Panici's '87 325is E30 - Boosted In Bronze

[Northern]

Sometimes a single AN fitting or coupler can hold things up when there isn't a local race shop.

Tell me about it. I've had a few of these with small items from some obscure spot in the US or further that made me end up sitting there for weeks waiting on the one part to bolt x to y.

[Panici]

ooh it's really coming together now

Hoping I have all the parts on hand for the turbocharger setup. Sometimes a single AN fitting or coupler can hold things up when there isn't a local race shop.

That backseat is amazing

I've always liked it as well. Something special about the cloth houndstooth compared to "regular" black leather IMO.
Seat back is supported by the old-school horsehair (are all E30 rear seats like this?), gives the car that classic upholstery smell when it sits closed up for a while.

[2mAn]

That backseat is amazing

[Northern]

ooh it's really coming together now

[Panici]

I just did the Garagistic chassis-mount shifter, with new selector joint and DSSR from them. Was a little disappointed with the DSSR, pretty thin-walled on the clevises and within a week mine developed some slop due to the holes in the DSSR ovaling out on one end. Not the end of the world and you’d probably have to pay a lot more for a better DSSR.

Ah sorry to hear about the DSSR ovaling out. Will keep an eye on mine and can reinforce if needed.
I installed my seat today, and it looks like I'll be lengthening and slightly twisting the DSSR to get the shifter where I want it.
But I'm going to wait until the car is driving so I can feel out the shifting on the road.


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Interior (Mostly) Installed.

My focus today was getting the interior together. I managed to find everything in the various storage spots except the door tweeter pods.
Can't remember if I took them off before it went to the bodyshop or not. If anyone has a set they'd be willing to part with please let me know.

Before the interior install, I was thinking my parcel shelf (which I previously refinished in grey) wouldn't work with the new CAtuned black headliner. As it turns out, it helps to tie in the lighter Anthracite grey/houndstooth cloth of the seats. The headliner is pretty dark, I had to shine a shop light right at it just to make it visible on my phone camera!

As a final task, I started assembling the trunk trim, but stopped as I wanted to paint the white seam sealer in the trunk (from the quarter panel repair) with some black oil-based paint. Will do a second coat tomorrow for maximum coverage.
Not that any of it will be visible through the trunk carpet, but I like the black better than white.

















Tweaters MIA. WTB two covers & tweeters.

[mikey.antonakakis]

I just did the Garagistic chassis-mount shifter, with new selector joint and DSSR from them. Was a little disappointed with the DSSR, pretty thin-walled on the clevises and within a week mine developed some slop due to the holes in the DSSR ovaling out on one end. Not the end of the world and you’d probably have to pay a lot more for a better DSSR.

[Panici]

Chassis Mount Shifter & Carpet

• Finished up the battery cable tuck under the driver's side footwell.
• Installed a new gas filler neck gasket.
• Installed a CRS Chassis Mount Shifter w/Delrin knob.
• Scrubbed & Installed the original carpet

I dug up an old M50/G260 swap DSSR from garagistic that I didn't end up using when I first put the M52 in the car.
It had the requisite twist in the rod for the swap, which was easily remedied with the welder. Also needed to clearance one of the pins to fit the CRS needle bearings.

Installed the chassis mount shifter with some large washers to spread out the load. Lengthened the adjustable throw which was set to shortest as default.

Still need to customize the throw, shifter length, and position once the interior has been installed.
Thinking the current height is a bit too aggressive for the look I'm going for, but since it's steel I can cut/weld it to preference.


Now that the interior is ready to go back in, I dug my original carpet out of the basement.
One hour of vacuuming and carpet cleaner later, and it looks passable. Now need some floormats to hide the worst spots on the carpet.
Ended up trimming the top edge (on both sides) to clear everything I have tucked up under the dash.
May eventually paint the carpet black, but for now I'm excited to just have carpet in the car for the first time since 2014!

[Panici]

Have been off the site for a bit, finally logged in and yours was one of the first builds I looked up. Progress looks great brother! I would have been pooping my pants getting the engine in without scratching the paint...

Welcome back!
Thank you, it's been slow but steady since the warm weather arrived.
Starting this week I booked off Fridays from work (through the summer), so I'm planning to ramp up the build.

It was definitely a careful process getting the engine in with the fresh paint. Having the turbo manifold sit so close to the chassis was also an obstacle. Those padded moving blankets were critical!
Wouldn't have been able to do it without the removable core support.

The only tiny paint chip I have so far is from a ring connector catching on the driver's side strut tower when pushing wires through the firewall grommet. I'm sure more are inevitable as I can't wait to put some miles on the car! Hopefully I can get some touchup paint made, as it's a custom paint colour.

