Eta-to-M50: Build thread

[ShowStopper]

ok just tryin to help out. hope it works well for u then

[White325is]

Matt is right, your not suppose to use it the way you are using it. He was just looking out for you and saving you work in the long run.. Your suppose to do your bondo work and then primer it with a spot/filler primer. Then when the primer drys your suppose to use it to fill smaller scratches and pin holes left behind. Not for deeper and bigger stuff like your using it for. It will shrink and crack over time. prolly since its in the engine bay I would think within less than a few months because of the heat from the engine.
Found this with a quick search.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2112839_glazing-compound-auto-body-work.html

For what your doing there I would suggest this stuff.

[Jand3rson]

I'm not filling big dents and holes with it, just skimming with it and filling the scratches and small holes around and in the JB Weld. It just looks like it because I put on a lot so I would be sure to get in everything, and have plenty to sand off. And I didn't use any Bondo. It was welded, then JB Welded over to fill the tiny pinholes and seal everything up.

And that link you posted is the one I found, using the exact same product I'm using. I'm not using this stuff in place of Bondo in order to fill large holes and dents.

[5spoke]

is that glazing putty??:crazy:

i read but ur crazy for using it.

it will shrink and crack after awhile

ok just tryin to help out. hope it works well for u then

These posts really annoy me. If you want to give your two cents just fucking tell him, instead of having to make people ask you questions to get it out of you. Those one line posts are helping nothing but your post count.


The bay is looking good janderson, you always do great work so I will expect nothing less than that on this project. Thanks for the updates.

[Butler]

Looking good man.

[Jand3rson]

These posts really annoy me. If you want to give your two cents just fucking tell him, instead of having to make people ask you questions to get it out of you. Those one line posts are helping nothing but your post count.

I agree, posts like this drive me up a wall. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate you lending knowledge and trying to help, but just say it.

[ck_taft325is]

Uppppdate.

[Jand3rson]

1) JB Weld is NOT designed to be used for body work.
2) Glazing Putty is NOT designed to be used in the method you're using it.
3) I know this is your first "forray" into serious body work outside of plastic bumper modifications... but that work looks horrible. You mixed the glaze and hardener wrong, it hardened way to quick, and you kept trying to work it.

Personally, I'd strip it all off. Start over. It's going to look horrid once painted black. You're rather meticulous about your presentation, so take the above as constructive criticism and not derrogatory.

You're acting like "Mr. I'm Notching My Subframe Because I Don't Want To Listen To People Giving Me Valid Advice" right now... just an FYI. The post(s) above give you some good insight into why this solution isn't going to work.


-CL

How do you know I mixed the JB Weld wrong? I mixed equal parts of them together, and put it on quick. I didn't even post any pics of the JB Weld, and I only used it to stuff into and over the tiny little pinholes and cracks left by the welding, I didn't use it like Bondo. I took off almost everything that wasn't filling a tiny sheet metal hole or crack.

The only pics posted are of the glazing compound, which I admit I did use a lot of, but I sanded it almost all off, and only used it for the scratches and holes.

I'm not trying to not listen to you guys, I'm taking what you're saying seriously, not trying to act like I don't want the advice. I just didn't do it completely the way you think I did. The orange stuff in those pics, which is the glazing compound, was almost all sanded off. Don't think I don't appreciate the help guys, I do.

This is what the 2 sides look like now. Almost all of the glazing compound was sanded off, and just the areas that needed/appropriate for it were what it was used on. The lower part of the passenger side still has VERY slight low spots, made look much worse by the lighting, you can't even really see them in person. Also, that kind of gnarly looking spot under one of the low spots on the passenger side is existing body glue, not my stuff.

[Jand3rson]

The glazing putty wasn't mixed, it comes in a tube.

I've taken just about everything off on the area right in front of the strut tower on the passenger side, there was no JB there. The other areas are probably going to be stripped back down, too. I'm really frustrated at this point because I don't think I have the skills or knowledge to do it right, and don't know what to do about it at this point. The only thing I think I can do is find someone who can come to my house and do it.

[ShowStopper]

Just take ur time man.. dont get frustrated. Just do some research on other products like what white325is said.

