainless steel riveting nuts? ... but again, they won’t fit everywhere ... I don’t know what to do with this fastener ... But in general, the body kit has become good, and even better than it was before. Although, aprons still need to be glued, but this will be a separate entry.
For now, here it is:





















In the photo, the bumpers are not fixed on the sides, but when fitting, everything was attached and checked. This time I approached the installation of the body kit more carefully, and accordingly, the result was better than before;)
Although, the overlays hung generally purely symbolically on adhesive tape



The expansion along the arches is not small





Fasteners for self-tapping screws





Thresholds are attached through a special bar



The lower threshold mount is similar to the M-Technic mount - you will need to buy clamps - logically, they should fit ...

P.S.
We will go to sandblasting and painting on a rigid hitch - it's even easier and cheaper than a trailer. Got it from a friend ;)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_15. The result of welding.

Welding lasted a long time, but a lot of work was done - they welded and changed absolutely everything that they found and that aroused suspicion - an even front frame was welded in, the hood torsion bars and hood were replaced, the front apron was slightly straightened and sanded, repair inserts were welded into the bottom of the front of the wings, the left support with a spar was leveled and replaced, the engine shield and the battery platform were welded on, the old holes were cleaned and new holes were welded in the bottom, a new gas pedal bracket was made, the hatch drainage was brought out, the "trough" of the hatch and the roof were restored, the corners of the roof pillars were reinforced with overlays , the holes for the speakers in the rear shelf were restored, the thresholds with amplifiers and jacks were replaced, the rear external arches were replaced and the internal ones were welded, the rear right side member was restored above the spring and its upper plate was replaced, the spare tire niche was replaced, niches in the rear fenders were welded, a new rear panel was installed , the trunk lid is welded on, the left rear fender is extended in the area of the antenna, the whole is welded in the rear right fender th hatch of the tank, all the doors were replaced and welded on the little things, the hinges of the driver's door were restored, the brackets of the handbrake cables, the filler neck, the backstage support, the shield and the tank in the rear right arch, the ground terminals were restored, a lot of missing mounting studs were welded and maybe more I forgot some things...
The control body dimensions are brought to the factory ones, the main external elements are installed - headlights, grilles, nostrils, door seals and locks, taillights and bumpers, after which all gaps are set.
After all this, the car looks like this, in which I took it:









































Now I am installing a body kit, so that after painting nothing would have to be drilled. More on that in the next post.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_14. Finally picked up from welding!

Less than a year later, the welding work was completed! )) They lasted 11 months .... what can I say ... I didn’t seem to be in a hurry anywhere, but not to such an extent )) To be honest, I counted on a shorter time ... and on a smaller budget)) Well, okay - the main thing is that the most difficult stage of body work is completed! ...I hope ))
I went to pick up with a painter who will paint, so that he would immediately evaluate the work and point out the shortcomings. And it was the right decision - it was not possible to pick it up the first time - the car was not fully assembled and there were comments on some gaps and planes. A few days later, the car was assembled, seals, locks, headlights, grilles, lights, bumpers were installed, all gaps were set - and we again came with a painter. The quality of the work suited him, according to the gaps everything was OK, and he gave the go-ahead! )
By the way, I went to pick up on an "X" with a trailer - this is 4 times cheaper than a tow truck.
Last summer I installed the original towbar, but it was not possible to test it. And the day before yesterday, finally, I tried for the first time to drive with a trailer. I rented a trailer, and here is such a "road train" turned out:



Loaded







Stop to check fastening



And here we are at home!
We are unloading, again, like almost a year ago when loading, under the curious and surprised looks of the neighbors))) Apparently, they no longer expected to see my "thirty" again! )



On the way, for some reason, the rear bumper on the right unscrewed.



Several not very confident attempts to maneuver with a trailer and "thirty" again in his garage!





The plan for further action is as follows:
1. Fitting and installing body kit, drilling mounting holes, and then disassembly.
2. Removing from the bottom of all those mastics that were smeared there before me and me)
3. Sandblast the bottom and optionally the body.
4. After sandblasting, immediately to the painter, and primer.
5. Processing seams and bottoms
6. Painting
7. Assembly.

