My First Project Car!! // Evergreen E30

[evrgrn]

2.85 Stroker Continued

As I mentioned, I started with the head. I wanted to keep the budget under control, but build the bottom end up enough to support a turbo in the future. I compromised on the head, deciding to keep it completely stock.


Freshly lapped valve, in the kitchen of course


Freshly rebuild and ready to go in. Every gasket and seal replaced, rockers inspected and lash adjusted to spec

With the head ready, I focused on the bottom end. I didn't do as great a job getting pictures unfortunately. I gapped the rings and assembled the engine, but in the process, I made a stupid mistake and damaged the threads on one of the connecting rods. They were K1 Technologies rods, which have been out of production for years. I couldn't find a replacement anywhere, and I ended up just buying a better set. I went with Supertech rods, they are clearly much beefier and only 20 grams more. I will post a more complete list of every part I used later.


Fresh cylinder walls, new water pump, and ACL rod bearings installed and ready to party


Head torqued and timed. Getting close!!

Hoping to have a first start in the next week!

[evrgrn]

2.85 Stroker Continued

After a few late nights in the garage...


Engine transferred to crane


Clutch assembled


Transmission mounted

I was hoping to reseal the transmission and rebuild the shifter while everything was out. I realized I didn't have what I needed for either project though; for the shifter, I can't get the plastic carrier and shift lever apart without taking the whole thing out, which requires breaking off the old shift knob. And after digging around, I can see I need a rear shift carrier more anyway, and I'd probably like to do a DSSR. For the transmission seals, it seems necessary to use a silicon lubricant and Curil or a similar sealant to make sure it doesn't leak. So, I've decided to wait on those projects.

Next step is installing the engine and getting the standalone setup!

[evrgrn]

2.85 Stroker Continued

I've been working on the car after work every day this week. I can feel myself getting more and more burned out on this project, but I'm so close to driving it again!


Back where it goes. Ignore the odd mix of white and black, my girlfriend is painting my spare valve cover. Cleaned up the old one for now.


While pulling the engine around to get it on the mounts, the threads pulled out of the upper timing cover bolt. Turns out, you can use an exhaust stud and an intake nut!


The current situation. Cooling system is back together, standalone pigtails installed, intake installed. Still need to mount the ECU, power steering, and a few misc bits and bobs.


A quick mockup of future potential

Also, what is the general opinion regarding throttle body heater hoses? Mine has been bypassed since I got the car, and it takes FOREVER to warm up. I installed a new thermostat a while ago and it made no difference. I'm pretty sure my throttle body won't freeze here in SC, but in general I'd like to keep things OEM ish. At some point I'll probably use them for the feed and return to the turbo (no time soon), but in the meantime should I just leave it bypassed?

First start is getting very close!!

[Panici]

YMMV but I don't mind a throttle body heater bypass.
Worst case you hit the (narrow) conditions for the throttle to ice up. Then you just push in the clutch and pull over, same as a sticky throttle cable.

[Northern]

I had my TB heater hoses looped on my M20 for years and never had a problem.

[evrgrn]

2.85 Stroker Continued (+Parts List)

Got the car running! I'll get some better pictures later this week. When I first cranked it over with the fuel pump relay in, nothing happened and it made my garage smell like fuel. I swapped the fuel feed and return and the smell went away. Turns out I had it right the first time though, so not sure where fuel vapor was coming from. All sensors in the standalone seem to be working. The car went straight to 3k rpm, so I shut it off right away. I did a quick smoke test and found the oil return tube wasn't seated in the intake, and a few of the intake nuts were loose. I'm planning to add coolant today and put the first real heat cycle on the motor.

Here is the parts list for the engine build:
-Metric Mechanic 86mm Sport Pistons
-Supertech 135mm Connecting Rods
-ACL Rod bearings
-Metric Mechanic crank scraper + oil pan baffle
-Spec Stage 3+ Clutch (stock single mass flywheel resurfaced)
-ClassicDaily Turkey and Cheese standalone ECU
-Bosch 627cc Injectors

I also replaced every gasket and seal, top and bottom end, except for main seals.

My goal was to have a fresh start with a bottom end that can handle any future direction I want to do. I know I'm not reaching the potential power of the bottom end with a stock head, but I can always pull the head later if that's what I want to do. I'm leaning toward the idea of turbocharging in the future, and I added an oil drain bung to the oil pan to accommodate this. I'm in no hurry though, I just want to drive this car and get past the burnout / loss of motivation I've been feeling. I've owned the car for a while now and I've put less than 500 miles on it. And as I mentioned in an earlier post, my E38 has been very neglected since the E30 has been down.

[McGyver]

Make sure you re-do the valve lash once the hard is bolted on, the head is going to conform to the block and your gaps will be off. I would have left them loose and just done it on the engine.

[evrgrn]

Make sure you re-do the valve lash once the hard is bolted on, the head is going to conform to the block and your gaps will be off. I would have left them loose and just done it on the engine.

Will do, thanks for the advice!

[Panici]

Got the car running!

I'm leaning toward the idea of turbocharging in the future, and I added an oil drain bung to the oil pan to accommodate this. I'm in no hurry though, I just want to drive this car and get past the burnout / loss of motivation I've been feeling.

It's alive!

I took a similar path with my car. 24v swap with a standalone, get it running N/A for a few years, and then go for boost.

Too much at one time and it becomes a never ending project.

[evrgrn]

2.85 Stroker Continued


There's good news and bad news.

Good news is the car is driving! I put the power steering back together, adjusted the valves, then took it on a longer drive (around 20 minutes) and had no issues. I've been avoiding idle as much as possible and varying rpm between 2k and 5k. The bad news is the clutch situation. My friends were already making fun of me for paying $600 for a clutch. And now that it won't fully disengage and it chatters like crazy I'm starting to think they're right. I'm so frustrated that this is happening. Its the exact same issue as described here.

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/388684-clutch-not-disengaging-spec-stage-3

I need some help from those with more wisdom. Should I just try to return the clutch and get a 6 puck cheapo on ebay? Should I try a 323 throw out bearing? I saw that rouge engineering makes an adjustable length slave rod as well. I bought the clutch through VAC motorsports, not sure how helpful they will or won't be. Advice is appreciated as always!!