I have an E 30.

[Nader393]

Fairly certain I saw your car in the Factoria Wal-Mart parking lot a few weeks back.

Six years a member and only 4 posts? Impressive, Sophia! I have a personal rule for any forum I inhabit, to never exceed 1,000 posts. Hence my long replies, packing in as much as I can in as few posts as possible.

Anyway, yes, I remember you. You caught me on my weekly Walmart trip to pick up my usual 36 count box of Magnum size condoms. I saw your similar car, and I drove by slowly to get your attention, because our cars looked like they might be friends. Didn't get your attention, and I'm not creepy enough to pull up and park next to male strangers, especially with condoms on my mind, so that was that. Nice car, BTW.

As for my ongoing project, I spent a few days away from it, stewing over the shallow main bearing stud issue. Strange, because I ordered the specified kit from ARP, according to the machine shop that has built up many of these M20 engines. In my research, though, I can't find formal documentation of the M20-specced part number from ARP.

It still bugs me that those ARP studs don't protrude from the nuts. This happens when I farm out work; questioning variances like that. The more I think, the more I worry. Then my concern escalates, and I imagine that maybe it's worse that it seems; maybe the studs aren't even bottomed out, and still installed short. Here's a picture of what worried me:



So I went back and loosened the main bearing stud nuts (in the correct order), and sure enough, the studs weren't even screwed down all the way. Picture shows the studs fully threaded into the block (that I painstakingly chased and cleaned of gunk in a previous post). One side has the washer, the other doesn't.
So apparently the studs were backed out of the block enough to thread just the bare minimum nuts, ostensibly to reach acceptable torque. Unacceptable (to me). Must have at least two threads protruding from the nut, while the stud is bottomed out.



OTOH, since the main caps are steel, one could use the nuts without the thick washers (as pictured for the top stud/nut above), but even then there's barely full thread coverage. Call me crazy, but when you spend 1/8 of $1K for slightly more than a baker's dozen of some finger-length small caliber studs with washers and nuts, I feel like they should fit as a mechanical engineer intended, including the washers. In this case, backing out the stud to make it fit sacrifices precious block thread real estate, thereby losing out on ultimate stud grippage. I'm sure this setup is fine for 99.9% of users, and that I'm making a big deal for myself out of nothing, but I still find it frustrating, can't let it go, and I'm going to fix it...

[Nader393]

As of this posting, I have 667 postings until I reach 1000. I'm using this slot to say that none of this means anything. There's more to life than your 25 year old car, it's problems, and potential improvements. And you should tend to it. I mean your life, not your car.

Stop reading my drivel. Cars will always be there. Instead, call Mom. Kiss your kid on the forehead. If your car is up to it, take the family out for french fries.

[ThatM20Guy]

As of this posting, I have 667 postings until I reach 1000. I'm using this slot to say that none of this means anything. There's more to life than your 25 year old car, it's problems, and potential improvements. And you should tend to it. I mean your life, not your car.

Stop reading my drivel. Cars will always be there. Instead, call Mom. Kiss your kid on the forehead. If your car is up to it, take the family out for french fries.

HA! I'm only 20...I got plenty of life to go :p


As to the main cap studs, I got some as well and I think mine were barely poking above the nut.

[Secniv]

As of this posting, I have 667 postings until I reach 1000. I'm using this slot to say that none of this means anything. There's more to life than your 25 year old car, it's problems, and potential improvements. And you should tend to it. I mean your life, not your car.



Stop reading my drivel. Cars will always be there. Instead, call Mom. Kiss your kid on the forehead. If your car is up to it, take the family out for french fries.

Mechanic, poet, philosopher, sex god.. you’re obviously multifaceted and very talented!

I’m replying so I can get my posts up to an even dozen btw.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Sophia69IS]

Six years a member and only 4 posts? Impressive, Sophia! I have a personal rule for any forum I inhabit, to never exceed 1,000 posts. Hence my long replies, packing in as much as I can in as few posts as possible.

Anyway, yes, I remember you. You caught me on my weekly Walmart trip to pick up my usual 36 count box of Magnum size condoms. I saw your similar car, and I drove by slowly to get your attention, because our cars looked like they might be friends. Didn't get your attention, and I'm not creepy enough to pull up and park next to male strangers, especially with condoms on my mind, so that was that. Nice car, BTW.