Here's a simple plan ;)
I won’t guess at the expense of timing)) but I hope it will go faster than welding)

A little later I will post a photo of the result of welding work.

[The_Glory]

VIII Festival of the Ukrainian Club BMW E30 June 1, 2019 Kyiv-Zazimye Photo, video

On June 1, the VIII Festival of the Ukrainian Club BMW E30 was held.
...for me it's already the second festival in a row without E30... (But that's okay - I hope I'll arrive at the next festival on thirty! ;)
In the meantime, he participated in the convoy on the X5, this time as the trailer, escort car and "obstruction")) Washed up in the evening, hung the flag early in the morning and drove to the place where the convoy was assembled - to the embankment.







By the way, a "surprise" was waiting for us there - it suddenly turned out that at that particular time there were some kind of fishermen's competitions, and the usually empty parking lot at that time turned out to be full of fishermen's cars! )) Although with difficulty but still accommodated.



There were 42 cars in the convoy.



Then there was another "surprise" - on the same day in Kyiv there was some kind of "cyclist's day" - and according to the law of meanness, as if their passage was planned along our route! That's fucked up! )) It’s not easy to drive around Kyiv in such a column along interchanges, so one lane was also closed for cyclists ... I had to close the passage to the extreme lane at the interchanges with the “X” a little bit against the rules so that the column would not break, but this did not help. Therefore, when we passed the "bicycle route" we had to stop and wait for everyone to catch up.



And here I am in the frame)



The exit from the Brovarsky highway turned out to be interesting - in previous years, when the convoy turned on the Zhytomyr highway, people stopped and calmly let the convoy through, they also greeted - and some kind of nervous drivers drive along the Brovarsky highway, they had to stupidly prop up and block especially "stung" ones, so that they did not fly into the convoy! But we got through safely.



This year there was a new format for us - without slalom and drag competitions, as the experience of recent years has shown - there are very few people who want to participate in them ... Therefore, this year the playground was a football field where you could just put cars, walk, watch, chat. There were about 70 cars in total.







The traditional competition for the best car - OLD SCHOOL E30 - remained in the program. But there were also very few people who wanted to participate in it, so I had to write it down almost on a voluntary-compulsory basis! ))) There were 15 participants.





The winner was determined by voting of the contestants themselves. They became a beautiful red convertible.



And at this time, nearby on the site was the roar of engines, the squeal of rubber and smoke!



This year there was another novelty - the opportunity for everyone to burn rubber on a separate site. As well as prepared "cramps" in the role of "drift taxi".



I'm with my E30 lovers;)



While they ride gyroboards, but the eldest has already begun to master the "X5"))



Then there were more competitions for the highest and lowest car. But the activity of the participants simply baffled - one car at a time! Campaign, no one needs these contests ... Here we are discussing this "awkward" moment next to two participants))



In fact, they won! ))) The highest is touring, the lowest is a pneumatic sedan.



Well, then there was the "unofficial part)) - barbecue, beer, conversations until midnight - it was fun and sincere!

P.S.
Thanks to Sasha frans1 for the photo.

http://forum.e30club.com.ua/index.php/topic,4847.0.html

And also thanks to the operators for the video.
[MEDIA=youtube]_zr19GJmNnc[/MEDIA]
View: https://youtu.be/_zr19GJmNnc

[MEDIA=youtube]omMcXSAUIjQ[/MEDIA]
View: https://youtu.be/omMcXSAUIjQ

[MEDIA=youtube]_TolBqFizGM[/MEDIA]
View: https://youtu.be/_TolBqFizGM

[The_Glory]

Judging by the activity in the comments, it is not very interesting ) Or the horror they saw made people speechless ))
Next, the painting and assembly records are not so scary - maybe it will be more interesting ;)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_13. Rear and roof

Today I came to the welder, I open the door, - and there I am met by such a pretty ass! ))



The beauty! )



The back panel of the Polcar came out great, without any problems.



There was a lot of putty on the right wing near the lantern - the edging was removed and slightly straightened.



The arches have been welded for a long time.







