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Emma Watson and 2 E34's (Low Mount Turbo M50 Project)

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  • Hoffbrohaus
    replied
    Originally posted by Dj Buttchug View Post
    Home Depot plumbing parts and a valve stem to leak check the IC piping. I had so many small leaks at the couplers mostly on the hot side and at my blow off.
    When you did your leak check did you keep the charge pipe attached to the intake manifold or block it off? If you kept it did you just make sure your air compressor didn't go over 6psi? I'm just afraid of too much pressure going in to the engine.

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    Much better!

    The welded bolt to the manifold idea is pretty nifty idea to hold a heat shield!

    Are you running dual catch cans?
    No catch can at the moment. I am running the Crankcase vent off the valve cover to atmosphere under the car. There isnt much oil coming out of it and it doesnt cause any unpleasant odors so I will likely leave it as is for now. If I did run a catch can I would likely mount it near the ps reservoir.

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Much better!

    The welded bolt to the manifold idea is pretty nifty idea to hold a heat shield!

    Are you running dual catch cans?

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Home Depot plumbing parts and a valve stem to leak check the IC piping. I had so many small leaks at the couplers mostly on the hot side and at my blow off.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Alright. No more dicking around with IC pipe routing. This is the most efficient design I can come up with for bottom mount turbo.


    A couple pics.


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  • e30m3s54turbo
    replied
    Awesome work!

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    Id probably add a little more slack into those oil lines to the Tstat to compensate for engine movement and vibrations. That plastic end tank may not fair well. :)
    Ended up adding some like you mentioned. Had an issue with leaking on some of the AN fittings but all good to go now.

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    More heat control stuff. Managed to finish this custom heat shield. It is almost factory looking so I am happy with the results. Here are a few photos of the process. Not bad for a home-brew garage build.





    Last edited by Dj Buttchug; 12-30-2023, 04:04 PM.

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Scored an m52 with 160k on it from a 328i parts car locally for $100 bucks LOL. Will build this for insurance when the current m50 blows up ( likely but hopefully not)

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Garagistic came out with a pretty slick self-centering shift assembly. I pre ordered this back in September. Nice unit that feels really tight. Installed last night. All is looking ok so far.

    ​All factory insulation fits around the assembly which is nice. This shifter is not advertised to work with E34 Chassis but it bolts right in. No modification needed other than adding the extended shift link eyelet that comes with the kit. The white wiring is the harness for the IC spray momentary switch that will be mounting on the shifter similar to my previous design with a stock shift knob. I am still thinking on how to fasten it properly.
    Last edited by Dj Buttchug; 12-21-2023, 08:22 AM.

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    You could do 30* off the OFH so the lines sweep down and back up.

    My assumption is that your oil temps will be ok. And when you're ready to battle them Id go S54 OFH, it has tstat built that would help tidy up routing and packaging.

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    Id probably add a little more slack into those oil lines to the Tstat to compensate for engine movement and vibrations. That plastic end tank may not fair well. :)
    They could be a little short. My slider for the thermostat should move toward the oil filter housing enough to make it work but I may have to re do. I hate building AN lines LOL

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Id probably add a little more slack into those oil lines to the Tstat to compensate for engine movement and vibrations. That plastic end tank may not fair well. :)

    Click image for larger version

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Managed to shoe horn an exhaust housing blanket in after the new turbo install. All usable space is gone. Not ideal. The correct oil lines and restrictors has fixed my small over oiling problem which means work on this part of the project is done.




    Self centering shift kit from Garagistic has shipped and is due here in a few days time. Once this is installed the car will be off jackstands and off to Dose BMW in El Cajon CA for proper engine tuning.

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    Thanks guys,

    The total bill on the car has risen to well into the 16k range. I made the mistake of totaling it all up the other day. So to celebrate, lets add more parts we dont really need...

    Oil cooler with in line thermostat.



    The bumper needed a tiny bit of shaving from the plastic fins to fit the cooler here. Spacing just forward enough to clear the AC fan. My original plan was to run it right behind the kidneys but there is not enough room here with the PS cooler. The lower bumper location is more visible (which I originally didn't want) but after I made the mounts and test fit it ended up looking pretty good. Subtle and unnoticed to the untrained eye.

    Specs on the cooler:

    Clean Injection filter top
    -10AN lines and fittings
    DNA motoring ( eBay) 10 row cooler
    Mishimoto in line thermostat. 185 degree
    We get decently cold winters here in UT and the summers are wicked hot. Im hoping the t-stat will work right. The oil thermostat is set up on a slider mount so I can shift the system from one side to the other when installing or removing AN lines. Makes it a hell of a lot easier to work with. The lines going into the filter housing look taunt but there is slack to allow for some chassis engine movement. Should work ok. The plan is to run the lines down to the cooler underneath the power steering cooler lines and through the plastic air guide behind the bumper. This routing should give me the shortest possible route to the cooler and back to the engine while still leaving enough room behind the headlight to change a bulb or adjust.

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