As for my ongoing project, I spent a few days away from it, stewing over the shallow main bearing stud issue. Strange, because I ordered the specified kit from ARP, according to the machine shop that has built up many of these M20 engines. In my research, though, I can't find formal documentation of the M20-specced part number from ARP.

It still bugs me that those ARP studs don't protrude from the nuts. This happens when I farm out work; questioning variances like that. The more I think, the more I worry. Then my concern escalates, and I imagine that maybe it's worse that it seems; maybe the studs aren't even bottomed out, and still installed short. Here's a picture of what worried me:

[ATTACH]125059[/ATTACH]

So I went back and loosened the main bearing stud nuts (in the correct order), and sure enough, the studs weren't even screwed down all the way. Picture shows the studs fully threaded into the block (that I painstakingly chased and cleaned of gunk in a previous post). One side has the washer, the other doesn't.
So apparently the studs were backed out of the block enough to thread just the bare minimum nuts, ostensibly to reach acceptable torque. Unacceptable (to me). Must have at least two threads protruding from the nut, while the stud is bottomed out.

[ATTACH]125060[/ATTACH]

OTOH, since the main caps are steel, one could use the nuts without the thick washers (as pictured for the top stud/nut above), but even then there's barely full thread coverage. Call me crazy, but when you spend 1/8 of $1K for slightly more than a baker's dozen of some finger-length small caliber studs with washers and nuts, I feel like they should fit as a mechanical engineer intended, including the washers. In this case, backing out the stud to make it fit sacrifices precious block thread real estate, thereby losing out on ultimate stud grippage. I'm sure this setup is fine for 99.9% of users, and that I'm making a big deal for myself out of nothing, but I still find it frustrating, can't let it go, and I'm going to fix it...

Awesome work!

Yes, shortly after I joined this site in 2012, my E30 at that time blew a head gasket and it also cracked the head when I pulled it apart.

I recently acquired another E30 so I popped back on to see if this forum is still busy. It seems like it has slowed down some.

As for my username, my girlfriend at the time made it as her name was "Sophia" I tried to see if I could change it as it is misleading, because I'm male, but I'm not sure how?

Anyways, not to get too far off topic, but good to see you and was cool to see another E30! :)

[shawmcbigdis]

You caught me on my weekly Walmart trip to pick up my usual 36 count box of Magnum size condoms. I saw your similar car, and I drove by slowly to get your attention, because our cars looked like they might be friends. Didn't get your attention, and I'm not creepy enough to pull up and park next to male strangers, especially with condoms on my mind, so that was that.

It's lines like this that make this my favorite thread on the internet right now, not just r3v.

Keep it up Nader!

[Nader393]

Winner winner, chicken dinner!

Mechanic, poet, philosopher, sex god.. you’re obviously multifaceted and very talented!

I’m replying so I can get my posts up to an even dozen btw.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I don't know you, but you're showing excellent judgement!

...Anyways, not to get too far off topic, but good to see you and was cool to see another E30! :)

Likewise! Our cars were twinsies.

It's lines like this that make this my favorite thread on the internet right now, not just r3v.

Keep it up Nader!

Thanks! Another excellent judge of character! There's hope for this site after all!

Now, back to my bored/stroked (like a teenage boy?) engine project. Frustrated by the specced ARP main cap stud fitment, which is too short, I took a chance on another size and I found a winner.

Specifically, the ARP part number 201-5000 (specced for the M50), which my machine shop directed me to buy, and others have also used in their M20 engine builds, does not fully engage their nuts if the studs are bottomed out in a block whose threads were chased and cleaned. Remember how I did that, and even ground down a tap so it would bottom out correctly? Strange how ARP lists part numbers for other BMW engines, but not the M20. So I took my machine shop's word, which seemed to correlate with others on this site, and I showed (in painful detail?) the results.

