Bought a POS, this is R3Vs fault

[2mAn]

Yes, its no longer a complete set for $50...

$46.50 OBO tree fiddy discount

[reelizmpro]

I had that happen to an OE BMW badge from the 2000's when they really started cheaping out on them. Thankfully, they are much better now.

[2mAn]

Rear Motorsport still present...


Spent $15 on AlfaBB and added a plate frame from Monza Motors (Ferrari, Alfa, Fiat shop) that closed years ago. Feels like the right patina...





Thinking about painting the badge (restoring it??) But not sure what color Blue I need to get from Testors or something. Anyone know?

[2mAn]

Soooooo I know I said the suspension was done, but I actually never replaced the rear shocks. I found one of my Mustang rear Koni's for a great deal initially, but the Ground Control top mounts and the second Koni took a little longer to acquire. I was hoping to find another smoking deal, but after staring at the other pieces in my garage, I finally just bought one from Summit and had the second Koni the next day. Install took all of 1 hour, including stopping for my silly pics. A Bluntech relic was used in this pic as a tribute to the similar pic from the Aluminum Monster when I previously had done the same mod.


My favorite part of this mod is that the rear droop is significantly reduced so the shock can actually use the full range on a lowered car.


Also, being February and just crossing the 167k mark with a functioning odometer seemed like a good time to do an oil change. Life as a Dad meant the oil change happened at night

...and yes, I staged that pic for you guys (and the hope that it would get Penzoils attention on IG lol)

[DEV0 E30]

Woot.

how does it feel?

[2mAn]

Drove the E30 to work and parked it amongst all the EV pigs...


Took an extended lunch break to go grab a better steering rack. Found a nice rebuilt yellow tag (E46) rack for a great price. Fit perfect in the space behind the seat.




DEV0 E30 I've put about 100 miles on it and the springs are firm, and the shocks are nice and taut. I have them dialed smack dab in the middle. I havent done any canyon runs yet (severely overdue!) ... I have a month to get this steering rack installed so I can get my core charge back. Once I have that $$$ back, I want to buy the brake scoops specific to the cowcatcher and to start dialing in the goodies on the car.

At that point, I will just be focusing on the interior clean-up and saving up for an eventual, some day paintjob...

In a fun side-note, I actually ran into Charlie on my way to work today (he was driving his International to work too! haha) and he said the exhaust sounded good... but needed MOAR noise so theres that too...

[2mAn]

One of the many things I need to do on the car includes adjusting the handbrake. This is a very useful and seemingly easy item to cross off that long laundry list. I searched around a little and when I saw the wonderful words of jlevie I figured I should C&P it here.

Twiddling the cable adjusters is the last part of adjusting the parking brake (see below). If the shoes are worn out, figure on at least two hours to replace the shoes and adjusting the parking brake.

To adjust the parking brake:

1) Lower the hand brake and loosen the cable adjusters.

2) Working through a lug bolt hole turn the star adjuster until the wheel
locks using a flat-bladded screwdriver. I just turn the adjuster until it
doesn't want to turn any more. Then back off the adjuster 12 clicks. Repeat
for the other wheel. Note that the star adjuster is at the 6 o'clock position
on later cars, but at the 10-11 o'clock position on an E30.

3) Raise and lower the hand brake several times to settle the cables. Then
raise the lever two clicks and tighten the adjusters until the wheel can just
be turned with moderate force.

Pelican Parts has a different approach, which jlevie suggests in the final step, not the first. Stay tuned to see this done, hopefully this weekend.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec..._brake_adj.htm


The other thing that I will be addressing the door seals (which got lost in the edit above, so might be a repost).

I had been staring at these aftermarket ones being sold from a company overseas, so that order has been placed. I will be the guinea pig for you all... the sacrificial lamb because though they might be bad, theres a chance they might be good and a very good chance they will be better than what I have (see pic above of the seal).

Stay tuned boys

[McGyver]

First, is the quote button broken for everyone, or just me?

Second, Why u no get a new hood strut? They're like $15 and then you don't have to use a jack handle to hold the hood up?!?!

[roguetoaster]

Quote is broken about 65% of the time.

Jacking, er, using a jack handle is free.

[JasonWilson48]

Quote is broken about 65% of the time.

Jacking, er, using a jack handle is free.

Big if true. I’m always jacking while browsing R3V. No one has charged me for it… yet.

[2mAn]

Big if true. I’m always jacking while browsing R3V. No one has charged me for it… yet.

If you have a r3vlimited sticker on the new car, it will free jacking for life.

e-brake “fix” didn’t work, guessing the shoes are worn. Future problem…

I did start installing the sunroof panel finally, and also bled the brakes. No pics because, why?

I’ll take one soon when the new panel is full done

[MrBurgundy]

Simon's new free e brake

[Panici]

...I want to buy the brake scoops specific to the cowcatcher...

Are there OEM / aftermarket brake scoops for the cowcatcher?


IIRC the original undertray for the cowcatcher has some small brake ducting built in that grabs air from the bottom outermost slots.
On my car I never bothered to install the undertray since it just gets in the way.

[2mAn]

Are there OEM / aftermarket brake scoops for the cowcatcher?


IIRC the original undertray for the cowcatcher has some small brake ducting built in that grabs air from the bottom outermost slots.
On my car I never bothered to install the undertray since it just gets in the way.

You are correct, they were all functional scoops on the Cowcatcher. The IS center ducts were for the Oil Cooler, while the outer ones that were present on both versions were for the brakes. Similar to the late models which routed air to the fender liner.

If you have a 3D printer that can print large enough, you can reproduce them for a few $$ to get the file. I dont, so I have been watching this guy on ebay, he sells the scoops, the brackets and even the lower trim