FORGED FULLY 🐬 grey S50,shaved, KW, brembos, garret g30/770 fr&rear 5 lug,

[e30m20TurbO7]

[e30m20TurbO7]

Fuck my life moment

[Mlarsen]

That sucks man, hope everything works out.

[Cronopoulos]

Don't take it personal man, shit happens when you build motors. I have fucked up my share of things and mother nature has provides plenty of hammers to my nails as well... You live and learn even though it's not your fault all the time ;)

Find the problem, fix the problem, enjoy!

[kid325e]

Damn!! Sorry to hear the bad news. Glad to see you so quick to take responsibility. Keep your head up. I'm sure you'll be back on the road by summer time.

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[Court M3]

Good job taking responsibility as others have said, keep at it, only way you are going to learn is by getting in there and finding out what's wrong.

[Vtec?lol]

yeah dude. Never get emotional into e30s. Never. And never get online and start crying about it either.

More than likely if that cam lobe went dry then you have a worn cam and rocker. Replace, adjust, and enjoy the rest of your build.

Sacrifice and hard work don't guarantee perfect results.

[tinkwithanr]

Sorry to hear about your luck. But I don't think a clogged oil sprayer would cause the valve and valve seat to get worn. There shouldn't really be any oil there (unless your seals/guides are worn) so the lack of oil wouldn't effect it. The oil spray bar is there to supply the rocker and cam face with oil, so those are the two parts I would point to for any bad noises. Pull the head and take out the cam and rocker shaft to see what they look like.

[e30m20TurbO7]

So I have a bad rocker and a bad cam I'm assuming ,
I've got all good compression in all the cylinders
#1 92
#2 90
#3 89
#4 91
#5 93 cylinder with rocker noise
#6 90
I think I have a worn rocker and or cam
How can I make the noise qeuiter , I adjusted my valves way to tight when I first stabbed them in , then once I adjusted to correct spec rocker got louder
I really don't want to spend any money on diagnosing fees .
What do I look for on a worn rocker

[FLG]

Those are some really bad compression numbers.

Who did the machine work when you built the motor? New rings?

If you add some oil in the cylinders do comp number go up? If they don't its a head issue. If they do (by a substantial amount) its a ring issue.
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[2mAn]

they say do it right or do it twice... at least you're young. you have plenty of time to make mistakes. key is not make the same mistake twice. in your case, tearing down the motor was good because you learned how to put it back together and succeeded. problem was you re-used piston rings and bearings. when you have it that far apart, its best to spend a little extra money on new parts.

edit: also take some goof off, or oven cleaner to that one painted wheel so they are all silver

[e30m20TurbO7]

First of all, I used brand new bearings on the rods and mains , there's nothing wrong with re-using piston rings off a motor that ran and if its going on to the same cylinder that it began in , I have perfect compression , no rod knocks nothing was half ass on my build .
The only thing I should have done was buy a new oil pump.
New bearings
New guides
New stem seals
3 angle valve job
I have hundreds in just machine shop fees .
All new seals throughout the whole motor without a single leak , I didn't do anything incorrect on my build.
My oil squirter tube was clogged from debris in the oil so I burned a cam lobe and rocker , wooptee doo
I spent more money than you could possibly think is possible for this motor.
Reusing my rings may have been a risk but how come I have perfect compression , hmmmmmm well I have nothing to prove to you , but I take offense to people who have negitive opinions to say how about how I built my engine when I doubt you even attempted something as challenging and time consuming , as I have .
My rims are multi colored because its below 35 outside . I doubt goo off is going to take 3 layers of paint off my wheels .

they say do it right or do it twice... at least you're young. you have plenty of time to make mistakes. key is not make the same mistake twice. in your case, tearing down the motor was good because you learned how to put it back together and succeeded. problem was you re-used piston rings and bearings. when you have it that far apart, its best to spend a little extra money on new parts.

edit: also take some goof off, or oven cleaner to that one painted wheel so they are all silver

[e30m20TurbO7]

I did a cold dry compression test with all the spark plugs out with the throttle wide open to get more a more accurate reading , when the throttle is closed it changes compression . I'm running a stroked eta block on a 885 head
The compression is going to be lower than normal .
How come I have equal pressure that I'm not losing.
None of those valves leak and it was done by a quality shop that's been around for 50 years

Those are some really bad compression numbers.

Who did the machine work when you built the motor? New rings?

If you add some oil in the cylinders do comp number go up? If they don't its a head issue. If they do (by a substantial amount) its a ring issue.
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[e30m20TurbO7]

But if someone will take 30 minutes of time with your iPhone and a 10mm socket
Will someone send me a video of your e30 running with the valve cover off and close up of the squirter tube , my fellow mechanic friend thinks my oil pump is weak and he thinks that' because my oil light flickers at idle so because it's weak is why the cam lobe went dry and that the oil squirter isn't squirting properly due to weak pump. I disagree because I found my tube was clogged over cylinder 5 so I blew it out and ran it with fresh oil and filter , and it would drip more than squirt when I would feather the idle with the
Valve cover off but it would squirt more when it's revved slowly but my friend thinks that the squirting isn't consistent due to a tired pump , anyone have any opinions about this .
He thinks there's no point in fixing the rocker and cam with out replacing the oil pump, because he's confident the pump is the suspect
IMO the oil tube clogged on 5 because I had THICK break in oil in it and everyone knows how dirty break in oil gets

[FLG]

I know they are within correct tolerances between cylinders but you a stock m20 should be around 140-150 psi... unless you build this motor with lower compression in mind? Yes they are close to each other but far off factory spec.

I'll be honest I couldn't read thru pages of thread on my phone to see what the final specs wound up being.


Never mind just re read your last post. Yes a 885 head on an eta block will do that.


Hook up a mechanical gauge and watch your oil pressure. Can't necessarily rely on the stock warning light for being completely accurate.

I think the guys at catuned uploaded a video of an m20 running without a valve cover not long ago. Maybe do a search. I don't remember where it was posted or the title.

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