Unsatisfied, I forked over another $130 for the next size up in studs; ARP #201-5002. These are specced for the S54 from the E46 M3. They are the same diameter and thread pitch, but about 6mm longer. Here's a comparison shot of length and fitment. Note, main cap studs in the background show the first one bottomed out, the others backed out of the block to engage most of the nut threads:






And here are the new ones in-situ. Stud bottomed out in the block, fat-ass washers in use, and two threads protruding beyond the nut. As Archytas of Tarentum and Archimedes intended.






Told'ja I was gonna fix it.

[ATL_E30]

Victory Chicken!

[Nader393]

OK, I'm back. I've been distracted by a few things, including restoring a 76 Toyota Land Cruiser in my driveway. That was fun, and came out well. Also had to study to recertify for my medical board exams. That sucked.

I've been driving my e30 as a daily, but then it inexplicably stopped starting. Thankfully, in my driveway. Fuel systems are bugging me lately. I had the fuel injector harness fall apart before, and then I was one stranded by the fuel pump fuse blowing out. I think it was from a clogged fuel filter which I replaced.

This time, I traced it down to a lack of fuel. Thought I had a bad fuel pump, so I ordered a replacement. When I took out the one that was in there, I discovered an aftermarket high output, high volume pump. Probably the biggest you can buy, delivers enough fuel for a big block V8 making 800 hp. LOL, prior owners.

I have to wonder if it was over-powering the fuel pressure regulator, and adversely affecting tuning and performance. Never got around to dynoing this engine as I intended. If I have one more fuel or exhaust related problem on this car, I'm going to ditch my plans for that 2.9 L hot engine build, and swap everything out for a Tesla drive train.

Anyway, I put in a stock fuel pump, and all is well. For now...

[Nader393]

I forgot to mention, that aftermarket pump functions fine, it was just a loose electrical connection to it. I may try posting it up for sale on one of the big V-8 hot rodder forums. Ha ha.

[2mAn]

Glad to have you back on here! Has the 2.9 build progressed at all, or has it just been collecting dust in the corner of the garage?

[rzerob]

In for the Tesla powertrain swap.

[Nader393]

Glad to have you back on here! Has the 2.9 build progressed at all, or has it just been collecting dust in the corner of the garage?

On hiatus, sitting in the corner of my unheated shed, double bagged and occasionally hand-rotated to keep things mobile and oily. When the weather warms up, I'll button it up with plans for an engine swap this summer. I need to get this done before the electric car revolution makes ICEs obsolete. Someday finding gas stations will be like finding photographic film processors.

I also think I'll be more motivated to get this project moving again if I swap out the hard springs for something more livable. Currently running what the prior owners installed: Ground Control coil-overs with spring rates at 400F/650R with Koni adjustable shocks, and solid CABs. This setup is waaay stiffer than my Carrera, and even worse than my 348. In fact, this car is sprung as hard as my Alfa race car. I was okay with it at first, but am growing tired of the jarring ride. It's punishing to the driver and the car. Anyway, if I go to something like 200F/400R (not sure these are the correct rates for moderately firmer than stock?), life would be better. If I had a longer commute or this were my only car, I'd have changed it early on.

[rturbo 930]

I've had H&R Race springs, and I have sport springs now. I think I'd look for something that's between the two, as the sports are actually pretty soft, and the car rolls way more than it did with the race springs. Granted my sway bars are stock.

[2mAn]

I also think I'll be more motivated to get this project moving again if I swap out the hard springs for something more livable. Currently running what the prior owners installed: Ground Control coil-overs with spring rates at 400F/650R with Koni adjustable shocks, and solid CABs. This setup is waaay stiffer than my Carrera, and even worse than my 348. In fact, this car is sprung as hard as my Alfa race car. I was okay with it at first, but am growing tired of the jarring ride. It's punishing to the driver and the car. Anyway, if I go to something like 200F/400R (not sure these are the correct rates for moderately firmer than stock?), life would be better. If I had a longer commute or this were my only car, I'd have changed it early on.

H&R Race felt quite comfy for me at 350fr/500rr. I currently run 440fr/600rr and I daily that way with the crappy LA roads. Typically the rear should be about double what the front is. Try the 200fr/400rr

The nice thing is you have ground control, so any 2.5ID spring will fit (cant remember the lengths now, I think its 6" fr and 4" rr but dont quote me on that). You can also adjust the Koni's too and soften them up.