Back is ready!

This stupid misunderstanding of the Bavarian engineers was corrected - they brought the water outlet out of the hatch to the outside, under the wing, and not inside the threshold, as it was at the factory.



Now the thresholds and front corners of the floors should live happily ever after))

Finally, the driver's door will close normally and will not sag - they made new hinge pins, fitted the hinges under them - zero backlash!



And I never found such loops in disassembly ...
We made brackets for the muffler, for the handbrake cables, welded a couple more mounting studs on the body, returned the factory fastening of the backstage support - it was "temporarily" welded when it broke during slalom about 6 years ago))

And now about the main thing - the roof!



In the previous post, I showed what Armageddon turned out to be! Although, I stubbornly resisted, but the welder convinced me to change the entire roof - cut it along the racks ... because if you weld, the putty on the roof can crack ... I didn’t want to do something “cut”, something was scary)) But still I started looking for a roof with a sunroof for a 4-door sedan ... but what to do !? ) I searched for showdowns, at flea markets, on forums, on acquaintances - I reviewed more than a dozen roofs - they are all the same as mine! .... well, a couple of pieces were a little better, but all rusty in the same places! I have already started looking at 2-doors to change the skin itself - but they are the same. The price of a new roof in $ 1000 I didn’t like something) In general, after spending a month and a half searching and viewing, I never found a whole roof with a sunroof on the E30! They are no longer there. Without a hatch - yes. But I need a hatch! Therefore, we once again discussed the problem with the welder and decided to do mine! Namely, to drill and remove the hatch trough, weld the holes in the roof neatly into the joint and separately restore the edges of the trough. Then the roof and trough were sanded and primed. Here's what happened.
The outside is not finished yet, but it should turn out with a minimum of putty. Or maybe tin...





The inside turned out just great! Now the trough is screwed for fitting on self-tapping screws.







Right restored side



The left side - if you look closely - you can see the restored piece - with all the bends, as it was in the factory.



Welded all the cracks on the uprights and corners of the openings. The corners of the roof pillars were reinforced from the inside with overlays.



Inside the niche is now just as beautiful, although it is not visible in the photo.



Then the trough will be removed again, the roof and the trough will be painted and then it will be installed on the sealant and welded. I think this result will be much better than "cut" with a slightly less rusty roof from the inside.

In general, the machine is almost ready for welding.

There are still a few little things that I discovered today - the gas pedal bracket, the holes for the wiring connector bracket, the studs in the rear right arch for the shield - I really don’t want to miss something from the little things, and then find it after painting ...) There are still a lot of suspicious shpakli on the rear left fender near the antenna - they'll look even there ...

Well, now I’m thinking about materials for protecting the body .... I don’t know if it makes sense to buy expensive sealants like 3M, Sika, Terroson or take it even easier .... they all have the same chemical composition ... and the prices are very various )
Haven't decided yet about sandblasting... sandblasting selectively, or all, or not sandblasting at all...? How and how to remove bitumen from the bottom, or not to remove ...?
Today I visited a painter and a welder - we talked, roughly outlined further plans, but it will still be necessary to make adjustments if I don’t go through the budget))

[The_Glory]

[B] Multiple start interruption (immobilizer) [/ B]

Welding is welding, and no one has canceled the search for new options! ))

For a long time I noticed this thing in the ETK, but its name was somehow incomprehensible, and it seemed to me that it was something very complicated, and connected with the motor ...
http://2009.bmw-autocats.ru/parts/E3..._interruption/

Therefore, I always put it off for "later" and did not particularly delve into this topic. But now the collection of options is nearing completion and, as they say, the time has come! )
I googled on foreign forums, since I have never seen this thing on our forums in the E30. There is not much information, but enough to deal with this option. By the way, in the list of factory original options for the E30, it sounds like this:
900 Anerkannte Wegfahrsicherung lt. AZT/TÜV (Approved immobilizer according to AZT / TÜV)

