Panici's '87 325is E30 - Boosted In Bronze

[Holland]

Just read the whole thread, and it's been addicting. Also stealing your washer res location/idea.

[ForcedFirebird]

TA bushes are easier with threaded rod than a press, but honestly I still burn them out - don't light the rubber on fire, just heat the metal tube for a bit and they will push out with almost no effort.

[Panici]

Subframe Upgrades - Day 1


Made more progress today then I anticipated! Dropped the entire subframe assembly from the car.
Used a set of Racegerman "Deluxe Jack Stand Pads" for the first time, and they seem to work well.

I refreshed the subframe in 2016 (link to post 114), and have only put on 20k KM on it since then.
Everything came apart easily, nice to not be working with rusty and destroyed parts for once.

Almost had to drop the entire driveshaft to get the subframe out (and will have to drop it when everything is ready to go back in). Driveshaft doesn't have enough range to collapse. Is this a known issue with 24v swap/ZF320/328i shaft?


Any pro tips to remove fresh OEM rubber bushings from the subframe/trailing arms/diff?
I do at least have a shop press this time, in 2016 I used a BFH and bench vise for everything.

[Panici]

That's still a conservative tune ;) if you think it's rowdy now....

If I ever feel like I want more traction, the early model rear arches will take some meaty tires (and all four were rolled before paint as well).
But personally I love oversteer-on-demand.


Definitely will be some track time next summer after I get PPF on the front end.

I will never turn the car into a track toy, but need to stretch it's legs properly. 😇

[ForcedFirebird]

That's still a conservative tune ;) if you think it's rowdy now....

[Panici]

That colour looks more amazing every time I see it! The perfect closer for this body would be euro bumpers because they'd look amazing IMO, but impossible to come by and insanely expensive. Whenever you do weld up that passenger wheel well hole, I'd love to get some tips because I've got a nice little hole in my driver side wheel well. Excited to see all the progress!

Thank you!
I personally love the diving boards so they will be staying.
Hoping the colourmatched surrounds tie them in to the body a bit better then the original black.

-------------------

Tuning For Boost


Looking back on this thread for 2022, and realized I only skimmed over the tuning fun post-turbocharger!

Before first startup, I used the "ID1050x - Megasquirt Characterization Table" spreadsheet to calculate dead time & small pulsewidths using my base fuel pressure.
These ended up being almost perfect, with my off-boost table areas within a few AFR points of the tune I make last year with the original OEM injectors.

I had been playing with my eBay turbo Miata all summer, which I tuned from scratch. That car is running a low-cost Speeduino ecu but uses the same tuning software as the MS3X. Have a dash-mounted tablet running tunerstudio (not concerned with a non-original interior look in that car obviously)
I actually ported over the TS dashboard to have a consistent gauge setup across both vehicles.

With both AFR protection and knock sensors on the MS3X it's pretty luxurious compared to a budget speeduino.


I was having a little trouble with misfiring up top, so I got a hold of the coil dwell numbers for the original M52B28 ECU.
Ended up bumping up my coil dwell time from 1.5ms to 3ms (@14v) and adjusting the multiplier table based on the original ECU.
That said, I am going a little easier on the coils compared to the OEM ECU when system voltage drops below 14v.

The car currently has 4psi springs in the TiAL wastegates, with boost dropping to ~3.6psi at higher revs due to the cold side/intercooler restriction.
Moving my gate reference from the compressor housing to the charge pipe right before the throttlebody should fix this issue.


Clicked off just over 1000km before the end of the season, and have a decent but very conservative tune (for both fuel and ignition) going for all the areas I've touched below 4psi.

Also realized looking at these screenshots that my VE and ignition tables aren't binned the same way. Will need to change that before further tuning.


Started the testing with the 3.73 rear end, and the car would light up the tires in 1st and 2nd, and quickly pull to the 7000rpm limiter in 5th gear. Gearing was way too short for even the conservative power it's making now. Had to be ready for some oversteer when rolling onto the throttle in 2nd gear mid-corner .

Since I swapped in a 2.93 rear end things are less spicy, but it will still break the tires free in 1st when boost hits. I foresee traction being an ongoing issue as the car is turned up, which is always fun!

Screenshot of the TunerStudio Dashboard from my youtube video.

[ome30]

That colour looks more amazing every time I see it! The perfect closer for this body would be euro bumpers because they'd look amazing IMO, but impossible to come by and insanely expensive. Whenever you do weld up that passenger wheel well hole, I'd love to get some tips because I've got a nice little hole in my driver side wheel well. Excited to see all the progress!

[Panici]

Winter Plan 2022-2023


Typically in the late fall/early winter I don't get much wrenching done.
I did discover what appears to be a spot of burned-through clearcoat from the bodyshop, which I'm obviously not pleased about.

Removed the driver's side hofmeister kink trim as the lower section wasn't sitting tight to the body. Found painter's tape where the clip should have been. Ordered replacement mounting hardware.

Installed a set of exterior door handles (thanks Brutus for the parts!).


I've been collecting a small mass of parts, here are my plans for the next four months.

