I hadn't even notice that it was your car until today I noticed your name! Shit dude you've done a hell of a job!!
88' Zinno M3 (Progress Thread)
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Look what we got here
Everything was good with them, except for one clip to hold the bulb was missing. And I didnt have a spare.
So I made one from a paperclip.
The driver side lenses are in great shape, as with the pass low beam. The pass high beam has only a little pitting, but since the others are in such good shape, its noticeable. So ill either be cleaning that up or finding a new high beam. I made a wtb ad, so if anyone has a bosch high beam let me know.Current:
1989 325i
1988 M3
1987 325ic
Past:
2001 330ci
2001 M3Comment
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Car looks awesome! So minty fresh compared to mine :('90 Alpine White M3
OEM Hella Smoked Euro Smileys | OEM Headlamp Washers | Startec Tail Lights |
EVO III Undertray | EVO III Front Lip | '92 DTM CF Gurney Flap | Recaro N'Joys |
Ground Control Coilovers | OZ Futuras
DD: '97 Alpine White M3/4/5Comment
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Not much of an update, but it seems like I was able to fix the foggy high beam. Ive been messing around with ways to pour windex into the lense and getting it out without fogging up again. Seems like I got it to stay clear, at least for now. I also took apart the projectors for the low beams and cleaned them up. That alone increased light output significantly.
And I wasnt able to wire the city lights initially because of some crappy quick splices not working. So I got some t splices, and got them working.
Current:
1989 325i
1988 M3
1987 325ic
Past:
2001 330ci
2001 M3Comment
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Current:
1989 325i
1988 M3
1987 325ic
Past:
2001 330ci
2001 M3Comment
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t-splices allow for a lot of moisture to enter the splice, and over time corrode the wire, which could eventually break. These splices as well often cut through some of the wire, causing them to fail prematurely. With that all said, I to have used them for things, for the reason, "well I may go back to stock," or because its less work than solder.Comment
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t-splices allow for a lot of moisture to enter the splice, and over time corrode the wire, which could eventually break. These splices as well often cut through some of the wire, causing them to fail prematurely. With that all said, I to have used them for things, for the reason, "well I may go back to stock," or because its less work than solder.
Also worth mentioning, I do not have a soldering iron, nor the skills to solder.Current:
1989 325i
1988 M3
1987 325ic
Past:
2001 330ci
2001 M3Comment
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Were these lights not installed in any cars at the factory, or just not wired that way from the factory?
Assuming they were tapped into the headlight wires, you could pull the pins on the headlight wires at either end, cut the old pins off and crimp on new pins with both wires in them. That way you end up with sealed connectors and the wiring looks stock.
So with everything you've done to this car, "I don't have the skills" is your fallback? You can do better than that. ;)Comment
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I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.Comment
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Here's what solder and electrical tape looks like in a couple of years:
The copper had basically corroded out from the solder splice.
I replaced with this:
Uninsulated butt crimp splices and shrink tube (not yet shrunk in the photo)... much neater, much longer lasting, much more professional and no chance of burning myself with solder.Comment
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Solder wicks into the strands of a wire and makes it brittle, susceptible to cracking from fatigue related to vibration. This is a well-documented phenomenon, part of the reason why OEM's just don't use solder on their harnesses and why soldering for aviation and aerospace applications is very very tightly controlled.Comment
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