'91 318is, 16V swap.

[lambo]

May the gods have mercy on my soul

[davi tech]

love it!

[FunfGan]

About damn time!

Yeah yeah ;)

loookking damn good. Sounds even better.

Thanks bud!

yes finally!!!!

:)

That thing sounds pretty nasty

Thanks man.

bee on look out burnout v2.. adjusted a couple things.. spencer and i will bring yall a better one

Actually, the next one will be done by me :)

May the gods have mercy on my soul

No :hitler:

love it!

Thanks!

[dnick]

lol im in your sig. sweet.

[FunfGan]

lol im in your sig. sweet.

Well it was a damn nice shot ahaha. A little editing and boom.

[dnick]

Well it was a damn nice shot ahaha. A little editing and boom.

hahah yeah.. so when you comin home?

[hfabricius]

Sweet fancy Moses, that sounds amazing!!

[FunfGan]

hahah yeah.. so when you comin home?

I'm home from like, October 13- 16th

Sweet fancy Moses, that sounds amazing!!

Thanks man! appreciate it.

[ballski]

I ended up using a Holley FPR. I'll try to find the link if you're interested, but should be fairly easy to find on Summit. Anyway, It doesn't have a gauge port(bit disappointing) but it works quite well and has a return line which is very nice, if not essential because of the amount of pressure it would need to hold with no return.

ok I figured I'd try to get one with a gauge, but yes the return line is necessary since we're going down to ~7psi from ~50 lol

Sounds great! Thanks for the extra motivation

Do you still have open headers? Or how did you run your exhaust on the driver side?

[FunfGan]

ok I figured I'd try to get one with a gauge, but yes the return line is necessary since we're going down to ~7psi from ~50 lol

Sounds great! Thanks for the extra motivation

Do you still have open headers? Or how did you run your exhaust on the driver side?

Still open headers with a bend to prevent burnt valves. And yeah, there are quite a few on there with gauge ports, I had just assumed this one had one and it didn't...


Well I was told I didn't need one with a return line, but er, I'm assuming that's why the first FPR I had failed on me after a few drives. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

[FunfGan]

Here's the first part of my suggestion/ help guide for the swap. I have a lot of other things to add, just short on time at the moment. I'll update when I can!


Engine/ Driveline:

1. Buy engine/ bellhousing/ trans together, this cuts down on the chance you may accidently(or be lied to) buy the wrong trans or bell housing.

2. Don’t be scared of the wiring, it’s really not as difficult as it seems.

3. Trim down or cut off the CSB mounts, that will provide much more room for the driveshaft, even if it’s just piece of mind for an emergency.

4. 3.73 is a perfect street/ track gear. However, if you’re looking at a lot of highway miles, it may be a bit too low of gearing, so look into alternatives.

5. If at all possible, use Explorer accessories. If you’ve read my thread, you realize the issues I’ve run into with clearance from the rad to the water pump pulley.

6. If you’re running a skidplate, it must be meant for an M42 and you must remember to notch a hole so you can change your oil. Also know that the top power steering bolts will be inaccessible once the engine is in, so install it before hand.

7. An early model, m20 rad is you best (stock) bet. I then used an inline filler cap from Morroso. I ran a random, universal overflow from Summit Racing.

8. Make the core support removable BEFORE you start putting the engine in. There are a number of ways to do this, just search google. This allows you to much more easily install the engine/ trans combo(albeit, we were able to do it multiple times, but it takes about an hour and involves lots of anger and swearing).

9. Ideal driveshaft diameter is 3”.

-Wiring:

1. Again, it’s not as difficult as it seems. Just go over the diagram a few times, and go for it!

2. Don’t be surprised if you need to buy 2 or 3 engine side c101 connectors. Not all cars had the correct pins that I needed to do FI wiring. Alternatively, you can simply order new pins from BMW.

3. Cheapest way to wire the tach is to cut the control wire straight off the connecter, then run it back in the loom to the distributor and tap into the ground wire.

4. As with any swap, wiring can be a bit messy, even after clean up. Tuck all the light/ horn wires before you start to keep clutter down.

- Brakes:

1. I recommend keeping away from Remote Mount Booster setups for a number of reasons(go boosterless if you can find the kit), but if you must go the remote mount route, junkyards will have the full setup for much cheaper. Also make sure to grab the ENTIRE assembly.

- Pedal assembly:

1. The ideal setup is to skip the entire Wilwood kit, and simply order a full pedal box, and separately order the Wilwood slave cylinder. If you go that route, ignore the rest of this section’s suggestions.

2. Instead of ordering the whole Wilwood kit, you can get away with ordering just the slave cylinder and modding the attachment point on the stock clutch pedal to have enough throw to fully actuate the slave cylinder.

3. If you do use the whole Wilwood kit, make sure to reinforce the mounting points and the sheet metal surrounding it.

Shifter/ Clutch:

1. While the shifter lines up fairly well in the stock shifter cut out, it’s not perfect and will most likely not allow full access of all the gears. To fix this, I cut a square chunk out of the trans tunnel in front of it, and then riveted and sealed a new piece with circular notch in front of it. Follow this up with a spare grommet to keep water/ noise/ exhaust out.

2. Make sure to cut down the corner of the clutch fork to prevent binding on the trans tunnel. This may even void the need to hammer that section of the tunnel out, providing much more room for the new gas pedal.

3. The stock t5 shifter is 2 piece. The top piece sits at an angle towards the driver. Because of how high the shifter sits, this can become annoying and also get a little too close to the steering wheel. To solve this, simply cut and weld to your desire!

[ballski]

I'm not familiar with setting up cooling systems. So you used the inline filler and a separate overflow tank?

Thanks for all the great info man; it's much appreciated

[eurotrash]

Merica

Just an fyi you dont have to run a return but you have to use a fpr designed as a deadhead fpr. Also you already have a return setup. Its easier on your fuel pump and better mileage. Please get a quality fpr. Ask funfag why.

[FunfGan]

I'm not familiar with setting up cooling systems. So you used the inline filler and a separate overflow tank?

Thanks for all the great info man; it's much appreciated

Yes sir! I'll get a few pics up in this update.

Just an fyi you dont have to run a return but you have to use a fpr designed as a deadhead fpr. Also you already have a return setup. Its easier on your fuel pump and better mileage. Please get a quality fpr. Ask funfag why.

Yeah, you definitely should.


Inline filler setup:




Added some stickers





Had this digital voltmeter installed





Overflow setup.

[lambo]

Your pedals look wonky as fuck?