[Albie325]

Have been off the site for a bit, finally logged in and yours was one of the first builds I looked up. Progress looks great brother! I would have been pooping my pants getting the engine in without scratching the paint...

[Panici]

Engine Bay Wiring + Fuel Pump Wiring



I got in ~10 hours of wrench time on the E30 this weekend!

As I mentioned previously, I shaved the hole in the engine bay for the main positive power cables.
This meant I needed to get power into the bay in an alternate spot, keeping in mind that these are some heavy gauge (factory unfused) cables.
I had considered punching a hole in the firewall and using an appropriate fitting, but ended up with a better solution.

I dug into my parts bin and found the main battery feed from my '86 325e parts car. I was able to tuck this behind the heater core and into the driver's side under dash area. I bought a 300A fuse holder suitable for 0AWG and used this to splice the original and spare main power cables together under the passenger side dash.

Back on the driver's side, I fed the fusebox main power feeds and the large starter feed through the factory firewall grommet. I connected these all together under the dash (secured appropriately) and wrapped the connections in a hefty amount of high quality electrical tape (even though they are away from any metal). As this is now a fused connection I'm not worried about it grounding out, although I may size down that 300A fuse to something smaller for more protection.

I still need to wire in the small gauge battery feed (with the factory fusible link in the trunk) to the relay box power. It has been pulled through the firewall, but I ran out of appropriate terminals to finish the job.


Looking back on my rewiring of the Aeromotive fuel pump (on Post 352), I wasn't happy with the grounding wire just clamped to the metal shell. Last thing I want is a spark inside the fuel tank due to a bad connection! So I ran a small bolt through the housing in a tapped hole, and used this as the fuel pump ground. Ended up being a messy job as the fuel tank was at a positive pressure and I neglected to crack the gas cap first.


I installed the coil packs and harness, and checked clearance to my downpipe. It will be tight but it does clear with a small air gap. I threw on some Thermo-Tec heat wrap, and will be wrapping the downpipe as well.


Next I started on the main engine harness. I pulled it through the firewall, and started buttoning things up on the factory wire tray.
Mounted up my relocated fuse box, and crank sensor.

Even went to buy a replacement label maker as my old unit was inop.

[Panici]

looking great! keep up the work

Thanks you! Another day of work and I should have most of the engine wiring done.
I've been reworking the main power routing as I shaved the original engine battery tray hole.

***Disclaimer: R3V is getting soft in its old age ***
You should get your sis an E30 and have her get an account here. We will treat her nice. Promise

I don't know about that, but she does now drive a Subaru Forester with a manual transmission, so I call that a win.

I like the progress. Wild that everything fits so well without cutting battery tray, bending the frame rail lip, etc.

I wouldn't go with "so well".
I've had to make a spacer for the passenger side motor mount (1/4" steel plate) to get the clearance needed.
Need to do the same with the rear trans mount to keep things aligned (I have washers in there now while the car is parked). I imagine this will make the already-tight intake manifold to brake booster clearance even worse. May need to get creative with modifying the intake manifold.

The downpipe is actually touching both the battery tray and the coil beauty cover right now. It needs some heat and serious hammering to make room.

[Northern]

I like the progress. Wild that everything fits so well without cutting battery tray, bending the frame rail lip, etc.

[2mAn]

***Disclaimer: R3V is getting soft in its old age ***

You should get your sis an E30 and have her get an account here. We will treat her nice. Promise

[paynemw]

looking great! keep up the work

[Panici]

Made a 1/4" steel spacer for the passenger side motor mount. Along with grinding back the turbine housing flange, this gives sufficient clearance for the engine to torque over on the rubber E28 mounts.
It is to be determined how this affects clearance in other places. So far I've had to shim the driver's side of the transmission mount with washers to get things lined up. (Will be replacing washers with a 1/4" plate for that mount before I drive the car.)

Did a test-fit of the downpipe, and found it to hit just about everything. Some light hammering and I can at least mount it flush to the turbo. Going to need some heat and serious smashing to get some clearance. I'm also looking into which heat wrap is best for the downpipe.

Installed the brake booster, plumbed up the brake & clutch system. This included installing the front calipers and swaybar. (Chase bays soft brake line for the passsenger side front runs along the swaybar.) Added some DEI heat shielding to the brake line on the exhaust side of the engine.


Cleaned up the glovebox ECU wiring.
Changed the ECU output pin for the Main relay to Pin 34 (INJ2). This powers the Coil packs, Fuel injectors, FPR, ICV.

I left the Wideband O2 controller on Pin 20 (INJ H) of the ECU so that I can delay the sensor (heater) powerup until the exhaust has a chance to heat up.
This will prevent thermal shock to the sensor and increase it's lifespan.