"done right".....
That's a funny phrase. I expect I'll shortly be joining the band for coming in here and poo pooing this "legendary" build but what exactly are you thinking here? What is it that makes this "done right"?
You started out with Just Another Trar (common slang for a car body on a truck chassis). Shortened Scout, not bad. Frame sitting a foot below the floor pans like every other hack job out there? Hardly qualifies as Done Right.
You initially were going to run the heaviest smallblock in existence, with some of the most limited aftermarket support. Good call on ditching that.
But a Cummins? 4BT would be a solid choice. Plenty of power, weighs about the same as the Binder block. But you're seriously looking at putting a 1500# engine is a half ton frame that you didn't box. With no cage to stiffen it, either. And what will have to be huge tall body mounts as well, so the unibody car on top wont help out either. With half ton axles.
A computer controlled diesel swap is pretty complicated too but the ISB (24v) can pretty well run itself. If you're planning on a dashboard, and knowing what's going on - much less running a tuner intended for a Dodge application, that'll get interesting though. At least go for a 12v 6BT setup. Nearly as much power and it takes 3 wires to run it. Okay, 5 if you wan to start and charge too.
Think this pup through a bit first. You clearly have some talent but you're missing rather a lot of experience. Don't build a pile that if you can make it run, will flatten your springs, break your axles an pretzel your frame the second time you put your right foot into it.
Credentials attached. (571, an Ultra4 car I codrive - 350/th350/np205 tube chassis with d60/14 bolt; the dumpbus, my '97 Ram 3500 tow rig with '01 24v swap, mechanical pump conversion, 13sp Eaton trans; and Roadblock, my '98 Dakota crawler - 318/46re/203-205 doubler and d60/10.25 axles)
That's a funny phrase. I expect I'll shortly be joining the band for coming in here and poo pooing this "legendary" build but what exactly are you thinking here? What is it that makes this "done right"?
You started out with Just Another Trar (common slang for a car body on a truck chassis). Shortened Scout, not bad. Frame sitting a foot below the floor pans like every other hack job out there? Hardly qualifies as Done Right.
You initially were going to run the heaviest smallblock in existence, with some of the most limited aftermarket support. Good call on ditching that.
But a Cummins? 4BT would be a solid choice. Plenty of power, weighs about the same as the Binder block. But you're seriously looking at putting a 1500# engine is a half ton frame that you didn't box. With no cage to stiffen it, either. And what will have to be huge tall body mounts as well, so the unibody car on top wont help out either. With half ton axles.
A computer controlled diesel swap is pretty complicated too but the ISB (24v) can pretty well run itself. If you're planning on a dashboard, and knowing what's going on - much less running a tuner intended for a Dodge application, that'll get interesting though. At least go for a 12v 6BT setup. Nearly as much power and it takes 3 wires to run it. Okay, 5 if you wan to start and charge too.
Think this pup through a bit first. You clearly have some talent but you're missing rather a lot of experience. Don't build a pile that if you can make it run, will flatten your springs, break your axles an pretzel your frame the second time you put your right foot into it.
Credentials attached. (571, an Ultra4 car I codrive - 350/th350/np205 tube chassis with d60/14 bolt; the dumpbus, my '97 Ram 3500 tow rig with '01 24v swap, mechanical pump conversion, 13sp Eaton trans; and Roadblock, my '98 Dakota crawler - 318/46re/203-205 doubler and d60/10.25 axles)
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