2nd e30, 87 Lachssilber Revival

[ForcedFirebird]

Similar, Digger. I cap the ICV (if they are using one), get all throttles 100% closed, make sure the engine won't run, which would indicate vacuum leaks. then I adjust the center stop just enough top get idle. Balance the two outer sets to the center, then close the stop, add the ICV back in the loop - or leave them cracked open if the ICV was deleted.

At first I didn't think the vacuum type was going to work well, but was kind of forced to use it with the Dbilas car we tuned, now I prefer it. The gauges I use have a buffer valve to keep the needle from fluttering. I'll actually be using it today on a RHD equipped m20. Hoping the weather stays nice so we can do a road tune as well, hurricane Nicole just grazed us last night.

[Reichart12]

Similar, Digger. I cap the ICV (if they are using one), get all throttles 100% closed, make sure the engine won't run, which would indicate vacuum leaks. then I adjust the center stop just enough top get idle. Balance the two outer sets to the center, then close the stop, add the ICV back in the loop - or leave them cracked open if the ICV was deleted.

At first I didn't think the vacuum type was going to work well, but was kind of forced to use it with the Dbilas car we tuned, now I prefer it. The gauges I use have a buffer valve to keep the needle from fluttering. I'll actually be using it today on a RHD equipped m20. Hoping the weather stays nice so we can do a road tune as well, hurricane Nicole just grazed us last night.

If I understand this first part correctly, I can totally remove the ICV? Put a cap on the fitting from the distribution block and tuck the wire out of the way? So far I haven't done anything with the ICV so if I could skip it and not have to route an additional vacuum line to the plenum, that would be ideal.

[ForcedFirebird]

You "can", and use the throttle stop for idle, just keep in mind it will be temperamental with the first start of the day - and may need to be adjusted seasonally.

[digger]

If I understand this first part correctly, I can totally remove the ICV? Put a cap on the fitting from the distribution block and tuck the wire out of the way? So far I haven't done anything with the ICV so if I could skip it and not have to route an additional vacuum line to the plenum, that would be ideal.

Don’t skip the ICV. He was talking about blocking it off during balancing only

[ForcedFirebird]

Don’t skip the ICV. He was talking about blocking it off during balancing only

I prefer ICV on street cars. Race cars don't matter as much, they can have high or rolling idle. I am working on a street right now without, and getting smooth idle is a pain.

[Reichart12]

Woah! Another year has come and gone. Just hit 9 years of ownership with this e30. I do have to admit, I did scrounge through online ads a lot this year looking for something with less rust. But nonetheless, I'm sticking with this one until it falls apart (for now). If you were to look back through at all my yearly goals, you would see that I might only ever accomplish ~25% of them and this year will be no different.

Anyways, I am looking into replacing the entire brake and fuel system on the car. I've blown the hard brake line running to the rear of the car twice now so I think it's time to just start replacing it all and remove any rust on the lines or in the system. I could go and refurb the calipers along with getting new hard and soft lines, booster, pads, and rotors, or just do the lines. And as for the fuel system, I have always been weary of a rust mark on the seam of the gas tank and have not filled the tank full in quite some time because of that. Obviously for this, I might go through and do tank, pump(s), and lines. The mess on top of the tank and filler neck is what I'm most apprehensive about for that.

And while I'm in there.... the list could go on but won't. Although a 3.73 lsd to replace the stock open 325e diff would be nice.

I am curious on people's opinions on how much or how little to change with this.

We have snow now, but about a month ago, the backyard was looking nice for a photoshoot.

[moatilliatta]

I've always like the idea of developing what you have, even if it has "some" rust. After working all the kinks out, then swap a better chassis if needed. I enjoy the patina of your car.

Id say go for for a full brake overhaul, most of these cars need it by now. Not to mention the safety, but the extended enjoyment of being confident in your machine.

Upgrades < Maintenance

Id consider a 3:73 if you're running an "I" Motor.

Or shades of almost lach's are quite similar including patina.

[Reichart12]

I've always like the idea of developing what you have, even if it has "some" rust. After working all the kinks out, then swap a better chassis if needed. I enjoy the patina of your car.

Id say go for for a full brake overhaul, most of these cars need it by now. Not to mention the safety, but the extended enjoyment of being confident in your machine.

Upgrades < Maintenance

Id consider a 3:73 if you're running an "I" Motor.

Or shades of almost lach's are quite similar including patina.

I definitely don't mind putting nice parts on this chassis with the thought that I could easily move to a rust-free one later on.

And yup, it's the "i" motor but with the diff of the "e" car. Looks like it's sat at the bottom of the ocean for 100 years.

[Reichart12]

Working on getting the plenum attached and the last vacuum line I need for the ICV. I've taken the throttles off so many times now I am learning a new thing about them every time. Had to get some fine adjustments on the center set by repositioning the J-hooks on either side to get a more stable idle but I think it is in a good place now. The middle set always pulled more vacuum than the outer pairs but now it's lower so it's easier to set the outer sets to match the middle.

