ST1G's s52 OBDII Calypsorot

[ST1G]

3 - is for the SAP solenoid, which mounts on a bracket held down by the fuel rail bolt and controls vacuum to the SAP valve.

4 - you need to loosen the header to get that sensor in there. it's tight but fits if you have the correct OBD2 O2 sensor.

Thanks! that's great info.

So, secondary air pump was flashed out of the ECU I think. Does this mean that I can just leave it disconnected?

[kronus]

3 - is for the SAP solenoid, which mounts on a bracket held down by the fuel rail bolt and controls vacuum to the SAP valve.

4 - you need to loosen the header to get that sensor in there. it's tight but fits if you have the correct OBD2 O2 sensor.

[ST1G]

I'll figure out the bolts out later. I don't think I'll have this done before I go to Texas next week. I'm trying to get it to breathe before I leave.


So, lots of stuff happening.



Got the engine and transmission in. Drive line bolted up. Went very smothly, except for not knowing I needed and e30 CSB not a e36 one, so I have to snag one. Luckly a mate had one on hand.







Cut out the m50 manifold fins to clear the brake booster. I think it's a e32 booster?



The harness is a little tricky and over whelming at first, but I did a good job of labeling everything for the most part, and the Electrical diagrams in the e36 Bentley pretty much get you the rest of the way there.



Since I had the secondary emissions stuff removed, and I am going to obdI manifold, I figured that I didn't need the oil separator that connects under the OBDII manifold. Since I'm removing it I just connected the ICV to the m50 manifold and intake boot with the s50 vacuum lines. There isn't any other empty ports on the m50 manifold so I assume that means I'm good as far as vacuum goes (I've got the booster vacuum connection and the fuel rail connection and that's it)?




Now, I have a few specific problems. Northern has been helping me in another thread, but here are the main problems.

1. I don't know how to connect the power of the m3 harness into the power of the car. Not sure what I need and what I don't. I might pull the whole harness and pull everything out I don't need. I'm just not 100% on what I don't need and do need at this point.

Photos of the main power connections:

Driver side


Passenger side



2. Seems like with the e32 booster that the e34 throttle cable isn't a ideal set up. The 90* bend makes it kinda twist weird. Not sure if I don't have it set up right, or if I need to use a different cable with that booster. Seems to work okay, I had a mate press the accelerator pedal and it opens the butterfly all the way, and is closed without pedal pressure.





3. I can probably figure this out, but I'm not sure I have a connector for this. I assume it should be down under the manifold from what I wrote on it. But I don't seem to have any unconnected connectors under the manifold.





4. My headers have two ports for o2 sensors, which is great except one is is not going to work, the o2 sensor is too long and it can't fit in there. Since I assume I really do want a reading from both banks of cylinders I should remove that one and move the o2 bung to a spot where an 02 sensor can actually fit?


Any useful links or personal experience would be great. I've spent hours reading, and searching but being the first time I've done anything this complicated with a car I feel vastly lacking in know how.

[Fsnow]

This or see if you can get a screw extractor kit. The snap on one works wonders.

This. With this style of allen head you can usually use a center punch to rotate it. I've had good luck that way because the head is so big. Hit it between the socket part and the o.d.. I would try this first.
Nice build btw

[staysideways]

Woahhh what was up with the drivers seat....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ThatOneEuroE30]

use the drill side (left) to drill a hole where it's stripped, then use the reverse threaded side to bite into the head and remove it.

This or see if you can get a screw extractor kit. The snap on one works wonders.

[Kershaw]

use the drill side (left) to drill a hole where it's stripped, then use the reverse threaded side to bite into the head and remove it.

[ST1G]

Okay, March is over, video please

I meant April though :rippedoff:

[wark]

Getting there. I put my two weeks in at work today. Should have a solid three weeks here to get it done. I just got a new clutch slave in. It needed to go in before I move forward with other things. My goal is burn outs before the end of the month.

Okay, March is over, video please

[2002jm]

When you get her done, I want to see it!!:)
looking good,
jm

[ST1G]

Getting there. I put my two weeks in at work today. Should have a solid three weeks here to get it done. I just got a new clutch slave in. It needed to go in before I move forward with other things. My goal is burn outs before the end of the month.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

So..... this thing done yet?

[2002jm]

getting brake bolt off

Last time that happened to me, I used tons of pb blaster then drilled the center and hammered in an oversize allen wrench in and backed it out. Once they strip, they are a pain!
thanks for your help this morning and the car is looking great!
jm

[ST1G]

This shit really, really pisses me off. The 42 draft desgin hardware stripped out when I tried to remove it. I remember torquing it to spec when I put it in and was thinking I was starting to bend the head a little. I was using a brand new caftsman Allen too. Well when trying to remove them I squared one, and the other two left are trying to follow suit. Not sure how to handle it.




Started painting my Zender front end.






RX-7 Brake calipers getting cleaned up





And subframe out and painted. Brake fluid wore a lot of the paint off. Engine is pretty much ready to go in.



Installed the guibo on the drive shaft, and put together shift linkage.

[ST1G]

Looking good!! I like the color contrast.

Thanks! I like it too. I would have gone with bronzit if I could

I think I will have the engine in the bay this weekend. I got new control arms and all that jazz. Time to get the rack all plumbed up, then get the brake booster installed then drop the rack and get the engine in.