You can do it. Its ur car have faith in urself.

[Jand3rson]

So, if I take those areas down to bare metal, in a few of the spots where the welding was done, I'm going to be left with several tiny pinholes and tiny cracks. What do I do about those? The welding we've done to this point is as good as it's going to get, because the welder just keeps burning through the sheet metal because it's so thin.

[Stephen]

So, if I take those areas down to bare metal, in a few of the spots where the welding was done, I'm going to be left with several tiny pinholes and tiny cracks. What do I do about those? The welding we've done to this point is as good as it's going to get, because the welder just keeps burning through the sheet metal because it's so thin.

I'm not sure how small you're talking, larger stuff the bondo hair/ fiber is good for, but may be way way overkill for the holes if they're truly that small. Can you get at it from the back?

[White325is]

You should use "evercoat z-grip" and when your done with that you should use "evercoat metal glaze". Then when your done you should use a high build filler primer. More than likely going to be a polyester base primer. Then rub a guide coat on it and sand all the panels. Then when your done sanding, you use the metal glaze again in spots missed and spray another coat of the filler primer and wet sand it. By this time you should of got everything and be ready for paint. I would use an epoxy sealer. You should get black of course. Then spray your color and clear.

tada. Thats what I did with my black car and the same thing with the sepang e30.

[dirtysix]

So, if I take those areas down to bare metal, in a few of the spots where the welding was done, I'm going to be left with several tiny pinholes and tiny cracks. What do I do about those? The welding we've done to this point is as good as it's going to get, because the welder just keeps burning through the sheet metal because it's so thin.

How tiny is tiny(cracks/pinholes)?

Some info on premixed/single stage fillers and primers is that they shrink untill all the thinners have evaporated, which can take days or weeks depending on how thick they are used. Why you can only use them for pin holes and thin skimming.

To fill low areas and very small holes you need to use a 2part polyester type body filler (Bondo is a brand of). I've been using Evercoat Z grip.

Apply/sand, apply/sand etc untill you're happy with the shape, prime, guide coat, sand, fill pinholes, prime, guidecoat, sand and with a bit of luck you're ready for top coats.

Apply the filler to either roughened clean steel or sound roughened paint.

This is horribly over simplified but hopefully somewhat helpfull.

Edit; fuck I'm slow ha.

[ck_taft325is]

You should use "evercoat z-grip" and when your done with that you should use "evercoat metal glaze". Then when your done you should use a high build filler primer. More than likely going to be a polyester base primer. Then rub a guide coat on it and sand all the panels. Then when your done sanding, you use the metal glaze again in spots missed and spray another coat of the filler primer and wet sand it. By this time you should of got everything and be ready for paint. I would use an epoxy sealer. You should get black of course. Then spray your color and clear.

tada. Thats what I did with my black car and the same thing with the sepang e30.

How tiny is tiny(cracks/pinholes)?

Some info on premixed/single stage fillers and primers is that they shrink untill all the thinners have evaporated, which can take days or weeks depending on how thick they are used. Why you can only use them for pin holes and thin skimming.

To fill low areas and very small holes you need to use a 2part polyester type body filler (Bondo is a brand of). I've been using Evercoat Z grip.

Apply/sand, apply/sand etc untill you're happy with the shape, prime, guide coat, sand, fill pinholes, prime, guidecoat, sand and with a bit of luck you're ready for top coats.

Apply the filler to either roughened clean steel or sound roughened paint.

This is horribly over simplified but hopefully somewhat helpfull.

Edit; fuck I'm slow ha.

Both of these.

Not to say skimping wont look good if you slap paint on it. Really, it wont look bad... for awhile. Say a year if you're lucky? It's that lasting touch and genuine love you put into your prep when it comes to any and all things painting. I had a shell I did these steps on religiously for 6 months only to find out it's was terminally doomed and I had to scrap it. I don't regret doing it none the less as the work put in taught me monumental things about body work, paint prep and ultimately, myself. I love doing, despite the fact that it's a whore and takes way to much time to do right.

I have faith you'll do it all good though. You're just that way.