The wheels look great on it. I am glad you didn't go with bronze.
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Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey
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How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
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Originally posted by rzerob View PostThe wheels look great on it. I am glad you didn't go with bronze.
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Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View Post
No kidding! Thanks for the feedback. I'll try this first.The 2.5* was kinda a carryover from when I was daily driving it. Don't really need to be so conservative now that it gets driven twice a month for pleasure. And rarely on the highway.
Out of curiosity, what overall alignment specs are you running?
Damn I am dying to go to an event asap.
Front:
Max caster (probably around +9*) w/ offset bushings and camber/caster plates maxed out
Max camber (put on a bubble gauge about 3.7*)
0 toe but only because we were lazy, I will be running 1/16" toe out when we align it again
Rear:
2.2* camber (not enough, I am adding more by removing my subframe riser bushings, hoping for closer to 3*)
1/16" toe in (it will end up being about 1/8" toe in when I remove the subframe risers)
Macpherson struts (E30 front) roll over so much under heavy cornering, you really need a ton of camber. It gets even worse when the car is lowered aggressively without roll center correction. It's easy to get in the wrong range of camber sweep/gain, meaning you gain positive camber while cornering, rather than more negative camber.
I think with how much camber I am running now that I will be able to clear my 225/40-17 Hoosier R7's without even rolling my front fenders. 225 Hoosiers have a 246mm section width! I'll be running a 17x8.5" wheel which gives me an advantage of your setup, since large wheels clear the struts easier (because the strut tube angles away from the hub, so the further you are from the hub, the further away the tube is).
Check out this photo from my last track weekend. The front has an excellent contact patch, the rear is rolled over too much (need more rear camber). https://www.motorimages.com/2020-EVE...-BMW/i-QdD9RKB
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Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
Right now I have
Front:
Max caster (probably around +9*) w/ offset bushings and camber/caster plates maxed out
Max camber (put on a bubble gauge about 3.7*)
0 toe but only because we were lazy, I will be running 1/16" toe out when we align it again
Rear:
2.2* camber (not enough, I am adding more by removing my subframe riser bushings, hoping for closer to 3*)
1/16" toe in (it will end up being about 1/8" toe in when I remove the subframe risers)
Macpherson struts (E30 front) roll over so much under heavy cornering, you really need a ton of camber. It gets even worse when the car is lowered aggressively without roll center correction. It's easy to get in the wrong range of camber sweep/gain, meaning you gain positive camber while cornering, rather than more negative camber.
I think with how much camber I am running now that I will be able to clear my 225/40-17 Hoosier R7's without even rolling my front fenders. 225 Hoosiers have a 246mm section width! I'll be running a 17x8.5" wheel which gives me an advantage of your setup, since large wheels clear the struts easier (because the strut tube angles away from the hub, so the further you are from the hub, the further away the tube is).
Check out this photo from my last track weekend. The front has an excellent contact patch, the rear is rolled over too much (need more rear camber). https://www.motorimages.com/2020-EVE...-BMW/i-QdD9RKBthat'll probably be one of the first projects in the new garage. I'll play with caster again too - currently it's set close to stock but I have adjustability at both the camber plate and the control arm bushing.
I am painfully aware of the wheel-to-strut clearance issue I have made worse with the 15" wheels... one of my first thoughts when checking clearance was exactly that... I could fit quite a bit more inboard with a 17" wheel. Oh well.
Nice photos! The car looks very good and really punctuates the alignment tips you shared. Next event I'll try to have someone either watching/recording/photographing so I can check a similar view. So hard to judge these things on my own. Now I am really dying to adjust alignment and get back out there!
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Condor has an alignment and corner balance setup now... we are really diving in deep and trying different things every time we're headed to the track. It's a fun rabbit hole!
The photos don't always tell you a lot, but some things are obvious (like my rear camber). Another nice tool to have at the track is a pyrometer, and to test the inside, middle, and outside of the tires. That can help you dial in camber and tire pressures.
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Originally posted by Digitalwave View PostCondor has an alignment and corner balance setup now... we are really diving in deep and trying different things every time we're headed to the track. It's a fun rabbit hole!
The photos don't always tell you a lot, but some things are obvious (like my rear camber). Another nice tool to have at the track is a pyrometer, and to test the inside, middle, and outside of the tires. That can help you dial in camber and tire pressures.
Is an infrared temp gun appropriate to take tire temps? Or do I want one with a probe to poke the tire?
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Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View Post
Yes it is a lot of fun. Last autox I was fussing mainly with tire pressures and it made a significant difference. I want to leave the car as is for a while (except possibly building up another rear subframe/TA setup since my bushings are on their way out) and just learn the car and maximize the current setup.
Is an infrared temp gun appropriate to take tire temps? Or do I want one with a probe to poke the tire?
Zach I def need to update my thread, so much has changed in the last couple of months...
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Originally posted by moatilliatta View PostWheels are gray8!
Cant wait for some action shots!
Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
I've been told probe only but haven't researched why. I think the surface of the tire cools too fast for an infrared to work properly.
Zach I def need to update my thread, so much has changed in the last couple of months...
and yes, you do need an update. we've been patiently waiting
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Long time no post.... no I haven't been stricken with covid-19, but I did move and change jobs the week all this craziness started! It's been quite a wild ride for the past 6 weeks. New house came with a new garage. It's a bit smaller than the garage I had before, but I won't be sharing the space with anyone else which is nice for a change. It's a fairly narrow 2 car garage, and driveway, so rather than try to fit two cars in there with no space to spare, I committed to one car at a time, but excellent storage and working space. I let my OCD organization run rampant and bought a bunch of racks and various bins to help box everything up into sensible categories and make the best use of my space. Also got 8 LED panels to put on the ceiling, a nice 7 channel stereo (2 channels run outside the garage), framed and hung some garage art I've been saving, and my favorite part - a beer fridge. Unfortunately the washer and dryer can't be moved out of the garage so I worked around them.
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I am disappointed. All this talk of this new place and the things you are doing to it but no pictures. For shame Sh3rpak!ng, for shame.How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
Could be better, could be worse.
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Originally posted by rzerob View PostI am disappointed. All this talk of this new place and the things you are doing to it but no pictures. For shame Sh3rpak!ng, for shame.
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congrats on the new pad! love how organized the garage is, watch out for that wire wheel though! i just started to clean up my garage, but everything i want to do to organize it costs money i shouldn't be spending right now!!89 325i 4dr s52
02 BMW 525iT m54b30/manual swapped (daily) *sold in 2020 repurchased in 2025*
21' Toyota Tacoma TRD OR 4x4 6 speed Manual
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