A couple bolt holes on the carbon lip of the plenum do not match up well with the backing plate so I think I will open the holes up on the backing plate to help that issue. I will be drilling into the backing plate anyways to get the ICV hose to attach there. Once it's warm enough in the garage again, I may make a carbon fiber backing plate just for fun and to match the plenum. My skills should be enough to make a flat piece haha.

I've decided to redo the brakes first after the plenum is on. Won't touch the booster or ABS pump but will try to redo everything else associated with it. From some threads, it seems like a new master will do a lot to get some better feel in my brakes. For the fuel system, I want to read more about going from the two pump early set up to the single late design before ordering any items. And keeping my eyes open for a differential. Is it common to replace the gearing inside to a better ratio or are people typically just buying entirely new unit for that change?

One photo for now and the rest will come when the job is done.

[Reichart12]

So my last post was a progress update while I was getting the plenum on. Now I can say it is fully on so I wanted to try to describe the process. A lot of what I've posted has just been "it's on, it's done" but not too much of how I went about it. Hoping to add a bit of value to anyone searching for information in the future.

To start with, this should point out how long I've been taking to get any car work done...



From a viewer on my Youtube, it was pointed out that I never installed the o-rings into the throttle bodies. There is one per side per cylinder. Honestly, I saw the bag of o-rings when I unpacked the shipment from RHD but thought it was a bag of small gauge wire to help with splicing in sensors, very similar to the coil of wire I used earlier for this purpose. So, first steps were to remove the throttles, get the o-rings in, and reassemble that step. In the end it did help me, as I took more time to understand the adjustment possible with the throttles. Starting with only the middle set on, I adjusted the j-hooks on either side to get a good airflow here. Then adding in the side pairs, was able to fine tune to get more even airflow. Previously, my middle set was impossible to match the outers, but spinning the position of j-hooks fixed this issue.









Next up was simply adjusting the airflow and making sure everything was in sync. Nothing too special about this part.



After checking the airflow, the spacers need to come back off. The spacers need to be connected through the backing plate to the trumpets. I learned this the hard way of many iterations of getting things together. Keep this connection loose. Having the trumpets loose to the spacers gives a few mm adjustment in the hole of the backplate. Eventually the spacers get tighten back to the throttles and then tighten to the trumpets.



I wanted my ICV to be plumbed through the backing plate so I drilled a hole to fit the RHD provided connector. I used a normal drill bit to start but didn't have one big enough so eventually bought a step bit to open the hole up to the needed size. My next goof-up was installing the combo spacers-backing plate-trumpets to the engine. Turns out in that situation, the plenum will NOT be able to wiggle around the brake booster to go on. So back everything came off. Then when trying to get the plenum attached to the backing plate, several bolt holes did not line up with the plenum. So I used my new step bit and opened up some of the holes on the backplate to get me the space needed to bolt the plenum up. Unsure if this is the best way to do it, but the plenum has enough of a fold over, that I'm not worried about excessive air sneaking through the seams.

Once the plenum was attached firmly to the backing plate, I again installed everything back into the car. Remember, loose bolt for spacers to trumpets, tighten spacers to throttles, then tighten spacers to trumpets. What an ordeal!





Everything is on! My idle changed with the plenum on. Not entirely sure how this affects available air but I had to use the idle adjustment to open the throttles up a little to keep the car running. It would just die out without this, presumably to less air. Next steps will be to open up the tuning software, adjust air:fuel and get the idle to a good spot and back to tuning more of the driving range.

[roguetoaster]

It looks good, and that's a pretty good writeup, reminds me very much of messing with a set of dbilas ITBs.

But now that you have it figured out you'll have to move on to carburetors or something to keep you learning.

[2mAn]

So it’s on... but how’s it running? Seems like the tuning is a never ending process

[digger]

Once you have got everything setup and throttles operating consistently i would hang the expense and head to the dyno for tuning even just a short session to rough in the tune.

[Reichart12]

It looks good, and that's a pretty good writeup, reminds me very much of messing with a set of dbilas ITBs.

But now that you have it figured out you'll have to move on to carburetors or something to keep you learning.

Ugh it's like I was a student for too long and actually enjoy learning new things.

So it’s on... but how’s it running? Seems like the tuning is a never ending process

It runs. Not spectacularly. Clearly I'm only doing a day per month working on this thing, but it'll get there soon.

Once you have got everything setup and throttles operating consistently i would hang the expense and head to the dyno for tuning even just a short session to rough in the tune.

Coming through with words of wisdom again. I should start scheduling this with a local place. I might be a little traumatized from all the tuning I had on my 2.9L that never really got me anyway haha.

[Sledgehammer_01]

Interested to see how it changes the cars drift behavior