Originally posted by e30guydownunder
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e30guydownunder: Project M42, probs definitely got more power than your S50
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Work continues. A day off work is just the time to get some shit bowled over. My radiator showed up during the week. A Nissan S14 no less. $200 ebay special, twin core blah blah, looks pretty fantastic for $200 shipped! Going to get a set of AU fans to go on it, a very simple conversion according to Nissan Buddies.
So now that I got that I can get cracking on mounting the thing. Take some old broken swaybar links???
BAM, you got yourself some lower radiator mounts, had to make it go around the radiator drain too:
I pressed the rubber bushes out while welding and drilled the centres to suit the radiator. Pretty stoked with how it turned out.
I made some top mounts for the radiator as well (that incorporate the intercooler mounts), but no pictures. So thats everything sitting in there nice and pretty.
The standard top hose works perfectly! Clears the new intake pipe very nicely indeed.
The 135 silicone bend showed up. Clears the radiator nicely. Might have to rejig to position of the oil filter / hoses, but nothing major:
And that was today. Had a quick look at the lower radiator hose and will get cracking on the sway bar mounts.
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I managed to drag my ass outta bed about 12....the wedding reception was perhaps a bit bigger than anticipated, but hey can't say no to free beer! All good as I got plenty done yesterday.
I threw a few of the other bits in to get a feel for how it is all coming together. Going well if you ask me!
Got the fans in and mounted, upper (standard 318 ) and lower (hacked up M20) radiator hoses finished, upper radiator and intercooler mounts done, all the intercooler pipes dummied up and threw the BOV in for an idea on required real estate. The accusump just out of shot, about where it will go.
A view from the front can see all the coolers air filter and other shit.
The intake pipe was a tight fit on the fan shroud
I modified it with a bit of heat and hammer :D The 10mm intake spacer coming will help add a bit of extra clearence also
Alternator in and spaced out. Going have to knock a bit off the spacers to get some more clearence on the chassis rail. Got plenty of clearence over the oil lines anyway.
The new fans and alternator position are occupying where I previously had the oil filter setup. So i have moved to to behind to headlight. making it nice and serviceable from below also. The hoses will work out ok too, with the turbo oil feed and stuff all pointing the right direction
And from under neath
While were down there, here is the lower radiator plumbing / electric water pump (i'm yet to make a mount, but it's in there!)
And a shot of the turbo pipes, fans and lower radiator hose all nice and tightly packaged in there
List of shit to do, throttle cable mount, plates for intake and water pump delete, EWP mount, relocate sway bar, finish sump, then just mounting little shit, plumbing it all up and a shit load of electrical work.
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Originally posted by e30guydownunder View PostA view from the front can see all the coolers air filter and other shit.
Dude, where's your car?
j/k i get it, just made me pmsl (minus the wee)Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by der affefirst try a finger or 2, you need to have them suck on it first and get it nice and wet to help it slip in.
if she goes for that, astroglide up your pole, have her lay on her stomach and slip it in slowly and bury it to your balls and leave it there until she relaxes. once she is used to it slam that ass like a screen door.
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The angry ape is a complicated and twisted sexual act; it requires a willing man and a sometimes unwilling dwarf, midget, or downie. To complete this unimaginable deed, one first probes the female's vagina with both fists in the doggy style position, and then proceeds to insert the hard on into the anus, whether it is clean or dirty, shaven or hairy. Once in this position, the male has entered the hunched-over ape stance that gives this act its name, and only needs to proceed with fucking both the anus with the erect penis and the vagina with the fists. While doing the female, it is a requirement but usually a side effect to make inhumane apelike noises. Once orgasm has been attained, discarding of the female to the proper trash receptacle is recommended.Pork Hunt Motorsport
eBay is like the summit racing catalog for today's special Olympics crowd
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nice build!!
What are you doing with the water return hose that goes from the pipe along the drivers side of the block back to the bottom of the overflow tank on the radiator? Are you just going to plug it? I was under the understanding that that was where the engine pulled all it's coolant until the tstat was open....www.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLC
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cheers.
jakeb that is something I have been doing alot of thinking about lately. With the install of an electric water pump and controller the Water pump will be removed and maybe even the thermostat. But first i need to work out exactly how the system works. Googling isn't proving very successful and seems to be not something commonly dealt with.
My initial thinking had been to run the line you are talking about to the turbo cooling inlet and then a line from the outlet to the top of the radiator. Now I am concerned there isn't any distinctive flow along this line (arrow goes both ways on the realoem diagram).
If you have any insight into this that would be appreciated :)
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I have done a bunch of m42 swaps into 2002s. On one of them I plugged that line thinking it wouldn't matter but then changed it so it pulled from the bottom of the radiator.....as it was really the only option. It works but the car runs a little cooler than it should.
The best option is to run a stock m42 radiator.....or at least something that always overflows to a small tank and then the line we are talking about picks up from there.
From what I understand that is the draw return from the radiator when the tstat is closed. So you must have that connected to draw coolant from the radiator otherwise the waterpump won't have any coolant unless the tstat is open. Or if you get rid of it all together.
I also wouldn't shut the pump off completly....can you vary the speed with the electric pump? What is the reason to run an electric pump btw?www.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLC
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Yeh I'm going to have to look into it by the sounds. I have a workshop training manual at home that might share some more information.
I bought a Pump and Controller kit. The controller also runs the fan. The controller varies the pump / fan to maintain a user defined temperature. So I guess it is variable in that sense. My thinking behind it is you can still cycle the cooling system after the engine is shutdown, cooling it down properly, an issue present in the Track environment.
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