Digression: As far as I know, at that time insurance companies introduced a mandatory requirement for car insurance - the presence of an immobilizer that meets TÜV requirements. And the ridiculously primitive "immobilizer" of the regular BC of the CODE function could not meet these requirements, since it turned off when the terminal was removed from the battery)) Therefore, apparently, the Germans decided to do something about it! )

As you can see from the name and description, this is a regular immobilizer, which is the next "step" in the development of the factory anti-theft system with a magnetic key, which I have already installed and is working. In fact, these systems duplicate each other, partially complementing - the first is more of a security system, as it reacts to unauthorized entry into the cabin, and is deactivated from the outside with a magnetic key, and the second is more anti-theft, as it is deactivated already in the cabin, immediately before launch engine, a special key with a chip. We get two lines of defense! )) Although, one of them was usually set. By today's standards, of course, this protection is primitive, but my goal was not protection, but more - just to find a rare option! ))
This option was available for E30, Z1, E31, E32, E34, E36, but judging by EVA - only since 1994. Therefore, it is rare, and especially on the E30. It is still available to order a new one, but the price is not small. The key and lock can also be bought new separately, but I still do not understand how then it is "attached" to the ECU ...
You can also find a used one, but the truth is often without a key or with a cut off wiring. In the latter case, the meaning of the purchase tends to zero ... And that's why - since this is an anti-theft system, the Germans decided to stun a potential hijacker who decided to turn off this system, and made ALL 17 wires in its two "braids" of the same black color! )) From the factory, each wire had a plastic "tag" with the wire number, and the pinout of the numbers was indicated only in the EVA factory installation instructions, in which there was a strong recommendation - after installing and checking the operation of the system, remove all tags from all wires - " and ends in the water!" (c) Harsh!? )) That's the same! )
Therefore, finding a complete set, with intact wiring and preserved wire markings, is good luck! And she smiled at me! )) Who seeks - he will find! (c) Moreover, I found it quite quickly and nearby - with a long-time comrade in E30;) And even one and a half sets! )



The first was without a key and without a combination lock.



Obviously, either after a repeated and slightly "collective farm" installation, or the electrician was so severe that he immediately cut off the excess length of all the wires and twisted them into twists, simplifying the factory connection and inserting into the wiring as much as possible. )) This is not our method! (With) ))



A little later, in the bins, a friend also found a complete set, with a key and a lock, which Andrey himself once rented for himself, like from E32. Thank you for this fit! )




Therefore, everything is already neat here - all the connectors and pins are in place, the mating connectors from the body wiring are cut off with pieces of wires with color.





Moreover, by some miracle, on all 17 black wires, factory tags with numbers have been preserved, and some are also signed "by hand"!







There should be two keys in the set, but it's good that there is at least one, although its body is slightly damaged and a home-made "eye" is attached to it for hanging the key.



Removed the "collective farm" and laundered the key from the adhesive tape.



Hope it will work! The operation algorithm is simple - before starting the motor, you need to firmly lean the key against its combination lock - the "button" in the center of the key socket is pressed and thus the wiring interrupt system is deactivated. Several circuits are broken, including the fuel pump, but the electrical circuit could not be found - during installation I will figure out which circuits are broken.
An interesting point - on the wiring of the lock, one wire is copper, and the other two are made of white, harder metal - I wonder why ...



ECU block





Guarantee



In my bins I found the factory installation instructions for EVA, printed out the source code in German, translated into English, and inspired by the presence of tags on the wires, in the middle of the night, quickly, translated the pinout into Ukrainian! )) Everything turned out to be much easier than it could be!



The rest is a matter of time, and a matter of technique! )) After installation, I will make a report, maybe I will translate the instructions, although there is nothing particularly complicated in English either. Although, I don’t think that besides me, there will be many more who want to install an ancient alarm system, especially if there is already one ancient one! )
In the meantime, "Multiple start abort" will be waiting for the completion of welding / painting and its time to install!



P.S.
Another coin in the piggy bank "crow's feet"! )
E30 colleague FallenAngel88 donated these skins, for which I thank him.



The condition is so-so, but maybe the fabric will come in handy for the waist of the armrests... or maybe not... but let it be...;)
Well, now there is another complete set of pens and pockets for cards - we can also come in handy ...