• Drop the rear subframe & differential.
  • Replace the (leaking) diff input shaft seal.
  • Weld-in reinforcements for Rear Sway Bar, Differential Mount Point, Rear Shocks, Trailing Arm (Wing & Tube)
  • Garagistic Secondary Diff Mount
  • RaceGerman HD Differential Stud Kit
  • Upgrade bushings from OEM rubber (installed in 2016) to Revshift 80A Polyurethane.
    • Differential
    • Subframe
    • Trailing Arms
• Weld up hole in top of passenger side rear wheel well.
• Uprated Swaybars Front & Rear 22mm/19mm by ST Suspensions
• Replace sunroof motor.
• Replace driver's side hofmeister kink trim clips.
• Re-work exhaust to add a cat, additional hanger, and floor clearance.
• Change wastegate boost reference from compressor housing to right before throttle body.
• Lengthen shifter DSSR to move knob closer to dash.
• Install colourmatched Kamei rear valance
• Reinstall E28 535is Pfeba Heckspoiler
• Reinstall colourmatched diving board trim
• Reinstall 325is front airdam
• Install uprated Morimoto 50w HID kit.
• Install replacement throttle cable.
• Install ChaseBays windshield washer fluid res/pump.

[Panici]

been meaning to stop in and comment on this excellent thread and the quality of your work for a while now. Well done Sir.

Thanks Luke! 🙂
Stay tuned, I'm not done yet!

----

Finally picked up the car from the bodyshop on Tuesday. They cut & buffed the clearcoat and got most of the runs out.
It's still not perfect, but it's a big improvement. Wanted to get the car back home as we are getting close to freezing overnight, and the road salt isn't far away.

New OEM roundels felt nice to finally install. Original trunk roundel is still in great shape, with only a slight yellowing of the white portions (pictured), so I put it on the E28!

Spent some time on the weekend optimizing the garage space. Motorcycle lift is up against the wall, tool cabinets are all near the fridge, spare miata engine is tucked nicely below the spare M52B28 and the engine hoist is disassembled and stored in the basement.
Hoping the extra space motivates me to keep working on the car during the cold winter months.

In addition to the rear subframe upgrade bits I have planned, I am trying to source some used parts for the car. A working sunroof motor/assembly, interior front tweeter pods with original tweeters, outside door Handles w/screws, and a set of cracked early-model taillights (to make into startec reps).

[LukeJ]

I can't get over how clean everything is. Job well done. Love the constant search for perfection, but progress over perfection this speaks too.

I'll second this.

Yep, been meaning to stop in and comment on this excellent thread and the quality of your work for a while now. Well done Sir.

[2mAn]

all good options there. excited to see it progress

[Panici]

I can't get over how clean everything is. Job well done. Love the constant search for perfection, but progress over perfection this speaks too.

Thank you, and well said. My goal has been to get the car running and driving every summer. I've done that every year except for 2021 (when it was at the bodyshop).

As things get closer to "finished" I hope to have less wrenching and more driving time with the E30.
Although I have the distinct feeling that this is one of those projects that's never done!

What are your plans for the bumpers? Sticking with the diving boards? I like the solution for the rear that another member has... drawing a blank on his name right now

I love the diving boards, they're one of the first things that attracted me to the E30 chassis. (And now to the E28 which looks even more homely/frumpy)

I have a set of refinished and colourmatched surrounds waiting to go on. (still have the black surrounds as well)
Also have the '87 iS front air dam and a 3-piece Kamei rear valance/apron (see post 329) that I bought from Albie325 like three years ago.



I've seen the "high dive" solution that you're talking about. When he has a front setup figured out I'm going to buy a set just to keep in storage. Might want to change up the look some years down the road.

I'd also like to find a set of 1988 bumper shocks to try out (which are the shortest OEM option).

[2mAn]

What are your plans for the bumpers? Sticking with the diving boards? I like the solution for the rear that another member has... drawing a blank on his name right now

[DEV0 E30]

I can't get over how clean everything is. Job well done. Love the constant search for perfection, but progress over perfection this speaks too.

[Panici]

Muffler Swap, 2.93 LSD, 4PSI, Trunk Mat

I'm not one to leave things alone and just drive the car, so the march towards perfection continues!




Swapped out the Magnaflow straight-through muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo unit. Helped to quiet things down nicely (until the wastegates crack open ). Gave it a coat of high-temp exhaust paint.

Changed my 3.73 LSD for the 2.93 LSD. I rebuilt everything except for the input shaft seal, which now leaks (and will be a winter project). Fresh POR15 makes it look the part.
It was difficult getting those differential bolts lined up with the subframe in the car. Will swap to a stud kit over the winter.

Added in an "Ultimat" trunk carpet from Lloyd Mats to match the floormats.

Have almost 1000km on the new clutch setup. It's breaking in nicely, and is becoming livable.

I have sorted out a conservative tune @ 4psi now.
I am seeing about 0.5psi of restriction up top with boost dropping from 4psi to ~3.5psi. Going to move my wastegate reference line to right before the intake manifold which should remedy the issue.
These dual gates must have great flow as this is the opposite problem of boost creep.

Car is making decent power now as I'm getting some serious wheel hop in 1st and 2nd gear. I made a separate thread here to discuss the issue.

It shakes the drivetrain enough to pop my passenger side mirror glass out of place (which I was able to recover unscathed), and knock the turbo feed line into the underside of the hood, leaving a tiny dent. I have since bent the feed line down for clearance.

Went to a mostly-E30 car show at Deltaparkauto yesterday, but I forgot to take pictures. I left the car there afterwards for paint correction. Excited to see the clearcoat runs fixed, and then I'll finally be able to install the trim & badging.